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Posts by Arthur Anderson10

29 posts shown.

CPU recommendations? in Desktops ·
Edward Thompson86 said:I reached out today to cancel the power supply and swap it for a different model, but they already shipped the original order. I didn't expect them to process it that fast.
Since I added some other items to my cart, they'll be sending a second package soon. I'm thinking about getting a different PSU, but I'm stuck on what to do with this one.

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donate 🙂

If nobody else wants it, I'll take donations. Don't let it go to waste... 🙂
CPU recommendations? in Desktops ·
Edward Thompson86 said:Demand for the 3000 series will be massive. Supply will stay tight and prices will skyrocket, much like we're seeing right now with the 3080 and 3090. For my specific needs, this 2070 is perfectly fine.
My card from EVGA finally arrived today. It’s a beast compared to what I was using before, and I expect it to perform great.
The only catch is that it’s a bit bulky; the fans make it about a 2.5-slot card.
I’m going to hold off on the Intel Core i5 series until they launch. If the pricing stays reasonable instead of being inflated, I'll grab an Intel Core i5-12600K. Word is there might be a standard 5600 coming out early next year for around $240, which would be a total win if the rumors are true.
I mainly bought this for video editing, not gaming.
Here are some photos.
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You and the crypto miners are in the same boat.🙂
CPU recommendations? in Desktops ·
Honestly, 4K downscaled directly to 720p is your best bet regardless of the bitrate you're aiming for. You can't actually see the bitrate in VLC; just use MediaInfo, which is a free tool.

I noticed you're still sticking to those preset profiles that rely on DTS for audio.
DTS is never small. That’s where you can save space. Switch over to AAC at 96kbps and you'll shave off about 100MB per movie, maybe even more. If the end user isn't running a full surround sound setup, they won't notice a difference. DTS belongs in 4K content, not 720p. Plus, since your DTS is just stereo, nobody's going to miss anything by switching to AAC if they hook it up to a home theater system.
I don't use x265 much, so I'm not an expert on its specific bitrates. But if x264 1000 -1200 is a good sweet spot for video and 96kbps or 128kbps AAC works for audio, the x265 file could be four times smaller because the codec is four times more efficient than x264.

The screenshots you posted look great. The first one is a little blurry, but that's expected with re-encoded material. The main thing is that it doesn't turn into Lego blocks.🙂
CPU recommendations? in Desktops ·
wanderingbison9 said:You really need the full version of Adobe Premiere. It includes a new converter that supports Intel hardware...

Looking at the results from the Pro version, there is absolutely no way I am ever installing that on my machine again.🙂
CPU recommendations? in Desktops ·
I don't get it. Why use H.265 for 720p? There is absolutely no reason to convert 720p H.264 to H.265 when you could just take a 4K H.265 source, downscale it to 720p H.265, and end up with something twice as sharp and half the artifacts.
It doesn't even have to be 4K; 1080p in x264 works fine. Encoding 720p H.264 is just pointless. These days, you can encode everything in FHD or 4K. Sure, it might take 20 minutes instead of 15, but 🙂

Edward Thompson86 said:[/url]
This supports H.265.

It didn't offer that to me, and after a few minutes, it crashed right where it belongs... total junk. 🙂 HB is BEST.
I tried messing around with x264 l, but that software has zero options. Who are these preset settings actually for?
How can you encode a 23.98 UFC fight at 30fps? The native frame rate is 23.976. Or if it's an American movie at 25fps, why move it to 30 fps? That creates a massive jitter issue.
I assume there is a way to fix it, but it’s never a simple process, so people usually avoid it.

Regarding the AVATAR file—did you intentionally use Spanish audio, or did you just mess up?
Am I seeing this right? Is the audio DTS-stereo? I can't see the bitrate, but I suspect it's low.
If you want to save bandwidth, you should lower the audio too, like using AAC at 96kbps instead of DTS.
The video looks like decent old DivX, but it stutters constantly. That’s exactly what I was talking about. The film has 30fps instead of 23.98, and you can really feel that lack of fluidity.
Okay, maybe my wife doesn't notice on her screen, but my eyes hurt after watching this for a few minutes. It's incredibly blurry; you can see it yourself.

The OTE CINEMA quality is terrible. It looks like bad DivX, just a bunch of Lego blocks.🙂
I've seen handheld CAM-ov that look better than this.

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When looking at this now, it feels like old-school DivX-Xvid material rather than modern x265 code. I have a 500MB file at home—just the video—that is 2 hours long in 4K, and it looks light-years ahead of this. And it's only 500MB.

Video quality and encoding speed are on opposite ends of the spectrum. The faster you encode, the worse the quality. This SS above proves it.

Run that AVATAR or UFC clip through MediaInfo so I can see the video and audio bitrates.

