Adam Moore3 said:Look, I get it’s basically the same crap, but if it were my rig, I’d probably just force it through BCLK and call it a day. But honestly, I don't know. 🤷 Why am I stuck buying a separate cooler for the 1600X? Also, is this Corsair model actually any good?
You don't even need to force an overclock on the non-X models; they're all unlocked. It's just that the 1600X has XFR, which is some kind of auto-overclocking thing AMD does that doesn't really matter to anyone.
Yeah, they exist, but crypto miners have basically vacuumed them all up. RX cards are way better for mining, so demand spiked and prices went through the roof—before the whole craze, you could snag an RX580 8GB for about $667. Now they're super hard to find. You could probably get by with a 1060 6GB, I guess, but you won't be doing anything crazy with it.
I don't think you'll need to mess with the voltage for 3.7ghz. Honestly, the 1600X is kind of a dud anyway, plus you're gonna have to go out and grab a separate cooler regardless.
You didn't mention which motherboard you're looking at, but honestly, any decent one should handle an i7 just fine. That Intel series tends to run a bit hot and pulls a fair amount of power, so even the budget boards usually support them.
An NVIDIA GTX 1080 would work too, and I guess you might actually get a pretty decent price if you sold that RX470 now.
Look, you don't care about these GPUs because they're garbage for actual gaming, but if you were a crypto miner, you’d probably find these old cards pretty tempting since the margins make sense. It's just basic supply and demand, I guess—miners are still hunting for these and paying crazy prices for them
He wasn't really suggesting you go out and buy a Coffee Lake build, just that grabbing a used i5 or i7 might let you ride out the current setup for a few more years. I guess there's no real need to jump to a new platform yet.
First off, maybe take a quick look at the capacitors on the motherboard and inside the power supply. They have a tendency to bulge or lose capacity, which causes all kinds of weird issues. As for the CPU, you could probably try testing it using just a single core.
Hardly think it's the CPU. I'd probably bet on the motherboard or the power supply instead... though I could be wrong, I guess. CPUs don't really just die like that very often.
What kind of lag are we even talking about? I wonder if it’s just your TV acting up. Have you actually checked your FPS with some software? Maybe try switching that TV over to "gaming" mode.
I guess I don't quite get why you're having issues, though. From what I've seen on YouTube, people seem to be running those just fine with a 750Ti—which is roughly where your GPU sits:
Regarding YouTube versus other sites—it really just comes down to the codec, the player, and your browser. My first thought is that those streaming sites for movies and shows probably still rely on stuff that hammers your CPU, whereas YouTube is a bit more "advanced." It supports HTML5 and hardware acceleration, so your browser can offload the work to your GPU instead of just taxing the processor.
Maybe play around with it a bit; see how much your CPU gets eaten up by one of those sites compared to YouTube. You could also use something like GPU-Z to track your graphics card temperature and see exactly how much load it’s actually taking on at any given moment.
It could be the motherboard, but I've got a hunch it might be the power supply. What PSU are you running, and how old is it?
It probably wouldn't hurt to crack it open, blow out the dust, and swap the thermal paste. Does the GPU have a fan, or is it passive? If it's passive, maybe it's just overheating while you're watching YouTube, which would freeze everything. You should probably repaste that too, since the old stuff usually turns into gum on those cards...
Beyond that, it’d be smart to grab a Hiren's BootCD or something similar to run a memtest and check the hard drive for any bad sectors.
So, I guess I'd make sure the hardware is actually solid first (temps, paste, HDD, RAM, etc.) before even bothering with software fixes, especially since these parts are pretty old...
Try booting the motherboard naked—just the board and CPU. You can leave everything else unplugged, including the front USB ports, LEDs, and keys (though you might want to keep the power button and that little speaker connected just in case). I guess it’s best to start without any RAM at all to see if the speaker gives you an error code or something. Also, maybe reset the BIOS to defaults first by pulling the battery or using the jumper.
GPU - roughly $833 (think GTX 1060 6GB or an RX 580 8GB) CPU - maybe around $567 (like a Ryzen 5 1600) Motherboard - about $267 (get one with a VRM heatsink and four RAM slots if you want decent features; you can find cheaper ones or go pricier, but this is probably the sweet spot for most people) RAM - ~$367 (16GB) or just half that for 8GB. Everything runs on 8, I guess, but if you're thinking about the future, it’s probably easier to just grab 16 right away Hard Drive - $133 or more, whatever you want—1, 2, 3, or however many TBs you need Power Supply - ~$150 Case - whatever you like, $67 or more SSD - optional, but honestly pretty much necessary. Maybe ~$150 for 120GB (just for the OS and apps) or ~$233 for 250GB (for the OS, apps, and a game or two)