I was recently working on a Windows reinstallation and made sure to move all my essential .txt files onto a separate hard drive, away from the main OS partition.
Now that the reinstall is finished, the system is flagging that entire folder as read-only.
Naturally, I went into the properties, unchecked the box, clicked apply, and selected "apply changes to this folder, subfolders and files" -then it asks for Administrator permission, so I just hit continue -it runs through the process, but the folders remain stuck in read-only mode :/.
I can't exactly manually copy the contents of every single file, considering we are looking at a total of 23,095 files and 3,753 folders here. I even tried copying the whole directory over to the C: drive (where Windows is installed) to see if I could uncheck the read-only attribute there... but it’s the same story. It goes through the motions, but nothing actually changes :/
I have no idea what on earth is causing this headache. To make matters worse, these files are absolutely critical to me. Manually gathering them from a thousand different locations would be an absolute nightmare, so I find it hard to believe I'm being blocked like this...
George Sanders37 said:I would strongly suggest going with a card that actually has an antenna. I used to have this one for a long time:
It worked perfectly fine when I was sitting just half a meter away through a single wall. However, once I moved my PC about 10 feet away behind several walls, the signal became a total disaster. The connection kept dropping constantly, and I was barely hitting 1.2 Mbps out of a possible 19 Mbps. Eventually, I picked up this:
And I am very satisfied with it. It solved every single issue I had with the nano card at that exact same desk location, so I highly recommend it.
Only grab a card without an antenna if you are absolutely certain nothing will block the signal (walls and cabinets can be quite deceptive)...
edit: if anyone else wants to weigh in, the card I recommended uses an Intel Wireless Chipset
Ock, I was actually wondering about that.
In the end, I ended up getting the exact one you mentioned... my only complaint is that I'm not a huge fan of its physical size...
I am currently searching for a suitable USB Wi-Fi adapter... My primary goal is to capture a signal that reaches all the way to my apartment hallway, which is roughly 15 feet away...
I am looking for something that strikes a balance between being budget-friendly and reliable. My main priority is stability; I really want to avoid any issues where the signal drops out during regular use...
While this happens to be the latest long-range device on the market, my primary concern remains centered on overall stability. (And if that specific unit proves to be superior, I may certainly have the opportunity to pick one up as well... $17)
Regarding that last one (the long-range model), the specifications state...
The operating system is compatible with Windows 7, Vista, XP, ME, 2000, and 98, as well as macOS and Linux...
It seems there is no mention of Windows 8 here. Does that imply it truly won't work on that operating system... 🙂
Perhaps I should also ask, what would you recommend within a price range of up to... $33?
Drew Allen77 said:You don't actually need an internet connection just to run the installation itself. However, it would certainly be beneficial to run the updates. Your best bet is to find an installer that already has the latest updates integrated; that way, once you finish installing, there will only be a few minor patches left to download...
I was wondering, how does one go about finding an installation file that already includes those integrated updates?
The last time I attempted to install Windows 7—which was actually my first time doing so—the system immediately started running updates right after the installation process finished. It felt like it went on forever... with endless automatic restarts over and over again.
I honestly thought my PC had fallen into some kind of infinite loop... but I decided to just let it run, and after a few hours, it finally wrapped things up. (That is, if you don't count the fact that a couple of days later, it decided it needed more updates, forcing me into another thirty minutes of waiting right when I desperately needed to get some work done...)
Now, I am facing another Windows 7 installation, but this time I don't have a reliable internet connection. I'm relying on a mobile hotspot where data is quite expensive. Is it worth proceeding with the Windows 7 installation without those updates, or without an internet connection entirely? Does the computer absolutely need web access to pull down necessary drivers?
Perhaps someone could provide similar insight regarding Windows 8.1? Is an internet connection required for that installation as well? And how does the licensing work with 8.1—is it still possible to bypass the activation, or is a legitimate license mandatory?
Robert Rodriguez2 said:www.newegg.com, when you're picking out your components, they actually offer a free assembly service. An i5 makes perfect sense if this machine is intended for long-term professional work without any heavy gaming involved.
This setup should be more than sufficient for both office tasks and some light, casual gaming...
Will an i5 bottleneck the graphics card? And what kind of upgrade options would I have down the road if I need them?
