After giving it quite a bit of thought, I find myself leaning more and more toward getting a monochrome laser printer rather than an inkjet.
There are several reasons for this; we don't have a frequent need to print, yet I still want to have something on hand to print out documents, spreadsheets, theater tickets, and things of that nature. Because of that, I really don't want to drop over $100 on a machine. If I ever truly find myself needing color printing, I think I can just afford to head to a local FedEx Office or Staples, since it’s realistically such a rare occurrence.
I've spent a good amount of time reading through various forums, looking at other people's experiences and opinions, and I've come to the conclusion that the biggest advantage of a laser printer is its reliability during downtime. I could leave it sitting for weeks—even a month without turning it on once—and it would still work perfectly. With an inkjet, there is always that looming risk of the print heads clogging up. Then there is the issue of expensive ink (though I am aware of third-party options; I used them personally on an old Canon printer in the past), but I honestly don't know if I have the patience to deal with all that. If something fails because of some off-brand ink, everything goes completely south, and I'll end up losing my cool and shouting profanities at the machine, which is something I'd prefer to avoid...
So now, I would love to hear from anyone who has experience using Brother laser printers so they might share their review or opinion before I make the purchase.
I have decided on this HP LaserJet model for a few specific reasons: first, the price is quite reasonable at around $250, second, the cost of an original toner cartridge is $60 (for 1,500 pages), the drum unit is $67 (rated for 10,000 pages), it features WiFi capability which is a nice bonus, the DPI is 2400x600 which I believe is sufficient (I wasn't looking for anything as low as 600x600), and finally, it comes with a 3-year warranty.
I also looked at the Xerox Phaser 3052, which is priced similarly, but the original toners are a bit more expensive ($163 for 3,000 pages), and frankly, I find the Brother to be much more aesthetically pleasing.
Thank you in advance for any advice you can offer...
I originally kicked off this thread back in November 2013 while hunting for a reliable mouse, and I can’t believe it’s been nearly five years since then. I’ve been using my Logitech M705 through it all, and looking back, I realized I actually haven't swapped out the batteries once since January 2016. Even today, the mouse is performing flawlessly without a single hiccup. I just checked the status, and it says I still have 45% power left, which means I've only used about 65% of my Duracell batteries over the last two years and eight months.
I haven't gone through a huge collection of peripherals; I'm certainly not a "hardcore gamer" looking for high-spec gear, nor is my profession one where a mouse is a critical piece of equipment. I'm just your average everyday computer user. After almost five years of heavy, daily use, I can honestly say I am beyond satisfied with this device. If you have the chance to pick one up, I would recommend it to anyone without hesitation, especially since I see it's priced around $110 at several retailers.
So, if you don't mind spending a little extra for quality, I give it a very warm recommendation 👍
@crimsonfox20, I have to agree with you there. I haven't run into those specific issues on my end; I’m sorry you're dealing with that, but I suppose it is what it is. I truly believe there are better mice out there—just like there are better versions of just about everything—so it really comes down to the price point and how much someone is willing to invest. Personally, I was desperate to go wireless because I couldn't stand fighting with the cable constantly, so switching to this mouse actually solved that headache for me.
So, I’ve been using my Logitech M705 for quite some time now—it'll actually hit the four-year mark this coming November—and I honestly couldn't be happier with it. Of course, everyone has their own preferences, and what works for me might not work for someone else... 😉 I noticed they’re still selling it, and the resale value seems to hold up pretty well too. For what you're looking to do, slyrider20, this mouse should be more than sufficient. As for the battery life, I haven't had to mess with it much; if I recall correctly, I only swapped it out early last year, which is when I made my original post.
Even though it’s wireless, I haven't experienced any noticeable lag at all. I really think Logitech does an outstanding job with their connectivity. All in all, I’d highly recommend this one, or honestly, just any Logitech product...
slyrider20 said:I did a quick search through this thread so I wouldn't have to start a brand new one. I am looking for some recommendations for a solid wireless mouse. Ideally, I need something larger and more ergonomic; I’ve been using those tiny little travel mice with my laptop for years now, and my hand is honestly starting to ache from it. Also, if you could suggest a reliable website where I can order one online at a decent price, I would appreciate it. 🙂
Aside from the size, you haven't really specified anything else. Are you looking for wired or wireless? What kind of budget are we talking about here? And is this for heavy gaming or just standard daily use?
Look, I don't even use a mousepad, and honestly, that was one of my main requirements when I was shopping around. My setup is just a plain 2.5 cm thick piece of particle board—I had some leftover from when I was building my bed frame—and it works perfectly. Sometimes I’ll even use it on my mattress, specifically on the sheet, and I still don't run into any issues. Either you're being a bit difficult 🙂 or there might actually be something wrong with the mouse itself... (just kidding about the being difficult part). Or perhaps you just need some time to get used to it; there's really no other way than to let time take its course, and if you're still unhappy, just sell it on eBay.
