Larry Ortiz5 said:If you want to be absolutely certain, just boot into the BIOS and check what temperatures are being reported there...
Fine. I checked the temps in the BIOS; system temp is at 39 degrees and the CPU is sitting at 42. But the second I fired up the PC, I checked SpeedFan while the machine was still cold and saw this: Temp 1 is 31, temp 2 is 37, but temp 3 is hitting 85. That’s physically impossible for a cold boot. It's like trying to start a car in a blizzard and the engine is already boiling. So, we're looking at a faulty sensor?😕The rest of the readings stay perfectly normal.😂
I need to swap out my power supply because my current one is ancient and some cheap no-name unit, so I'm looking for advice on what to pick up and how many watts I actually need. My setup is as follows: CPU-AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+, RAM is 4.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 373MHz, motherboard is Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. GA-MA74GM-S2 (Socket M2), graphics card is Nvidia GeForce 9600 GT, hard drive is a Seagate ST500DM002-1BD142 ATA Device (SATA), and an ASUS DRW-22B3S ATA Device DVD drive. That’s everything, and I don't plan on upgrading this rig any further. The only extra thing is that I occasionally plug in an external hard drive to back up movies.
Larry Ortiz5 said:If you're just tracking temps through HWMonitor, don't sweat it. Other users are seeing the exact same thing—it's just a bug in the software.
Exactly. But SpeedFan is reporting the same damn temperature.🤷😕
I just finished installing a Gigabyte GA-MA74GM-S2 motherboard along with a new 466GB Seagate ST500DM002-142 ATA drive. I also applied fresh thermal paste, so everything seems fine except for one specific issue: the chipset temps. My GPU is sitting at 45°C, the HDD is at 37°C, and the CPU is steady at 32°C. However, the motherboard readings are a mess. Tmp10 is at 37°C and Tmpin1 is at 30°C, but Tmpin2 is hitting a massive 72°C while idling. It’s like running an engine that's overheating while the rest of the car is ice cold. Does anyone know what causes this or how to fix it?
I've been scouring Craigslist, and I can't decide which would fit my build better: ASRock, ASUS, or Gigabyte—all AM2 socket, obviously.🤷You’d have to make sure they actually have driver support, wouldn't you?🙂
Benjamin King2 said:Look, grab Speccy and find out the exact motherboard model so we can actually hunt for drivers. The P3 AEP isn't even listed on the ASUS website. And don't touch those generic Windows drivers; they're just placeholders that won't talk to your hardware properly. Grab the GPU driver straight from the Nvidia site. You really should have checked if Windows 7 even supported this gear before you started installing everything.
I need to know if it’s worth upgrading to a different motherboard, considering I'm running DDR2 memory and an Nvidia GeForce 9600 gt. My CPU is an Athlon 64 X2 5000+ on an AM2 socket.
I grabbed this driver tune-up tool from the ASUS website to scan my rig. Here is what the scan spit out: Home Scan Results
View System Change O/S
ZAVESCAK Status Download Display adapters NVIDIA GeForce 9600 gt (Microsoft Corporation - WDDM v1.1) Bad Download IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers via bus master ići Controller - 0571 Bad Download VIA Serial ATA Controller - 0591 Bad Download Keyboards Standard PS/2 Keyboard Good Mice and other pointing devices HID-compliant mouse Good Monitors Generic PnP Monitor Good Network adapters Microsoft ISATAP adapter Good Realtek RTL8169 / 8110 Family PCI ethernet NIC (NDIS 6.20) Bad Download Ports (COM & LPT) Communications Port (COM1) Good Printer Port (LPT1) Good Sound, video and game controllers Realtek high Definition audio bad download system devices ATK0110 ACPI UTILITY Bad Download System devices ATK0110 ACPI UTILITY Good Universal Serial bus controllers USB Mass Storage Device Good Good via Rev 5 or later USB Universal Host Controller Good Download Good download via USB Enhanced Host Controller Good Download
Here’s the motherboard info from Speccy: Manufacturer ASUSTeK Computer INC. Model P3-AE5 (CPU 1) Version System Version Chipset Vendor VIA Chipset Model K8M890CE Revision 00. Southbridge Vendor VIA Southbridge Model VT8237A Southbridge Revision 00 System temperature sits at 36 °C. It’s holding steady, for now. The BIOS is just one more layer of potential failure. It’s like trying to build a house on quicksand—everything looks solid until the foundation decides to shift under you. BIOS brand American Megatrends Inc. BIOS version 1201. March 17, 2008 Voltage. It’s like trying to run a marathon while breathing through a straw—everything feels strained because the foundation just isn't there. Voltage sitting at 1.008 V. Just like idling in a traffic jam on the I-95—nothing moving, just holding steady. The +3.3V rail is sitting at 3.168 V. That’s thin. It’s like trying to run a marathon while breathing through a cocktail straw. The +5V rail is sitting at 4.838 V. That's cutting it way too close to the limit. It’s like trying to run a marathon while breathing through a straw—it might work for a minute, but you're asking for trouble down the line. The +12V rail is sitting at 11.264 V. That's a red flag. It’s like trying to run a marathon while breathing through a straw; you just can't sustain that kind of pressure. The CMOS battery is sitting at 3.040 V. Just barely holding on. PCI Data PCI-E slot. Slot Type: PCI-E Slot Availability: Open. Bus Width 32 bit Slot Designation PCIEX16 Slot Number 0. The PCI-E slot. Just one more thing to deal with. Slot Type: PCI-E Slot Usage: Available Bus Width 32 bit Slot Designation PCIEX1 Slot Number 1 The PCI slot. Just another point of failure waiting to happen. Slot Type: PCI Slot Usage vs. Available. Bus Width 32 bit Slot Designation PCI1 Slot Number 2. PCI slot. That's it. Short and simple. Slot Type: PCI Slot Usage vs. Available capacity. Bus Width 32 bit Slot Designation PCI2 slot Designation PCI2 slot Number 3
Benjamin King2 said:It doesn't exist. It makes zero difference whether you're running 32-bit or 64-bit; Windows is fundamentally the same. You're either dealing with a bad driver or some buggy software. Did you bother downloading and installing every single driver directly from the hardware manufacturer's site? Does the restart happen during a specific task or just completely at random? Also, list your PC specs.
