Posts by Jamie Lopez19

I installed the network card and it’s up and running now. 👍

I downloaded Linux Mint and flashed it to a thumb drive using BalenaEtcher, but now I’m hitting a wall trying to boot from the USB. When I hit F12, I get that menu with USB-FDD, USB-ZIP, USB-CDROM, and USB-HDD, but regardless of which one I pick, the system just bypasses it and boots straight into Windows like nothing happened. I’ve tried plugging the drive into different ports—both the front and the back—but no luck. I honestly have no clue what I’m doing wrong here. Is there some specific setting in the BIOS I need to tweak to make this work?

For context, the motherboard is a G31MX-S2 and it has integrated LAN.
To save myself all this headache, would it be feasible to just grab an old network card from a buddy or buy a new one? Is that even a viable workaround?

Edit: I finally managed to boot into Linux Mint, but it's just a black screen with an 'x' and absolutely nothing works.

https://forums.techguy.org/threads/n...1258017/page-2

I actually started a thread over on an international forum, so if anyone wants to follow along, I’ll be digging much deeper into the solution over there.

Alright, I'm going to give the live Linux approach a shot. I'll track down a tutorial to get everything flashed onto a USB drive.

Since my old router kept dropping the connection, the technician swapped it out for a new mobile router (a ZTE MF283V), and honestly, the only real difference is that this one lets you tweak the MTU and MSS settings—I’ve set them to 1430 and 1390. The swap itself took maybe a minute, but ever since the new unit went live, my PC has been stuck showing a red "X" on the network icon. The internet works perfectly fine on every other computer and all the Wi-Fi devices; everything is rock solid except for this one specific machine. I’ve already swapped the Ethernet cable, performed multiple factory resets, tried the whole `ipconfig /flushdns` and `renew` routine, and even nuked the network configuration from the registry, but nothing sticks. I checked the BIOS, and while the onboard LAN hardware shows as enabled, hitting enter on "Smart LAN" just displays "link detected 1Gbps, cable length less than 10m." The LEDs on both the PC and the router indicate a physical connection, yet that red "X" persists. Is this a hardware failure, or am I looking at some kind of software glitch? I’d rather fix this myself before I call in the pros. I still need to try plugging into a neighbor's router to isolate the issue, but the tech already hauled away the old unit once he saw the new one was up. Interestingly, when I tether my phone via USB, the internet works flawlessly. Any advice is appreciated; this situation is genuinely baffling to me.

It was throwing code 10 in Device Manager for the network adapters. After a reboot, the network adapters disappeared from Device Manager entirely, and now when I run the troubleshooter, Windows claims it can't find a driver for the network adapter.

Oh, interesting. So we're talking about the HD 520, right?
Anyway, I really dig it. Honestly, it looks like the perfect fit.
I'm definitely picking it up. Thanks! 😉

Hi there. I am looking to pick up a laptop by $833 that will primarily handle web browsing, Word and Excel, multimedia, and some light gaming—think stuff like Counter-Strike, Call of Duty, or Battlefield Online. I was wondering if this would be a decent choice:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/acer-aspire-v3...rce=nabava.net

I already have a dedicated gaming rig at home, but since I haven't been around much lately, I need a portable machine for general tasks with the occasional game thrown in here and there. Would something like this actually be viable or worth the money? Or should I just stick to something strictly for basic productivity so I don't have to worry about performance issues later on?

Christian Torres3 said:There is a 99.9% chance that GPU just gave up the ghost. Honestly, find a buddy who builds PCs and have them swap in a different card just to test it. If you take it to a repair shop, you’ll likely just end up paying a technician to tell you exactly what you already know.