Regarding the packaging issue, I always try to open mine with a utility knife, starting from the bottom for those exact reasons. I can't wrap my head around how anyone would open it any other way without cutting through it or something similar. Plus, why shouldn't you, as a customer, be allowed to be dissatisfied with a product and want to return it!? I really don't understand their policy on that.
@crimsonfox20/">@@crimsonfox20... Is it possible you just aren't feeling this mouse? To be honest, I didn't even notice if the laser was off-center or not; it hasn't caused me any issues at all when it comes to aiming or general positioning during my work. If you're using it for something that demands extreme precision and speed—I don't know, maybe some competitive gaming—then there's a chance this specific model just isn't the right fit for you. Have you tried installing the Logitech software for your keyboard and mouse yet? There are additional settings in there that might help fine-tune the mouse to your liking (maybe, I'm not making any promises here).
Regarding returning it to iTunes, I'm not sure why they wouldn't let you return a product you aren't happy with. Here is an email address (support@itunes.com) where you can reach out politely. Just explain that the store told you a refund wasn't possible even though you're dissatisfied, mention that this is already the first time you've sent the mouse in for service, and clarify that it simply isn't performing for its intended purpose and just isn't working for you...
I'm just not sure if you bought it online or walked into the physical store (since online orders usually have a 14-day window, and it sounds like it's only been about 8 days).
I figured I’d jump in here and share my experience since picking up the Logitech M705. It’s been about two years and two months now, and honestly? It’s been an absolute steal. I actually just had to swap out the batteries for the first time the other day—it’s been running on a single pair of Duracell batteries for two whole years (though, if I'm being honest, I might have forgotten to change them sooner than I thought, so maybe one set lasted me at least a year)... regardless, I am beyond satisfied with it. For anyone wondering if it's worth spending $100 (looking at what the price is today), you won't regret a single cent of your investment.
Just wanted to check in and let you know that I picked up the Logitech M705. For now, I can only say that I am quite satisfied, though I think it would be more responsible to wait a bit longer before offering a truly relevant opinion once I've put it through its paces. The ergonomics are great, and that fast scroll feature is absolutely fantastic—that was actually the main reason I opted for the M705 over the M510, aside from a slight price difference. While they claim the M705 can run on a single set of batteries for about three years compared to two years for the M510, I personally don't see that as a major deciding factor; even if they only lasted half as long as advertised, I'd still be happy with them...
Those extra thumb buttons feel very natural under my hand, and the mouse glides smoothly across the desk, even without a mousepad. It feels precise, too. I just need a little more time to get used to the layout since I'm switching over from a somewhat different model, but that’s really all there is to it... it’s a solid mouse, plain and simple.
Nobody's saying anything... 😢 High-quality wired options would work just fine too, though I'd prefer something with a laser sensor—I don't use a mousepad since I prefer my mouse directly on the desk, and honestly, having one there just gets in my way...
I’ve been searching through the forums, but I’m having a hard time finding recent posts. Technology moves so fast, and mice seem to get more advanced with every passing year...
To give you some context, my experience with wireless mice goes all the way back to 1998. Since then, I’ve stuck exclusively to wired models. Back then, wireless was just a nightmare; after about six months, the batteries would drain incredibly fast—even the rechargeable ones—and you’d end up with a cursor that just drifted aimlessly across the screen.
Up until now (and currently), I’ve been using a Logitech wired RX1000, and I have to say I was perfectly happy with it until about four months ago. It started acting up on me—for instance, I can't drag a browser window from one side of the screen to the other because it loses connection, or a single click suddenly registers as a double click. It’s become so frustrating that I’ve reached the point where I simply have to buy a new mouse.
I actually took the mouse apart to clean it, making sure everything was still in its proper place. Aside from the switch itself, I don't see any obvious culprit for the issue, and I definitely haven't dropped it or anything like that... So, why go wireless? To be honest, it isn't a strict necessity, but I’ve noticed over the years that having a cord can be a bit of a nuisance, so switching to wireless would solve that particular headache.
I’d like to ask those of you with significant experience using wireless mice to please offer some advice on what to buy—or more importantly, what NOT to buy. Is there a real difference between wireless and Bluetooth? I'm looking for something with solid battery life; I'm not sure if they use Li-ion nowadays or if there's another type of battery that performs better.
I’ve seen models that charge via USB, allowing you to keep using them while they juice up. That sounds ideal to me, as I don't want to find myself needing to work only to realize the mouse is dead and needs to be plugged in...
And yes, provided the price isn't absolutely ridiculous 😁... I'm not a gamer, so I don't need anything flashy. I just want a reliable, high-quality wireless mouse without an overwhelming amount of buttons—though having dedicated "back" and "forward" buttons would be a nice touch.
