Posts by Rachel Jones8

fadedorca66 said:If you have 64-bit Windows and you install 64-bit Windows again, you'd end up with 128-bit Windows.

Just kidding. 😁

Nothing would happen; it would just boot from whichever drive is set first in the BIOS.

If I had 64-bit... then I could just move them over, right?
I'm asking because I don't have it yet. So, install 64-bit onto an SSD... then hopefully set that as the primary drive and wipe the old stuff off the hard drive. Simple as that.

Michael Jackson10 said:Basically, when you eventually get an SSD, you'll just reinstall Windows on it, regardless of which version you're using. It’s actually a good idea to unplug your old drive during installation so you don't end up with a dual boot menu, since you won't be using those old Windows files anymore.
Once the SSD is ready, you'll need to reinstall all the programs you use—or used to use—that you want to keep. You could clone the drive to make an exact copy, but since you'd probably be switching versions anyway, that's likely out.

Yeah, probably.
Right now, these are just ideas. I'm just checking what's possible... trying to know what can and can't be done if I decide to pull the trigger.
So, I can either move my Windows over to the SSD or just do a fresh install.

After everything is done, you'd have an SSD running the OS, and you could completely wipe the old Windows files and program installs off the old drive. That way, the old hard drive becomes purely for storage.

That's the plan... maybe. I just don't know when. One of these days. 😁

Having multiple partitions is really just about staying organized. It’s super handy if you have to reinstall the system often; if you keep your data on a separate partition, you can just wipe the main one to refresh the OS and programs without touching your files.

Well, that's not a bad setup at all. 😉
Quote:And as far as viruses go, partitioning won't save you either. It really just depends on what kind of malware we're talking about, since most junk targets executable programs rather than raw data files.

Security-wise, it doesn't change much. At the end of the day, you're still dealing with one physical drive. Whether you split it into partitions or not, if the hardware dies, everything usually goes down with it—though sometimes you can get lucky and salvage some data depending on how bad the crash is.

We already covered this stuff. 🙂

If you're running an SSD alongside a traditional hard drive, those are two separate physical devices. If one fails, it doesn't take the other one down with it. Say your SSD craps out; your old-school hard drive stays perfectly fine.

Crystal clear.

You also need to distinguish between the OS, your apps, and your actual user data...

Just let me grab my broom... I'll sweep all that up for you. 🙂

Got it, sounds good.
Just one more thing on my mind though... purely out of curiosity... what would actually happen if I kept my current OS on the hard drive but added an SSD and installed a second OS there?
I'm not planning on doing it and I know it might be a pointless question... just wondering. 😉

Jason Harris5 said:It's just because they don't know any better.

A modern file system like NTFS (which has been standard on client OSs from Windows XP up to now) can actually mount a new partition as an empty folder within an existing partition instead of showing it as a new drive letter in My Computer.

Microsoft operating systems maintain their own database containing info about the PC and all the software installed on it. This is called the registry and it’s unique to every single OS installation and machine. Because of that, even if you copy over the data, the registry entries stay tied to the original system. It's basically impossible to move an app from one OS to another just by "copying and pasting" folders.

I'm not sure I totally get this... but I'd guess—you can't really move programs if they're sitting in "Program Files" on the C: drive.
But wait, can I install a program somewhere else besides there?
One time I tried to put something on my D: drive, and my computer was like... "don't do that..." so I just let it go to the usual spot.

Not sure if this is useful info, but I've only read number 1 so far. Maybe someone will find it interesting.
(Just realized there isn't more... how am I supposed to find the other 104?)

Jason Harris5 said:sorry, was busy typing...

Prostate? 😁 That's taking a while...

I took a quick look at my water heater (it's a Vaillant's, can't remember the exact model) where the cable goes, and there's the receiver for the Nest Thermostat on the wall. Weird thing is, the green light is on. But the heat isn't working—the thermostat didn't even send a signal to heat the water or kick the pump on. Why is the light still on?

What light? Doesn't that one look just like a regular 240?
Oh, you're talking about the receiver.

Yeah, it's fine that it's lit. 😉

It doesn't hurt to ask. Look, your receiver stays lit, just like my TV and hard drive recorder and everything else... but none of that stuff just turns itself off or "goes to sleep" like mine is doing right now. If I sent my old man to bed... I don't know, but I'm pretty sure the temperature was showing. (The way it's acting surprised me, actually, kinda nice.)

