Posts by Sean Vaughn35

Thanks so much, I went ahead and pulled the board out
http://s14.postimg.org/fpa7g5h3z/20160228_141033.jpg
It looks like there might be a blown chip or maybe a capacitor gone bad somewhere right near the USB port entrance.

darkowl72 said:What kind of absolute garbage caused by a freaking splitter 😱

I mean, can't you just print over LAN or Wi-Fi? Whatever setup you've got running right now, why bother?

Regarding that USB issue, try using a thumb drive first—just to see if your computer's USB ports are even behaving. If the port drew too much power, you might have fried one or two, but the others should still be functional. If that's the case, you almost certainly have a spare header on your motherboard for another pair of USB ports, so you could just relocate the connectors there. Just please, for the love of God, watch those pins; if you flip them the wrong way, you'll end up frying whatever you plug into them. Now, if the USB port on the printer itself is what died, you probably won't be able to fix it (or it won't be worth the hassle), but at least you still have the option to print over the network...

Man, honestly, what kind of idiot wires things like that? You could have easily started a fire. With standard wall outlets, it shouldn't matter which way you orient the plug, and you definitely shouldn't be seeing anything like this happen...

Well, I tested a flash drive and the USB ports on my PC work fine, but the USB port on the printer smells like an outright short circuit. As for printing over the network, this printer actually has both LAN and Wi-Fi capabilities. It's just that I've never actually printed that way, nor have I ever bothered to set it up. I can log into the printer's web interface through my browser and check the individual ink levels without any trouble, but I haven't a clue how to actually send a print job over the network. I've never had any reason to try since I've always just relied on the USB cable.

Well, I just finished checking everything, and man, what a mess. I ended up getting my hands on this three-prong power strip from some guy who clearly thinks he’s an astronaut or something because his wiring was totally out of this world. On one end, he had the green-yellow and blue wires set as hot and neutral, with black for the ground. Then, on the other side, he swapped them—blue and black were acting as hot and neutral, while the green-yellow was standard ground. Naturally, I accidentally plugged it in the "right" way once, and while it actually worked, the monitor started flickering like crazy because of the improper connection and was leaking current everywhere. But then, get this—the moment I flipped the plug in the outlet... BOOM. Since the printer was powered on, I probably sent a massive surge straight through it. Seriously, what a nightmare. The printer powers up and the display looks fine, but my PC won't recognize it at all, so now I'm just sitting here praying it isn't completely fried. Is there any chance a specific component near the USB port could have taken the hit for the rest of the machine? Or is the entire mainboard basically a lost cause?

P.S. The LAN connection is actually working fine; I can see the printer responding in my browser and even check the ink cartridges levels. The WiFi signal on the device is also strong. It’s just that I can't print anything because the USB port is dead.

hollowmarlin27 said:What if you don't have three-phase power running through your attic? What if the printer is plugged into one phase and the PC is on another??

Well, of course I have three-phase power; I mean, who doesn't have that nowadays? To be honest, I actually tried plugging both the computer and the printer into the same outlet first, and then later I switched to a different phase because someone suggested it might help with electromagnetic interference. Now, here’s the kicker: the printer seems to be functioning just fine, but it simply won't recognize the computer at all. Is it possible that I’ve somehow fried the entire USB port on the machine, or is there some kind of built-in surge protection at the USB input that could be blocking the connection?

I hooked my printer up to my laptop via USB, and everything seemed totally fine—no blinking lights, no issues at all. It really felt like my desktop PC was causing some kind of interference 😁

So, I decided to try flipping the plug on the desktop's power cord. The moment I plugged it back in, the printer started making this awful buzzing sound, even though the USB cable was still connected between the computer and the printer. I honestly have no idea what kind of electrical conflict that was, but when you swap the polarity on a standard 120V outlet, things can get weird. In the middle of all that chaos, I actually blew the circuit breaker for my upstairs room. The printer acted like it hit a massive short circuit; there was that unmistakable, unpleasant smell of burning, and the USB cable itself got surprisingly hot to the touch. I ended up replacing the breaker and plugging the computer and the printer into separate outlets, which seems to have solved it since nothing else burned up. I suspect whatever heat was inside the printer might have just triggered that short-circuit smell. All in all, I’ve never seen anything quite like it—I never imagined that simply reversing the polarity on an AC outlet could cause such a wild surge through the computer.

darkowl72 said:There’s a slim chance you might be able to fix this without having to swap out the entire power supply, so give one of these a shot:

1. Try simply flipping the printer's power plug 180 degrees and plugging it back into the same outlet. Basically, just reverse the polarity. Sometimes, that little tweak can actually help reduce interference.

2. Grab an extension cord and plug the printer into a completely different circuit. In most American homes, the outlets aren't all running off a single breaker; they're usually split across at least two or three. By moving the printer to a different circuit, you should be able to isolate it from whatever electrical noise it's generating.

Anyway, you really ought to get this sorted, because constant electromagnetic interference isn't good for your gear—it can end up causing permanent damage...

I’ve already tried both options, and honestly, nothing has changed. Even when I switch the printer over to a second or third circuit, I'm still getting the exact same interference issues. At this point, I think I'll take a look inside the printer itself to see if there's a specific component I can replace so I don't have to go through the hassle of replacing the whole power supply unit.

darkowl72 said:That really shouldn't be happening. It’s quite possible you're dealing with some kind of electromagnetic interference, so my best advice would be to try and isolate those cables from your monitor—keep them away from other cords, hardware, power bricks... just clear some space. Even moving the monitor itself might help.

