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Posts by crimsonorca172

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Printer issues? in Computer Peripherals ·
Xerox Phaser 3010 for $116
or perhaps
Canon LBP6020B for $166?
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
I have successfully installed Windows 7, and everything seems to be functioning perfectly. The only minor hiccup is that the front audio panel isn't working, though I haven't even connected it yet!
My sincere thanks to Timothy Kim60 and Larry Ortiz5!
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
The audio connector is essentially identical to the front USB port. It’s possible the missing pin isn't in quite the same spot. The issue I'm running into is that I don't have this unified housing for all the wires and connectors; instead, I'm dealing with individual wires where the connectors are labeled exactly as I described in my previous message. So, how on earth should I arrange them to properly match the HD audio configuration?

I haven't even attempted to install Windows yet. I'll tackle that tomorrow. It could end up being quite a lengthy process, especially if things don't go smoothly. For now, I'm heading to bed. 🙂
Besides, I'm not expecting any major headaches here, since I've performed this installation numerous times before. The only real wildcard would be if the disc itself is worn out. 😁
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
I finally did it! I managed to get the computer to boot up. 🙂
However, now I’ve hit a snag while trying to install Windows. I went into the BIOS to check things out, and it seems all my drives—both HDDs and the optical drive—are being recognized properly.
There is a chance I might have misaligned some of the connectors (getting the pin sequence right for the + and - terminals), though I am certain the Power Switch is connected correctly. 😁 I assume the rest are fine too.

The only real headache is that I can't figure out how to hook up the Front audio. The diagrams in the manual just don't seem to match the labels printed on my actual connectors.
On my board, I see Mic In, mic Bias, Speak (or something similar) L/R, Return L/R, and GND.
But here is what the manual shows:
image

Honestly, I could live without the Front audio jacks working, but since they're right there, it would be nice to have them functional.
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
I’ve just finished looking through everything.
If I can manage to find some free time later today, I am going to get my PC built and set up. I will be sure to post an update once I see how it all turns out.
I truly cannot thank you enough for all the advice and the incredible help you've provided.
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
Oh, I see what you mean now—I definitely misspoke earlier when I mentioned the front panel.
What I’m actually struggling with is how to distinguish one from the other; on my specific units, I didn't notice any identical markings to help me tell them apart. Furthermore, how am I supposed to know exactly where each one needs to be connected to the motherboard? Am I expected to follow the manual step-by-step for that?

Sent from my Android using Reddit
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
Thanks again. I’ll definitely take a look at that.
There are still a few other cables and connections on the existing motherboard—the ones that aren't the hard drive, power, or optical drive leads. For instance, there are two cables coming from the front panel of the case, each with four wires.
I should be able to figure it out.
I don't really need the disc drive much myself, but the kids occasionally want to listen to music or watch a CD or DVD.
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
Thank you so much! 👍

So, if I understand correctly, I should merge these two connectors into a single 24-pin connection and plug it into its designated slot.
As for that 4-pin connector, it ought to match what was on my old motherboard—I’ll have to double-check that. I just want to be absolutely certain that there isn't some specific orientation required; I'd hate to assume they're universal and end up plugging something in incorrectly. 😁

Aside from the hard drive and the optical drive (once I finally pick up a new one), is there anything else I need to worry about connecting?
The real question weighing on my mind is this: am I likely to run into any more unexpected surprises like this one, or is the hard part officially behind me? 🙂
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
crimsonorca172, you hit the nail on the head—it looks exactly like the one you just posted. I actually just realized that this specific 4-pin adapter exists.
I am crossing my fingers that there is only one way to seat it into the slot 🙂
However, I do have another question: looking at my motherboard, the CPU power supply (the ATX 12V) uses a dedicated 4-pin connection, which seems perfectly sized for this little adapter. At least, that is what the motherboard manual claims.
So, where does everything go? Am I supposed to plug everything into the main 24-pin connector?
Or am I still required to use that separate 4-pin CPU power port? If that’s the case, I would have to use this 4-pin adapter there, which leaves me with just a 20-pin connector for the 24-pin slot. Or am I completely overthinking this and getting it all wrong?

