Because the X1950 actually outperforms those three other options. 😁
I previously mentioned that you should only consider picking up an X1950 if your budget is extremely tight and you simply can't swing something more powerful, such as an X3850 or an X4670.
If you want my honest opinion on what actually works best for a 17" monitor, I wouldn't dream of suggesting something like a 9600GT or any of those similar cards right now 🙄 . Instead, why not look at an x1950pro—which should run you about $150—or perhaps a 4670 for roughly 600? To go along with that, an EVGA 400W would be perfect for about $100 . I truly struggle to wrap my head around these kinds of 🤷 .
If you're working with a tight budget, you might want to consider picking up an x1950pro paired with a 400W Fortron unit. Just keep in mind that upgrading to a brand-new power supply is absolutely non-negotiable; unless, of course, you're looking to risk a total system failure that takes out your motherboard or hard drive along with it.
When you find yourself unable to boot into Windows or if you're struggling to get a specific benchmark to run stably, that’s usually the moment when you need to start adjusting the voltage.
So, what are we looking at here? Is it even possible to pick up a motherboard and a processor with that amount? But honestly, even then, it doesn't really get us anywhere, does it? 😛 He’s realistically going to need somewhere in the neighborhood of $2,000 to $2,500.
You could certainly try installing an X1950, but... I have a feeling the power supply won't be able to handle the load, and honestly, isn't that processor just going to bottleneck such a powerful graphics card?
Don't let it get to you; a 128-bit bus is actually more than enough compared to something like an old Radeon X1950 . Honestly, when you're just running a 17-inch monitor, you really don't need anything more powerful than that anyway.👍
Did you maybe go a bit heavy on the thermal paste, or perhaps the cooler isn't seated quite right? Give it another shot; I personally went through about ten different iterations of applying and reapplying before I finally nailed the perfect ratio.
For me, running a full load on Prime95 keeps things around 65°C, while Orthofix doesn't even push the temps nearly as high.
Is 2.4GHz really not enough for Call of Duty 4? Why on earth would you give him that little... I’d suggest setting it back to stock and just dropping the voltage by 0.1v.
If you aren't able to successfully boot into Windows, then you've likely pushed your overclocking just a bit too far.😁 At that point, you’ll need to start adjusting your Vcore, Vdimm, and various other voltage settings to find that sweet spot.😁
Provided that your temperatures are looking good, you should feel free to push further. However, if they're already creeping up a little high, it might be worth investing in some extra cooling solutions.
For your graphics card, you can handle the overclocking using tools like RivaTuner, ATI Tool, or similar software. If you're still running the stock cooler on an X1950GT, would it be a good idea to swap it out for an S1? I certainly think so; it should keep those temperatures remarkably low.
Well, if you don't quite know your way around the BIOS yet, there isn't much else to be done!😂
The multiplier isn't actually the issue here; we're looking at 7!
Hmm, the P5B should be able to push past that 333 FSB, and honestly, it should hit 400 without breaking a sweat. Why not try bumping up the NB voltage? Moving from 1.25 to 1.40 might just be the stability boost you need.
Well, we can't really settle this debate without some actual data, can we? First, you'll need to go ahead and pick up the machine so we can see exactly which processor, motherboard, and RAM we're dealing with here.
1000MHz at CL3? I have to wonder, what kind of memory module are we even talking about here, and more importantly, which specific chips are being used? Personally, I’ve managed to push 1066MHz at CL4 while running at 2.3V, and that was using some pretty high-quality silicon (d9gkx).