What's a partition? And how do you plan on adding new ones or splitting existing ones? Now that you know which parts of the hard drive are which, obviously.

Nothing at all. It's not like someone builds a fence around it.
That's like asking me where every single song is on a CD.

Even if you split one (physical) drive into several partitions, it's still just one drive. Your data isn't any safer because it's all sitting on the same device.

Yeah, I know it's one drive.
So what does this mean then (from your link)?

Partitioning a hard drive isn't mandatory, but it can be useful for organizing data on the drive.

Useful how?

An OS isn't an app like Zoom, so you can't just "uninstall" it. Splitting one physical drive into multiple partitions doesn't really make sense. What you call C, D, E... Z is still the SAME drive. You can do it if it makes you happy, but there's no practical reason for it. Especially not when you bring up "virus protection."

I don't know... that's just what I read.
Then why do so many people bother setting up multiple partitions?
I get that an OS isn't just some regular app... I wasn't really asking about that, though. I was wondering if those other folders—like Program Files that usually go on the C drive by default—can be saved if you're installing new Windows onto an Intel?

Jason Harris5 said:Even when your computer is in sleep mode, it’s still drawing power. Same goes for the card reader. Those little indicator lights? They're just telling you the device is getting juice. As long as there's power, that light stays on. Simple as that, right?

Yeah, makes sense. If there's power running through it, things should be firing up. But why isn't anything else kicking in? Like the temp display? That just stays dead. And the fan won't even spin, even though the PC is definitely plugged in.
So you're saying it's fine if the whole thing just goes up in flames? 😉

Got two questions.

So, you want to know what a partition means to me? Honestly, it's just carving up your drive into different sections so things stay organized. Simple enough, right?

Not really.
Basically, it makes no sense. 😁
Like having two or more separate partitions on a hard drive?

Where'd you get the idea that having two, three, or even more is better? And why exactly?

Saw this online—can't remember where exactly. Seems like a good idea to keep Windows on one drive and dump everything else, like docs, videos, and photos, onto a second one? That way, if a virus or whatever hits the PC, it usually just trashes the C drive while the other one stays totally clean... right?
Plus, isn't it just way easier to keep all your important stuff safe if you ever have to wipe the OS?

So, what exactly is a system partition?

The one with all the essentials to actually get the PC running. You know, the OS and some basic software?
Not sure if I got the answers right, but I just put them down exactly how they look to me.

Walter Fowler61 said:I’ve gotta hand it to Jane Doe. She’s the absolute best. Honestly, anyone looking at her profile could learn a ton—whether you're a total tech newbie or someone who actually knows their way around a PC. She’s got this way of explaining things, and she doesn't mind if you have to ask the same thing five times before it finally clicks. Seriously, props to her. There are plenty of us out there who act like we know everything when we really don't, right?

Everyone’s always giving me grief... so I figured it was about time I had my own little moment. Cheers. 🙂

This isn't really my own little corner... I didn't exactly "start" this thread myself, they just assigned it to me so I wouldn't bug everyone else. 😁
Knowledge is pretty subjective, isn't it? I won't claim to be some genius, but honestly, I know way more now than I did a few years back, and I can actually help people out with stuff. To an expert? Sure, I might look clueless. But hey, that's just how it goes. 🙂
I haven't really messed with hardware before—mostly just been trying to wrap my head around the software basics. Taking it one step at a time, you know? It's actually pretty cool finally knowing what's going on under the hood.
Just saying... I was actually a little nervous about getting a clear case at first. I thought all the internal lights would be way too distracting, but honestly? It’s actually pretty cool being able to see everything inside. Plus, I know exactly what I'm looking at when it comes to the basic components.

Keep it coming, Jane Doe. Your questions actually help all of us figure things out as we go. To everyone else who thinks they’re an expert: please, just chill with the technical jargon and the constant arguing. It doesn't help the rest of us beginners. I'm definitely sticking around to read more. Jane Doe, don't stop—we're all listening.

Why don't you just ask whatever's on your mind? This is actually a pretty great spot for that. 😉
If you can actually ask a coherent question that guys can wrap their heads around, you’re already ahead of the game. Isn't that basically half the battle? 😁

Anyone know how to fix the audio settings on Zoom? My speakers keep cutting out whenever I join a call. I didn't have this issue on my old setup, but I eventually figured it out by messing with the Sound settings—just set both the default device and the default communication device manually. Works like a charm.
So... is it actually normal that my card reader lights stay on all the time? There are two lights, but one is glowing from inside the slot—you can really see it through the opening. Even when the screen goes dark and the PC goes into sleep mode, those lights are still burning. Everything else is pitch black; no fan LEDs like I used to have, no temp readings on the display... just those lights. It doesn't bother me, honestly, but I was wondering: should they be turning off sometimes? Like, when the computer is sleeping? Or what?