Since you are using this computer for work purposes, I personally wouldn't recommend opting for used components... 1 x ASUS A88XM-A, FM2+, Intel Core i7 (Bolton D4), DDR3, 4 slots 1 x Intel Core i7 A8-Series X4 7600 (3.8GHz,4MB,65W,FM2+) box 2 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1866MHz, CL10, Kingston Fury, HX318C10F 1 x Kingston SSD 120GB Kingston Fury, 2.5", SATA 3 6G 1 x TOSHIBA 1TB, 7200rpm, SATA 6 Gb/s, 32MB, DT01ACA100 1 x LG GH24NS DVD writer, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R ,8x DL , 40x CD-R 1 x Zalman T5 mini tower case. 170(W) x 427(H) x 348(D)mm. 1 x Spire Kepler Rev.2 cooler, 1156/775/FM1, 96.5×51×125 mm ,92mm 1 x Fortron 400W Power Supply, HEXA Plus 400, 12cm fan
$1219
If I may ask, where and how would be the most cost-effective way to purchase a configuration like this? Ideally, it would include assembly service, as I'm not particularly keen on building it myself...
Also, what are your thoughts on whether my specific requirements would notice a performance difference between an i5 and this particular processor? Does it generally make sense to upgrade to an i5...
Hehe... I am glad to hear it isn't messy, though I certainly need to re-examine things a bit more closely 🙂
As for my monitor, it is doing just fine—a 27'' LG... I don't have all the specific dimensions or angles at hand, but it is definitely the brightest spot in my setup 🙂
Anyway, would you all mind giving me some feedback on this configuration?
It is well put together, however, please keep in mind that there isn't much room for an efficient CPU upgrade on this particular platform.
If I were in your shoes, I would package it like this instead:
1x i5 4460 1x MSI H81M P33 1x CRUCIAL 8GB 1600 MHZ 1x OCZ ARC 100 120 GB SSD SATA 3 1x TOSHIBA 3,5 1TB SATA 3 1x LG DVD-RW SATA 1x FORTRON HEXA+ 400W 80+ ACTIVE 1x MS GRIFFIN MIDI ATX + 80 MM FAN
= $1363 including assembly and shipping.
- A noticeably stronger CPU, a more upgradable platform, and a faster SSD. - If needed, you can add a dedicated GPU later—the HD 4600 will suffice for now.
...and that comment refers to the configuration listed above from $1219 which was suggested here.
Robert Rodriguez2 said:Since you rely on this computer for your livelihood, I wouldn't recommend opting for used components... 1 x ASUS A88XM-A, FM2+, Intel Core i7 (Bolton D4), DDR3, 4 DIMM slots 1 x Intel Core i7 Kaveri A8-Series X4 7600 (3.8GHz, 4MB, 65W, FM2+) box 2 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1866MHz, CL10, Kingston Fury, HX318C10F 1 x Kingston SSD 120GB Kingston Fury, 2.5", SATA 3 6G 1 x TOSHIBA 1TB, 7200rpm, SATA 6 Gb/s, 32MB, DT01ACA100 1 x LG GH24NS DVD burner, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R, 8x DL, 40x CD-R 1 x Zalman T5 mini tower case. 170(W) x 427(H) x 348(D)mm. 1 x Spire Kepler Rev.2, cooler, 1156/775/FM1, 96.5×51×125 mm, 92mm 1 x Tron 400W Power Supply, HEXA Plus 400, 12cm fan
$1219
The motherboard features 4 RAM slots (of which I am using 2) paired with 1866 MHz memory. Since this is an APU-based platform—meaning the processor and graphics are integrated into the same chip—the graphics performance is directly tied to the system RAM speed, as there is no dedicated video memory... As for the rest, it’s essentially a decent value pick...
Thanks for the suggestion! However, I was wondering if having the processor and graphics integrated into a single chip is considered somewhat unreliable? If I were willing to budget a little extra, would it be worth investing in a dedicated graphics card?
I suppose that means for roughly $267 I'm getting both the CPU and GPU? Buying those components separately is quite a bit more expensive... so I'm starting to worry that this might be the main bottleneck of the build... or am I mistaken??
If I wanted to increase my budget to about $1500 to upgrade the CPU and GPU, along with the necessary power supply and cooling... what would a balanced configuration look like then?...
I should also mention that when I bought my last computer, the advice I received was never to skimp on the motherboard. The idea was to invest upfront so that once certain parts become outdated, I could simply swap them out for upgrades...
Now, looking back after nearly ten years, I’m starting to realize that logic doesn't quite apply to my situation. I am likely looking at keeping this next build for the next decade, and I am certainly not the type of enthusiast who spends all night fine-tuning hardware settings. While I definitely don't want the motherboard to be a bottleneck, I also have no intention of overspending on high-end features just to prepare for future tuning sessions that I probably won't even bother with...
