Posts by Chloe Chavez

I'm looking for an all-in-one printer/scanner for my office. I usually pull under 1,000 pages a month. What’s actually worth the money here?

I'm looking for a laptop with:

a 17.3" screen,
an i7 processor,
and an SSD.
Ideally:
-An IPS panel if possible.
-Windows 10 if I can find it... if not, Linux or whatever else works.

Under $2500

So far, I've found these options:

ASUS F756UX-T4054D laptop, 17.3" FHD, i7-6500U 2.5GHz, 8GB DDR3, 500GB HDD + 128GB SSD, 950M 4GB, DVDRW, DOS
Does this have an IPS screen?
-It's DOS. 6,$166 for $333 I'll just install Windows.


ACER Aspire E5-774G NX.GEDEU.006 black (Localization: Canadian)
Does it have an IPS screen? And what does "Canadian localization" actually mean?

+128GB SSD + 1TB HDD

-Linux

Acer Aspire E5-774G-76KE notebook, NX.GEDEX.047, 17.3" FHD, Intel Core i7-7500U up to 3.5GHz, 12GB DDR3, 512GB SSD, Nvidia
Is there an IPS screen on this one?
-Linux

HP ProBook 470 G4 Intel Core i7 7500U 2.70GHz 8GB 256GB SSD DVDRW DL Windows 10 Pro 17.3" FullHD Nvidia GeForce 930 MX 2 2GB P/N: Y8A89EA
Does it have an IPS screen?


+ FHD IPS
Doesn't have an SSD, just an HSSD (basically an 8GB SSD paired with an HDD)
-
Keyboard Layout Portuguese??? What's the big deal?
Windows 8.1

I don't really get this one:
Lenovo Rethink Silver Y70-70 i7-4710HQ/16GB/256S/FHD/MT/MB/GC/B/C/W81 UK keyboard - US localization, 17.3" 1920x1080, Intel HD Graphics 4400, ext DVDRW, Nvidia GeForce GTX 860m, 4GB, Multi-Touch, glare, IPS
-Windows 8.1.
+ IPS Touch screen

What do all these abbreviations mean? "256S FHD MT MB GC B C W81"
w81 = Windows 8.1
FHD = full HD
MT?
MB?
GC?
C?

Which one should I go with? Any others I missed?

Thoughts? Advice? Suggestions? Requests?

George Sanders37 said:Regarding the tanks, sure, if you have two tanks (black and color), you're tossing the whole thing. But just because a CMYK system uses five tanks—black, key, and the CMY colors—and you swap them out one by one, doesn't mean you're actually saving anything.

When I talk about ink consumption, I'm speaking from experience with the Canon inkjets we run at the office; they gulp down ink like there's no tomorrow.

Looking at what’s on the official website, it feels like a total scam to me. There is no way it can print over 5,000 pages, even if you're running it on some ultra-draft mode where it skips every other line.

Some inkjets have a separate printhead, while others have it integrated right into the cartridges, like with an HP.

I see that the printhead for this old model is pretty pricey. Just be careful when you're buying a printer—check how much a replacement printhead actually costs for it.

Yeah, but every company making toner puts it in the fine print—or just leaves it out entirely—that those "xy page" estimates are based on 5% coverage.

And 5% coverage is basically one-fifth of a page covered in very "thin characters."

George Sanders37 said:What’s the weight on that thin paper, and are we talking about standard sizes like Letter or Tabloid?

I've been sitting here thinking about it. I don't really need the whole thin paper printing thing anyway... it's not like that happens more than once a month. I've got OCR software. I can just scan the document, run it through the software to dump it into a Word doc, and then just print it normally.

So yeah, just standard Letter size.

I'm on the hunt for a new MFP—printer, scanner, copier, all in one.
I need a laser, color is a waste of money for me. My volume is pretty heavy, probably around 3,000 to 5,000 pages a month. It really needs to have wireless capabilities because I’ve got several computers spread out across different rooms, and honestly, I can't stand the thought of running cables everywhere. Most importantly, I care about the bottom line—low cost per page is the goal here. I'm looking for a long-term solution; I don't want to be back in this exact same spot buying a new machine in a year. I’m willing to shell out more cash upfront if it means significant savings on ink and toner down the road.