Just thinking out loud here. Since I only had one partition, and I know how much better it is to have two, I actually asked a friend to set that up for me. Then I read that having even more might be better. I’m not looking to change anything now, but I am curious—is it actually a good idea to keep just Windows and basic apps on the system partition, then put all my extra programs and games on a second one, and maybe use a third just for documents? Or is it better to just keep everything on the main drive?
On that note—I’m currently running 32-bit Windows on my C drive. If I ever decide to pick up an SSD... I've heard you can just clone everything from C over to the new drive.
But what happens if I put a different version of Windows on that SSD, like the 64-bit one? Would the whole computer just freak out or something?
In a perfect world... I'd just install the new Windows on the SSD and wipe the old stuff off the C drive... then reinstall my apps. That shouldn't be much of a headache, right?
Do I really have to delete every single program from C, or is there a way to keep them? Like, can I save that "Program Files" folder somehow and just plug it into the new Windows setup?

Michael Jackson10 said:What, you already started the upgrade?
Or did you finally hit the jackpot?
It started out innocent enough: "let me fix up this old PC for cheap," now there's a whole new build, buying up Cables, protectors, Intel...
Just kidding...

Nah... just asking. 😁 Maybe one of these days...
I am going to grab a power strip, though, just to clean up this mess of heavy-duty wires and plugs. There are way too many.

You can pick any kind, honestly I don't think it makes sense with current prices to go anything smaller than 128 (120) GB. You choose the brand based on whoever claims they're the best, but 70% of what's out there uses the exact same controller and memory anyway...

That's exactly what I wanted to know, we can talk brands and sizes later...
Yeah, I wouldn't even look at anything under 120. I'll just end up cluttering everything up... making a total mess. 😁

crimsonstag84 said:Just make sure you have a SATA slot on your motherboard. Ideally, you want SATA3 (6Gb/s) so you can actually hit those top speeds with an Intel drive. That’s basically it.

It says here...
Storage - 8 x SATA3 6.0 Gb/s Cables, support RAID (RAID 0, RAID 1, RAID 5 and RAID 10), NCQ, AHCI and Hot Plug
...so is that all there is to it? Can I just grab any drive I want?

What should I actually look out for when picking up an Intel drive? Besides the obvious price and quality stuff, does it need to match my motherboard specifically... or is there some other compatibility thing I should worry about?
Say if the board is this one—what "kind" of Intel won't work with it?

Michael Jackson10 said:Look, you aren't a teenager who needs a disco ball on your desk. This thing stays active while you're working, otherwise, it just sleeps. You can totally tweak the settings—adjusting when it shuts off or how long it stays on—but you'll get used to it. No need to go overboard...

Scared me half to death... thought I was a goner. 😁

Temperature? What exactly are you reading, and where? Whatever that old one was showing, who knows—probably just internal case temp since it used that tiny little probe you could stick anywhere before it wandered off. Honestly, temperatures aren't really comparable, so don't sweat it.

It has a display... That’s why I liked the case... I know, I know... it doesn't make sense, but hey, some of us just like the little things.

And yeah, the stock cooler comes in the box with the processor, but they build them just "barely" enough, so it has to run at max capacity to keep the chip under control. This one handles heat much better, so the fan spins slower. It isn't constantly redlining, which means it's way quieter...

Oh yeah... total rebirth. That old one was seriously annoying.

I'll find a good home for it.

Those people making the tablet covers aren't getting back to my emails. I tried their live chat on the site, but they told me to just wait for a response.
If I don't hear anything... I'm selling this iPhone 15 case.

Michael Jackson10 said:M
New bells and whistles in Microsoft Office? Honestly, they haven't really come up with anything truly groundbreaking in years. The whole foundation goes all the way back to the MS-DOS days: you've got a text editor, a spreadsheet, and then Windows added the ability to format things and make visual editing easier—basically throwing in bits of desktop publishing since everyone has a little printer at home now. It’s mostly just putting new packaging on old ideas; one day the menus look like this, the next they look like that, moving stuff up, down, left, or right. The only actual progress is in collaboration tools and some corporate buzzword features like data analytics...