It's a classic issue when you're using unshielded cables or if you've got a cheap power adapter throwing off "dirty" electricity. You might want to try plugging the printer into a completely different outlet and keeping it as far away from everything else as possible. Those little power bricks used for printers and routers can be hit or miss sometimes...

Well, I've tried every single one of those tricks, and I'm still stuck in the exact same spot. As soon as I plug the USB in, it starts blinking, and even if I shut the printer down, it keeps right on blinking. Interestingly, though, if I leave the USB plugged in but pull the printer's power cord out of the wall, the blinking finally stops. At this point, I'm starting to suspect the power supply inside the printer itself is shot.

P.S. Just to add to the mystery, if I lean the USB cable against my computer tower, it starts blinking again. I don't even have to plug it into the machine; just having the metal contact the cable triggers the same headache.

Hey there! Quick question: why is it that whenever I plug the USB cable from my printer into my computer, my monitor starts flickering just a little bit?

Sean Vaughn35 said:I managed to get the printer back on track using the USB cable and the Adjustment program, and everything seems to be working perfectly now! My only real headache is the display—it’s stuck with the entire menu in German, and I have absolutely no idea how to translate it or navigate through it.

I actually managed to translate everything, but I think I might be running low on one of my ink cartridges because I'm staring at this error message: cannot recognize cartridge T0806...

hollowmarlin27 said:The most convenient thing about this specific Epson is that it actually comes with a factory-installed CISS from back when Epson viewed this technology quite differently than they do today. Essentially, this unit features a built-in Japanese CISS; compared to that, the consumer-grade A L series is just a basic, mass-produced version sold for 500- $200 which ends up costing 2 - 3 * more than the actual internal mechanics are worth.

Actually, using this exact same internal mechanism, Epson produced a professional-grade CD/DVD printing robot, the PP 100 series, which retails for around 20 $0.00. This means if you're using this Canon PIXMA series to print on CDs or DVDs, the quality won't be any worse, nor will it wear out any faster than it would on that $20 $0.00 machine.

So, really, all you need to do is swap out the original cartridges and install an ARC kit with external tanks. I should mention, though, you might have to shave down a tiny bit of the plastic casing to ensure the cables don't get pinched, so it's not exactly a job for someone who isn't comfortable with a little DIY tinkering.

I managed to reset the printer using a USB cable and the Adjustment program, and everything seems to be working perfectly! My only lingering question is whether there's any way to change the language on the display, because the entire menu is stuck in German.

hollowmarlin27 said:$33 for something that costs about $667 , it’s actually a pretty decent move

Honestly, once you reset that newer model from $667, it isn't going to perform any better than this one from $33. That is, assuming the previous owner didn't already mess things up by using some cheap, low-quality knockoff ink.

That's why I think installing a CISS is such a smart way to go; you're basically running the exact same reliable ink through the system every single time. When you rely on those third-party cartridges, you're always playing a bit of a guessing game regarding whatever quality they managed to pull off in their latest batch.

I don't know all that much about how a CISS works, but am I right in thinking they're basically just external tanks hooked up to the side of the printer where I just pour in ink from refill bottles?
P.S. Looking at the ink cartridges inside, the ones that aren't empty are labeled OEM, so I assume that means they're the genuine stuff...

hollowmarlin27 said:It’s a fantastic machine
working perfectly with a CISS system

A really solid buy

You’ll just need to take it to a repair shop so they can reset the waste ink counter
The cost is usually around 150 - $133

My advice? Once that's done, it’s a smart move to install a CISS. That’ll run you an extra $133 or so. Honestly, once you do that, you have a printer that is definitively superior to even the most expensive Epson models in the L series, and there's a very simple reason for that: this Canon PIXMA series has a print head with 6 * 180 nozzles, whereas the best high-end Epson L series models only offer 180 + 3 * 59 nozzles

That’s why whoever sold it was being foolish—they clearly had no idea what kind of gem they were putting on the table. People always think they need the absolute latest tech, but this one has clearly already put in its time. If it weren't such a reliable workhorse, there wouldn't even be a need for this reset procedure in the first place.

Thanks so much for the breakdown, I really appreciate the insight👍. I'm going to try using some software tools here to see if I can handle the reset myself; if not, I'll find a local shop. I'm actually wondering if a reset is even possible without a USB cable since I don't have one handy—unless there's some way to do it over a LAN connection. I picked it up for a steal at 15€ 😵

Hi everyone, I recently picked up a Canon PIXMA series printer, but I’ve hit a bit of a snag trying to get it up and running. Every time I try to start it, I get stuck on this error message on the display. In German, it says:
"Die Tintenkissen im Drucker sind verbraucht. Bitte den Epson-Support verständigen."

I went ahead and looked up what that meant in the Manual, which gave me this in English:
"The printers ink cartridges are nearing the end of their service life. Contact Epson support"

Hey everyone, I wanted to jump in here with a quick question—is there an online sportsbook out there that’s just a little bit slower when it comes to updating goals and other live betting markets? I’m looking for that tiny window of opportunity where I might be able to get a bet on something like a first goalscorer right before the action gets frozen. I know, I know, it sounds like a tall order, but I tend to work pretty fast, so if anyone knows of a platform that lags just enough to give me that edge, I'd love to hear it. From what I've noticed, Caesars Sportsbook tends to be about ten seconds faster on average than DraftKings, though obviously, it all really boils down to the specific match and where the game is being played. Hope you're all having a great day!