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Posts by Jeremy Jackson2

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Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
Timothy Kim60;73878513 said:I’m actually kind of worried that a 1440p resolution might make things look way too tiny on a 24" screen...

If you want that kind of space, maybe an ultrawide 21:9 setup or even a super-ultrawide 32:9 would be better? Like, just having multiple monitors side-by-side so you don't have all those messy cables or that annoying bezel gap between screens...
/QUOTE]

Thanks so much for getting back to me!
See, my big issue with just one single monitor is that whenever I hit full screen, the app or document just takes over everything. It won't let me snap it so it only fills up, say, a third of the screen automatically. With a three-monitor setup, it’s honestly perfect—I just click the screen and hit Ctrl+F and I'm good to go. But with just one monitor, I can't really use Presenter View properly either, since it needs one screen for the actual presentation and another for my speaker notes. It's a bit of a headache, I guess!

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/240379

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/monitor-with-pivot/213824

https://www.newegg.com/products/detail/m_medium=click

https://www.amazon.com/lcd-monitors/phi...itor-278e8qjab
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
Hey everyone! I could really use some advice. So, I’m usually juggling a bunch of different programs and documents all at once, and I’ve realized I much prefer having three smaller monitors rather than one or two big ones—mostly because when I go full screen on a massive display, it just takes over everything. Right now, I’m working with a bit of a Frankenstein setup: an old 17" Dell, a 20" Samsung TV, and another little 17" LG. I think I’ll stick with the Dell since the stand is actually great—you can adjust the height and rotate it 90° almost with just one finger, which is super smooth. I’m looking to pick up two new monitors, and since they’ll be sitting side-by-side, I think I’d actually prefer them to be taller rather than wider. I don't know, maybe it sounds a little crazy, but what if I set both of them up vertically? I have plenty of desk space, so I guess it's possible!
What matters most to me is eye comfort and good picture quality. My workspace is pretty dim, so glossy screens wouldn't be a total disaster, though I definitely prefer matte. I mostly use Microsoft Office and Adobe apps. As for gaming... well, maybe Solitaire once a year? 😁
Also, I need a recommendation for a microphone that gives studio-quality sound and comes with a flexible boom arm. I was checking out https://www.amazon.com/microphone-studio-setup-black-100509036, but I’m not sure if the value is actually there or if I can find something better for my money.
Regarding audio, I don't have any dedicated speakers right now; I just use the sound from my Samsung TV, but sometimes it gets way too quiet, so I definitely need some better speakers—and they absolutely have to have decent bass.
Oh, and does anyone know which UPS would be best with standard US outlets to power three monitors and a PC? I just need enough juice to keep things running for maybe 5 to 8 minutes if the power cuts out.
If I totally missed the mark and this thread is strictly for monitors, and my question is more of a mix, please feel free to move me to the right section. Thanks a ton!
Gold: Past, Present, and Future in Other Investment Types ·
Henry Robinson3 said:Just a heads-up: if that money is officially in the child's name (which it has to be if it's a dedicated savings account), making any investment from that account larger than $3.25 a month is going to cause you a massive headache later on..

I've definitely seen that happen, unfortunately, but there's actually another issue here. Honestly, when money is in someone else's name—whether it's John Doe or my own flesh and blood—I just don't view it as "my" money, even though I was the one who deposited it. Once that cash hits a child's account, I basically stop counting it as part of my budget and try not to think about it too much. It’s not money meant for buying a nursery set, a new kitchen, kids' clothes, school supplies, or medical bills... no, that money is a gift specifically for the child. It belongs to them. Whether they choose to invest it wisely once they turn 18 or just blow it all on something silly? I guess I don't really care, because, well, it isn't mine anymore! My only real concern is making sure the value doesn't just evaporate, which feels like what's happening right now. So, my plan is to take my own separate money and buy gold equal to the value of what's in her account. Then I'll keep pulling from my own funds to buy more gold, because I want to keep saving for her, maybe so she can start a small business after high school or help pay for college.