@Opaki, I just received a notice in the mail regarding a wage garnishment for the specified amount; it outlines everything—the reasoning, the specifics, all of it. The document itself states that I have the right to file a formal response or lodge an appeal within the designated timeframe. Of course, since I wanted to get this settled as quickly as possible, I decided to head down to the courthouse in person. As for why the post office only sent me the final decision now, the explanation provided was that "allegedly," the mail carrier attempted to deliver a warning letter twice earlier this year. They claimed to have left a notice—you know, those yellow slips—but apparently, I never showed up to collect my mail. To be clear, there are absolutely no issues with my residency. There are five adults and one child living in this house, and I have a perfectly functional, locked mailbox. However, in the past, the carrier would sometimes just clip these notices to the door where the wind could easily blow them away, or perhaps they simply marked it as delivered when they hadn't actually checked. There are plenty of possibilities for what happened, but my reality is simple: I had no idea any of this was happening. How was I supposed to know they were sending documents or that I needed to pick something up? Regardless, they certainly moved fast on this. Whether or not the different departments are properly coordinated isn't really my concern, because at the end of the day, we are the ones footing the bill for their negligence or whatever you want to call it. Regarding the garnishment order, which is typically sent to both me and my employer, they still haven't forwarded the copy intended for my company. I'm not sure if they were waiting to see if I would file an appeal or if I would show up in person, but she only attached those stamped bank transactions to the decision because she needs them to void the garnishment order I received.
So, now I am just waiting for either a call or a notification stating whether I will ultimately have to pay that $67 or if this will all just go away. I am truly hoping for the latter, so I can finally take this off my plate...
Today I visited the local county clerk's office to hand over my payment receipts, and even though I had already settled everything, I still had to trek down to my bank just to demand they stamp and sign my transaction records. The tellers there gave me such a bewildered look, insisting that the digital receipt should be more than sufficient without any physical stamps, but eventually, they complied...
To get to the heart of whose fault this actually is, the response from the clerk was essentially this: "We have no way of verifying if you paid the municipal court directly, and since they haven't sent us confirmation of your payment, we can't see it on our end. You really should have brought the original slips to show us that it was paid to the specific account number they use." In other words, the funds were supposed to hit their specific operating account... So, I countered by saying, "Excuse me, ma'am, how am I supposed to pay into an account number I'm seeing for the first time today? These official forms clearly list one account, not the one you're mentioning now. Am I expected to just intuitively know your internal banking details?" When I asked why I was required to bring these slips in for manual inspection—considering nothing in the court order or any legal notice mentioned such a requirement—she simply replied, "Well, we've had similar issues before, so we just do it this way. I don't know what else to tell you."
Then, almost as I was walking out of the room, she suddenly mentions she isn't sure what to do about the $67 processing fee that was supposed to be paid alongside the fine to cover collection costs!?!?!
I just stared at her, completely stunned, and asked, "Now you tell me who the irrational one is here. I am not responsible for your systemic errors or your lack of an integrated database, yet somehow I am being held liable for these collection fees." She then informed me that she would consult with her supervisor tomorrow to see if they could waive it, but if not, I would be forced to pay regardless. UNBELIEVABLE!!!
I also felt compelled to ask why I hadn't received a single warning or courtesy notice before they showed up with a formal judgment. To that, she claimed they had mailed everything to my house, but the mail was returned to sender. She even pulled out an envelope showing that the USPS carrier had left two notices claiming I wasn't home to receive the mail... I told her straight up that I never saw a single notice, especially since I receive all my other mail without issue. It makes zero sense to suggest I was ignoring them; if I were trying to dodge a fine, it wouldn't make any sense to pay it two months late instead of just handling it immediately when it first arrived...
So now I am turning to you all for advice: what should I do if this lady calls me tomorrow and says they are mailing a bill for those fees to my house, regardless of whether they voided the actual fine? (Technically, they haven't even sent the notice to my employer yet, as I picked up my mail from the office on Friday afternoon). How does one resolve this kind of bureaucratic nightmare where citizens are essentially being extorted due to someone else's negligence or incompetence???
Any guidance at all would be greatly appreciated, as I find myself navigating this mess for the very first time in my 38 years...
Thanks @John Clark6 for clarifying; I follow your logic. I was really just asking rhetorically because if someone wants something specific, they pay the required fees under the regulations. My question stems from a sense of fairness: if someone isn't at fault—for instance, if they can prove an error occurred, much like in my own situation—shouldn't the party responsible for that oversight be the one to issue a refund?
I realize that in practice, it probably won't ever happen, but we've all been charged for so many ridiculous things in this country that there isn't much more to say about it...😉
Hello, I received a letter in the mail this past Friday from the Department of the Treasury notifying me that they have issued a wage garnishment against my employer for the amount of $733. Apparently, this is due to an unpaid traffic fine dating all the way back to 2011. (From the moment I settled that fine until now, I haven't received a single notice or anything similar suggesting I owed money... was I actually supposed to be notified?)
