The RTX 3080 barely edges out the old GTX 1080, yet it falls significantly short of the 1080Ti. You're looking at a GPU bottleneck in 99% of scenarios, especially if you're trying to play at 1080p, let alone 1440p.
Modern games have become absolute monsters; take this latest Assassin's Creed title, for example—it absolutely shreds a card like that even at 1080p on medium or high settings. Forget about hitting anything north of 100 FPS. Meanwhile, those "competitive games" designed for high refresh rates can run at massive frame rates even on a literal potato PC.
I was actually just reading about something similar elsewhere. Did you pick this card up from a crypto miner? It likely has a modded BIOS; you should probably flash it back to the stock version.
The best part is that even 144Hz monitors aren't breaking the bank anymore (around $160-$$633), which means we aren't stuck using those old TN panels anymore. It's the same deal with 1440p non-TN displays—like those massive 31.5" 75Hz AOC models everyone loves.
I picked up a random 1080p monitor for nearly $433 (similar to that sale price of $150-$$533) back then, but you can grab something like that now for just $300. Honestly, it's a great time to be buying a monitor.
The issue with these professional platforms is that even if you manage to snag a decent deal on a CPU, the motherboards are outrageously overpriced. They’re usually used, lack any kind of warranty, and if one dies on you, you're basically screwed—you'll either never find a replacement or end up paying through the nose for a second-hand board with zero protection. It's a cycle we've seen play out over several generations now. It's as if the ratio of available CPUs to compatible boards has shifted to 10:1.😬
Every single component you purchase comes with its own individual warranty, so there's really nothing to worry about regarding who handles the assembly or when it happens.
Peter Green, man, that motherboard again. Seriously? It makes zero sense when you look at these other options—they're actually cheaper too.
They’ve got 4 RAM slots, decent coolers, and the VRMs are definitely higher quality based on solid user feedback.
In my opinion, if you're building a Conferencier like this, you should be aiming for at least something like this setup (assuming you're using a GTX 1070, of course).
Peter Green said:Here is a build with a GPU that offers roughly 60-70% better performance.
You're overestimating things a bit... 47% at 1080p click
But yeah, if you're looking at higher budgets, go for a GTX 1070/Ti. That motherboard choice is a little weak for this setup; you really should look for something with a decent VRM cooler and four RAM slots—it's not like we're cutting corners on a budget build here.
To put it simply, just like that quad-core i5 was your go-to "best buy" for gaming a few years back at roughly $433, the modern equivalent is the AMD Ryzen 1600/2600. There’s been quite a bit of drama surrounding this lately, but the biggest recent headache is the massive price hike on Intel processors due to manufacturing shortages.
The build crimsonstag84 put together for you is the absolute best value for that budget, whether you're playing Fortnite or anything else. You could tweak a few details—like which case, SSD, or RAM sticks you pick—depending on what's actually in stock at Best Buy or Micro Center at the moment, but the core foundation remains the same. If someone has a little extra cash, they can swap out an RX 570/580 for an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070/1070Ti, and that's really all there is to it.
As far as modern AAA titles go, Pentiums haven't been relevant for a long time, and even a basic quad-core isn't exactly the gold standard anymore, though it still gets the job done in most scenarios.
Those aren't even in the same category; his setup features 144Hz, and there's a general consensus that VA panels are superior for watching movies because they offer much deeper blacks and better contrast—which is why they dominate the US TV market right now. Historically, VA was considered the worst option for gaming due to being the slowest, but that landscape has shifted recently. You see them popping up everywhere in 144Hz gaming monitors lately; it feels like these panels are starting to take over the market.
Of course it's the USA—the whole discussion centered on US Amazon sellers. A colleague already pointed that out, and you can see EVGA is directing people to US pages while Sapphire mentions "each country," etc. It really just comes down to the specific manufacturer, so you have to check with them directly. For instance, if your local retailer doesn't cover that third year, Sapphire and GIGABYTE might just leave you hanging.
With drives, things are a bit better than they are with GPUs; most brands are pretty willing to help, though Crucial is the one exception.
Samsung "If your SSD is a US model, you can contact us for warranty issues. We will take care of the warranty for the full 5 years for the US Samsung models. If you are the end user of this SSD, and your SSD stops working within 5 years, we pay for the shipment to our repair center."
Kingston "If you experience any issues with our SSD after those 2 years, you can contact us directly via phone, email or chat and we will assist you. You will eventually have to return the defective part back to us at your own cost. Once we receive your part, we will ship the replacement product at our cost."