That’s exactly what I was thinking... it's not like there's anything revolutionary about it... it's just a new look for me. And until I figure out where everything went, I might as well just buy a new computer, right? 😁

The computer... (if we ignore how often the connection drops, but that's a Comcast issue...) I find myself constantly checking if it's actually alive or if it just died on me. It's like watching a baby to see if they're breathing. 😁
Even my laptop would go to sleep on its own... mine wouldn't do that, it would just keep spinning and lagging. (Unless I manually put it to sleep.) So I'd think it had finally kicked the bucket.
And there aren't any indicator lights. My old one used to glow—that single red fan light helped me see if it was running. I thought this one would have something too... every photo shows blue lights everywhere, front and back... but mine is just dark and dead. Actually, maybe that's better, I just can't tell if it's working. 🙂

It's showing a temperature of 24-25. My old one was hitting 35-36 lately (it was warmer out, granted) before it would shut down.
By the way... what exactly is that temperature measuring?
One more thing...
When I was picking out a fan with your help, we had to make sure it matched the processor. Does this stock one come with the CPU? I have this specific box it's in... it's like it's already attached, but then you still have to install it. Is there a way to know which fan comes with a specific processor, or do they just toss in whatever cheap one fits?
I'm guessing that stock fan isn't worth much... like, nobody really needs it because every processor probably has its own, or people just upgrade to something better.
Now I see the box says A8 5600... so that's from the processor, which means the kit included 🙂 (the fan is all that's left).

Michael Jackson10 said:Look, for just basic home stuff, any of them will do just fine. Most people barely even scratch the surface of what these programs can actually do anyway. But since everyone is so picky about OpenOffice or LibreOffice—mostly because they've been conditioned by school, work, and how heavily Microsoft lobbies the government to stay dominant—you might be better off sticking with Word. Everyone uses it, and honestly, you'll just run into headaches trying to open newer Microsoft formats otherwise. Just see how it goes; if everything works, don't go collecting software for no reason.

I mean, they're plenty for me—honestly, I’ve gotten pretty used to them by now. It just caused a few headaches when I tried sending important stuff out and people couldn't actually open the files. Probably just my own fault for saving things the wrong way, right?

Is this thing refusing to open more than ten files because of Microsoft Word or is it just OpenOffice acting up?

Forget Word—I’m just using OpenOffice and LibreOffice on my old PC. Haven't really had the chance to hammer through a bunch of docs back-to-back yet, you know?
It doesn't happen every single time, but it’s definitely a recurring thing. Usually, a quick restart fixes it and it opens right back up.

I actually like this more than Excel 2010. It’s solid, clean, and legitimate, but I guess I'm just old school. I can't stand when Microsoft makes those pointless changes just for the sake of looking different. I’ve already memorized the syntax from using OpenOffice, so now everything else just feels off. I do most things by muscle memory—you know, visual habits where you don't even think about it. Once I've mastered "Menu, fifth one on the right, fourth one down," that's it. Trying to use shortcuts just messes with my head, especially when OpenOffice is set to something other than English. Honestly, if I really stop to think about it, I'd prefer any program as long as it's in English.

Things are gonna be a little messy for a bit... at least until I get used to Microsoft Word again. I had it back in the Windows XP days, but now everything feels like a total whirlwind. There's just so much stuff moved around... I'll have to figure out where everything went.
Slowly but surely... it'll happen. Or maybe not, and I'll just head back to OpenOffice and LibreOffice. 😁

Michael Jackson10 said:Seriously, you're totally tripping... You still haven't actually said what you used to make these docs. Was it Microsoft Word, OpenOffice, or LibreOffice? You just mention "Open" or "Libre" and leave it at that. So, what's the deal? Did you build them from scratch or just pull them out of thin air?
Look, in theory, that "compatibility" should work just fine on simpler files. We're talking basic text documents without a bunch of crazy tables or weird formatting specific to OpenOffice. Right?

Used to run OpenOffice and LibreOffice on my old rig. Now I've got Word.
Why though? Was it just a bad call? I honestly don't know. I used to have Microsoft Word, but ever since I reinstalled Windows—I can't even remember how many years ago—it just disappeared. Now I'm just trying to get it back.
If I end up hating it or it just won't run right, it’s no big deal. I can always just reinstall LibreOffice or OpenOffice.
So, I've been running into this weird thing lately. For some reason, after I open maybe ten documents or so, everything just hits a wall. Even if I've already closed the first ten, it just won't let me open anything else. It just stops working. Anyone else dealt with this?

