Posts by Charles Stewart69

Zachary White19 said:From what I can gather, the IRS.gov system is basically there to verify all the data coming back from the transaction... since the SSN is generated locally on your own computer while the JIRA comes straight from the IRS servers. Depending on which software you're running, you might not even need that certificate because some programs don't bother checking it at all...

Yeah, the whole situation is just incredibly cryptic; you can't find anything concrete on the IRS websites, and even the software devs seem pretty clueless about it all. Some people are claiming it depends on which software platform you're using, while others are saying this is just some test certificate that’s supposed to turn into a live one early in 2017... blah, blah, blah. Basically, if we see a mountain of receipts piling up at the registers on November 11th without any JIRA attached, then it's obvious something went sideways with the certificates, so I'm just waiting until the morning of the 11th to see where I stand, and I'm definitely not installing this new certificate until then.

P.S. S. guessing there's going to be some major shake-up early next year because of certain interest groups tied to specific types of fiscalization software.

Nicole Lee6 said:Wait, where am I supposed to install this? On my PC? Within the specific software I use for tax reporting? Are the developers actually going to update their software to handle this, or is that on me? Honestly, sorry, I'm completely lost when it comes to this technical stuff.🙈

N/A, yeah, you gotta install the certificate right on your computer—it's the new tax certificate, I think they call it "IRS.gov"—and you really need to get it installed by November 11th, 2016. If you don't, the whole tax reporting system is probably just gonna lock you out on that day. Honestly, the exact same thing happened back in June. Installing the certificate is pretty much a breeze; you just double-click it and toss it into the Certificate Authorities folder and boom, you're good! But hey, if you aren't feeling confident about it, maybe just reach out to whatever developer wrote the software you're using. Cheers.

Jack Young said:You just handle the renewal online. It’s like renewing a driver's license through the DMV website—you definitely want to get it done before it actually expires.

So, following up on that, I've got a bit of a question: is it actually possible to go ahead and install the new IRS certificate before November 11, 2016? Thanks.

Nicole Lee6 said:I'm getting the exact same thing. My e-filing inbox is constantly blowing up with notifications warning me that some certificate is about to expire... I'm using Synesis and Fiskal1, and I'm just sitting here praying that the developers handle all this certificate nonsense behind the scenes... or are we actually expected to step in and fix this ourselves?!? 😲🤔

Look, those certificates usually last five years based on whatever you paid upfront, but the issuer can swap them out for a newer, better version whenever they feel like it. In a couple of days, the IRS is actually replacing their old certificate, so you'll probably have to manually install a new one that you can grab straight from their official website.

Henry Edwards33 said:Charles Stewart69, honestly, I’d give anything to work with actual professionals—people who actually plan ahead and know what they’re doing instead of just winging it... 🤣

My question was specifically about why those self-employment tax contributions aren't hitting yet, considering the deadline for the monthly filing is the 15th, and this month the 15th landed on a Sunday.

Your accountant must be a real genius 😉

I can't believe how much you love hearing yourself talk 🙄
Between the 4th and the 5th of the month 🙄

😁

I mean, who actually said you absolutely have to file that small business tax paperwork by the 15th? That's not really how it works for me; I just bundle it in with my regular employee payroll filings. Sure, those self-employment contributions are supposed to be settled by the 15th, but honestly, I've never heard a single soul complain if you get ahead of it and pay on the 10th or even earlier. So, if the 15th lands on a weekend, it doesn't really matter. Before they started linking those small business taxes directly to the main payroll filing, I’d usually just take care of them around the 10th or 12th of the month anyway.😉

p.s. Trying to grab two rabbits at once usually just means you end up with none.

So, I figured I’d jump in on this super interesting thread,

Is it actually doable for me to take my small business—which currently runs out of a storefront here in the States—and basically flip it over to a Walmart-style offshore entity while keeping everything running smoothly on American soil? Like, if I did that, who would I even be paying sales tax to? And how would my crew handle things like workers' comp or social security, or even just basic local stuff like trash pickup and utility fees? Given how much lower the taxes are over in the USA, this could be a massive win for my bottom line, but honestly, it feels like a total nightmare to pull off for a settled little shop with six employees.🤔

Henry Edwards33 said:What’s the deadline for filing my JOPPD regarding self-employment contributions?🕺

