Posts by Larry Ortiz5

That’s actually what I was just about to say—you should probably head over to Disk Cleanup.

Thomas Sanchez30 said:I've got an Nvidia GeForce gt 520 MX. I just updated the driver through the Device Manager.

You might want to try installing the driver via GeForce Experience instead...

Thomas Sanchez30 said:It’s about Super Mario Galaxy. It ran perfectly fine back on Windows 8, and even after I did a clean install of Windows 10, it should be working—but it’s basically unplayable. For about 80% of the time, the FPS just tanks; for example, I'll jump and it feels like everything is in slow motion. It constantly stutters, speeds up for a second, then slows right back down... it's just constant.

I honestly don't get what's going on since everything was smooth on Windows 8. My setup is an i3 with Nvidia graphics and 6 GB of RAM. I even tried setting the application priority to "High" in Task Manager, but that didn't do a thing. 🙄

Have you installed your graphics drivers yet? What about the chipset and all those other necessary little things?

Have you tried booting into Safe Mode yet? You know, by tapping F8 while the computer is starting up?

It looks like you've got some bad sectors on that drive, which is definitely nothing to be happy about... Honestly, every hard drive eventually gives up the ghost—it’s just part of the cycle. I'd suggest keeping a close eye on things with a monitoring tool; if those numbers start climbing rapidly, you might want to start looking for a replacement sooner rather than later..

p.s. Have you thought about trying to install Windows 10? It might actually run a bit smoother for you than Windows 7 did..

Try resetting everything back to the factory defaults—see if that clears things up.

Kimberly Patel said:Hey there!
I've got a Boeing 727 phone—well, you know what I mean—and lately, I've been getting all these random ads popping up. Any idea how I can get rid of them?

Does this happen while you're browsing the web, or is it more like when you're just navigating the settings or scrolling through your photos? If you could give me a few more details about when they pop up, that would be great...

Michael Jackson10 said:Look, the guy isn't even planning on overclocking. Why would he need all that extra juice for a chip with a 65 W TDP? Even a basic cooler handles that just fine, and honestly, that's the smart way to go—unless, of course, he's trying to be the big shot in his neighborhood. It’s not hard to Google some exotic, high-end parts that cover every possible scenario, so you really can't go wrong... but it feels like your main goal here is just suggesting the most expensive fix possible. To you, "optimal" clearly doesn't mean anything. Let's get real for a second; not everyone is swimming in cash, and nobody needs massive overkill for components in a field where everything basically becomes obsolete overnight anyway...

+1. Any decent, well-known Cooler will get the job done. There's really no reason to jump all the way up to a $167😁

I'd say just take it in for service—especially if you're still under warranty... It’s worth it. P.S. Have you tried swapping out the SATA cable yet? Just purely as a troubleshooting step to rule it out.

You might want to check the health of your hard drive—since you just installed a fresh version of Windows and it's already starting to freeze up, there's a chance the drive itself is failing. I'd suggest downloading CrystalDiskInfo just to see what the status looks like.

If you can find a way to test it out before you pull the trigger, I’d definitely suggest doing that—honestly, nobody can give you a 100% guarantee that it'll play nice with the RAM you've already got sitting in your machine.

Once you get that sorted out—and once you've got Windows 10 up and running—just type "disk cleanup" into the search bar. From there, you can just check all the boxes to clear out all that junk you've accumulated...

Keith Sanchez6 said:But honestly, I felt like 8.1 was way more stable than 7—I barely had to touch it. And when it comes to Windows 10, how much worse can it really get? Besides, 10 is all about that deep cloud integration, though you probably don't need all that. So yeah, if 7 is working for you, just stick with it. 😁

I wouldn't quite go as far as saying Windows 8.1 was more stable than 7. If anything, I’d venture to say Windows 7 is the most stable OS Microsoft ever released—after all, it still holds over 50% of the market share on computers... especially in corporate offices.

Jerry Fowler79 said:I'm thinking about trying to squeeze that Kingston SSD 120 GB V300 into the total price—what do you guys think?
Is he doing alright?

He isn't quite as legendary as everyone makes him out to be—if you have the option, I'd honestly suggest heading over to... $13 Is this SSD a bit on the pricey side?

I couldn't find any specific details or context attached to that link—it looks like just a product page from an American retailer. If you were trying to show me a specific part or ask for my thoughts on some hardware, could you drop a quick note about what it is? I'd love to weigh in once I know what we're looking at.

Unfortunately, nobody can give you a 100% guarantee on this—it’s honestly a bit of a lottery. I’ve actually had to return RAM sticks to Best Buy a couple of times before because, even though the speeds and latencies matched perfectly, they just wouldn't play nice together. Your best bet is to buy them as a matched kit if you can. If that's not an option, maybe try to test the new stick with your current setup before you fully commit to the purchase?

p.s. Wait, did I just read correctly that you don't actually have any RAM yet? So the headache only starts once you actually buy it, right? That changes things a bit... Based on your motherboard's specs, it supports DDR3 1066/1333/1600*/1800*/2000*/2133*

So, as long as you grab some DDR3 memory, you should be good to go..

Here, check this one out..

It’s basically the exact same thing, just different packaging. On paper, they’re identical—but if one happens to have a longer warranty, I’d say go with that one... though from what I can see, they both list 24 months 🤷 The more expensive Microsoft drive is available for next-day delivery, while the cheaper Western Digital one looks like it’ll take a few days to arrive. It says you have to contact the seller first, which usually means they don't actually have it sitting in stock right now.

Are you planning to pay cash upfront or maybe go with a financing plan? Also, do you need the extra gear—like a monitor, mouse, and keyboard—or are you just looking to put together a standalone $1167 tower?

I'm still thinking about what we discussed earlier regarding those policy shifts—it really makes you wonder if anyone in Washington actually sees where this is headed, doesn't it? It feels like we're constantly reacting to the latest headline instead of building something that lasts. I’d love to hear more thoughts on this from the rest of you—what’s your take on the long-term impact? kaže:
I just cleaned the whole thing out, and I even swapped the thermal paste about two weeks ago. I honestly can't pin down exactly where that noise is coming from—maybe it isn't the power supply? I'm not 100% sure yet.

I think I’m going to take him down to the shop downtown tomorrow to have them check things out and see what's actually going on.

Does anyone have a better service they’d recommend?

Thanks for getting back to me.

Everything feels pretty much the same these days—it’s just not what it used to be. Nowadays, everyone seems to be a tech expert, and you just go wherever is most convenient... at least, that's how I see it.

I honestly think you should just give the whole rig a deep clean—get all that dust out and swap out the thermal paste on the CPU... then we can see if the issue persists. Once you've done that, just leave the side panel off and when you hear that noise again, lean in close to pinpoint exactly which component is acting up.

Exactly—if you’ve got the Windows ISO ready to go, just burn it using Rufus. Just make sure you hit those specific settings in Rufus: create a bootable disk using ISO image