It really comes down to how you approach things. Personally, I’m all about going 100% on everything—whether it's a new gadget or a service—as long as the warranty is active. If it breaks? Let them deal with the headache at their expense. Plus, it's way easier to just wipe everything and start fresh while the setup is still new. Once you get too settled, you start making excuses like, "I don't want to mess with this now, I finally got my workspace organized just right..." Habit is a trap, isn't it? That's exactly how you end up with a mountain of digital junk.

I wouldn't mind going 100% with all of it... but I can't exactly expect the guys at Best Buy to start messing around with my OS. If I actually told them exactly what to do and how to install everything, maybe I could hold them to finishing the whole job properly. Right?
So, here's the deal... I tried bugging a friend about it, but we aren't exactly besties. He's always in such a rush, too. He did the bare minimum to get by, but now? I just can't get him to sit down and redo everything from scratch.
That's all I've got for now. He finally set up my C and D drives and got the Wi-Fi working... honestly, I better just stop bugging him. It is what it is.

What kind of slow connection is this? Looks like that Gigaset USB adapter is stuck on the b/g standard, which means it tops out at 54 Mbit/s... in theory, anyway. 🙂 It’s called 108 for a reason, right? That whole "Super G" standard was always pretty sketchy. Plus, any router you've got should be hitting similar speeds—or at least, that's how it works, isn't it? We're talking way beyond what the average home connection even needs, since most people are barely pulling 4 Mbps of actual throughput. Take a look at your wireless connection settings and see what speed it's actually pulling. Is it jumping around a lot? Honestly, once you hit 18 Mbps, you should be golden. If you aren't, you're either dealing with massive interference between the router and your adapter, or maybe just run a speed test to make sure your ISP isn't screwing you over on the line itself.

I don't know... that's just what he said.
Man, this connection is crawling... way slower than it should be.

When it comes to Thunderbird, the best way is to just grab everything inside the old profile folder and move it over to the new computer. Just a heads up—the profile name actually matters. You don't want to just overwrite the entire new folder with the old one. Instead, copy the stuff *inside* the old folder and paste it right into the new one. That way, you keep the new profile's name intact while getting all your data back. Makes sense, right?

I didn't quite have the guts to do it myself... though I definitely thought about it! Luckily, a friend stepped in and handled it for me.

Just wanted to let you know everything's sorted now. It's working... I've got my wireless internet back up and running.
Just jumping in on this one since I totally missed it... even though the issues aren't really a thing anymore.

Michael Jackson10 said:Man, I have no idea what you're getting at with the wiring situation. Are you saying the wireless adapter isn't set up right, so you're just plugging in an Ethernet cable to get online?

That thing I mentioned about the wires? It wasn't an internet issue at all. I was talking about the cables for the keyboard, mouse, and monitor.
I hooked everything up—minus the internet—just to test the rig out. Wanted to see if I could at least get it running offline. It worked, but yeah, it had those same issues.
So, I switched back to my old rig last night just to get some internet access and do some typing... you know how it goes.
Day two with the new rig and Windows wouldn't even boot up...
And that's the deal with the wiring.
Regarding the internet, I actually brought the cable over later and hooked everything up myself... but now it's been unplugged.

It feels like you think everything is just a software issue and the hardware is somehow innocent. Honestly? One clean, proper reinstall should fix it all. It takes a little longer if you actually want things done right and don't end up staring at a bunch of error icons in the Control Panel.

Not sure what was causing the glitch, but everything’s running smooth now. All good?

You're being a bit cryptic about these files. I can't get them to open in Microsoft Word—did you make them in OpenOffice or LibreOffice?

Am I really that hard to understand? 😕
I mean... honestly, people here just don't get me, but is it really that big of a deal?🙈
So I tried opening a Word doc on my new computer this past Saturday... but man, it was a struggle. It took like a full minute just to load. Any idea why that would happen? No clue.
It’s opening just fine now.
Regarding those old files, I just finished moving them over. Opened a few to test the waters... and they work fine. We'll see if any of them give me trouble down the road, right?
If this doesn't work... I guess I can just redownload OpenOffice and LibreOffice and try saving them in a different format. Any better ideas?