I can tell you this: my 720p x264 encodes, with 1000kbps video and 96kbps audio, come out to about 470MB per hour. Compared to yours, the picture looks like 4K. If I did the same thing in x265, the file would be roughly four times smaller, around 120-150MB per hour, with identical quality.

General : Livada.mp4
Format : MPEG-4 at 1 .102 kb/s
Length : 407 MiB for 48 min 34s 507 ms
Video #0 : AVC at 1 .000 kb/s
Aspect : 1280 x 546 (2.344) at 25.000 fps
Audio #0 : AAC at 96,0 kb/s
Infos : 2 channels, 48,0 kHz

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CPU recommendations? in Desktops ·
HB uses ffmpeg under the hood. I have no idea what's running inside that VSDC software.
I downloaded the free version today and it’s an absolute disaster.
It didn't even give me the option to select an AMD GPU or the x265 codec. I'm not sure which version you all are using, but the one I grabbed was a complete wreck.

http://www.videosoftdev.com/ so I just went ahead and downloaded their video Converter.
CPU recommendations? in Desktops ·
It is impossible to have such a massive discrepancy just because you switched software.
I can tell immediately that you ran deinterlacing via Handbrake, which naturally slowed everything down.
Did you select an Nvidia GPU in Handbrake, or did you stick with the CPU? That is exactly where that huge difference in duration comes from.

To actually compare two programs, you need to use identical settings, like a fixed bitrate, rather than the CQ you are using now.
Set a maximum fixed bitrate, and all your movies will maintain consistent quality.

Handbrake is one of the best—if not the absolute best—free tools for encoding just about anything.

It looks like you prioritized speed over quality. Converting something from H.264 to H.265 is complete madness.
H.265 source material exists. When you are lowering the bitrate, the quality of the source material is vital. If your goal is to get 720p in H.265, you should start with high-bitrate 4K footage, not some butchered 720p H.264 file that someone else already wrecked with their encoder.

Regarding adding logos and subtitles.
For the best results, use VirtualDub via DirectShow filters, though that is the most complex method. AviDemux has some subtitle filters, and you can technically add a logo there too by simply adding a line of text to the subtitle file, but it is far from a professional solution.

As for merging everything into a 24-hour loop: AviDemux was built specifically for cutting and joining footage, and it does it perfectly. It allows for cutting at I/B/P frames to prevent audio desync. It also features a SAVE/COPY mode, meaning it doesn't re-encode; it just copies the data, so joining two movies takes about a minute.
Basically, you handle the subtitles, the logo, and the encoding first. Then, in AviDemux, you bring in that film, cut at the last I-frame, bring in the next one, cut at its last I-frame, and repeat until you hit 24 hours. Select "copy" for the video, and it will merge everything into one file in minutes.
The speed of this process depends on your drives. If you are moving files between different disks, it flies. If you are doing it all on one drive, it depends on how fragmented that drive is, much like any standard file copy.

EDIT:
Here is the breakdown of the speed difference when you enable a deinterlace filter versus leaving it off. We are talking about CPU encoding here; if you switch to an Nvidia GPU instead of the CPU, you go from 6 hours down to 15 minutes.

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I see you used ready-made presets, which is a mistake.
Why? Take your example: you chose a 720p 30 fps preset. What if your source material is 25 fps? You will end up with unwatchable video that stutters because it's skipping 5 fps every second. Set your framerate to "Same as Source," turn off all filters, select the Nvidia GPU, and then try Handbrake again.
CPU recommendations? in Desktops ·
wiredotter14 said:Is that middle image (HEVC 4K) also 6mbps? It looks like the best quality to me.

That middle one is the source.

wanderingbison9 said:He mentioned somewhere that he uses NVENC... and from what I gather, he encodes in HEVC, which would normally peg his CPU at 100%, but that isn't happening. There are a few tricks with Hardware encoders. For example, if you're streaming 60 fps plus gameplay, the hardware encoder has to run in a different mode—let's call it fast-low quality—if framerate takes priority over quality. That’s different from just transcoding a video. I can actually choose this setting with AMD VCEENC, and the results are quite good.

If he's using Hardware to encode in H.265, how can he finish a 16-hour job in just 7 hours? He's only running an i3 and a 1050.

Regarding video: GPUs, especially these newer RTX models, deliver solid results. However, if your main priority is still pure image quality, the CPU is still king in that department. A CPU will take as long as it needs to process the image perfectly. If it takes 8 hours to finish 1 minute of footage, so be it; you'll end up with The Best. With ATI, I don't see any options for two-pass encoding on the GPU, and that's where the main issue lies.

I ran a one-minute sample through Handbrake and pulled two screenshots. This was 4K video encoded in x264.
This machine runs a Xeon 5440 and an AMD R7 360—everything is about 10 years old.

