Posts by Andrew Fowler49

I reckon it should be plenty, though honestly, it all boils down to how many drives you're running at once. You're looking at somewhere in the ballpark of 250-300W.

Alright... give it a shot by heading into the BIOS and switching from UEFI to Legacy mode, or just try disabling Secure Boot altogether. That might actually get the USB to behave.

To get into the BIOS, you just tap the Del key, F1 through F12, or Esc—whatever your specific machine prompts you with on the startup screen. Once you're in, you can actually manage which devices show up in that boot menu. Most likely, your USB device has been disabled in the settings. You won't see it as a boot option during the next restart until you go in there and enable it. Good luck.

Did you actually set the primary boot device within the BIOS settings itself, or did you just pick it from the one-time boot menu after hitting restart?

Rebecca Gonzalez3 said:Where could I pick up this "plug" in Chicago?

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bv8tlVEqRY...rter-plug.jpeg

CHIPOTEKA Sure, you can get the premium stuff, but there are definitely cheaper options out there if you're looking to save a few bucks.

Look, let’s be real about page yields. The box might claim 1,500 pages, but you’re realistically looking at closer to 1,000 before things go south. Prices fluctuate wildly depending on which printer model you decide to babysit. And while sure, you can get these cartridges refilled, don't expect it to last forever. Eventually, the drum wears out, and you'll end up with those annoying vertical streaks running down every single page. Keep all that in mind before you commit to a machine.

Generally speaking, Samsung printers tend to be more budget-friendly when you actually crunch the numbers on cost-per-page compared to HP.

Now, HP used to offer an inkjet line where, if you stuck with their original color ink, your cost per page could dip below 5 cents. The catch? You'll pay a hefty premium upfront—anywhere from $150 to $200 depending on whether you need Wi-Fi or other bells and whistles.

When you’re shopping for a printer, don't let the sticker price fool you. You have to look at the cost of the toner or ink and—more importantly—whether there are actually any third-party replacements available. You also need to calculate the actual yield; check the ratio of what the cartridge costs versus how many pages it actually spits out. The hardware itself is always cheap—it’s a deceptive bargain when you factor in the long-term drain on your wallet. Manufacturers aren't making their real money on the machine; they're bleeding you dry through the consumables.