Hey Henry Edwards33, you should just bundle that stuff together with the payroll taxes and the actual worker wages. I actually told my accountant to just dump everything on me in one single transaction so I don't have to sit here constantly stressing over which bill I paid and when I paid it. Now, everything just hits my account around the 4th or 5th of the month and stays there. Honestly, looking at these tax forms feels like watching the return of the King—it’s like some epic, overwhelming saga unfolding right on my desk. It's enough to make a guy weep, seriously. 😁

Hey everyone,

So I’ve got a bit of a situation regarding my FARC card on the official government portal:

Up until now, I’ve been pretty diligent about keeping an eye on my debt and credit balance through that FARC card, but ever since they switched over the way my individual tax contributions—you know, Social Security and stuff—are handled via those new federal forms at the start of the year, I’ve totally lost track of where I stand. I can pull up the new form, sure, but all it shows me is a list of what I paid and when I paid it; it doesn't actually update my total balance or show if I owe anything. If they seriously killed the auto-updating feature just because they moved everything over to these new forms, then honestly, that’s just pathetic. It makes any potential debt feel completely cryptic again, like, I have no clue if the system thinks I still owe money and is just quietly stacking up late interest against me behind my back.

EDIT: Wait, I think I might have figured it out... it looks like they migrated everything to these different accounts, like moving the retirement funds over to account 2330... and so on. Am I on the right track here?

Aaron Young85 said:So, I was wondering if it’s actually true that small business owners aren't supposed to just pull cash straight out of their merchant account as an advance on their earnings? Like, am I hearing correctly that you have to transfer the funds over to your checking account first before you can even think about withdrawing anything? I guess I honestly just heard about this for the first time yesterday, so maybe I'm totally off base here... 🤦

Man, reading this gave me a good laugh because I was absolutely livid last year when I went to my local Chase branch to withdraw some cash and they slapped me with this massive fee just for wanting physical bills. I ended up hanging out on forums like this trying to figure out the legal way to move funds into checking first. So, look, you don't *have* to transfer it to checking, but it’s a smart move because the bank's fee for cash withdrawals is at least 0.19% plus a flat fee of at least $1.75, whereas if you just pull it from your checking account, it doesn't cost you a dime. Of course, you’ll still have to pay the bank a tiny bit for the online transfer to move that advance into checking (just a buck or two, whatever the fee is for domestic wire transfers).

p.s. I actually wanted to deposit a big stack of hundreds via my checking account too, since my bank hits me with the same ridiculous fees for cash deposits, but people on here convinced me it was probably better not to. 😁

Bottom line? Why would you even give those white-collar banking thieves a single cent of your hard-earned money? If the high fees piss you off as much as they do me, you might as well donate it to the Red Cross or hand it to a guy on the street corner.

p.p.s. I’m seriously considering unsubscribing from email statements altogether, especially since they charge $0.03 per item—honestly, what a total scam. They need to be taught a lesson. 😠

Thomas Diaz8 said:At the end of last year, I purchased a computer that's being recorded as a fixed asset for my small business. I'm wondering about the VAT treatment here—do we calculate and claim the full credit all at once, or am I supposed to book it incrementally alongside the depreciation over a two-year period?

Well, first off, if the value is under $1167 before taxes, it basically just counts as small equipment or office supplies, so you don't even need to worry about the heavy stuff.
As for the sales tax, yeah, you just book the whole thing—100 percent—depending on how much input tax you've got coming in from your own sales. For the depreciation, honestly, just pick whatever rate fits within the legal range. I'm not totally sure if the max rate for computers is capped at 50%, but I haven't really sat down to double-check the latest IRS guidelines lately.

Carol Price4 said:Basically, they take your annual tax from the previous year's filing, divide it by the number of months you were actually in business, and that becomes your monthly estimated payment for the current year.—pretty straightforward!

I mean, theoretically? Sure. But in the real world, things aren't exactly that smooth, if you know what I mean. The IRS isn't exactly going to just hand back a massive overpayment without a fight. If you want to bump your payments up because you're making more dough, they'll jump on that right after you file your annual return. But if you're trying to lower them... well, uhhh... that’s a whole different headache. You've got to submit a formal written request backed up by your full annual report—all your income, expenses, the whole nine yards. You can technically ask to lower those prepayments mid-year, but honestly, it’s usually way easier to just handle it when you're turning in your yearly taxes. I’m just speaking from what I see happening on the ground here in my neck of the woods, though I highly doubt it works any differently in other parts of the States.
Regardless of all that, you should probably hop onto your online IRS portal and check exactly how much they're asking for, just so you don't end up getting slapped with some annoying interest or penalties.