So, yeah, this whole "buying gold" thing is kind of a relative concept... I really just need to find a way to ensure that the savings I'm building up for her over the years won't lose its value and just wither away.
Gold: Past, Present, and Future in Other Investment Types ·
So, where would actually be the best place to pick up some gold? Like, which state should I look at? And if I do buy some, how does crossing state lines work—is it just a matter of carrying the receipt and being totally fine? Oh, and what if someone else is buying it on my behalf? How does the ownership transfer actually happen... I mean, does the receipt or the bill of sale show the actual buyer's name?
When you guys mention jewelry stores, is it really just any shop, or are there certain ones that are way more reliable and safer than others? Maybe some are better for this kind of thing?
And thanks, seriously, to everyone out there! Whether you're trying to steer me wrong or genuinely helping me out, I guess I don't mind... because honestly, any info is better than that pathetic 0% interest rate my bank is offering on my kid's savings account right now.
Gold: Past, Present, and Future in Other Investment Types ·
I could really use some advice here. So, JP Morgan Chase basically killed the interest rate on our kid's savings account, and now we’re just sitting here with this lump sum for our little one and nowhere to go with it. The plan is to have them use it after they turn 18—maybe to start a small business or head off to college—so we definitely want to keep saving and setting money aside. But I'm honestly stuck on what to do with the $33333 we've already tucked away. Right now, it's just sitting in a bank account earning absolutely zero percent. I was looking into buying a half-kilo gold bar? But then I started wondering... how can you even be sure they’re giving you real gold? Maybe it’s better to get several smaller pieces instead, so you could actually test each one on the spot if you had to... I don't know. Housing savings plans and life insurance feel so abstract to me, and I'm really not looking to take out a loan, unless maybe for something short-term like 3 to 5 years.

I've been looking directly at these links here and I noticed some differences right off the bat,
On one site, for a half-kilo bar, it's untaxed $17,500.00 * $17,250.00
But over at Gold Standard, a half-kilo is $17,141.26 vs $17,723.43
Based on this, it seems like a better deal to go through Gold Standard, assuming the quality of the bar is the same—it says 999 purity, right?
So, I was wondering where on earth I can pick up some of those new plastic food trays, and maybe $3.00 if I could just get them by the piece? I’ve been trying to find a way to buy directly from a manufacturer, but I just can't seem to track anyone down here in the States. I’m probably looking at somewhere around 30 to 60 pieces, I guess, though it really depends on things like the price point, shipping costs, what colors they have, and how good the quality actually is. Maybe someone knows a lead?
Setting up a 5.1 surround system with a PC and amp: any tips? in Computer Peripherals ·
Hey everyone, I hope I’m posting this in the right spot—if there’s already a thread about this kind of thing, please just let me know! So, I have this home theater setup sitting around at my place, but it's basically just gathering dust because my old DVD player finally kicked the bucket. All I've got left is the five speakers and the subwoofer, along with all the wires that were supposed to plug into the player. Since the speakers themselves actually sound great and still work perfectly fine, I was wondering... maybe... if there's any way, option number one, to just buy a little something to hook them up to my PC? Or maybe some device where I could just stream my MP3s whenever I feel like it? I'd really love to find a way to put them to use again. Thanks so much!

Is this the kind of thing I'd be looking for? http://www.parts-express.com/lepai-l...upply--310-300
How do I delete my own threads or posts? in Forum Help! ·
Hey everyone! Does anyone know the best way to actually get a hold of the moderators over on the Parenting sub-Forum? I’ve tried sending private messages to everyone listed on the staff roster, but... I guess I haven't heard back from anyone yet. Maybe I'm doing something wrong? If anyone could point me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks so much!
Best external hard drives to buy right now? in Computer Peripherals ·
The desktop version actually needs its own power outlet since it comes with a plug, whereas the other one just draws power straight from the USB port. I guess it’s just a bit tricky because I don't always have an open outlet available in every single classroom.
Best external hard drives to buy right now? in Computer Peripherals ·
Benjamin King2 said:So, I was looking at those Seagate Expansion drives, right? And—wait, this is kind of wild—it looks like the 1 TB version is actually like, half the price of the 2 TB one! That seems totally crazy, doesn't it? Like, why even bother with the smaller one if the jump isn't worth it, though I guess if you're on a super tight budget, maybe it makes sense? Anyway, does anyone know if they have a 3 TB Seagate available for around... well, I wasn't going to finish that thought, but you get what I mean! $333:

Yeah, but see, this is the desktop version. My external drive is basically going on a little trip every 45 minutes or so, moving from one spot to another... like, eight times a day, every single day, except for holidays. And all the data on there? It’s constantly changing—new stuff being added, old files getting updated, things being deleted... it's just a total whirlwind of data every single day!

