Set it to 4096, though honestly, it doesn't really matter. The system is just going to pick 4096 by default anyway. This number basically dictates the cluster size on the drive in bytes. If you're saving a file smaller than 4 KB, it’s still going to hog 4 KB of space because that's the minimum cluster size. If you've got something like a 7 KB file, it’ll grab 8 KB—two clusters, to be precise. That's why you see that gap between actual file size and the size on disk.
No, I meant check directly on the phone itself. Since it’s connected to the router via Wi-Fi, you had to enter the password when you first linked up. It's all stored right there in the settings. I've attached a link with instructions for Android, assuming that's what you're running. It might vary slightly depending on which version of Android you have. Can you follow instructions written in English?
For Android 10 and above
Open the Wi-Fi or Internet submenu in Settings. Tap the current network or select "Saved networks" and choose one. Tap "Share" below the network's name. Authenticate yourself if you have device security set up. See the plain text password under the QR code.
Technically, you should be fine using an external screen.
But look, if you don't have a MUX switch? It isn't the end of the world. You can still squeeze out more performance by hooking up an external monitor. The trick is making sure that display output is wired straight to the dedicated GPU instead of running through the Intel or AMD integrated graphics.
shadowlynx102 said:Oh, really? When I was busy fixing PCs, you were probably still in preschool. What do those two wires going to the Energy button actually do? They just short the black and green pins on the 24-pin connector.
Wait, how is a PC supposed to turn on if the 24-pin connector is unplugged? He’d have to disconnect it just to short those two pins. Which means at that exact moment, the motherboard isn't getting any Energy. You test the Energy switch using the front panel connectors, not the 24-pin. The Energy switch doesn't plug into the 24-pin; it goes straight to the front panel headers.
Unfortunately, all signs point toward a motherboard failure. Even though this method
Zachary Bishop15 said:I unplugged the 24-pin connector from the motherboard, jumped the green wire with an adjacent black one—since there are plenty of black ones to choose from—connected the 220V cable, flipped the PSU switch, and a fan spun up.
That doesn't absolutely rule out the power supply. If a fan spun, it likely came from inside the PSU itself, which suggests it’s getting power, but it doesn't mean the voltages are actually stable or correct. Your best bet is to grab a different power supply and test it. If nothing happens with a second unit, then your motherboard is dead.
Zachary Bishop15 said:I unplugged the 24-pin from the motherboard, briefly jumped the green wire and its neighbor—the black one, since there are several—plugged in the 110V cable, flipped the PSU switch, and a fan spun up.
That has absolutely nothing to do with the power button. You just confirmed the PSU isn't dead. Try doing that with the reset switch to rule out the power button itself. If that doesn't work, then you're looking at a dead motherboard.
Interesting idea, but I’m not sure if it’s actually worth your money. First off, from what I can see, that power supply only has two 6+2 pin connectors. How many does that Radeon RX 580 actually need you to plug in? Some models demand both a 1x8 and a 1x6 pin setup. It might be fine without overclocking, but check your specs first. Make sure you even have enough connectors to run both cards. Even if you do, you'd be pushing that power supply right to its absolute limit. Also, you realize you won't actually get more Video RAM, right? Doubling up on GPUs doesn't increase your Video RAM capacity; instead, both cards just handle the same task simultaneously, which makes things faster. Furthermore, DaVinci Resolve doesn't support Crossfire; it uses its own specific dual GPU system. Honestly, I haven't a clue how it works under the hood. I did dig around and found some advice here.
The guy here says it's better to just buy one powerful card rather than pairing up two weaker ones. I don't know. Maybe it would work, but I fear you'll end up with more headaches than if you had just invested in a single, stronger card.
shadowlynx102 said:To rule out a broken power button, open the case and briefly bridge the black and green wires on the 24-pin power connector. If the PC turns on, it's the button. If not, swap the PSU.
Hold on a second. You don't do that on the 24-pin connector; you do that on the front panel power switch pins on the motherboard.
You could also just swap the reset switch and the power switch so you can turn it on using the reset button.
What you described is how you test a PSU without a motherboard. You plug in the 24-pin along with all the other connectors, bridge those two specific wires, and leave just one load connected—like a fan—to see if the PSU actually works.