Brenda Chase3 said:You'll have to pay the difference, otherwise you're just inviting unnecessary interest charges. There's really no way around it.

Ugh, I know, that's literally why I added the smiley face. But honestly, even if I tried to dodge the difference, an IRS agent would probably be blowing up my phone within minutes telling me I've got a 24-hour window to cover the debt before they start seizing everything I own. 🙂

Kyle Rogers8 said:The healthcare surcharge is at 15% as of April 1st, 2014.
Logically, you'd pay the April obligation by May 15th, 2014—but if they drag their feet with the paperwork again, it might be later...
Either way, the payment in May (covering April) should reflect the 15% rate.

So, my new notice finally showed up in my mailbox yesterday, which means I already paid the April contributions using the old rates, and I won't be hitting them with the new amount until the May payment. Anyway, does that mean I can just leave the April stuff as is since I already settled it, or am I going to have to cough up the difference later? I mean, seriously, whose fault is it if they can't get the official notices sent out on time? 🙂

Henry Edwards33 said:You definitely shouldn't be moving earned income straight into a savings account under the guise of a deposit.
The actual earnings should go into the checking account first, then you move them to savings. I might have said a loan could work that way, but not direct income. Or maybe I’ve finally lost my mind. 😬
Advance payments on income can go directly into checking.
Jack Young, are you dealing with income or capital gains? I can't quite remember. It sounds like you're talking about income, but you keep using the term capital gains... 🤔
I'm still around, even if I haven't been an active moderator for a while now. 😉

So, I was waiting on a response from the Treasury Department... and instead, I just got a cookie. 😁

Whatever, I guess I’ll just have to scrap my idea of running everything through the checking account for now. It’s driving me absolutely insane how much they charge in fees for cash deposits, and don't even get me started on those ridiculous overnight vault deposit options—the fee is barely lower than what they'd charge you at a Chase teller window. 😠

P.S. You're right, I am technically an income earner, but whatever I pay myself is essentially "profit." If I wasn't pulling profit out of this business, we'd be filing for Chapter 11 bankruptcy by now. 😁

amberbadger17 said:That idea about transferring funds from the business account to a personal one is solid. I mean, didn't amberbadger17 mention once that when she couldn't make it into the bank, she just zipped some cash over to her personal account as a deposit? Granted, that was ages ago, and what Unicom is saying is more recent... but they're probably spot on.

By the way, whatever happened to Lili P.? Is she still moderating?

P.S. Obviously it's a good move. Look, I've been running my own business since early 2013, so I tend to watch every single cent that moves, and honestly, it’s started driving me absolutely nuts seeing all my hard-earned dollars just drifting straight into the pockets of big bank executives for nothing. For that kind of money, I could buy a top-of-the-line high-end fridge every single year instead of letting those corporate suits pad their wallets for zero reason. 😠
Anyway, I went ahead and sent an inquiry to the Department of the Treasury to get their official take on this, because I really don't see any issue with monitoring the flow of funds. They already have access to everything through my SSN—they can see all my accounts, whether it's checking or savings—so there’s zero room for shady business; everything is totally transparent. Plus, I'll just specify the type of transaction being made. From my perspective, as someone actually doing the work, I don't see a single problem with it.

rowdyhawk25 said:None of them work. Here’s the breakdown of what gets deposited directly into your checking account versus what you can actually pull out in cash:

The latest updates to the Internal Revenue Code, which were recently published in the Federal Register, have brought about a whole series of significant changes. For anyone managing day-to-day business operations, there are a few key shifts you really need to have on your radar right now. I’ve put together a quick rundown of the most essential updates below to help you stay ahead of the curve, but if you want to dive deep into the full technical breakdown of every single amendment, you should definitely check out the FBI 7/13 report for the complete details.
Since July 5, 2013, we've seen a total shift in how payouts are handled—whether you're looking at direct deposits into checking accounts or receiving cash upfront.
Checking account vs. savings account: which one should you actually be using?
When you look at the breakdown of what counts as taxable income under the Internal Revenue Code, there are several key categories to keep in mind. We’re talking about standard wages, entrepreneurial income, and any compensation received by seconded employees. You also have to account for the stipends or fees paid to members of representative or executive boards for their service on those bodies—basically, any income derived from non-independent employment as outlined in Section 14.
Dividends and profit shares—this includes any tax-exempt amounts as well. $4.00 When you're looking at your annual returns, you really have to pay close attention to interest—specifically those capital gains under the Internal Revenue Code.
When you're looking at life insurance or voluntary pension plans, you have to keep a close eye on how those payouts are treated under the Internal Revenue Code. Specifically, when you start receiving benefits from these types of policies, they fall under certain sections regarding taxable income that you really need to account for.
Income derived from the alienation of financial assets.
The compensation for buying back secondary raw materials and scrap metal that qualifies as personal property is strictly capped. $0.53 Monthly breakdown by individual payer.
When you're working through student associations or campus organizations while pursuing your degree, that income is generally treated as part of your standard earnings. Basically, any money you pull in from those types of roles is considered taxable income under the Internal Revenue Code.
Financial aid and scholarships for students pursuing regular education—covering everything from high school through vocational training and four-year universities—are available up to... $0.53 Monthly.
We’re talking about those specific types of scholarships designed to actually cover the real-world costs of getting an education—I mean the heavy hitters like tuition, commuting, housing, groceries, textbooks, and even health insurance.
When we talk about athletic scholarships, people often overlook just how massive the opportunities are here in the States. We aren't just talking about a little help with tuition; we’re talking about life-changing financial coverage that can carry you all the way through a degree at a major university. Whether you're looking at a powerhouse program in the SEC or a solid Division II school, those athletic stipends can cover everything from full tuition and room and board to books and even a monthly living allowance. It’s one of the few ways high-level athletes can essentially graduate debt-free while playing the sport they love. If you have the talent, the door is wide open, but you have to be aggressive about pursuing those recruitment paths early on. $0.53 Monthly.
When it comes to those big awards for athletic excellence—you know, the ones celebrating major sporting achievements—we really need to talk about the limits on prize money. There’s always that debate about how much is too much when we're honoring the best of the best in American sports. $6.75 Annual.
When it comes to amateur athletes, there’s a lot of confusion surrounding how much compensation they can actually receive without running into trouble with the IRS. It’s a fine line, but if you play your cards right, you can accept certain stipends and reimbursements for expenses without them being flagged as taxable income. Essentially, as long as those payments are strictly covering things like travel, equipment, or training costs—rather than acting as a "salary" for playing—you're generally on solid ground. However, once those amounts start looking like a paycheck for services rendered, the Internal Revenue Code steps in, and that's when you have to start reporting it. It really comes down to whether the money is a reimbursement for an out-of-pocket cost or a reward for performance. If you aren't careful about documenting everything, you could end up with a headache during tax season. $0.53 Every single month.

