fadedorca66 said:Could be, but honestly, who knows? Hard drives can act pretty weird too—sometimes they just decide to quit on you, or they won't even boot up unless they've warmed up a bit. I guess you should probably run some more tests while it's still in your PC; maybe grab something like CrystalDiskInfo to check the SMART status and see if there are any actual errors lurking on the drive...
I was leaning towards the motherboard being the culprit because every single time I plug that hard drive in, the system fails to boot on the first try, and it doesn't even register that I've plugged in the power adapter right away. But when I leave the drive out, everything runs perfectly fine.
I was doing some online classes on my Dell laptop today. Once I finished, I shut the thing down and left it plugged into the charger, but now, when I try to boot it up, it takes about five attempts before it finally kicks in—only to hit me with a "NO BOOTABLE DEVICE" error on the screen.
My gut feeling tells me it’s the hard drive. I actually pulled it out to test it, and it seemed to trigger right on that first press of the power button. But once I put it back in, I had to try multiple times just to get the same error message again.
To be sure, I popped that same hard drive into my desktop PC, and it works perfectly fine there.
Does this mean I'm looking at a motherboard failure?
Hey everyone. So, I’ve been digging through the county property records for some land I own, and I’ve run into a bit of a headache with one specific parcel—it’s just a stretch of woods, and I can't figure out its exact location.
Look, the official land registry provides coordinates, but there's this ISO 9660 system they use that just won't work with any navigation app I try. I even went as far as hunting down a coordinate converter that listed four different versions of ISO 9660, but nothing from the registry matches any of them.
Does anyone here actually understand this damn ISO 9660 coordinate system, and does anyone know how to convert it into MIT so it actually works on my GPS?
Alexander Moore67 said:I don't really get why they'd pair a K-series CPU with this ASUS P8H61-M LX2 motherboard when you can't even overclock it...
Well, the truth is I basically got it for next to nothing.
They aren't really playing any heavy-duty titles or anything crazy; lately, it's just been my kid running Epic Games and Mojang, and everything runs perfectly fine for now.
Look, I’m telling you, I am not swapping out my CPU. Like I said before, there’s just no point in trying to upgrade an old system and throwing money down the drain; once I finally reach the end of this build's life, I'll just buy a completely new setup and call it a day.
My motherboard is an ASUS P8H61-M LX2.
I'm heading out to pick up a new power supply and most likely a GTX 1060, since I honestly just feel more comfortable sticking with the Intel and Nvidia combo.👍
Does it actually make sense to pair an i7-3770 with that GTX 1060, and maybe even toss in another 8GB of RAM so I'd be sitting at 16GB total??????????
So, should I just hold onto that price gap between the Core i7-2600 and the 3770, along with that extra 8GB of RAM, and put it toward a better power supply instead?
swiftfalcon89 said:It’s not actually about the wattage; it’s about the quality of the unit itself. Honestly, the power supply you’re running right now is bottom-of-the-barrel stuff—it’s basically a total gamble that could end up frying your entire build.
In that case, I’d really appreciate it if someone could point me toward a reliable power supply so I can just go ahead and pull the trigger on a purchase.
Even with this RAM upgrade, my frame rates are already feeling way smoother than before.
I honestly had no clue that the power supply could actually impact performance levels. Is a 700W unit going to cut it, or are there other specific specs I should be looking at when picking out a PSU?
So, I just threw in another 8GB of RAM, which brings my total up to 10GB now. The thing that’s really weighing on my mind, though, is whether I actually need to swap out my motherboard if I decide to upgrade the processor.
My power supply is an MSindustrial MS 400 ATX P4, so I'm assuming that'll definitely need an upgrade if I move up to a better graphics card.
Given everything, would you guys still be recommending the GTX 1060 over the RX 570?
Look, that PC belongs to a kid, which explains why he's playing those kinds of games in the first place; the real headache started because he’s trying to run PUBG and is pushing himself to play ARK, but neither of those titles are going to run smoothly on his current setup.
Anyway, my first move is to toss in another 8GB stick of RAM, and if that doesn't do the trick, I'm just going to grab a GTX 1060—I noticed they have them available starting from $300 onwards.
Regarding the CPU upgrade, I think I’m actually going to pass on that for now because if I’m going to pull the trigger on a swap, I really want to go all out and invest in something high-end, and honestly, I just don't have the budget for that right this second.
As far as my gaming rotation goes, I'm mostly playing Fortnite, Minecraft, GTA online, Counter-Strike, Plants vs Zombies, and a bit of PUBG for obvious reasons. So, looking at those specific titles, an i7 2600 should be more than enough to get the job done.
I was thinking about throwing in an 8GB DDR3 1333 stick, and since I'm stuck with only two slots on this board, that would bring my total memory up to 10GB.
So, now for the big question: which specific graphics card should I actually go with?
Alright, here’s what I’m running right now: Intel Core i5 2500k @ 3.30Ghz NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 4GB RAM
So, my big question is, what components should I look at upgrading, and honestly, is it even worth putting any money into this thing if I want to keep using it for gaming? Thanks!
Hey everyone. So, I’ve currently got a Dell Inspiron 15 running an i3 6100U with a GTX 950m and 2 GB of dedicated VRAM plus just a single 4 GB stick of DDR4 2133Mhz RAM
I'm planning on upgrading my RAM because whenever I check Task Manager, I see that it's already sitting at 39% usage even when I'm barely doing anything, so I'm thinking about tossing in another 8GB. Does anyone know if there's anything specific I need to look out for, or can I just grab any random DDR4 2133Mhz stick and call it a day?
My Microsoft router It’s showing me two different wireless networks: 1. Name: Optima-2bd... SSID Optima-2bd... 2. Name: Network profile SSID Optima-2bd...
I'm honestly stumped because this isn't how I want my setup to look at all; I have absolutely no need for two separate signals, and the weirdest part is that nobody has touched any settings, yet this second network just popped up out of nowhere.
So, from what I understand, this laptop comes equipped with some kind of ambient light sensor that automatically adjusts the screen brightness based on the room lighting. I already went into my power settings and disabled the sensor entirely, but it hasn’t fixed a thing—every single time I launch a game, the brightness just dips on its own. Basically, I need a way to completely kill this sensor once and for all.
That’s exactly why I’d go with a higher-end motherboard for an i5—I want the freedom to overclock things down the road if I ever feel the need to push my system further.
Hey everyone, I could really use some advice here.
My current motherboard is an ASUS P8H61-MLX2/SI REV 3.0, which I’ve been using with a Pentium G620, though I recently swapped that out for an Intel Core i5-2500K on the LGA 1155 socket.
So, the situation is that I'm letting my younger brother use my old setup, which means I'll be handing him this board along with the Pentium G620, but since I want to keep the i5, I need to pick up a different motherboard that actually supports those unlocked K-series processors, so I'm turning to you all for some recommendations.