Posts by Morgan Murphy5

I’ll just run a 10-minute OCCT test, and if everything holds up, I guess that’s that. Honestly, I think you guys might be overthinking this. It probably won't give you any trouble during normal use.

I took a look at your manual. I’ve got two HP Ultrasharps myself. They have the same IPS panel as yours, I guess.

They don't specify which gamma standard any of those three options use.
Basically, I just stick to the factory defaults on my monitor; keeping everything aligned with sRGB specs ensures color accuracy stays consistent with what developers intended for games and software.
From there, I might nudge the brightness up or down by maybe 10%, and that’s about it. That works fine for me. I don't mess with the color profiles since I don't own a colorimeter to actually calibrate anything properly.
By adjusting the brightness away from the factory settings, you're shifting the entire spectrum. I also make sure to turn off the light sensor and dynamic contrast.
Maybe give it a shot and see if you prefer the look.
As for that washed-out effect in dark scenes, it's pretty much unavoidable because you're dealing with backlight bleeding through the crystals. If you drop the brightness too low, you'll just end up losing all the detail in the shadows.

Turn off the DCR (dynamic contrast ratio) setting. From there, you can just tweak the brightness until it looks right to you. I guess the dark scenes might look a bit washed out, but honestly, only an OLED panel is going to fix that issue.
If you're playing at night, maybe try pointing a small 4W LED lamp at the ceiling if you play in total darkness. It might help keep those enemy flashbangs from being quite so blinding. 🙂

It’s honestly pathetic. We're still $1167 away.

From what I can see in the video, it looks like your monitor isn't picking up the signal from the GPU. The screen just blacks out every now and then.
Maybe try dropping the refresh rate or switching to a lower resolution, just as a test.

Follow-up: Try this—download the latest version of PerformanceTest 10 and run nothing but the 3D test. Use RealTemp to log the maximum GPU temperature during the process. Honestly, it might just be some weird issue with the monitor's internal electronics, who knows? You could also try plugging the PC into a TV to rule out a faulty monitor entirely.

Both DVI and DisplayPort act similarly, except DVI doesn't carry audio; both allow for two-way communication with the monitor. HDMI handles both video and audio, but lacks that return path.

You could also try running the GPU stress test in AIDA64 to see what happens.

VGA is an analog connection, so the GPU generates a numerical value that gets converted to analog before the cable, then back to digital after the cable and right before the panel hits the screen. It’s not that it won't produce a decent image, but digital values are inherently more precise when it comes to the actual pixels on the screen. With DVI, HDMI, or DisplayPort, you're getting a direct, precise numerical value for every pixel.

For 10th Gen processors, prices start at $183.

I just used 8,500 as an example. It really comes down to what you feel comfortable with. Even if it’s 9,500, that’s not a bad deal either—keeping an extra 2,000 in your pocket is actually quite significant. Plus, having a clean receipt is a nice little bonus; maybe it'll help you fetch a better resale price in two years. As for how many actual working hours it'll survive, there aren't any guarantees there. You only get the standard manufacturer's warranty based on time. Whether or not you can negotiate a lower price given that it’s already clocked 700 hours in operation is a different story entirely.
Personally, I think I'd be perfectly happy with the 8,500 option. I have my own laptop and could certainly use that 3,000 difference in my pocket.

https://www.dell.com/en-us/laptops/latitude-series/latitude-5510-laptop

It says it’s brand new, priced at $1,700. I suppose it really comes down to the specifics—condition, paperwork, warranty status... the less hassle, the better for you. And if $2833 you can snag it, that's an easy $450 back in your pocket.

To looks like a perfectly normal, stable setup to me. You’re fine to keep running it as is.

Since that CPU is a bit of a lightweight by today's standards, I wouldn't be surprised if you see it hitting 100% usage quite often.

If you really want to put it through its paces, you could try using OCCT. It’ll push the processor to 100% load indefinitely until you manually stop it, which should give you a clear look at how the temperatures hold up.

Just a quick tip: you could honestly just grab a SATA III hard drive, plug it directly into the cables inside your case, power it up, run the copy, and then shut everything down to unplug it. You’ll have your backup. No need to mess around with any screws.

Maybe that would be easier on your wallet.

feraljackal21 said:Greetings,

I was wondering if anyone could clarify something for me: is it actually possible to take a standard SIM card—the kind I use for my monthly data plan—and pop it straight into a mobile router to get things running? Or am I required to have a specific SIM card designed specifically for that type of service?

If this is doable, I would appreciate a few pointers, because right now I’m getting an error message stating that the card is invalid.

To be specific, I'm working with an AT&T mobile router from Huawei, and I'm trying to use an AT&T SIM card that has a dedicated data package attached to it.

Thanks in advance!

Honestly, almost every smartphone out there supports mobile hotspotting to other Wi-Fi devices, allowing you to connect multiple gadgets at once. That whole dedicated router thing feels pretty outdated now.

As a suggestion, maybe grab a used iPhone 6 on eBay for $83; it might be a bit beat up for that price, but as long as it works, you can just toss in a new number from $6.75 and boom—you've got yourself a mobile hotspot.
Regarding your specific issue, I'd just call your carrier's support line; give them a quick ring and they should be able to walk you through it.

Your current phone might even have this feature built-in, though I don't know which model you're using.

jadetrucker43 said:The rear one is barely turning by hand; I think something is catching inside.

Either the ball bearing is shot, or it’s just seizing up—you can actually feel it grinding when you try to spin it manually. I ended up getting a replacement. Mine was originally a 4-pin from the case, but the store only had 3-pin versions in stock. Since my motherboard has a dedicated sysfan header that supports it, I just plugged it straight in. If you find yourself in that situation, I guess just double-check the cable length before you buy.

I’m using an HP Envy 5000. On Windows 10, the printer driver seems to work fine, but the scanner is a different story. I reached out to Canon, and they basically told me they're sorry, but it just doesn't support Windows 10. It worked perfectly on Windows 8.1, though.

Steven Fox37 said:Quick update:
The memory issues are still hanging around, and I even tried updating the drivers—but no luck there.
On the bright side, that whole WiFi/USB headache finally cleared up after I flashed the BIOS.

It seems like everyone is just spinning their wheels here. To figure out if those USB ports are actually dead, you should probably just go into the BIOS and swap keyboard ports to test them. Or, maybe try booting from a USB stick containing something like MiniTool Partition Wizard. The key is to make sure the USB ports work before Windows even starts loading. That’s how you rule out a hardware failure.

As for the memory leak, just open Task Manager. It should show you exactly which process is hogging all the RAM—it'll be right there at the top of the list under memory usage. Just Google the process name to see what it's actually tied to or which specific software is causing the drain. That’s usually the easiest way to track it down.

I just caught the first post. If nothing is showing up in the processes list, then we're looking at a mystery. If you're running 16GB (two 8GB sticks), maybe try running on just one stick at a time? Test them individually to see if one is faulty.