Posts by Kevin Kim7

Hey,

I'm hitting a wall trying to install the drivers for this graphics card. When I check Device Manager, I get an error message that says:

This device cannot find enough free resources that it can use. (Code 12)

If you want to use this device, you will need to disable one of the other devices on this system.

The laptop is a Dell Latitude 3410 running a fresh install of Windows 10.

I tried installing the Intel software, but the installation fails halfway through and throws an error.

I read somewhere that this might be caused by an outdated OS version.

Anyone dealt with this before or found a fix?

Everything else functions fine, but the graphics performance is sluggish. For example, there's noticeable stuttering whenever I open the Start menu.

ironcyclist58 said:That’s the catch. You actually need an account with a password...

I don't see why that's necessary.

Anyway, I set it up and it's working now. The downside is that whenever I try to access a shared folder, I have to manually enter the credentials from the host PC.

ruggedpanther2 said:First, you need to figure out exactly what you're sharing:
View on imgur

Then, adjust your permissions settings:
View on imgur

That should do the trick. 😁 😁 😁

Look, I get all that. But it isn't working. I have absolutely no clue what's wrong because this used to be seamless before.

ironcyclist58 said:Are you running a saved login on the computer you're using to share from?

No I don't.

ruggedpanther2 said:That's exactly how I set up my laptop and desktop too. Sometimes it works seamlessly, and other times? Not so much. It turns out the culprit was just a pesky firewall setting.

Disabled the firewalls on both machines. Still nothing.

Hey everyone,

I’m trying to move files between my laptop and my desktop. The laptop is on Wi-Fi, while the desktop is hardwired via Ethernet. I’ve already set them up in a Workgroup, but whenever I try to share a folder, I just get an access denied error. Check the screenshots here:

View on imgur

The exact same thing happens when I try to reach the desktop from the laptop side.
As you can see, both machines show up fine on the network map.

Eric Alvarez said:So, there's your answer. Your issue likely stems from needing 1.50V memory modules.

I figured out the voltage was the culprit once I actually looked at the specs on the PCB.
Since I swapped it in and out a few times, I'm hoping I didn't fry the thing by hitting it with too much juice.

Larry Ortiz5 said:I've dealt with something similar before—for me, it turned out the old and new RAM sticks just didn't want to play nice together. Once I pulled the old one out and just used the new stick, the computer booted up just fine. It is a bit strange, though, that the new stick won't even let your PC start on its own... that usually points to either a faulty module or maybe your motherboard just doesn't support it. Have you checked the sticker on the RAM for the speed? You should probably cross-reference that with your motherboard's specs to see what speeds it actually supports.

The specs say this type: 4GB DDR3 SDRAM PC3-10600 (1,333-MHz) Non ECC

Here's the catch: the one I picked up runs at 1600 MHz, and it’s PC3L, not standard PC3.

Right now, my rig is running on 4 GB of RAM. View on imgur
View on imgur

I picked up another stick from the same manufacturer—4 GB, DDR3, identical specs. But here’s the problem: the second I seat it in the slot and hit power, the system just spits out a series of beeps. Then, about thirty seconds later, the fans kick into overdrive like they're trying to take off. I've cycled through every single slot on the motherboard, but nothing changes. Even when I try running the new stick entirely on its own, the result is the same failure. This is the memory I'm trying to install:
View on imgur

Thanks to everyone for the advice 🙂

This power supply is ancient, and honestly, it’s one of those cheap, off-brand pieces of junk you see everywhere. 😁 I figured I could just toss it out of the equation since a PSU should either work or it shouldn't—it shouldn't be acting up by crashing after an hour one time and then a single minute the next.
I went ahead and grabbed a replacement, and now the rig is actually running.

p.s. Can someone break down how power supply voltages work? Specifically, how can I tell if the readings are off and something is failing?

wiredotter14 said:Why not just pick up a used R7 250 or 250X? (Not sure if that one even needs a PCIe power connector.)

Man, I'll just grab a GT 730 with GDDR5. Finding those specific cards you mentioned at a decent price is like searching for a needle in a haystack. Honestly, for that kind of cash, I'd rather buy something brand new. At least then I get a warranty. Like I said, hardcore gaming isn't my top priority anyway.