2. Holding Cash (Bills and Coins):
Let’s talk about retirement. It’s one of those topics that everyone avoids until they suddenly realize they aren't getting any younger, and then it becomes the only thing on their mind. Honestly, when you look at how things are shifting, it feels like we need to have a much more serious conversation about what our golden years are actually going to look like. I feel strongly that we can't just rely on the old ways of thinking. We need to be proactive. You can't just sit around hoping the system stays exactly as it is today and somehow works perfectly for you thirty years from now. That's not a plan; that's a prayer. We need real, concrete strategies to ensure that when we finally decide to hang it up, we aren't just scraping by. It’s about dignity, it's about freedom, and frankly, it's about being smart enough to prepare for the reality of inflation and changing economic landscapes right here in the States.
You know, there’s a specific category of tax-free compensation that often gets overlooked in these discussions—things like pay received during periods of temporary unemployment or when someone is legally prevented from working. It also covers stipends for those serving in civil defense roles or receiving pay during military training exercises. Under the current rules, these aren't treated as taxable income.
If you’re a non-resident picking up prizes from sports, arts, or any other type of competition held here in the States, and the winner isn't clearly defined or specified in advance, you need to be mindful of how that plays out with the Internal Revenue Code. It can get a bit complicated when the prize structure is open-ended like that.
When it comes to income earned by kids from seasonal gigs—you know, those summer jobs or holiday rushes—it’s important to stay on top of how that plays into your tax situation.
When you look at what the IRS actually considers non-taxable income, there’s quite a bit of relief available if you know where to look. We're talking about things like social welfare benefits, child allowances, and those specific cash grants meant to help with newborn supplies. It also covers disaster relief payments following major natural disasters, interest earned on certain types of domestic savings accounts, survivor benefits, and various government awards. Basically, under Section 9, these are all receipts that aren't classified as taxable income.
Rewarding students during their internships is such a crucial part of the process, but we need to talk about how we actually handle those incentives. It shouldn’t just be a "thanks for the coffee" kind of deal; if you want to truly motivate them and build a pipeline for future talent, the compensation and recognition need to feel substantial. We should be looking at structured performance bonuses or even small stipends that reflect the actual value they bring to the table. When an intern feels like their work is being properly acknowledged, they engage on a much deeper level. It turns a simple learning experience into a serious professional stepping stone. $0.53 When you look at what’s exempt from taxes under the Internal Revenue Code—specifically those items that don't count toward your taxable income—there are a few key categories to keep in mind. We're talking about monthly stipends, awards given to students for winning competitions, and even compensation paid out for damages resulting from workplace accidents. These are all types of receipts that, according to the law, simply aren't subject to income tax.
Let’s break down what we can actually write off when it comes to business travel, commuting, and those gifts for your kids. It’s easy to get tripped up on where the line is drawn between a legitimate deduction and something the IRS is going to flag immediately. First off, business travel is a major one. If you’re heading out of town for work—meaning you’re away from your "tax home" overnight—you can generally deduct your airfare, hotel stays, and even a portion of your meal costs. Just remember, this isn't about upgrading to first class just because you can; it’s about the reasonable costs of getting the job done. If you're driving your own car instead of flying, you can either track every single receipt for gas and maintenance or, much more simply, take the standard mileage rate. Most people find the mileage rate way easier to manage. Now, be very careful with commuting. This is the biggest trap people fall into. Generally speaking, the cost of getting from your house to your regular office is considered a personal expense, not a business deduction. The IRS is pretty strict here: commuting is just part of life. However, if you're traveling from your primary office to a client site or a different branch, that counts as business travel, not commuting. There is a distinction, and knowing it can save you a massive headache during audit season. Lastly, let's talk about gifts for your kids. I know we all want to spoil them, but from a tax perspective, you have to be realistic. You can't just write off a new PlayStation or a trip to Disneyland as a business expense. Business gifts are usually limited to a specific dollar amount per person per year under the current tax laws. If you're trying to claim a gift to your child as a business deduction, you're likely headed for trouble unless there is a very specific, documented business reason that holds water. Stick to the rules here so you don't end up paying more in penalties than the gift was worth in the first place. $200 Annual bonuses and holiday perks can go up to... $833 When you look at the breakdown of employee benefits, you have to account for everything from annual bonuses—like Christmas bonuses or those year-end performance incentives—to tax-exempt severance packages and service anniversary awards. Then there’s the specialized stuff, like field pay or maritime allowances, and even compensation for remote assignments or living away from home. All of these non-taxable reimbursements, subsidies, and worker rewards fall under the specific guidelines outlined in Article 13 of the Internal Revenue Code.
When it comes to those tax-free reimbursements for work-related expenses—specifically when you're looking at things like equipment or remote office setups—it really all boils down to how you navigate the Internal Revenue Code. It’s one of those areas where people often get tripped up because they think the rules are more flexible than they actually are. If you want to make sure these payments don't trigger an unexpected headache from the IRS, you have to be incredibly diligent about documentation. You can't just throw around cash for "office supplies" and call it a day; there needs to be a clear, legitimate business connection for every single cent. I’ve seen so many people try to blur the lines between personal perks and actual job requirements, and let me tell you, that is a recipe for disaster if you ever get audited. The key is to stay organized. If your employer is providing these allowances, they need to be structured properly under current tax laws to ensure they remain non-taxable. It’s not just about having the money; it’s about having the paper trail to prove that this wasn't just a hidden way to give someone a tax-free bonus. Stick to the rules, keep your receipts, and always make sure what you're claiming is a bona fide necessity for your role. It might feel like extra homework, but it is absolutely worth the peace of mind. $0.53 Once the election results are officially certified, things are going to start moving fast.
When you're looking at how to handle payments for buying back scrap metal or recycled materials that qualify as personal property, you have to be really careful about how you categorize those payouts for tax purposes. If you're running a business, you can't just treat these buybacks like any other transaction; there are specific rules regarding how this income is reported and how the value is assessed to ensure everything stays square with the IRS. It’s all about making sure the distinction between commercial inventory and individual personal assets is crystal clear so you don't run into any unnecessary headaches during an audit. $0.53 monthly per individual payer,
• the agreed-upon daily wage for seasonal agricultural workers.