Is it even possible for an optical drive to support both IDE and SATA, essentially having both types of connectors?
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
My parts finally arrived: motherboard, CPU, RAM, and an HDD.
I was under the impression that I could simply migrate my existing cables—power supply and all—from the old motherboard over to this new one, but it turns out that isn't how it works at all. 😢
That old board is clearly ancient; the connectors just don't match up.

To be specific, I’m looking for a 24-pin power connector, but my old motherboard uses some sort of 20-pin setup or something similar. Since the power supply itself is relatively recent (about two years old), it was likely customized specifically for the old board when it was originally purchased (back then, I had the guys at the local computer shop handle the configuration for me). Now, there aren't any loose wires coming out of the PSU that would fit into a standard 24-pin socket on a modern motherboard.
So, what on earth am I supposed to do here???

My second issue involves the DVD drive. It’s currently using that wide ribbon cable with all those pins—is that what they call IDE? Well, my new motherboard doesn't have a slot for that anymore. Does it connect via SATA now, just like the hard drive? If so, I'll need a SATA cable. Given how old the drive is, I assume it might actually support a SATA connector as well.

There might be other compatibility headaches waiting for me down the road, too. But honestly, this power supply roadblock alone has brought everything to a grinding halt.

What is my best course of action? What can I actually accomplish here on my own? Of course, the easy way out is to just haul the whole rig down to a repair shop, pay them a premium to fix it, and call it a day.
But the real question is: what can I do myself?

Also, please accept my apologies if this isn't the strictly correct thread for this kind of inquiry. I originally came here to get advice on which components to buy (thanks again, Timothy Kim60!), so I figured I would just post this question right here in the same discussion.
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
@Timothy Kim60/">@@Timothy Kim60:
I went ahead and pulled the trigger on those components you recommended: the Celeron 1820, an ASUS motherboard, a 1 TB Seagate BarraCuda, and 4 GB of memory.
I truly appreciate all your guidance on this build!
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
I was actually wondering if there’s any meaningful distinction between the 1150 and 1155 platforms when you consider "modernity"—specifically regarding how much room I'll have for a decent upgrade path down the road.
I'm not planning on buying a pre-built rig, but I have to admit, hearing about that Pentium in the configuration you mentioned really planted a seed of doubt in my mind; since that setup uses the 1155 socket, and $123 is certainly an option.
In the end, I think I'll likely lean toward the 1150 route with the Celeron you suggested earlier.
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
Timothy Kim60 said:Exactly, it absolutely has to be the 1150 socket. If you don't mind me suggesting, it might actually be wiser to go with this one since it features a DVI output for the integrated graphics—assuming your monitor even supports DVI—which would be a fantastic upgrade for the future.

I definitely want it to have DVI—thanks so much for pointing that out! I also have an HTPC (my other rig), and since this is going to be a more modern machine, there is a very real possibility they will eventually swap places, so having that DVI output is a total necessity for me.

As for my current monitor, I don't believe it has a DVI port, though I can't say for certain.

One more thing: would the 1155 socket work? Or is sticking with 1150 the better move?
Naturally, the folks at the local Best Buy are trying to push a pre-built configuration on me; the price isn't significantly higher than what I've calculated for individual components, but it comes with a Pentium and uses the 1155 socket.
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
Well, it turns out I completely misread the situation regarding both the processors and the graphics card, but unfortunately, I didn't realize my mistake until I had already pulled the trigger. 😁

So, looking at a Celeron paired with, say, this motherboard, right? I am fully aware that this setup qualifies as low-end by today's standards, and in about five years, it will likely be nothing more than an ancient relic. Even so, I am hoping it will still function adequately for basic everyday tasks?! Especially if I plan on upgrading to a much better processor down the road.
Thanks so much!
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
I don't have any intention of gaming on this machine. This is primarily a family computer intended for the kids to play their little games and watch movies. Since they are quite young, we aren't talking about high-end titles here. 🙂
My wife and I will mainly be using it for web browsing and general tasks.
So, am I correct in assuming that Intel offers superior integrated graphics within this specific budget range—specifically where both the CPU and the motherboard combined stay under about $100? For our needs, having decent visual performance is actually a much higher priority than raw processing power.