I am considering a budget in the $3,000 to $5,000 range... though I would ideally prefer to land somewhere near $4,000.
While I am willing to let the price climb from $4,000 toward $5,000, I simply want to understand exactly what extra value those additional $333 dollars provide. It feels unwise to inflate the budget if I cannot clearly articulate how those specific components will actually improve my daily workflow 🙂
For context, my work involves heavy computer use, specifically keeping numerous browser windows open with a high volume of tabs... alongside using a text editor that frequently performs deep searches through massive directory structures. On top of that, I run Photoshop with quite a few layers... ...and I really need that part of the experience to be seamless. However, seeing as my current machine from 2006, running on an $1000, manages to handle these tasks reasonably well, I don't imagine a truly high-end build needs to be astronomical in price just to stay stable. Therefore, increasing the cost beyond my core requirements feels like a luxury, and I would only want to indulge in that luxury if I can justify it with a clear understanding of the benefits...
I am looking to acquire a more modern computer, as my current machine dates all the way back to 2006. I find myself torn between purchasing a brand-new system or searching through Craigslist.
If I were more tech-savvy, I would be able to perform my own risk versus savings comparisons when considering a used purchase from Craigslist. However, I lack that expertise; all those technical specifications and component names feel like complete gibberish to me.
I already know what I don't need: a monitor, speakers, a mouse, or a keyboard... I do know what I will require: Having 8GB of RAM wouldn't hurt. An SSD of 120/160 GB is an absolute necessity. An HDD of at least 500GB, though I notice that 1TB isn't significantly more expensive...
But once we reach the topics of the power supply, cooling, graphics cards, and processors... those are just empty numbers to me that I simply cannot decipher. Processor generations and graphics card tiers?? I have zero experience and no intuition regarding whether a newer generation actually offers good value for the money. I would simply like to stay within the "best-buy" category.
I won't be taxing the computer daily with heavy software, but if I occasionally venture into 3D modeling or video editing, I simply want the experience to be as smooth as possible. I don't wish to spend a fortune for that purpose, but as long as the performance gains justify the rising costs... I am certainly interested! Finding that optimized sweet spot where price meets performance... only someone knowledgeable can tell me where that lies.
It would also be wonderful if someone who keeps an eye on prices on Craigslist could suggest how much one might save by opting for these best-buy configurations via classified ads. If I go the used route, I would prefer a machine that is roughly a year old so that the warranty might still be valid...
Suppose I have a web service where I want to offer small perks to users in exchange for minor payments, perhaps up to $1.75 per transaction. I anticipate roughly 10 to 20 transactions daily, though I expect that number to climb over time.
Is it feasible to implement this without getting bogged down in excessive bureaucracy, legal red tape, or endless paperwork?
Furthermore, would it be possible—and relatively straightforward—to outsource this to a third party who already handles all the regulatory compliance in exchange for a commission? If that second option is viable and anyone is interested, please feel free to reach out via David Gomez6@gmail.com
Lisa Hernandez95 said:Regarding that first participant—they managed to get 4 out of 6 correct, but then they hit a wall once Slavoj Žižek came up; it took them four tries to finally figure him out. It all really depends on the specific set of questions, as they are somewhat random, so it just depends on what happens... Otherwise, it’s a bit of a waste if someone doesn't have anything more productive to occupy their time. 😍
According to the statistics I maintain, someone has actually played this 129 times, so clearly there are people who are just bored xd
swiftrider34 said:I just finished going through it, and it was quite fascinating. I am not entirely sure how much I should say without spoiling the experience for everyone else...
Beyond what is immediately obvious during the test, there are several other elements being presented to us. By the end, we get to see how we react to those subconscious images and sounds...
My results were exactly what they predicted would happen. I wonder if that is simply due to the way the test "brainwashes" you—the expected response feels almost too universal...
On another note, if anyone is interested in similar topics, here is a video. I saw it a while back, and this test reminded me of it...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyQjr1YL0zg
Yes, that's true, it reminded me of Brown as well...🙂
Here is another interesting little project for you all to play around with. If you decide to see it through to the end, please let me know how successful the final results turn out... I am quite curious to see what happens!! http://byzantiumtests.com/
Laura Davis44 said:Honestly, he’s just being dense now; he’s completely lost it. I tell him it's a woman, and he starts bringing up some random guy from a sitcom... what on earth? 😕
But he was actually close—his sister, Anja...
You must have missed something if he pulled his brother out of the identity of the person you were looking for...😁
They say there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers... so let's just assume he isn't asking any dumb ones... xd