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Posts by Laura Richardson11

48 posts shown.

Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Timothy Kim60 said:So what am I even looking at here with this ATX unit? Is this really such a bottom-tier brand? This PC wasn't exactly cheap when I bought it back in the day.
If it claims 400W—and let's be real, it's an old unit—what can it actually handle? Can it pull 330W? Maybe 300?

We're talking about LC (manufactured by Deer)... basically, by today's standards, you couldn't find anything more subpar or low-quality than this.

Sure, the total wattage might technically hover above 300W, but the voltage stability at that level? It's criminal. As for safety protections in the event of a hardware failure? Nonexistent.

To put it bluntly, they sold you the absolute lowest quality component available while building your rig. Before you even think about upgrading any other parts, swap that power supply out immediately. Even their competitor, LC Power, sits a tier above this junk.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
The XFX 450 w is actually quite a solid unit. It’s more than enough juice for the build mentioned above, which will rarely even touch the 300W mark, even when you're pushing high clock speeds and putting the system through its paces.

By the way, the testing conditions used on that website are mostly unrealistic. Because of that, the results are pretty much useless for anyone living in the real world.

The Seasonic component inside that XFX 450 w is more than capable of powering much beefier and more demanding setups than what we're looking at here.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
mistymason72 said:Hey everyone, I’m looking for some advice from the veterans here on a bit of a dilemma.

Option 1: Mushkin Enhanced Volta 500 W - price $100

Option 2: XFX Core edition 80 550 w - featuring EasyRail technology $164

I’m assuming the second one is higher quality, but is it worth the extra cash? $67 How much does it actually cost to upgrade if the Mushkin can handle it?

The build I'm looking at is:

Intel Corei5 2500 k AsRock

AsRock Z68 gen3

8 GB DDR3

Seagate Barracuda 750 GB

GPU 1: AMD Radeon 6870 GPU 2

GPU 2: Nvidia 9800 GT (for PhysX support)

Let me know if you need more details. Honestly, if that first Mushkin unit won't blow up my system, I'd rather save the money $67 for something else. Also, if neither of these is a good choice, any recommendations under $167 would be appreciated...

Thanks

I’m actually looking at that Mushkin right now... those two power supplies aren't even in the same league. There is a very good reason for the difference in $67.

In other words—go with the XFX.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
You could honestly argue that CX and Mushkin are basically in the same league, though Corsair manages to squeeze out a higher price tag just because their name carries more weight at the register.

When you actually put the CX v2 up against the original version, the gap isn't nearly as wide as people like to claim. One of the main reasons for the update was simply to slap that white 80 Plus badge on it, nothing more.🙂
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
darkowl72 said:So, let’s actually look at the numbers here. How are we supposed to compare a Seasonic unit—which claims 520W on the +12V rail but delivers 40A, or 480W—against an LC model that consistently chokes out at just 370W during testing? We're talking about a massive 110W deficit compared to the Seasonic, even if they are only separated by a measly 2A. Does anyone actually think that's a fair fight? 😁)...?

A Seasonic unit absolutely lives up to its word. It delivers exactly what it promises on the box. Why settle for anything less?

I’ve been thinking about this situation lately, and frankly, I can't help but wonder where it all went wrong. We see it happen all the time in the tech world, don't we? Someone thinks they’ve found a shortcut, a way to bypass the standard rules of hardware stability, only to realize they've built their house on sand. It starts with a simple idea: "I have this power supply, it looks fine, why shouldn't I push it?" But then you start adding components. You plug in an Nvidia GTX 460 OC. Suddenly, that old, reliable unit isn't looking so reliable anymore. Is it worth the risk? Does anyone actually believe that cutting corners on power delivery is a smart move when you're trying to run high-end gear? We've seen these scenarios play out from Seattle to Miami. A user grabs a budget unit—maybe even something like an xfx450W or an old Chieftec 450 W. uzeti—thinking it'll handle the load. Then comes the moment of truth. The system hangs. The screen goes black. The silence that follows is deafening. Why do we do this to ourselves? Why do we ignore the warnings written in every enthusiast forum from New York to Los Angeles? It’s almost like watching someone try to tow a massive trailer with a compact sedan and acting surprised when the transmission shreds itself on the interstate. In the end, it's a lesson learned the hard way. If you want stability, you pay for it. If you want to gamble with your hardware, well, don't come crying to me when the smoke starts rising. Isn't that just the way it goes?

In this class of power supplies, the components responsible for the 12V rail—located on the secondary side—are mostly just "optimistic" when it comes to their rated specs.

I haven't personally messed around with the 650W version of the LC Power GP3 series, but that’s exactly why I decided to take a closer look at the 560W model instead. 🙂

When you look at the actual power delivery—specifically that secondary 12V rail—the difference between a 520W Seasonic and a 560W LC isn't just about the wattage on the box. It comes down to one key component. Or rather, it’s how they're built. The Seasonic actually hides three 30A rectifier elements inside. That would give you a theoretical output of 1080W. Makes you wonder why anyone bothers with the smaller numbers, doesn't it?