GPU encoding took 2:16 with a single pass, and the file is 3200 bitrate at 25MB.
CPU two-pass encoding took 5:15, and the file is 1500 bitrate at 12MB.
I have a 3200 CPU as well, but even on this setup, you can see that the much smaller CPU-encoded file provides a sharper image than the GPU encoding.

image image

For anyone interested, here is the link to the clips used for the screenshots.
https://www.transfernow.net/wW6K01092020
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CPU recommendations? in Desktops ·
Edward Thompson86 said:I'm currently encoding 16 hours of video.

I encode streams 24/7 for IPTV.
Due to circumstances, I just encode whatever I can manage. I don't have a strict deadline; I just work as fast as possible.
The processor is old and wasn't really intended for this—it was meant for web tasks—but it'll do until I put together a new build.

Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 with Intel Core i3
Processor: DualCore Intel Core i3-6098P, 3600 MHz (36 x 100)
Memory: Kingston HyperX KHX2400C12D4/4GX 8 GB
Motherboard: MSI H110I Pro (MS-7995)
Liquid Cooling.

Drive 1 - Intel SSDSC2BW120H6 (111 GB) D: E: F:
Drive 2 - NVMe SAMSUNG MZVLW128 (119 GB) C:
Drive 3 - WDC WD7502ABYS-02A6B0 (698 GB) H:

It's outdated since I didn't need it for anything other than the internet.
Regarding my budget, I don't want to spend huge amounts. I need to upgrade the motherboard, CPU, and RAM. I also need at least another 8 GB of RAM. I can reuse the existing NVMe SSD.
Once 50-60 GB of content is encoded, it gets moved to servers, so I don't really need a massive SSD.

I'm wondering how much time I could save with something like a Ryzen 7. Right now, it takes me 7 hours to process 16 hours of 1080p video.
If a new configuration lets me finish that same job in just 1 hour, then it would be worth the investment.

As far as the motherboard goes, I can only use m-ITX; no other form factor works for me.

Something doesn't add up here. You didn't mention if you're encoding with the CPU or the GPU.
Which codec are you using? Is it x264 or x265? It’s obviously x264 since it takes you that little time.
Are you doing one pass or two? Clearly, it's one pass, since everything is moving relatively quickly for you.

If your goal is 720p or 1080p x264 with a low bitrate (since it's for IPTV), I think you need to use the CPU with a two-pass approach. A GPU, like a Vega 64, will finish the job extremely fast, but it won't match the quality of CPU processing, especially when we're talking about bitrates around 1000 or lower.
I haven't tried Adobe Premiere Elements, but I've used plenty of others like TMPEgEncoder, Handbrake, Avidemux, Sony Vegas, Premiere, AVS, and many more I've never even heard of. Of all those, I still use Avidemux (for cutting out letters or commercials in series) and Handbrake for encoding. Give Handbrake a try...

You have an older card than an RTX 2080 Ti.
image

If you're doing everything via the GPU right now, you won't see any benefit from upgrading the processor. You can't compare CPU speed to GPU speed. However, you can't compare GPU quality to CPU quality either, particularly at low bitrates.

That image above just shows one part where the GPU falls behind. In certain other scenes, modern GPUs actually perform better than x264 on a CPU.
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
wanderingbison9 said:Oh, I see now that Arthur Anderson10 picked up that 32" AOC at the Mall of America...

He grabbed two units. One died after just a few days, and he returned the second one within the 14-day window.
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
Dennis Lopez11 said:Maybe check this one out, it's currently on sale:
https://www.amazon.com/dell-27-inch-monitor/dp/B08P5GZJ5X

My budget is around $250.

On the previous page, I wrote a brief summary regarding the Dell SE2719HR IPS led.

If you need a monitor specifically for work, you might need to stretch that budget a bit. I tested five or six different models over ten days and couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.
Regarding the Dell, it had significantly better colors than any other model I tried. They might be a bit oversaturated, which could be an issue if you require perfectly realistic color accuracy.
Some users mention issues with glowing or ghosting, but that shouldn't interfere with professional tasks.
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
copperranger14 said:Since I'm currently using the Fujitsu Display B22W-5
Any new model should be a noticeable upgrade🙂 thanks

That's what I thought too, but it didn't quite work out that way...
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
neonmarlin56 said:It’s just a mismatch with my old PC right now. I'm getting a brand new build next week, so things will look much better then.

Is it just me, or does that case look like it's from the Great Depression?🙂
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
neonmarlin56 said:Dell UltraSharp 32 4k USB-C Monitor

It arrived the other day. Compared to everything else I've ever used? This thing is on a whole different level.