My PC keeps shutting down right after Windows(7) boots up. Sometimes it happens within 15 seconds, other times I get a couple of minutes before it dies.

I ran tests on the hardware at a friend's place, and the RAM, GPU, and CPU all passed. They're fine.


Initially, I suspected the motherboard or the hard drive. Since I had a spare drive lying around, I swapped out the old one—which was riddled with bad sectors anyway. We did a clean install of Windows, loaded the drivers and all the necessary software, and everything worked perfectly on his machine.
But the second I brought it back home, the same problem returned. It shuts down post-boot, sometimes sooner, sometimes later.

The only variable is that we used a different power cable at his house.

Athlon 3200 2.2 GHz
DDR 1.5 GB
HD 2400 Pro
HD 80 GB

Timothy Kim60 said:Do $167 Let’s be real: you can end up with nothing but a total piece of junk if the price-to-performance ratio on a GPU is garbage.

Check this out: XFX AMD Radeon RX 480. It’s available right now over at Newegg.

I don't have any intention of running the latest AAA titles anyway. That integrated graphics setup really bugs me, and besides, this rig is mostly just for Office, music, and browsing the web.

What's your take on this one? Check out this graphics card deal over at Newegg: https://www.newegg.com
Compared to an R7 240? It isn't even a contest.

Timothy Kim60 said:It pulls its power from the PCIe slot; your CPU isn't some massive power hog. As long as that PSU delivers over 150W on the +12V rail, you're golden...

Official GPU manufacturer pages are useless when you're talking about power supplies. You can find one vendor claiming 500W for the exact same chip (like an R9 290) while another claims 750W. It's a mess. Besides, not all PSUs are created equal even if they list the same wattage—the difference between a cheap unit and a high-end one is night and day.

Look, I know plenty about how much quality varies between different PSU brands. But that card is way overpriced. Give me something closer to $167.

Larry Ortiz5 said:So, you're looking for a graphics card that doesn't need an extra power connector—just draws everything straight from the PCIe slot. Look, how much cash are we actually talking about here? And do you plan on buying this from a proper retailer like Best Buy or Newegg, or are you trying to hunt for a deal on Craigslist?

Pa $167 It doesn't matter if it’s used or brand new. The only thing that matters is whether it can actually run on that 240W power supply. That's the bottom line.

Timothy Kim60 said:https://www.newegg.com

It pulls way too much power. The specs clearly state it recommends a 400W PSU. I need something that runs on 240W.

Exactly what the title says: I need to know the absolute limit for a low-profile graphics card given a 240W power supply.
I'm working with a branded HP machine (an HP Compaq SFF model) with these specs:
CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo 3.00 GHz, E8400 2CORES
RAM: 4GB DDR3
HDD: 250 GB
GPU: Integrated Intel GMA 4500 64MB
Optical Drive: DVD-RW
I/O: 10x USB 2.0; DisplayPort; VGA; LAN; 2x 3.5mm audio jacks; RS232
PSU: 240W

Is there any realistic way to slap a GPU in here on 240W that can actually handle games from up through 2010?

rowdyotter12 said:From what I can gather by looking at the response, it seems like one of those folks was actually dealing with a hardware issue—specifically, they had a stuck Delete key.

I physically pried the delete button loose and the problem vanished.👍

It’s possible. The laptop keyboard is a disaster—it’s physically damaged. A few keys work, but most are completely dead or just input the wrong characters entirely. I'll look into it.

I’ve got this old laptop sitting around that’s crawling with some kind of virus.
Every single time I click an icon, a "confirm file delete" prompt pops up and just won't stop. I tried a clean reinstall of macOS, but then realized I’m an idiot—my system partition was actually on the D drive, and I just wiped the C drive. So if the virus is still hanging around, it’s tucked away on that D partition, which explains why nothing changed.

I think I’m dealing with the exact same headache described here: http://www.cnet.com/forums/discussio...uously-121169/

I already ran scans with Bitdefender and Malwarebytes, but neither one caught a thing.
Anyone got a fix?