On the other hand, this 560W LC unit features two 30A elements dedicated to the 12V rail. That means we're looking at a theoretical 720W on that single rail. Makes sense, doesn't it?

If the 12V rail on both these power supplies relied solely on that specific component, we’d be looking at a fixed power ratio. But reality isn't that simple, is it? In practice, you have to account for things like inductor robustness and the quality of the secondary capacitors—which, to be fair, aren't actually bad in the LC Power GP3 series. Then there are the protective limits, like those automatic shut-offs when you overdraw. It changes the math entirely.

Of course, the question remains: are they both just throwing all that power straight into the wind?

Of course not. But let's be realistic: there are specific quality standards for corrected 12V voltage that they actually have to meet. Then you've got the safety regulations—protections, limits, and all that—not to mention the estimated lifespan a manufacturer targets when they put a power rating on the box. Do they really think they can just ignore those?

So, looking at LC Power, it seems their OEM strategy is pretty transparent. Wouldn't it be easier to just slash those warranty claim rates by being sneaky? They basically just declare a much lower power output on the 12V rail to keep things within "safe" limits. Why bother delivering what's promised when you can just limit the specs and call it a day?

With their track record and the sheer quality of the components they pack in, Seasonic can easily guarantee that this unit will actually deliver those 480W on the 12V rail. It’s a legitimate claim to make, sure—but of course, they decided to charge us a premium for the privilege.$177 vs. $130 (In the event that we end up dealing with LC).

Manufacturer policies are so incredibly convoluted you could practically write a textbook on them, and somehow still miss the most important details. But look, here’s my take: I’d much rather be pleasantly surprised by a power supply that over-delivers on its specs than deal with one that falls short and fries my entire rig while trying to hit its rated wattage. It's about reliability, isn't it? And honestly, LC has made a massive leap forward with their GP3 series.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
darkowl72 said:With LC, the amperage isn't even the main issue; it's the fact that they deliver incredibly low wattage on the 12V rail...

Wow... if any electrical engineering professor heard that, they'd be sent straight to summer school for failing basic Ohm's Law.😁

The 12V voltage is (ideally speaking) a constant in computers, while the current fluctuates proportionally based on the load—you know, the power draw.

In other words, amperage and wattage (it doesn't matter how you phrase it) are perfectly proportional. (POWER = VOLTAGE * CURRENT).

http://traficantesdehardware.com/ima...23/img/006.jpg

Look, out of the declared 650W, this thing barely delivers over half on the 12V rail combined... maybe 368W at most... 😱 If that's even true, then their "650W" claim is an absolute joke.

This should have been labeled as a 400W or 450W unit, and then there wouldn't be an issue.

Now... since they tested these LC Power GP3 units—specifically the 460W model paired with an overclocked i7 and dual HD4870x2 cards under full load—we all know that combo eats a massive amount of 12V power. To put it mildly, these power supplies are wildly underspecified when it comes to their rated 12V rail.

As the old saying goes: just because it's written on the box doesn't mean it's true.😁
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Morgan Moore37 said:Those idiots? You’ve got to be kidding me. I basically just said goodbye to them because they actually think they’ve mastered everything under the sun, when in reality, they aren't worth a lick of sense.

Just a heads-up: most of the people giving advice here (including the moderators) actually hang out over there too. They’re posting advice on both sites. So, those "idiots" you're talking about? They’re actually right here... "idiots" as well. 😁

Every time I start a thread, this guy wipes it out. I repost it, and he does it again. He doesn't explain why, and he certainly doesn't point out where the mistake is. When you ask him what the hell he's doing or why he keeps deleting stuff, all he does is drop a link to the rules and leave you to guess where you messed up.

Is it really that hard to say, "Hey, fix the title," or "Fix the content," or even just "This part isn't okay"? Instead, he just drops a link and leaves you to figure it out yourself.

The moderator has dozens of these issues to deal with daily—it's part of the job. Where would he end up if he had to hold everyone's hand and personally explain every single rule line by line? Just for context, there are over 4,000 active "idiots" over there, with a total membership of more than 30,000 "idiots."

I hope that doesn't happen, otherwise this forum is going on a blacklist too.