I mean, honestly, I don't really need some external drive just to stash about 100 movies behind my computer and totally forget it exists. Both Western Digital and Toshiba have those cheaper desktop versions available, too. But, I guess my thinking is that "desktop" implies they aren't exactly built for being tossed around, you know? Like, they probably wouldn't handle being moved much compared to the non-desktop versions. And since I definitely need a non-desktop version that can actually handle being carried around, I should probably stick to those!

So, anyway, I finally made up my mind! I'm going with the Toshiba Canvio. Now I just need to find a really solid, heavy-duty protective case to keep everything safe and sound.
Best external hard drives to buy right now? in Computer Peripherals ·
Hey, I hope there's someone online because I really need some help or advice ASAP! I'm looking to grab a new external drive and I'm stuck between the WD Passport 2TB, the General Electric Str.e Canvio 2TB, or maybe the Seagate expansion 1TB—though honestly, that 1TB one is half the price of the 2TB options. Right now, I'm using a 500GB drive and it is seriously almost full. I'd mostly be using it at school where every classroom has an open computer, and since every professor carries their own stuff on a USB stick, I want to use this for presentations, study guides, and video clips. The thing is, the files would be constantly changing and getting updated... like, I wouldn't just be watching movies on it, I'd be constantly editing and tweaking all these files on the drive itself. So, which of these do you think would be the best fit for that kind of constant use?
Scuba Diving in Other Sports ·
Hi everyone!

So, I’ve been scrolling through all the different threads under the scuba diving section to see if anything fits what I'm looking for, and this was really the only recent one I could find. Here’s my situation: I’m planning to take my Divemaster exam this year. I actually checked off all the requirements last season, but we were right at the finish line when we decided it would be better to just push it off to the new season. I’ve got about 115 dives under my belt—mostly in the ocean... 🙂—and I've finished my OWD, AOWD, Rescue, Oxygen provider, Dry suit, night diving, and navigation. Since I can only get out to dive on weekends, I’m hoping to hit maybe 40 dives a year, which would be awesome if it works out. Does anyone have any study materials they'd recommend? I'd love something digital if possible, like presentations, PDFs, or little study guides, just so I can start digging in. I’ve still got a month left, and while that sounds like plenty of time, my job requires me to be totally "on" and mentally sharp 24/7, so I can really only absorb a tiny bit of info—maybe two pages a day—during my downtime... I usually dive exclusively with one local club, Vertigo, mostly because their boat actually has a decent restroom. From what I've seen, on most other boats, you can't even move your arms without accidentally elbowing someone in the ribs!

Anyway, that's me! Thanks so much in advance for any help!
Best ways to save money right now? in Banking, Insurance & Loans ·
crimsonseal13 said:I honestly can't tell what you're trying to prove with all these posts. You throw out a mountain of calculations—some of which are flat-out wrong (sh)—but to what end? What's the goal here? You complain about high repayment amounts if you take a loan, yet a few posts ago, you were comparing kids' savings accounts to housing savings accounts, claiming one yields $100 more per year (which is incorrect, by the way).?! It seems like you want to maximize your returns while minimizing your costs. But then, when it comes to a loan, suddenly it's too expensive. That feels pretty hypocritical to say.
Just a quick side note: the effective interest rate on housing savings is between 5.7% and 6.2%, which is actually better than the 4.5% on kids' accounts. However, I'm not trying to compare two completely different products; I'm just trying to meet you where you are with the math. Every financial product serves a specific purpose and target audience; the issue is that some people struggle to pick the right one for their specific needs and current financial situation.

Don't get me wrong, I respect your stance. We all have different views on quality of life. For some, it means renting; for others, it means taking out a 30-year mortgage to buy a home.
And we all know it's probably best not to get too involved in a debate about personal taste...🙂

Hi there,

Someone brought up loans, and I was just explaining that for me, that's just not an option because, well, I'm neither at fault nor responsible for paying back someone else's debt.

What I was actually doing was looking to switch banks, so I was asking which one offers the best terms regarding fees, good online banking, and a reasonably helpful customer service department. In one of the replies I got, a gentleman mentioned investing in a money market fund. I didn't even know what that was, so I went ahead and did my own research on it.