Honestly, I'm not surprised. I find myself constantly juggling old OpenOffice files and newer Microsoft Word docs myself. No matter how you look at it, there’s more incompatibility than actual compatibility between them. Plus, OpenOffice handles those "sketchy" files way better than Word does—Word usually just refuses to even open an OO document because of formatting errors. Just whatever you do, don't open a messy file in Word and hit save, or you'll really mess things up.

So... I should probably brace myself for some trouble. 🙄
Why make it simple when you can just make it complicated?🙂

Aside from Microsoft Word, you really should grab the original software like OpenOffice or LibreOffice to handle those older files. If you don't, the formatting gets totally trashed, even if they were saved as .doc or .xls...

That’s what I was thinking. I’ll just see how it plays out first...

As for everything else—if that external hard drive isn't behaving, it's either a bad driver install for your motherboard or USB, or that front port just isn't pushing enough juice. Try plugging it into the back, maybe a USB 3.0 port.

It's all working now.

And man, quit with the riddles! Just be straight up: when I do this with this specific program or device, I get this error, using this cable, for this purpose...

My bad, didn't mean to make things confusing.

The dual-channel stuff doesn't have anything to do with these issues. Honestly, there's no point using Win32 with more than 3 GB of RAM in any setup. You could fix that right now by reinstalling Windows with the 64-bit version to actually use what you've got, or just wait until you upgrade your RAM—though if you mess with it now, you might end up needing a full reinstall anyway.
You know, maybe that kid next door could come over and whip up some pancakes real quick...

I'm leaving it as is for now... at least until I break something. 😉
If nothing else works... I finally realized how much junk was in here. Might as well clear the clutter and start fresh.
My connection is slow, plus a crappy router and an old USB adapter... nothing revolutionary going on there.
But man... the best part? This PC is dead silent. When I first turned it on, I actually thought it wasn't running. 😍

fadedorca66 said:Just grab the profile folder:

http://www.wikihow.com/Back-Up-Email...la-Thunderbird

Since you're plugging those old hard drives back in anyway, you can just dig it up on the new PC and copy it right over.

I managed to get into my accounts and some old emails popped up, but I'm missing my address book. What actually happens if I copy that "profile" folder into the exact same spot? Do I need to delete the one that's already there?
Does it matter if the username isn't the same as before?

Michael Jackson10 said:Where are those files sitting right now: on your local drive or an external one? Give me some specifics, because it might be a USB issue...

Everything's fine with my files now. No clue what was going on before.
I had tried opening a new document—meaning they were on the local drive—and they'd either take forever to load or just wouldn't open at all. Even the junk files were acting up. Now, everything is working perfectly.
And those files on the external hard drive? Same story... it would start to open and then just freeze up on me.
But yeah, it's all good now.
I still haven't gotten my wireless set up and I need someone to make two partitions for me... hasn't happened yet, even though I asked (forgot who...🤷 )

Timothy Kim60 said:I don't get you at all. What do you mean by "it didn't react"? Like, is it refusing to boot up, is it freezing, is it just running slow, or are you missing some software?

Look, I know I probably made that sound a little confusing...
It booted up on Saturday. But then I try to open a new document and nothing happens... I just give up, sit on the couch for a bit, and eventually, the document finally opens. Or I try to empty the Trash? Nope. I try to move files to the bin, and they just jump right back where they were. What gives?
It booted up on Sunday, but wouldn't load Windows. It just sat there stuck on the ASRock logo with those random instructions in the bottom right corner—you know, press X to boot, hit F6 for something else, just a few lines of options. But honestly? None of it worked. No response at all.

What wires are you even talking about?

Monitor, mouse, keyboard cables—I just unplugged them all from my old PC and moved them over to the new one... and then everything finally kicked in. But now I’m stuck seeing this exact same image on the screen right when it boots up. Any ideas?

So, is it a hardware issue—like, if it won't even power up, you just return it—or is it software? You know, maybe some missing drivers or programs or something?

Maybe it’s just me? 😁
No clue, it’s working now. Just don't have wireless up since I haven't figured out how to set that part yet.

Would a 64-bit system run normally? I can't think of any software that wouldn't work. That would have to be some prehistoric junk. Honestly, 32-bit should be totally fine; it shouldn't make a difference. Your PC should run perfectly well on 32-bit, so it’s definitely not causing your issues. The only real difference is that I can't recognize more than 3 or so GB.