Your little blacklist doesn't mean a thing to them. But their ban? That’ll sting you for a week, a month, or forever, depending on how much of an idiot you decide to be. 🙂
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
That tiny 1-2% difference doesn't mean much to the average user—and let’s be clear, an efficient power supply isn't automatically a high-quality one—but still, it feels like a blatant attempt to mislead the general public. :/

For instance, look at how Chieftec just cooked up their own little certificate 😁

image
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
boldcanyon14 said:At least it has an 80+ certification. 😁

That actually piqued my interest, so I decided to go take a look at the 80 Plus website... but nope, it’s nowhere to be found. 😕

So, you do a quick little Google search and—presto!—a review pops up on newegg.com. PCForum

Scroll down to the efficiency test and you'll stumble upon a little something interesting:

image

At first glance, everything looks fine here, but there’s a catch. Since Sweden uses a 230V grid while the 80 Plus certification is typically tested using 115V—the standard for the US market—the whole situation becomes pretty obvious immediately.

There’s a very simple reason why this power supply isn't on the 80 PLUS list... it simply doesn't deserve the certification.

Why?

Efficiency at 115V runs about 2% lower than at 230V. What does that mean for the Fortron (FSP400-60APN) numbers regarding the 80 PLUS standard? At 115V, you should expect them to look roughly like this:

image

Honestly, you can't trust anyone anymore. Not one single soul. 🙄
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Joshua Garcia3 said:What’s wrong with the Fortron 400W? It does its job perfectly fine. 🙂

It’s roughly the same quality as the CX430—maybe even a tiny bit better 😁... they changed quite a few things compared to the PNF version, though "changed" is just a polite way of saying they cut corners on manufacturing.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Just a quick heads-up: those numbers Zachary Wilson30 posted in the link above represent the AC draw from the wall. Since the power supply itself delivers about 15% less power to the actual components, you’ll need to multiply them by roughly 0.85 to figure out the true DC consumption.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Oh, so that's how we're playing it...

I’ll give you my resume, then you can decide for yourself just how qualified I am to be giving advice.

I've been working in electrical engineering for about 17 years now. I graduated from one of the most rigorous technical high schools in Washington, D.C., and breezed through electrical engineering courses at two different universities—with a third one in the works.

I have built a mountain of amplifiers, rectifier circuits, oscillators, filters, and testing equipment. Honestly, I've had countless AC/DC power supplies pass through my hands.

I've written enough seminars, scientific papers, and electronic circuit exercises to probably fill an entire spindle of DVDs.

One look inside almost any power supply, and I can tell you pretty much exactly what its output capabilities are.

Personally, I feel like I've only mastered about 10% of what there is to learn about power supplies.

So, how much do you think you actually know?
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Good grief, I don't think I've encountered this much misinformation in years 😁

It’s pretty clear you're just making things up as you go without any actual experience... please, just step away from the keyboard 😉
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
A decent 400W power supply—one actually built with quality components—will handle a Core i7 paired with a GTX 460 without breaking a sweat. That’s a pretty serious upgrade considering they're currently stuck with 🙂
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Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
I’ve been running an identical setup with a 380W power supply, and it’s worked flawlessly for nearly two years now. I can tell you from experience—and I've seen plenty of others do it too—that people regularly push much more demanding rigs on power supplies in that ~400W range without a single hiccup.

This isn't just my opinion; it's a matter of fact.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Morgan Moore37 Asks:
Someone up there claims this is a 100W build? Honestly, I can't help but laugh. Sure, maybe everything has been stripped down to the bare essentials, but that doesn't mean power consumption drops. If anything, it’s the opposite. Components are getting more powerful by the day, and power draw scales directly with voltage and current. It's just basic physics.

Look, just get something more powerful. Don't listen to those guys claiming you can slap a 1.6L engine into a Mustang chassis and expect it to hold up. Seriously? You think that’s going to work?

Look, you’re famous for suggesting a thousand-watt power supply for a build like this, but some users actually possess something called a power meter. They have similar rigs sitting right in front of them, so a manual measurement carries a lot more weight than your sarcasm. 😉

Look, I already told you: this is a 100W build. And honestly? I couldn't care less what you think about it. 😁
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Everyone keeps pushing that Corsair unit because they mistakenly think it’s actually a high-end model, but it really isn't. 🙂

The EVGA series is a significantly better choice than that underpowered Corsair.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
driftingpilot8 said:Hey there.
I'm putting a PC together, and the power supply is the last thing on my list.

I've got a mini ATX motherboard,
an AMD Athlon II 245 processor,
a basic GPU,
two hard drives,
and 2 sticks of RAM.
No dedicated graphics card yet, just integrated.

How much wattage do I actually need?

This build is pulling maybe 100W under a normal load, so... honestly, anything on this list will work fine. Even if you decide to slap in some budget graphics card worth about $150 later on.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
It’s not the power supply, because if it were, you wouldn't be able to get it running anywhere.

It was probably slapped together too quickly, and maybe a connector isn't seated quite right, or just didn't click in all the way—and then you end up with these massive headaches.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
Anthony Ramos6 said:Is the power supply going to be loud?

The GPU and the CPU cooler are going to be much louder, and honestly, you might even hear the case fans.