Actually, yeah. I'll try swapping in a different one at a friend's place first to see if that works.. 🙂

It’s some kind of NVIDIA card with about 128MB of VRAM—I can't be certain of the exact model because the display is shot. This machine is strictly a workstation for document storage and processing; I’ve never once messed with the BIOS, attempted any overclocking, or touched any other settings. My plan is to pull the card out myself first, but if that doesn't fix the issue, I'll just drop it off at a local repair shop.🙂

Graph

He let it run once and then just cut out on me. I tried swapping in a different monitor and a different cable, but nothing works—it's the exact same issue.
Yeah, the PC boots all the way up to the desktop.

Greetings. I encountered a rather peculiar issue during startup today. Upon booting, the pixels look completely distorted, triggering that automatic Startup Repair sequence. It runs for a moment, shuts down, and then eventually boots normally—but the display remains utterly garbled. Does anyone have any insight into what might be causing this?

http://www.postimg.org/image/r8y1b1tf5

Edit: I'm currently on my phone and unable to paste links properly, so here it is..

Ah, thank you! It's finally working now.

I manually added a new account and I can send emails just fine, but incoming messages aren't working at all. I tried running the send/receive test and absolutely nothing happens—even when I try sending a test email to myself. A buddy of mine suggested I might need to tweak my inbox settings, but honestly, I have no clue where to start. Does anyone have any ideas?

I'm using AT&T, and I’m certain I configured the POP3 settings correctly, so that shouldn't be the issue. (pop.att.net)

Alright, thanks. 😁

P.S. I’m replying from my brother's computer because he was already logged into the forum...

I’ll most likely just go with the PC then. Thanks, crimsonstag84. 👍

I do have one question, though. I noticed there isn't an aftermarket cooler listed, which implies it isn't necessary here? I've seen most AMD builds you guys post include extra coolers.

Timothy Kim60 said:I’m assuming there’s a contract extension tied to this? If the terms look good to you, just grab it. Just a heads up: whenever Verizon hands out these drives, they tend to be absolute junk. You’re better off checking the dedicated Verizon thread.

Yeah, I'm planning on renewing my contract, and they're offering this along with a new phone. That's why I wanted to check here and see if this is actually a decent HDD. Does it really matter that it isn't 7200rpm? Thanks for any insight. 😉

Hey everyone, sorry if this is a bit off-topic—I didn't want to start a whole new thread just for one quick question. I’ve got a single inquiry: my ISP is offering me this specific hard drive for an extra $33 click
. Is it actually worth pulling the trigger on this, or should I pass? Also, does the fact that it's only 5400rpm actually matter?

graniteharbor85 said:Why would you bother picking stuff up at local shops when you're just going to get hit with worse quality or higher prices? It’s simple math. They deal with fewer suppliers, or more often, just one. That means they don't get the bulk discounts you'd see elsewhere, so they hike up the margins—they have to make their money on a single sale instead of moving high volume like a big retailer 😁. Plus, the selection of HW is usually pretty pathetic.

It's the truth. I checked, and half of these parts aren't even in stock, so I'm just going to order everything from Future Electronics. 😁
Thanks again. Take it easy 😉

Timothy Kim60 said:I honestly think most people who walk into a retail store just get played by the clerk. They’ll tell you a low-end power supply is actually top-tier, or convince you to settle for some overpriced, mediocre GPU. At the end of the day, people just end up stuck with whatever subpar gear they were talked into. I’ve seen plenty of people venting about this online.

Jamie Lopez19, just click the links, throw them in your cart, and buy your stuff online without letting anyone manipulate you. You'll realistically come out ahead by a massive margin.

Yeah, I see it now. I'll probably just ask them about the price, but honestly, it looks like I'll just order from Amazon instead.🙂

Larry Ortiz5 said:As for the DVD or optical drive, just grab whatever is the cheapest one available.

Alright 😁
Thanks for the help, everyone. Tomorrow I'm going to take this Google configuration over to a few local shops, like Best Buy or Micro Center, to get some quotes on the total cost. I'll throw in an optical drive and a few other bits too, then compare their prices against what I can find at a place like Amazon to see where I get the best deal. 😁

Peace out hah