I'm not entirely sure what Zachary Bishop15 actually did here. Did you short the pins on the motherboard where the case's power switch connects, or did you short the black and green wires on the 24-pin connector?
bluerider2 said:I’m a little skeptical that any of this will actually work for me, mostly because I already have... Laptop..
When I mentioned a new enclosure, I was talking about an external drive housing, not a PC case. It’s a solid workaround if the USB port on your current external drive dies. Everything stays the same; you just plug it into your laptop using the USB cable that comes with the new enclosure.
urbanheron4
urbanheron4 said:You can basically tear this whole thing apart and end up with a perfectly good 2.5-inch SATA hard drive. At that point, you could just toss it straight into a desktop PC or whatever else needs the extra storage. Time to move everything into a new case.. Let's put it this way.
I found this external enclosure for a hard drive on an American retail site. It’s a black USB 3.0 model. Looks standard enough, I suppose. I just watched this video. It’s worth a look if you have some time to kill, though I won't pretend it's high art. It gets straight to the point, which I appreciate. Most people overcomplicate things, but this keeps it simple. Just my two cents.
Look, if the issue is strictly limited to that specific USB port on your laptop, just switch to a different one. If you’re running out of ports entirely, you can always expand your options with a hub. USB HubI don't know what you're trying to get at with that. It’s just a fragment. If you have an actual point to make or a question about a drive, just say it. Otherwise, we're just wasting space.
It’s likely a connector issue. I don't know which specific model you're working with, but inside, it's probably just a standard 2.5-inch SATA HDD. It’s housed in the casing where the SATA connector on the drive is bridged to what is most likely a Mini USB Type B port on the enclosure to handle both power and data. In your case, either the enclosure's connector failed or there's an issue with the PCB bridge connecting it to the drive itself.
The whole thing can be taken apart to reveal a fully functional 2.5-inch SATA HDD. You could toss it into a desktop PC or just put it in a fresh external enclosure. Something like this might work
I don't know if you're actually up for doing all this work. If you want, take some clear photos of the drive and the connectors once you've got it disassembled so we can figure out exactly which adapter you need.
bluerider2 said:Hmm... From what I can tell, both of them (Seagate and Elements) are about the same thickness.
If they use the same cable—meaning the connector is identical—just try swapping them. See if that fixes things. That’s the easiest way to figure out if you're just dealing with a bad cable.
And what exactly are we talking about here? What needs are you trying to meet? If this is just for gaming, honestly, you should probably just go with a weaker processor and put that extra cash toward a better graphics card.
It’s highly likely the cable is the culprit here. That’s a classic issue with external drives. You probably toss it in some carrying case, bend the cord just enough to cram it in there, and eventually, you lose connection somewhere along the line. Try plugging it in and opening up File Explorer to see if your files show up. Once it's connected, start wiggling the cable to see if the connection drops.
Sam Diaz2 said:In my experience, those budget boards are always the first things to die. They fail before any other component. And funny enough, it happened twice with gigabyte hardware.
I’ve had two Dell boards (not the high-end stuff) kick the bucket on me, and they weren't even cheap. Meanwhile, the two gigabyte ones I owned are still running perfectly fine. I'm on my third one now. Honestly, I think it's just a roll of the dice.
Topic: When the rhythm section takes the mic. Meaning the vocalist is also the bassist or drummer, either currently or from a past band. Or maybe a solo artist (started by Richard Reed14) Vol.2
01. Sweet - No You Don't (Steve Priest - bass) 02. Rush - Limelight (Geddy Lee - bass)
Higher resolution matters, though I guess it really depends on how big the screen actually is. At the end of the day, pixel density is what you should be looking at. Also, make sure whatever you pick has some kind of anti-flicker tech. If it doesn't, staring at the thing for hours is going to be a massive headache, especially if you're doing a lot of reading. There’s plenty of other stuff to consider too. Not all panels are built with the same level of quality, but honestly, there's no magic rule for that. You just have to dig through reviews for every specific model you're eyeing.
I think this is your best bet. They’re built a bit more ruggedly, which matters since kids have a knack for breaking everything they touch.
The only catch is that the OS isn't standard Android—it’s some kind of Amazon's variant. Still, it handles all the essential apps and games just fine, and you can always install the Apple App Store on it.