Give me some options, please.

Thanks in advance.

Thanks for all the input, everyone. Just two follow-up questions, purely out of curiosity:

Does RAM actually need a heatsink? Are they really running that hot these days?

What’s the point of having integrated graphics on the CPU if you’re already buying a "real" GPU for the build?

@mellowtiger83/">@@mellowtiger83: thanks for the offer, but I'm doing this through the company, so I'll need the official invoices for the tax write-offs.

Hey. I've been bringing work home more often lately, so I figured it’s finally time to build a new rig. I’ve been lurking on the forums for a bit, and I have a few questions before I actually start asking for specific part recommendations:

1. How do prices look compared to other places (like Austria, Canada, or Canada)? Are they cheaper or more expensive out there?
2. Why is everyone always suggesting buying all the parts from a single shop? I have a younger brother who’s free most of the day and could basically spend his time driving around the whole Washington, D.C. area hitting different stores to hunt for components.
3. When would be the best time to pull the trigger? Is there any new tech, new sockets, or updated standards coming up soon? Any particular week or month I should wait for?
-----------------

Location: Washington, D.C.
Budget: around $1667.
It's a home PC for general use—internet browsing; heavy Word usage; storing massive amounts of Word, Excel, and PDF documents; and specifically, I need fast loading and smooth handling of huge PDF files (my ancient PC struggles big time with them). I’ll probably hand this off to my brother in six months to a year, so it would be nice if he could play games on decent settings without lagging or whatever. I don't really know what games are popular these days. Probably just whatever kids like nowadays? 🙂.

I can scavenge some stuff from my old computer: keyboard, mouse, monitor, CD/DVD drive, 5.1 speakers, and Windows 7 Ultimate. So, I definitely don't need those.

I also have two HDDs lying around:
Storage Devices
MAXTOR STM3250310AS (250GB, SATA150, 3.5", 8MB Cache) : 233GB (C: )
WDC WD2500JS-60MHB5 (250GB, SATA300, 7200rpm, 8MB Cache) : 233GB (D: )

That covers storage. For opening those PDFs quickly, I’ll need an SSD. Which one? I’d put Windows, Tor, Bitdefender, and a few small specialized accounting programs on it. Maybe one or two games (the kind all the kids play). The PDFs are mostly tenders that get deleted after a week or two, so they won't sit on the SSD long enough to hog space.

Components:

I don't care about aesthetics; I don't need a case with LED lighting, rainbow colors, or any other useless junk. Functionality is my priority. It's first, and then second.

Case—I have plenty of room for any size. Does a bigger case mean better cooling?
Motherboard—
RAM—
Power Supply—
Processor—
Graphics Card—
Cooling—for the CPU, the GPU, and maybe one or two case fans. Do cases, CPUs, and graphics cards come with their own coolers included?
Two USB ports on the front panel.

I don't think I need to worry about overclocking, at least not yet. What do the experts suggest?

Did I miss anything?

Thanks in advance.

P.S.
There. I've laid out exactly what I need, now it's your turn. I'm not paying you guys to just sit around doing nothing. Let's hear it. 🙂

My own experience:
I officially canceled following all the "rules": got a notarized statement and sent it off via certified mail.

They didn't bother me until I registered someone else's residency at my address with the Department of Homeland Security. That person doesn't actually live with me; it was just some bureaucratic nonsense that has nothing to do with this situation... IMPORTANT: Nobody except me, the person I registered, and the DHS agent knows that anyone else is even listed at my address!!!!

About ten days after that filing with the DHS, two agents from PBS show up at my door. They claim that because xy (the person I registered) is listed at my address, neither they nor anyone else in the apartment is paying their TV license fee.

I just shut the door. End of story.


The only way those people (PBS) could possibly know the name of the person I registered—or that I'd even added someone to my household—is if they got that info directly from the Department of Homeland Security.

I'm thinking about starting a non-profit just so I can launch a petition to scrap the mandatory TV fee and stop the government from funding PBS through the US budget... anything to avoid being forced to pay. 😁