Yeah, I get it... I was thinking about tossing in another 4GB just to get that dual-channel boost, but if that doesn't work, what's even the point? Honestly, I should've just gone with a 2x2 setup from the start. Too late now, though, right?
Would an old keyboard, mouse, and monitor still work fine on a 64-bit system?
How much of a headache is that really? Say I finally grab an SSD one day and install Windows 64-bit on it... does that mean I have to reinstall every single program from scratch? Right?

Robert Rodriguez2 said:What’s even the point of running 32-bit Windows anymore?

Dunno. Maybe there just aren't any others out there?
He mentioned they can pick up some speed on 64-bit. If it covers what I need, then 32-bit should be fine, right?

Yeah, the difference is slim, but you can't actually use all 4GB—only about 3.25.

The guys at Best Buy gave you solid advice, though; there's really no point in bumping up the RAM on a 32-bit system.

Gotcha.

If it's a hardware issue, return it. But honestly? It looks like that guy didn't do his job particularly well.

It's working now... so he's not technically to blame. He mentioned I might not have plugged the keyboard in right. I don't think I messed that up, but hey, who knows? Could be...

Larry Ortiz5 said:Totally agree. If he's such an expert on PCs, why didn't you ask him for advice when you were building it?😛

Paa... just for other reasons.
Plus... since you guys are all hanging out here, I figured we could all brainstorm together to find the best fix.
I knew I'd grill him later, so I let him off the hook for now.
Besides, software seems more like his thing.
So... yeah. That's basically why.

Jason Harris5 said:with friends like these... who needs enemies... 😉

Nah, he's not some shady guy or anything. He's legit. He ran his own IT business and does great work for everyone... he even fixed my laptop without any issues
He's just messing with me.
Here's the deal... it was working fine the day before yesterday, but then things got weird. I'd try to open a document and nothing happens... I walk away from the PC... then a minute later, boom, there it is...
Yesterday was a total bust... I'd get prompts telling me what to click, but nothing would react.
Now that I've plugged the cord back in, it's working again. Who knows what tomorrow brings.
I actually stretched out this cable (which I didn't even have, had to go grab one) and now... I'm checking in... but I still can't get this Gigaset USB adapter 108 to cooperate.
I really need to clear these wires because they're sprawled all over my room... it's a total tripping hazard right now.

Timothy Kim60 said:If it's broken, just return it. There's no reason it shouldn't be opening files. Do you even have the right programs installed (like Word or a PDF reader)? Might be that...

They're there, they're there... it just wasn't responding... now it is... though I'm running into issues since most of my stuff is in OpenOffice or LibreOffice (some won't load properly... haven't had much time to dig into it yet)... so I'll probably have to tinker with that too.
Ugh...😢 ah, never mind, I'll just sleep on it and hopefully tomorrow is better. It'll probably turn out okay, I'm just being impatient.
What do you guys think about that 32-bit thing? I hadn't really thought about it, or even known the difference (did a little reading today)... a buddy told me 32-bit is better because some stuff won't run on 64-bit (my main focus is gaming/hardcore stuff)... I know the drivers for the printer and scanner are fine. He says since I'm not doing video work, I don't need 64. And I trust him, I'm sure I don't need it... but if that prevents me from upgrading my RAM to 2x4GB (to get dual channel)... then maybe 64-bit is the way to go after all... 🤷
The guys at the repair shop said 64-bit should be totally fine for this setup and shouldn't cause problems.
Now I just need to untangle these wires...👋 fingers crossed everything works normally tomorrow. 🙂

Still having major issues with my PC. Basically, it just won't work. First, I was troubleshooting via remote support, then I had to lug the whole thing in because it died, then it seemed fine, then back to remote calls because they sent it back without fixing the connection... and now... it’s like I need to plug it in and...
It seems to run for a bit on day one, but I can't open any files, the Recycle Bin is acting crazy—I drag it to the bottom right corner and it just snaps back to the top right—and when I try to access my external hard drive plugged into the front port, it just spins and spins until the screen goes gray and freezes up.
I have no clue if it's the hardware or some bad OS installation...
A friend installed Windows (32-bit) for me, and the guys at the repair shop were baffled why I'm running 32-bit instead of 64-bit. I actually wanted to add another 4GB of RAM, but they told me there's no point doing that on a 32-bit system.

Now all I get is a black screen filled with messages telling me to press X, F, or Tab... but nothing happens. Honestly, I'm starting to lose my mind here...