However, if for some reason I decide to go the AMD route, which of these would you recommend:
- Intel Pentium, AM4 - $96
- Intel Core i3, AM4 - $126
- Intel APU, LGA 1150 - $76

The issue with the LGA 1150 option is that the motherboards tend to be pricier, which pretty much eats up any savings I might get from choosing a cheaper dual-core processor.

I realize that any of these options will technically suffice for our basic requirements. That said, my real goal is to pick something that remains perfectly functional for the exact same purpose five years down the line.
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
My thanks to dustyskipper77 as well!
When it comes down to it, should I be looking at AMD or Intel? Isn't AMD generally the more budget-friendly route if you're chasing the same level of performance? To put it plainly, since my requirements fall strictly within the low-end category, would AMD be the more cost-effective way to go?
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
Thanks so much! 🙂
While I don't strictly require a drive with that much capacity, I suspect the price gap between this one and a 500GB model isn't actually that significant.
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
So, I’ve been working with my current studio setup for about 8 to 10 years now. Aside from the case and the power supply—which aren't exactly brand new, but they're maybe a year or two old and doing just fine—everything else is pretty ancient. I really don't see the need to replace them if they aren't broken.
My budget isn't strictly set in stone, but I have no intention of overspending; I want to stick to what is absolutely necessary to cover my basic workflow needs. Honestly, I think something in the ballpark of $433 should be more than enough. I'm even questioning whether I actually need to shell out money for a new HDD right now.
If we find that the total cost starts creeping up toward $667, then I’d honestly rather just put that money toward a laptop instead. I don't typically go for laptops since I already have a work issued one, but at that price point, the value proposition changes.
PC Build under $300 in Desktops ·
Rather than cluttering up the forums with a brand-new thread, I figured I would just jump right in here since I am leaning toward a more "budget-friendly" approach.
I currently have an old computer sitting in a relatively new case, and honestly, it’s still functional enough to serve as a basic workstation. If my understanding of hardware is correct, I really just need to pick up a processor, a motherboard, some RAM, and an HDD to get things moving. I plan on hanging onto my existing 160 GB hard drive to save a bit extra.
This machine is primarily going to be used for web browsing and light everyday tasks—think Microsoft Office, streaming music, and watching movies. My main priority is to keep the total cost as low as humanly possible. 🙂

My other thought is to just go out and grab a laptop instead, though I’m genuinely torn on which route actually makes more sense for me.
Anyone still running Windows 7? in Software ·
Douglas Garcia52 said:You might run into some audio issues stemming from the drivers—specifically the sound card drivers.

The thing is, Windows doesn't just pull every single driver automatically—it's inconsistent. You’ll almost always find yourself hunting down specific ones and installing them manually.

Like I mentioned before, just give it a shot; you have nothing to lose since reverting back to Windows XP is a breeze.👍

I ended up switching back to Windows XP. If you're just looking at Windows 7 for basic tasks, it'll probably be fine. However, I ran into significant headaches trying to get my multimedia setup (my HTPC) working properly. I might have been able to troubleshoot my way through it, but honestly, it wasn't worth the sheer amount of effort required. 😁 It would likely turn into a constant cycle of maintenance for features that you really just expect to work right out of the box.
But again, to reiterate, if your needs are strictly limited to browsing the web, using Microsoft Office, and similar tasks, even an old relic running Windows 7 can handle it. My struggles were almost entirely centered around driver compatibility and those kinds of technical hurdles.

And sure enough, just as you suspected, the audio was completely dead—I had to go hunt down and install the driver myself.