3. Checking Account:
• personal transfers received as gifts for medical expenses,
• miscellaneous other income,
• income from self-employment.

Thanks for clearing that up.

So, theoretically—and I might be totally misreading how this all works—I could just open a personal checking account and have my profit distributions or draws sent there? I mean, I guess that would only make sense if the fees they hit me with for cash withdrawals or those annoying online banking transfers (like moving money from my personal account back to the business one) aren't higher than the massive fees they already slam me with just for being a business entity.

rowdyhawk25 said:I can either grab the cash on the spot or just have it wired straight to my checking account.

So, about this whole cash vs. checking account thing...

Since big banks like Chase or Bank of America keep hiking those annoying fees for basically anything involving physical cash—you know, like hitting the teller window to deposit or withdraw stuff—I've been brainstorming ways to dodge those ridiculous service charges. I was thinking maybe I could just deposit my contractor payments directly into my personal checking account, and then also wire any down payments I get from clients from my business account over to my personal one. Since there aren't usually those pesky transaction fees for digital transfers or using an ATM with your debit card, I figured I could save maybe $50 a month, which adds up to something like $600 a year, I guess.$1333

Are there any legal hurdles if I just move my contractor pay through my personal checking? Like, what if I put the money in my personal account and then use online banking to send it straight to my business account, keeping everything totally clean?

Also, can I just transfer a client's down payment to my personal account and then just go grab the cash from an ATM?😍

Is there even a chance one of these moves works without getting flagged by the IRS?

analogwalker2 said:So, here’s the deal—the title says the DVD drive won't open, but there's a catch: it only refuses to budge when the tray is empty! If there's actually a disc inside, everything works flawlessly. It’s just... well, it's incredibly annoying! I constantly find myself having to keep something sharp nearby just to poke the tray open—can you believe that? Despite this little quirk, it plays and burns discs perfectly fine without a single hiccup. This has been going on for over six months now, but I figured, why not ask the experts on this forum if there’s a fix that doesn't involve just buying a brand-new DVD drive? Honestly, if I take it to a repair shop just to get a diagnosis, they'll probably charge me half the price of a new unit anyway! If there isn't a simple cure, I guess I'll just keep poking at it until it finally gives up the ghost entirely.

I mean, seriously, is it really such a huge deal to just keep a paperclip on your desk? 😁
I remember dealing with an LG unit once that used to screw with me—it wouldn't open if it was empty—and now I've got this Samsung one that's doing the exact same thing after only a year or two of use. I guess the opening mechanism just gets weak over time or something. Right now, my workaround for the Samsung is basically mashing the "Open" button five or six times before it finally gives in. Maybe you could try triggering the software command via Eject from Ner / Ashampoo? For me, hitting Eject usually pops it right open on the first try.

Hey everyone,

So, I totally missed out on all those summer sales, which kind of sucks because now I’m stuck hunting for an external drive—something at least 500GB or maybe a bit more if I can swing it. It looks like Western Digital bumped up their prices recently, so I've been scouting around for other options instead. I stumbled upon some decent deals on a few different brands: Toshiba, Transcend, HP, and Prestigio. My big question for you guys is, does anyone actually have any real-world experience with these specific brands? Like, if you were in my shoes, which one would you actually trust enough to grab?
Thanks.

Someone was bringing up some issues regarding background processes and how much they were dragging down their PC performance...
So, I found this pretty handy little tool for checking out everything currently running on your machine. If I recall correctly—it’s been a minute since I actually messed around with it—I think it flags anything suspicious in red, and then uses purple for the stuff that’s basically a total nightmare for your security (not like we wouldn't recognize those if they popped up, right 😬). Anyway, it’s a solid little utility to have in your back pocket. Besides just the Process Explorer, there’s a bunch of other interesting utilities available on that site too.

http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/s.../bb896653.aspx