I have $8333 ready to go in full right now, so for me—personally, just for me—savings is a better route than a home savings plan. Anyway, I basically closed the book on the whole loan topic back in 2008 (even this image is from 2008 regarding loans). It's kind of like choosing between Raffalelo and Roche; some people love coconut, others prefer chocolate. You guys are arguing that home savings are better if someone wants to qualify for a loan—and I totally agree with that. You're advocating for loans as a way for people who have no other way to solve their housing issues—who are currently without a roof over their heads—to fix that problem, and I agree with that too. You say parts of these tables are inaccurate, or at least poorly explained; well, I made these tables internally based on my own experience with my savings account. Maybe the math works out better for someone else using the home savings plan instead of the child savings plan, but again, that's very individual. I was just detailing my own situation. While looking for a good bank, I put together a list of fees. I took that list to the bank and actually ASKED the representative to confirm the numbers listed online before signing anything. I posted this table here just to save someone else some time, but I definitely wasn't suggesting anyone should head to the bank and open an account blindly just because of my chart. It's only logical to verify the numbers before signing. But like Google once said:

"Google probably operated under the assumption that no one intelligent enough to use a phone would walk into traffic, but it seems they had too high expectations."

All in all, I'm Team Raffaelo.👍😍
Best ways to save money right now? in Banking, Insurance & Loans ·
Paul Jackson61 said:I don't think anyone here has actually crunched the numbers on interest rates yet... but let's look at it this way: if you lent me 500 $0.00, what amount would you realistically expect back from me after $10? What could you actually accomplish with that capital over a 30-year span? Even a major bank like JP Morgan Chase pays you interest just to hold your savings. Just consider how much you'd need to park in an account today to have $166667 ready in 30 years 😉... and that's just for a standard mortgage. In my opinion, people don't take out these types of loans without a serious reason. Not everyone has a windfall waiting for them from a parent or a spouse to solve their housing needs.

That's exactly what I'm thinking too! I don't have any apartments or houses to inherit from anyone, but honestly, taking out a loan and putting my kid's financial future at risk just doesn't feel right to me. If I'm the one taking out the loan, then it's on me to pay it back—not my daughter, neither now nor after I'm gone.

Banks have every right to lend and to collect. If a loan is truly your only option left, then there isn't much to debate, really. I'm just speaking for myself when I say I wouldn't take out a loan because of a bad experience I had once. And regarding savings, everything basically boils down to: "I don't work for money. I work for interest."
Best ways to save money right now? in Banking, Insurance & Loans ·
James Rogers53 said:Your math is a bit off.

For the housing savings, you calculated interest as if you were adding $1667 every single year—but for the kid’s account, you assumed you started with 25 $0.00 right out of the gate. In reality, the interest on the housing fund ends up being much higher than what you wrote—probably closer to $1167.

Plus, the whole point of housing savings is to lock in a low fixed interest rate, which isn't going to happen if you're using a child's savings plan instead.

Also, saying that money is always available with the kid's account isn't exactly true—if you pull it out before the term is up, they'll strip away that interest entirely.

So, if you're actually looking to tackle a housing issue, the housing savings plan is definitely the better way to go.

Assuming I'm totally crazy :locco: and decide to take out a loan...

The Hypo account doesn't have a set term or anything, it's not locked away, it's just regular savings in my kid's name where I get 4.5% interest on whatever balance is sitting there. I can pull the cash whenever I feel like it without having to explain myself to anyone, though if I don't want to close the whole thing out, I have to leave $17 behind. And then on that $17, I'm getting 4.5% interest. So far, I've put in $2333, and there's currently $2567 in there (within one wild year). Once my $25,000 payout from Raiffeisen hits, I'll dump it all into the Hypo account, and then my interest for 2011 will be 4.5 x (32700/100) = $490. There aren't any maintenance fees, no exit fees, no weird exchange rate losses, and the money is just... free and available whenever. Plus the interest! About two years ago, I was actually thinking about a mortgage, and here's a shot of how things looked back then image

I honestly don't see how this could ever be a good deal. Am I really paying the bank $5.00 just for a ten-dollar bill? I guess I'm just not a "debt" person. I just don't see myself doing that.
Which bank should I choose for a new account? in Banking, Insurance & Loans ·
Paul Jackson61 said:Funny table 🙂 I’m going to have to call Wells Fargo and demand they start emailing me my statements instead of mailing them, otherwise they'll just keep charging me for the paper $1.75..thanks 🙂 BTW where exactly is that mentioned? I couldn't find it in the Wells Fargo fee schedule... if a bank teller tries to play dumb, I want to be able to throw it right in their face 😁

Just another little "reading between the lines" moment here.... when I was putting that chart together, I already knew 100% that whatever bank I picked, I'd be using their online banking, so having those fees waived was tied to that. Otherwise, JPMorgan Chase doesn't really offer that via email, just through Text Message (though I did mention before that it’s sooo bad—having only two options like Text Message or paper is just totally impractical and not eco-friendly at all.