👍

It wouldn't be surprising, though, considering it costs as much as pure gold.
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
Here are a few more comparisons to help simplify your decision-making process.

On the left, we have the Iiyama XB2783HSU-B3 27" AMVA FHD
. On the right is the Aoc Q3279VWFD8 32" IPS QHD
.
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Left: Iiyama XB2783HSU-B3 27"-AMVA -FHD
Middle: Aoc Q3279VWFD8 32" - IPS - QHD
Right: Dell SE2719HR 27" - IPS - FHD

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Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
Here are a few photos. They aren't perfectly representative because the camera seems to capture things differently than how they look in person, even though they look almost identical in real life.
On the right is the Dell, and on the left should be the Iiyama.🙂

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Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
Iiyama XB2783HSU-B3 27 AMVA+ panel

The new arrival is here. Here are my initial impressions..

imageimage
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Blacks look great. Whites look great. Colors are solid. It lacks that specific effect seen on the Dell.
However, in dark scenes—especially with lower bitrate footage—black tones tend to bleed into blue hues, which is quite irritating. Reducing the contrast helps slightly, but the issue remains. High-quality footage handles this much better.

Backlight bleed is almost non-existent compared to the Dell or the Aoc Q3279VWFD8 32 with its IPS panel.

The contrast is massive and far superior to both the Dell or the Aoc.

Viewing angles are narrower. Color shades shift slightly when moving your head left or right...

It feels like the Iiyama is sharper than the Dell, though that might just be due to the higher contrast...

Since I mostly watch content in the dark, image quality at 30% brightness and lower contrast is what matters most to me.
In this regard, the Iiyama offers a much better picture than the Dell. Even at 25% brightness and 60% contrast, colors remain decent and don't wash out to grey. With the Dell, once you hit 40% brightness and 60% contrast, everything turns grey and colors vanish...

The build is classic Japanese engineering. Everything is well-placed and the construction is high-quality, unlike the Aoc. The Dell has much thinner bezels, but this unit includes speakers and a headphone jack—plus it features height adjustment and pivot. Still, those features can't fully compensate for the aforementioned image flaws. 😢

The Dell is definitely taking a backseat for me, and I'm leaning toward this one. I spend most of my time in the dark, so I prioritize deep blacks over color accuracy and viewing angles. This makes it my preferred choice despite its quirks.
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
DELL SE2719HR IPS led

I almost had my third lucky run with a Dell, but not quite..

The picture quality is incomparably better than the other three I've tested so far.
Colors look most natural. It's an FHD monitor, so the resolution limit is obvious, but that doesn't bother me.
Ghosting is my main issue, if that's even what it is. In moving scenes—like when the camera pans around a black pillar against a white background—there's a massive jump. It shifts by several centimeters and isn't fluid at all. My other two monitors didn't show this. This model claims 4ms, but to me, it feels like over 20ms because it’s jarring. Everything else is great. I still need to check if my Windows 10 settings messed anything up, though I tried resetting to factory defaults and switching between 60Hz and 75Hz, but the problem persists. I'll try connecting it to another PC with a newer graphics card to see.

If it weren't for this, it would be the perfect monitor for me. The image is beautiful. Plus, there's a 5-year warranty. Just $400. Even in games, the ghosting isn't as noticeable; it's specifically prominent in movies, which makes me think something in Windows 10 is misconfigured.

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edit: I hooked it up to another computer and the issue remains. Whether it's ghosting, blooming, or some other phenomenon I can't even name, it's incredibly irritating. 🙂
Is this tied to the 4ms rating, or just an inherent IPS flaw? Maybe I just got a bad unit. I'm going to look at another Dell since the picture quality is otherwise stunning. Perhaps a more expensive model won't have this drawback, so I'll likely order a higher-end Dell to test out.
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
wiredotter14 said:Did you get yours through Amazon.com?

I’m planning to pick one up in about two weeks. Hopefully, I don't get a dud.
By the way, I noticed AOC offers a 14-day DOA warranty, which should apply globally.

Yeah, I bought an AOC through Amazon.com.

But if this unit doesn't work out, I'll just grab another AOC. Honestly, their stuff was fine—it's just a shame this one died on me. 😢 I'm assuming they won't just send back the exact same faulty unit.🙂
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
wiredotter14 said:Here is the reality: if you're buying as an individual, you have a 14-day window to return items bought online, regardless of whether they work or not. There is no debate about service centers or anything else.
However, businesses don't get that same luxury. If you buy through a company, they can send you straight to a repair center even if you just bought it two days ago. In extreme cases, they might even refuse because they claim "it isn't broken." The question is where those boundaries lie. Generally, retailers are pretty reluctant to give replacements to corporate clients, likely because they deal with so many returns from private customers.

If you're unlucky, you'll end up with exactly what I got when I returned mine.🙂