WD "Thank you for your reply. Warranty for WD HDD/SSD drives can be from 2 to 5 years. And if it is still under warranty, we will cover it. Also, it has to be a valid warranty case. The drive must not be physically damaged or an OEM drive. For more information about warranty policy and warranty period for each drive series please follow the link:
So, if your reseller, for example, provides a 2-year warranty but our support page shows it should be 3, we will cover that extra year. Also, please make sure to keep your proof of purchase for the device."
SanDisk "Please be advised that the SSD Plus has a 3-year warranty period provided by SanDisk. If the drive fails during this period, we will be more than happy to replace the drive for you. Through our RMA process, you will receive a pre-paid UPS label so you can send the drive to our depot at no cost to you."
Exactly. If the manufacturer offers an extended option, you can try reaching out to them after those first two years. However, not every company handles things the same way. One guy from a tech forum actually reached out to several GPU vendors to clear this up:
Following up on the discussion from earlier in this thread, I sent inquiries to GIGABYTE, Sapphire, EVGA, and Asus regarding what happens after the initial two-year warranty period for graphics cards purchased via Amazon. Here is what they had to say:
Sapphire "Each country has different warranty policy and bases on the local distributor.If you plan to purchase from Amazon , then you will need to follow up their warranty policy. If they give you 2 years , then it is 2 years , if they give you 30 days , then it is 30 days. Sapphire only covers the warranty through retailers/distributors, not directly with the end users. here is our warranty policy for your reference - http://www.sapphiretech.com/support.asp?lang=eng Thanks."
GIGABYTE "Kindly understand the warranty terms are dependent on your sale of contract and are what ever your supplier sold you. End users must request a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA) service through dealers where the product was purchased. For example, if they offer you one year warranty, then it is cover by one year; if they provide 2-year, then it is 2-year warranty. You can directly consult with your retailer.If you find any problem dealing with your retailer or if there is anything we can support further through our system, please provide us product serial number and invoice to verify channel information as different terms may apply. Best Regards, GIGABYTE"
Asus - initially they asked me for the card's serial number. I told them I wouldn't have it until I actually bought the card, so they sent over this: "Dear Asus Valued customer, Regarding the below described case, we kindly inform you that the warranty of the VGA's is valid for 3 years according the s/n of the card. The first 2 years of the warranty are valid according to the purchase date. (The customer must contact the dealer for the repair of the VGA.) The third year of the warranty is valid according to the s/n of the VGA ( s/n = production date ). (the customer can send the vga directly at the Asus repair center.) The warranty of the VGA is valid only in the country where the VGA is bought. (local warranty)"
EVGA "Thank you for contacting technical Support. EVGA Offers 3 year limited warranty from the original purchase date for original owner. Please register your product first to get the warranty information of your product. The following links will assist you further, https://secure.evga.com/US/signup.asp - Create an EVGA Account http://us.evga.com/support/register.asp - Register Your Product http://us.evga.com/support/upload.asp - Upload your Invoice Please go through following EVGA Warranty terms and condition. https://us.evga.com/support/warranty/ Please feel free to contact us for any further information."
To put it simply: let's say Sapphire usually provides a 3-year warranty, but if the retailer only gives you 2 years, they won't honor that third year for you. They made it very clear that you are bound by whatever the shop provides and can't bypass them.
If you're working with a tight budget, it might actually be smarter to stick with 8GB of RAM for now. Take that extra cash and dump it into a better CPU, motherboard, or graphics card instead. Upgrading your RAM is an easy fix down the road.
It wasn't suggesting the 2200G uses Vega 8 architecture; rather, it's being positioned as the most budget-friendly quad-core option alongside the R3 1200.
4K on a 27" screen is just going to feel way too cramped. You really need a much larger diagonal to make sense of it. It’s essentially like trying to cram four FHD displays into a space that's barely even standard for a single FHD monitor
For a GPU, you could also look at this option. Just keep in mind that our sales tax will be about 6% higher than what they charge in Germany, plus shipping costs. You'll see the actual final price once you hit the checkout stage, but my best guess is that it should come in under $600 including delivery .
Assembly? Are you talking about that app that hasn't seen an update in a century? Even when it was actually relevant, their recommendations were always hit or miss... Just start a new thread, state your budget and your requirements, and people will give you some suggestions.
Regarding cases, you're probably thinking of those HTPC-style chassis. Those work fine if you're just building a basic office machine or something similar. But if you're looking at a gaming PC, you're going to run into trouble because any decent hardware—specifically graphics cards—isn't low profile. That said, you could look into the ITX format; check out some of those cases if space is tight, like click. Just keep in mind that because of the small form factor, ITX motherboards tend to be more expensive than standard ones since they're less feature-rich...