Posts by Rachel Fox4

I am looking to connect my new MacBook Air, which features two USB-C ports, to my older iMac. If I recall correctly, the video input on the iMac is limited to Thunderbolt. My goal is to use the iMac as a display for the MacBook Air.

While many USB-C hubs offer an HDMI output, that would still require an additional HDMI to Mini DisplayPort or Thunderbolt adapter. I don't view that as a reliable solution, especially since there is a significant chance it simply won't work.

What would be the most effective way to achieve this?

wanderingbison9 said:And why not?

The issue is they aren't really a retail computer shop; they act more like a distributor. Getting in touch can be a headache, prices often end up being higher than at other retailers, and dealing with warranty claims or returns can be a struggle.
It wouldn't be my first choice, but it doesn't matter if their offer is actually good.

Does anyone else have any suggestions?

So, what do we think about this setup? 😁

Here is what I am looking at:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-32-inch-curved-lcd-monitors

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/desktop-computers/extian-gy7-6

I honestly have no idea why I am even browsing Best Buy right now. 😬

Investing heavily in a high-end monitor often yields diminishing returns.
You could easily drop $1,000 just on a display, but it doesn't make much sense if the final product is destined for print or if people are just viewing it on a greasy smartphone screen.
My main priority is finding an IPS panel that performs at least slightly above average.

wanderingbison9 said:What are the standard resolutions typically used for raw footage versus the final project or export settings?

I would argue that the processor is the more critical component here. Adobe software is notoriously poor at utilizing the GPU, so you'll rarely see it fully saturated. While its CPU efficiency is also quite underwhelming, you can mitigate that somewhat by adjusting settings—for instance, allowing After Effects to render more frames simultaneously.

I am aware that on older Macs with integrated graphics, a lot of tasks either fail to run entirely or perform incredibly slowly because the system is forced to rely on the CPU. Because of that, having a solid dedicated graphics card is essential. This holds true for both Photoshop and Premiere Pro as well.

I’d suggest looking for a 4K monitor, ideally at least 27 inches. While having a solid DCI-P3 color gamut is important, you don't necessarily need to drop the cash on a high-end professional graphics monitor.

Something like this would be ideal. If I recall correctly from what I read somewhere, this model covers about 90% of the DCI-P3 color gamut.
If you're looking at curved monitors on Mall, specifically those 32-inch models, there's quite a bit to consider before hitting that buy button. A screen that size offers a lot of real estate, which is great for productivity, but the curvature changes the whole experience depending on what you're doing. For creative work—say, if you're spending most of your day inside Adobe Creative Cloud or working with color-sensitive assets in Photoshop—you really need to prioritize color accuracy and panel quality. I always suggest checking the color gamut coverage, like whether it hits certain percentages of Adobe RGB or DCI-P3, to ensure what you see on screen matches your final output. Also, make sure the panel is an IPS type if you want consistent viewing angles; otherwise, you might find the colors shifting as you move your head. If your workflow leans more toward video editing in Premiere Pro or DaVinci Resolve, having that extra screen space is a lifesaver for your timelines. However, just keep in mind that a heavy curve can sometimes distort straight lines in a way that might bother you during fine detail work. It’s worth comparing different brands and specs carefully. Don't just look at the resolution; check the refresh rate if you plan on doing any gaming on the side, and look into the connectivity options. It's all about finding that sweet spot between immersion and professional precision.

Adobe Creative Cloud

Hello!
I don't personally track current component pricing or local stock levels, so I am looking for some recommendations for a professional workstation dedicated to photo and video editing. My budget is roughly $15,000 $0.00. I will also need a monitor included, though I don't require any peripherals or Windows
. Ideally, I would prefer a pre-built configuration or a shop that offers professional assembly services
. Regarding the monitor, there are plenty of options out there; I wouldn't mind an ultrawide setup, provided it isn't a gaming-centric model with high refresh rates
. Thank you!

wanderingbison9 said:Well, you pretty much answered your own question regarding the PS2. I was under the impression that the adapter would convert the signal to progressive. Since that Samsung monitor lacks an HDMI port and seems to be a bit older, its resolution is likely lower than 1080p—probably just single-link DVI as well. Given that it’s clearly PC-centric, it makes total sense that it wouldn't support standard TV video signals, let alone modern 4K...

The camera was designed specifically for a PC monitor rather than a television.
It features a variable output. Almost everything can be adjusted, though it's nearly impossible when you can't see the on-screen menu. I'll try configuring the settings on a TV first, then move it over to the monitor to see if that does the trick.

The argument about the resolution being too high doesn't quite hold up; I can force a 4K signal through my PC, so it should work. Besides, I mentioned the variable output capability specifically for that reason. It ought to function on monitors with lower resolutions as well.

wanderingbison9 said:The camera might be outputting a 50 Hz signal, which a lot of monitors simply won't recognize. I'd suggest checking that and switching the HDMI output to 60 Hz. You could be running into the same issue with the PS2, especially since you're running through two different adapters.

The PS2 HDMI converter outputs a 480i signal, and either the monitor can't handle the upscaling or, more likely, it just doesn't support interlaced video at all.

On the other hand, the camera has a 48MP sensor, so it should be pushing a 4K signal. It only has an on-screen menu, which I can't see for obvious reasons.

The monitor seems to be detecting some kind of input because the screen stays black without showing a "no signal" notification.