So, I guess if you only have a checking account with email notifications, the info for JPMorgan Chase should basically state that they don't provide that specific service. Sorry! 👎
Which bank should I choose for a new account? in Banking, Insurance & Loans ·
Richard Wright said:I mean, props to you for putting this spreadsheet together, but honestly? It’s lacking depth. There are several fields here that absolutely need more context if we're going to make sense of them...

Sure thing! But, honestly, I only put that whole spreadsheet together for my own eyes, you know? Once it was all finished up, though, I figured maybe someone else might actually get something out of it—provided they’re the type who knows how to read between the lines. Like, for instance, I didn't explicitly mention that when a bank like JP Morgan Chase lists different amounts per transaction, it basically means they're hitting you with a separate fee for EVERY single account entry. And when it says... $0.67 So, I was thinking about how these bank setups work... you know? Like, you can actually have a bunch of different accounts all tied under one single profile, and—get this—you only end up paying one service fee, no matter how much money is sitting in there! It's kind of wild, I guess. Just one flat charge for everything. Pretty neat, right?

So, I just used a hard "C" there... because, honestly? I can never tell the difference between a "C" and a "Ć" when I'm typing. It’s such a toss-up! I guess I just winged it, maybe? Haha! 😍

I was scrolling through the website for that big insurance company over at Liberty Mutual, and honestly? It’s such a mess. Like, I really tried to find the breakdown for their basic service fees, but it is just... not clear at all. It's super vague. I guess they want to keep you guessing, maybe? It’s kind of frustrating when you're just trying to get a straight answer!
I mean, I guess it’s just me, but isn't it kind of wild that JP Morgan Chase is the only one out there actually charging a fee just to open an account? It feels a bit much, maybe? Like, I don't know, you'd think they'd want to make it easy to get in the door! Just my two cents, I suppose! 😕

So, all this "no fee" stuff... I mean, it's fine, I guess, but there's always a catch, right? It's like they tell you it's free as long as you don't rock the boat! Like, you can't lose that first debit card they handed you, you have to nail the PIN on the very first try, your security token or card reader can't suddenly act up, and heaven forbid the batteries start leaking acid inside the device... you know? It’s all conditional, I think. Everything has a little asterisk attached to it!

I mean, honestly, those prices are really just for a super smooth, hassle-free way of doing business, you know? Like, if everything goes perfectly on every single level—staying totally positive, avoiding any loans, just sticking to a basic debit card without adding on any fancy innovation packages or extra bells and whistles. I guess you don't really need to go that deep when you're picking one. If the bank is already the most affordable option right from the jump with nothing added, then maybe... I don't know, moving deeper into their systems might make it even cheaper, but it definitely shouldn't make it more expensive!

All in all, I’m just... I'm a huge believer in staying away from debt. Like, really stay away. It's just not worth it, I guess. My dad ended up taking out a loan, and then he passed away, and everything just got so complicated. And then the court—it was quite a mess, honestly—but they were actually pretty fair to me. I was a single mom living in a small rental apartment at the time, and the judge ended up awarding me the inheritance directly. It was a relief, maybe? Just one of those things that stays with you. $20000 So, there was this whole huge debt thing... and I mean, it was a mess! And then, get this—I actually tried to file a lawsuit. I was hoping, maybe, just maybe, that if I could get a DNA test done, I’d find out I was actually adopted or something, like I’d been lost in some forest somewhere and found by a nice family! I guess I was just dreaming, huh? But when I talked to my lawyer about why I was even suing, he just looked at me like I was crazy. He was basically like, "Why on earth would you sue? If you had actually inherited millions, you wouldn't be bothering with all this legal stuff!" But yeah... turns out, I did inherit. $20000 It’s such a long haul, you know? And honestly, I just want to be happy! But then, out of nowhere, they just slammed the phone down on me. Like, wow. Just total silence after that.😁 I honestly just love my lawyer! Like, seriously, they are the best.😁😁😍😁

I basically sold my soul—and all my expertise—for pennies on the dollar just to pay this thing off. Honestly, I took a much worse contract than I ever should have, just because I needed the cash. I even moved my kid to a cheaper daycare center... and man, if I'm being real, I don't think I'll ever forgive myself for that one. It's been tough. So yeah, I am never, ever touching another loan again, even if I were dead. And honestly? I don't think any sane person should.
Best ways to save money right now? in Banking, Insurance & Loans ·
Richard Wright said:Wait, you actually assumed there isn't an origination fee for residential loans? ($243)

From what I've seen, most places don't really ask for that entry fee—they usually just toss it in as a little gift (WOW🙄)

James Rogers53 said:How'd you end up with only $167 in interest?