The thing is, I paid that specific fine through my online banking portal rather than using those paper payment slips they sent out, but as far as I am aware, that shouldn't matter since it wasn't my first time paying via digital transfer—in fact, that is how I handle all my payments now.
I still have the original transaction records where I noted the payment date and the transaction ID number.
My question is, would it be helpful to visit a local IRS field office first to figure out why this happened, or should I skip that and just file a formal appeal? I can attach my evidence (a full printout of the complete transaction from my online banking) along with a written statement explaining that I am appealing because the debt has already been satisfied.
Also, what is the deal with the $17 fee required to file an appeal? Am I entitled to a refund for these funds that I am being forced to spend when I am clearly not at fault? (I’m not talking about $17 specifically, but more about the principle of the matter.) Furthermore, what should I do if the garnishment reaches my employer before the order is rescinded? If they deduct it from my paycheck, my net pay will naturally decrease, which puts me in a precarious position where I'll have to cover a deficit I simply don't have right now. Unfortunately, we have been living solely on my income for the last year since my wife's company went under 😢...
Go ahead and right-click on My Computer, then select Manage > Disk Management to see if the drive shows up there. If it does, you can go ahead and format the disk using the NTFS file system. You could also create partitions, but since you mentioned this is just for backups, that probably isn't necessary...
First off, does your computer actually have a USB3 port available? If it doesn't, you might need to pick up a dedicated expansion card to plug into your motherboard—though, as those with a bit more technical experience know, you have to make sure your motherboard is actually compatible with that kind of upgrade. It’s pretty easy to figure out, though; just check which motherboard you're running and ask at a place like Best Buy (or just post the model here).
If your motherboard already supports USB3, then all you need to do is buy an external enclosure for your new 3.5" HDD that features a USB3 interface. Just keep in mind that most of these external enclosures come with their own dedicated power supply and wall adapter to plug into a standard outlet. As for actually installing the HDD into the enclosure, it’s really not a headache. The kit usually includes all the necessary screws for assembly, along with the internal connector that plugs directly into the drive. You won't be able to get it wrong as long as you ensure the enclosure is specifically designed for the exact HDD you purchased... so just double-check the specs before buying.
Everything I've mentioned applies to getting a new external HDD enclosure... for example, something like this > http://www.futura-it.com/product.asp...ID = US-GD-25633 which houses the HDD
P.S.—I was checking the warranty details for Seagate through a local distributor, and while their main site mentions a 12-month term as of early 2012, this specific link suggests a 2-year coverage. My advice? Always aim for the HDD with the longest possible warranty period...
It isn't that anyone is ignoring you... it's just that, honestly, you can find the answer to your question or dilemma right here in this thread... it really just comes down to what you want in the end
I think the real choice is whether you want a finished, all-in-one product or if you’d rather build it yourself (using an external enclosure plus a 3.5" HDD). The big advantage of building your own is that you can swap in any internal HDD into that same external enclosure later on—whether you want more capacity or need to replace a drive if, heaven forbid, one fails... and so on Since you mentioned you won't be moving it around too much, that's another point in favor of getting a separate enclosure and a separate HDD
As for those pre-built external HDDs, they tend to be a bit pricier. Plus, they often have slower speeds, typically running at 5400 RPM compared to 7200 RPM, which ultimately means slower transfer speeds. However, if your motherboard has USB3 and you pick up an enclosure with USB3, you won't have any bottlenecking issues (just make sure to grab a USB3 cable to connect the drive to your PC, unless one comes included with the enclosure) Try to look for the longest warranty possible; I personally feel that the length of the warranty says something about the quality, even if that isn't always strictly true...
Now, as for which specific drive to buy... man, I wish I could help. I was in the exact same boat when I was searching for advice... it's a personal decision based on what you choose, but my suggestion is to Google something like "top 10 3.5 inch HDDs" or something similar, and then base your decision on the reviews and opinions you find online
I previously had a Seagate HDD 1 TB that I actually had to send back under warranty because it started failing, and they replaced it for me. The other drive I have inside my computer is a WD 640GB, and it's been running perfectly for at least four years now... and recently, I picked up an external ADATA 1TB 2.5" drive, and so far, so good after five months... only time will tell
I decided to pick up an Adata 2.5" NH13 1TB drive today... I grabbed it from Accenture for $239, which includes a 36-month warranty. It has a very sleek design, though my one minor gripe is that the included cable is a bit short. Luckily, I have an 80cm USB extension cable lying around, so that solves the problem perfectly. Now, I'm just crossing my fingers that it holds up well so I don't actually have to end up using that warranty 🙂