I have an older Samsung 2043 BW monitor equipped with both VGA and DVI inputs.
When I connect my laptop using an HDMI cable paired with a DVI-to-HDMI adapter, everything works perfectly fine.
However, when I attempted to hook up my PlayStation 2 using an HDMI adapter, I couldn't get any picture at all, even though it displays just fine on my TV.
I also tried connecting an HDMI camera today, but again, there's no signal.
To rule out potential hardware issues, I tested a digital camera via an HDMI cable, and that produces a clear image without any trouble. 😵

When there is no active signal, the monitor automatically cycles between analog and digital modes. I thought perhaps manually selecting the input signal from the menu might help, but unfortunately, that didn't solve anything.

Does anyone have any insight into what might be causing this issue?
Essentially, the monitor functions normally across both signal types, yet it refuses to recognize the PlayStation 2 or the HDMI camera.

James Harris16 said:You might find thread and needles at a sewing supply store, I suppose.

It really doesn't exist. I checked at a specialty shop, but they don't carry it. Honestly, I don't even know the name of the place well enough to try ordering it online.
I suppose I could order from China, but by the time it actually arrives and after customs takes their massive cut—no thanks.

Wiki

Where can I pick up some of that slightly thicker elastic, like the kind used at the bottom of a jacket to cinch the waist? I’m not even sure what the technical term is. To me, elastic cord feels like something else entirely.

Thanks for the help, you can lock this thread now.

I am looking for a hard drive for my PlayStation 2.

Since I am not entirely sure how much I will end up using it, I would prefer to keep the total cost of the setup as low as possible. I have spent far too much time researching trays, brackets, and all those extra components, so I could really use some guidance.

The PlayStation 2 uses a 3.5" drive bay. Since the connectors are fixed in place, we really need to be careful about fitment.

I currently have an old Verbatim 2.5" 250 GB drive from an old AT&T device that I might be able to repurpose, and then perhaps buy a second one specifically for backups.

Essentially, I need a drive and the simplest possible way to connect it to my PC for data transfers.

Because speed isn't a priority for me, I am leaning toward something with low power consumption and low operating temperatures. I was thinking about getting a 2.5" drive paired with a cheap enclosure or adapter to plug into my PC. However, that would require a 3.5" to 2.5" adapter bracket, which is tricky because the mounting points must be millimetre-perfect due to those fixed connectors.

A 3.5" drive requires more power, so connecting it to a PC would likely necessitate an external power supply. If there is a way to avoid that, I am certainly open to the idea. To be clear, I cannot simply plug the disk directly into the PC
without some sort of interface, 😁 even though that would definitely be the ideal solution.

I have been looking at this kind of thing along with a bracket and, of course, the drive itself.

This is what the PlayStation 2 drive bay looks like.

I just found out today that what many people thought was a glitch in Photoshop is actually just a hardware limitation.
Long story short, there is a very strong possibility that if you pick up that laptop, Photoshop simply won't run for you.
In my opinion, that pretty much settles the debate.

Justin Davis75 said:Hey everyone, so I’m just starting to dive into the world of Windows, and seeing this deal pop up... I wanted to ask the folks here who actually know their stuff. Is everything really "all good" with this offer? My only real concern is that it doesn't have those special accented characters on the keyboard.
It’s a bit cheaper than what I usually see... honestly, it’s a decent deal. I just need something for my everyday routine and running Photoshop, which I've already tested out, and it runs absolutely flawlessly on a Mac.

EDIT: I think this one might struggle a bit... I’ve got more faith in the Pro model for this kind of work.

I was looking at this MacBook Air listing online—you know, the one with the 128GB storage—and it got me thinking about how much space we actually need these days. It’s kind of like buying a compact car when you realize you have a massive garage full of gear; you might fit, but things get cramped fast. It’s funny how we prioritize these things. You see a deal that looks decent on paper, maybe a little bit like finding a used Ford F-150 at a great price, and you think, "Yeah, this works." But then you start downloading a few large files or some heavy software, and suddenly that 128GB feels more like a tiny studio apartment in Manhattan when you were expecting a house in the suburbs. Anyway, just a random thought while browsing. Sometimes the specs on the screen don't tell the whole story of how you'll actually live with the device every day.

Thanks.

Photoshop does NOT run incredibly well on a mac.*
Especially on an older CPU with integrated graphics and only 128 GB of storage, which you'll fill up before you even get to work.

The laptop itself is too small for comfortable use, particularly with that 13" screen at 900p resolution. Plus, the color gamut is much narrower than what you'd find on a standard monitor, making it unsuitable for Photoshop.

You might have thought this was a great opportunity to pick up a Mac and switch over to iOS, but it really isn't worth it.

For that kind of money, you can buy a much better laptop. You might even be able to grab an external monitor as well.

wiredotter14 said:Which country are you buying from?

Those TUF gaming laptops are notorious for overheating, even with an Intel Core processor

Generally here in the US, though I'd grab a great deal abroad if one popped up.
Anyway, this one sold out in the meantime.

https://www.mediamarkt.de/de/product...t-2662332.html

Hello everyone!
Does anyone know if there are any solid Black Friday laptop Deals coming up?

I'm looking to upgrade my current machine, and I figure it's probably smarter to pull the trigger now while these sales are happening.

If you spot a great deal, please feel free to drop a link so the rest of us can check it out.