So, the interest is roughly 3% on whatever balance is sitting in the account... so like, 3% of $1917 during that first year $58, then maybe 11,500 the second year $117, and so on. I mean, I'll admit the interest rates are higher than $167, but since the maintenance fees are also higher than $150, I didn't bother adjusting those numbers. I knew exactly where my math was off, and honestly, those two amounts basically cancel each other out anyway. Plus, I already uploaded my Excel sheet....

The big issue for me, though, was how much I lost because I was receiving $30 a month from somewhere else and putting it straight into the housing fund. But whenever I’d deposit those dollars, they’d convert them into USD, put them in the account, and then convert them back to dollars again. In other words, I was depositing $30 worth of currency at one rate, but it hit the account at another. Every single time I made a deposit, I was losing money on the exchange rate $5.00. That's like 15 times a year, 12 months a year $60 of losses annually. And now, when they finally pay me out, it's going to be at an exchange rate that's about 40 cents worse than when I started. On top of that, my fees were $70—$50 for setting up the contract and $20 for some random nonsense I still don't even understand to this day.

It was honestly a nightmare. But, if you ask me, the only savings plan better than the housing one is the kids' account. Every other option that gives you what you get with the kids' account requires you to lock your money away in a CD. That's the main downside, I guess, but then again, your money is locked up in the housing account too... it really just comes down to what you prefer. From a purely financial standpoint, getting 15% of the inflation rate is decent if you aren't starting with the full lump sum, but if you already have the whole amount ready to go, regular savings is probably better.

Personally, I think the kids' account is awesome. You get 4.5% interest, no need to lock it up in a CD, you can withdraw funds without a bunch of hoops to jump through, and you even get little gifts for the kid every time you make a deposit. Plus, the bank sends a birthday gift! I'm not sure how they handle everything else, but for anything involving children, Hypo banka Alfa is the absolute gold standard.
Best ways to save money right now? in Banking, Insurance & Loans ·
Hey everyone! So, I was messing around with some numbers and did a little bit of math—hopefully, this helps someone out if you're looking at the same thing:
image

There you go.
Which bank should I choose for a new account? in Banking, Insurance & Loans ·
Hi everyone!

So, I currently have a checking account over at PNC Bank, and honestly, it kind of ticked me off to see they charge a fee just to receive my statements via email—and it’s not even a small amount, like, almost a dollar! So, because of that, I decided to start hunting for a better option. Or maybe I'll just dive into online banking.

Anyway, if you feel like it, could you please answer these questions for me? Just in this order, I guess:

1. Which bank do you use:

2. What kind of accounts or services do you actually use:

3. Any issues you've run into? (Try to be objective, though! Like, if you had to wait twenty minutes in line, that's probably not the bank's fault, so there's no point in complaining about that—for example, in xy one day you might wait two hours, then the next day you're out in 2 minutes, it's just random chance, I suppose)
a) Issues with customer service
b) Issues with billing and account statements
c) Issues with fees (you know, those hidden, unannounced, or totally unexpected ones)
d) Issues with the hardware for online banking (malfunctioning, battery life, durability, etc.)

4. How is the online banking quality? (Is it easy to use, available, and user-friendly?)

5. ATMs
a) Do they give you a receipt showing your balance right after you withdraw cash? (For instance, PNC doesn't really do that; you have to redo the whole process just to check your new balance)
b) Has it ever happened where the machine gave you more or less than requested, and the system charged your account incorrectly?
c) How much does it cost to use an ATM from a different bank?

6. Using your debit card—is it PIN-based or signature-based?
a) Are there any restrictions (like being blocked at certain stores or anything)?

And finally, what are the current fees as of May 27th, 2010?
image

Thanks so much in advance!

P.S. I'm not interested in loans or credit cards, and I don't need overdraft protection either (I don't need extra money beyond what I've actually earned). So, overdrafts allowed is fine, I guess.$0.00.