Thanks for the reply. Here are my specs: CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 5000+, 2.60 GHz. Motherboard: Asus P3 AEP, RAM😁 2x 2 GB, Graphics: Nvidia GeForce 9600 GT, Hard drives: Hitachi HDS 721616, Audio: Realtek High Definition Audio (Driver version 2.11.15.0, product version R268, date modified 8.5.2012), OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit. Let me explain what happened. I was running Windows XP 32-bit before this and everything worked perfectly fine. Since that OS is becoming obsolete, I installed Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit. The installation itself finished without issues. Most drivers were pulled automatically, except for the audio driver (which is why I listed the version) because I had to hunt it down online. Maybe that's the culprit causing the resets. Who knows. Like I said in my last post, I ran Who crashed and it didn't find any errors. Need help. Thanks.
I attempted to install Windows 7 32-bit on my machine, even though I’ve already got the 64-bit version running. As soon as the installation CD loads and tries to boot, everything just dies—I get stuck staring at a black screen with a single gray bar at the bottom, and then nothing happens. It's like hitting a brick wall. Is there a different way to wipe the C drive entirely so I can start fresh with a clean Windows 7 32-bit install? Thanks.
I ran Who crashed to see what was going on, but all I got was this message: "Crash dumps are enabled on your computer. No valid crash dumps have been found on your computer." It’s like trying to find a needle in a haystack when there isn't even a haystack. What could be causing this?
Larry Ortiz5 said:Your only move is to wipe the drive and install x64 Windows. There isn't another way around it...
We're talking past each other here. I already have Windows 7 64-bit running, but since the system keeps rebooting on its own, I was thinking about rolling back to 32-bit. It’s like troubleshooting an old engine—when I was running Windows XP 32-bit, I never dealt with these random restarts.
Joshua Garcia3 said:Since it's a Barebone case, those power supplies are built differently—narrower and longer than what you'd find in a standard US desktop tower. If you aren't planning on dropping in a high-end GPU that requires its own dedicated power cables, and this unit hasn't given you grief yet, there’s zero reason to swap it out. 🙂 According to the specs online, that thing should be pulling about 275 Watts.
Well, thanks for the input. I'm hardly a tech expert, so that actually clears things up for me. Thanks again.🙂
I’m trying to figure out if I need to upgrade my power supply. My current setup is running an Intel Core 2 Duo on an ASUS P3-AE5 motherboard, paired with an NVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT. Right now, I’ve just got a generic 400W unit that came bundled with the case, and frankly, it's a total question mark. Any advice? Thanks.
Jamie Ramos5 said:Maybe your rig is so ancient that you're still running on USB 1.1. 😁 If that isn't the case, you're probably looking at a corrupt file or a faulty drive that’s bottlenecking your write speeds. On the flip side, if you aren't running a modern rig, heavy multitasking might be choking your performance. Give me some actual specs to work with.
My rig is an old workhorse. I'm running Windows XP Service Pack 3 with USB 2.0 ports. Every time I plug in an external drive, I get that annoying pop-up telling me I could be getting much faster speeds. It's like driving a classic muscle car only to have a sensor tell you that you should be in a jet. I need to get this high-speed USB host controller installed. I tried downloading it for Windows XP, but... I checked the site, but there isn't a single free version to be found anywhere. It's like trying to find a decent cup of coffee in a gas station—nothing worth your time.
I’ve got a problem here. Moving a movie from my drive to an external EHD via USB 2.0 is taking forever. A 700 MB file takes about 14 minutes, and a 1.4 GB one drags on for over 25 minutes. In my book, that’s an absolute eternity. I'm wondering if I have some setting messed up on the usbio port or if there's something else fundamentally broken.
I need to clarify things here. I finally figured out how to format this new external drive that's sitting on my desk. Just convert it from NTFS to FAT32. Honestly, using EaseUS Partition Master is the only way to get this done right. I stumbled upon this online. I saw it mentioned on a forum and it actually seems like a solid fix, so if anyone else is dealing with similar headaches, check it out. Give that software a shot; it actually works.
Jamie Ramos5 said:If you don't need it, skip it. But how does a firmware update brick a receiver? Is that an official report? Seems sketchy.
I’ve been scrolling through some tech forums, and apparently, plenty of people have had their receivers fried by this new firewall update. I can't pin down the exact cause—maybe it's just user error during the install or something else entirely. Word is, Infinity users specifically run into trouble if they’re on version 1.0.1. You absolutely cannot upgrade that one. If you do, the screen just goes black and you lose all channel scanning capabilities. I’m currently running version 1.0.2, which came pre-installed from the factory, so I’m going to sit tight until my warranty expires. It works fine now, and I'm perfectly happy using exFAT for now. I'll deal with the upgrade later.🤷