Jason Harris5 said:So, did you end up picking anything up at the grocery store? If you did, I honestly think the real test of a shopkeeper’s heart is whether they’re actually willing to swap out a perfectly fine product for something else just to keep you happy.

At a store? 😕
You mean like walking into a shop? No, I ordered this online.

Michael Jackson10 said:You're following me like the FBI, you're my destiny 🙂

I just wanted to show the flip side of things here... everyone is out for blood: "my rights, my rights," as if retailers exist to grant our every wish instead of being actual businesses rather than some midnight fortune tellers.
Look, realistically, what is the store supposed to do with that cover? There's no packaging, what about a discount? They'd have to pay you out of the register, which leaves them with a cash shortage...
It isn't that simple for them either:
- Technically, they would first need to be registered to trade in used goods to legally buy back an item from a customer (because once you return something that isn't in the exact same shape and packaging you bought it in, it’s not a standard return anymore—it's something else entirely), and most shops aren't set up for that.
- That’s a prerequisite if they want to buy items back without breaking regulations.
- Liking it, disliking it, it fits, it doesn't... honestly, those categories don't really factor into a commercial transaction. A sale is a legal contract: you choose the item, you buy it, and as long as it functions exactly how it was described and sold, the retailer isn't liable. If you messed up the size, that's on you. Wrong color? Your problem. Wrong shape? Your problem. It was on display; you should have checked. The only exception is if the retailer intentionally misled you, or if the label was flat-out wrong and you have proof, or if it was a telemarketing sale where the picture doesn't match reality...
You can't return half a loaf of bread to the bakery just because you overestimated how much you could eat...
- If they accept it as a return, it creates a massive paperwork headache: they either have to claim it as warehouse damage or figure out how to mark it down as clearance stock, blah blah... personally, if it was a small amount, I'd rather just hand someone cash from my own pocket than deal with all that hassle...

Let's not jump to conclusions and call people rude or unprofessional over situations like this. You're usually communicating with an employee who reports to an owner; they often don't even have the authority to approve a return like this, and they're just trying to protect their paycheck... sure, they might actually be jerkish, or the company policy might suck, but these specific cases are actually examples of a business trying to provide decent service to you...

Anyway, go ahead and ask @average how they handle stuff like this at their place... oops, there he is...

I’m not claiming any special rights or anything, I'm just hoping for a little goodwill and seeing if there's any way to make it work.

Look, realistically, what would the guy even do with that cover? There's no packaging, no discount applied, and he'd have to pay me out of his register, which would leave him short on his till...

Why would he have to pay me out? He could just give me the one that actually fits, and I'll pay the difference since this one is worth less. Then he can just sell it later as an open-box or clearance item.
If you can grab a floor model plant at a discount because the box is gone, surely there's a way to handle this too.

It isn't that simple for them either:
- Technically, they'd need to be registered as a used goods dealer to buy back items from customers (because once you return something that isn't in its original shape or packaging, it's no longer a standard return—it's basically a trade-in, and most shops aren't set up for that)
- That's a prerequisite if they want to buy stuff back without breaking regulations
- Likes, dislikes, whatever... those shouldn't matter in a business transaction. Every sale is a legal contract: you choose the item, you buy it, and as long as it works exactly as described and as it was put on the shelf, the retailer isn't responsible. If you got the wrong size, that's on you. Wrong color? Your problem. Wrong shape? You should've checked it while it was on display. The only exceptions are if the seller intentionally misled you, if the label was flat-out wrong and you have proof, or if it was an online purchase within the first 15 days (since the photo might not match the reality).
You can't walk into a bakery and return half a loaf just because you thought you'd eat the whole thing...

Look, I get that things can get messy sometimes, but if someone actually wants to make it work, they’ll find a way.

Don't go labeling people as rude or unprofessional just because of situations like this. You're dealing with an employee who reports to the owner; usually, they don't have the authority to approve stuff on their own, and they're just trying to protect their paycheck... sure, some people might genuinely be jerks or the company policy could suck, but often these hiccups are just part of getting decent service...

It's not like I called anyone rude or unprofessional for those reasons or anything...😉
I really won't. If it doesn't work out? I'll just buy it somewhere else. Yeah, I'll end up spending way more than I planned, but honestly, who cares? It's not the end of the world. There are actual tragedies out there... like, you know, a kid fighting leukemia stuck in a hospital for months.

Anyway, why don't you ask @average how they handle these kinds of things over at their place... oh, wait, there he is...

@Jason Harris5, how? Seriously, how?