Advice for buying a gaming PC!

Jack Smith4 said:I think Intel still holds the monopoly here. Unless AMD pulls off some massive surprise this season, I’m sticking with the first half of that sentence. 😬

That's not true. There are plenty of cheap AMD quad-cores on the market; the issue is they aren't actually good—they're performing at the level of a Pentium or Celeron. It's an outdated tech problem. I expect the next generation of AMD processors targeting Intel's mid-to-high range will eventually drop down to where the Athlon sits now. We'll see it play out first with the Zen APU, where we'll basically get cheap quad-cores once you factor in the integrated graphics.

wiredotter14 said:That’s just not true. There’s a massive selection of budget AMD quad-core chips out there right now...

FX4300 - $200 - what I paid back when I bought it.
G1840 - $87 - what I ended up paying for this one.

So yeah... basically a 25% difference for double the price.

AMD really needs to step their game up this year, seriously. 🙂

I’m talking about the mid-range stuff, not just the absolute bottom-of-the-barrel where Intel dominates everything under $167.

But yeah, AMD would need to drop some seriously heavy hitters in the budget tier if they ever want to actually overtake the Pentium. Honestly? Probably won't happen anytime soon.

For a friend:

COMPONENTS

1. Case: – $608.94
2. Power Supply: – $458.04
3. Memory: – $570.15
4. Processor: – $1,659.78
5. Graphics Card: – $2,046.70
6. Motherboard: – $506.55
7. SSD: – $727.50

Can we do any better than this?
Payment will be made via credit card, so the prices listed are final.
He wants a case with some lighting to ensure it looks aesthetically pleasing.😁

It could work... though I guess the power supply isn't great, the GPU is a bit of a bad deal, the RAM is overpriced, and this case is pretty much the same thing. The CPU doesn't seem worth it either; maybe just grab a temporary G4560 since it's basically the same i3 for $167. I swapped in a similar SSD, just one with a 5-year warranty instead of 3, and went with a better motherboard.

Gigabyte GA-B250M-D3H Motherboard, LGA 1151
Intel Pentium G4560 Processor (3MB Cache, 3.5GHz), s1151
2x DDR4 4GB (1x4GB) PC4-19200 2400MHz CL17 Crucial, CT4G4DFS824A
SAPPHIRE RX480 8G D5 Nitro+ Graphics Card, 8GB DDR5, 256-bit, 1306/8000 MHz, 11260-07-20G
550W FSP Fortron/Raider Power Supply, ATX 2.3, RA550, PPA5502301
Zalman Z3 PLUS mid tower case
256GB SanDisk Z400s SSD, SATA3, SD8SBAT-256G-1122

Total: ~$2.00(Price 2) USD

Hey everyone,

I’ve got a killer question for you all that I bet hasn't come up here before!

I'm looking to put together a gaming rig in the $600-$700 range, though I can stretch it by about $67 if needed. What I really want to know is how much "shelf life" a build like this actually has in today's gaming landscape?

How long can I expect to run things smoothly without hitting a wall? 2? 3? Maybe 5 years?

I’m not exactly a hardcore enthusiast; right now, I’m struggling through Dynasty Warriors 8 on a 1GB DDR2 Sapphire card 🤣 that looks about as grim as an empty fridge in a tiny studio apartment during a recession.☕

My current setup dates back to January 2011—back when some of you weren't even born yet. 👏

And the best part? I was even able to run games like Shadow of Mordor on it. 🎉

Back when I first bought this thing, it cost me roughly $1167.

To cut to the chase: Is it realistic to build a machine for around $900 that can handle modern titles for at least the next five years without needing major upgrades? And if so, what should I be looking at?🕺

If you aren't in a massive rush, I’d suggest holding off for a few weeks until the AMD Ryzen processors and the AM4 platform actually land. Based on everything leaking right now—and what the official word is hinting at—it looks like you could get some serious bang for your buck with that setup. It'll be a total game-changer for your budget.

Honestly, you could probably squeeze in an AMD Ryzen 6-core/12-thread and an RX 480 if you're working with that budget.

Timothy Kim60 said:If you aren't in a massive rush, I'd suggest waiting a few weeks for the Ryzen processors and the AM4 platform to drop so you can see what's actually out there. Based on all the current leaks and official speculation, it looks like you could get some serious bang for your buck within your budget if you go that route.

If that was meant for me—thanks.👍

Just to give you more context, I don't actually have a monitor. I've been running my PC through a Grundig TV that's about 58 inches, using Xbox 360 wireless controllers. I'm not sure how much any of this matters,🤔 but the TV is basically a "smart" TV that isn't actually smart. It's 1920x1080 at 50Hz.🍿

Will that be an issue for gaming? Specifically when considering the graphics card I might get?😵

It’s really not about how many inches your TV screen is—that’s just a distraction. What actually matters is the resolution. Since you mentioned you're running at Full HD (1920x1080), you're basically right in the sweet spot; that's pretty much the standard for most gamers these days. So, if your future card ends up being an RX 480, it should handle just about everything out there on ultra settings without breaking a sweat...

The main issue here is that a TV's refresh rate isn't the same thing as a dedicated monitor's, which means it won't feel quite right for gaming. That said, you can always pick up a proper monitor down the road.

https://www.gizmodo.com.au/2014/08/h...tv-for-gaming/

Larry Ortiz5 said:The actual size of your TV screen doesn't matter at all; what counts is the resolution. You mentioned it's Full HD, which is 1920x1080, and that's pretty much the standard for gaming these days. Honestly, it's probably the most popular resolution among gamers right now, so if that future card ends up being an RX 480, it should run just fine on ultra settings in basically any game out there..

It's definitely Full HD—I actually went up to the attic to double-check the box myself.

Thanks👍

Timothy Kim60 said:The issue might be that the refresh rates on a standard TV and a dedicated gaming monitor aren't the same. That's why using a TV isn't exactly the best setup for gaming, though you can always pick up a proper monitor down the road.

https://www.gizmodo.com.au/2014/08/h...tv-for-gaming/

I'm not exactly a hardcore gamer myself—I'm more of a LEGO enthusiast, so I mostly play those. Because of that, I don't sweat the small details too much.

The technical specs aren't actually the bottleneck here. Even with an RX 480 (or something even weaker), you could squeeze every bit of performance out of any LEGO game imaginable. The real issue is the refresh rate—basically, how many frames per second (FPS) you’re actually seeing, which dictates how smooth the gameplay feels. I'm not entirely sure how 50Hz on a TV translates to real-world motion (it's not quite the same as 50Hz on a dedicated monitor), but most standard PC monitors run at a true 60 or 75Hz, meaning they push 60 or 75 frames every single second. Anyway, you'll figure it out. Generally speaking, for around $600-$700 $0.00, you can easily pick up a full PC setup including a monitor (ranging from $750-$$500) if you aren't trying to play heavy AAA titles where FPS
becomes a dealbreaker.
Take this build, for example, paired with a FreeSync monitor (let's say a slightly higher-end model priced around $500)
:
1 x Intel Pentium G4560 (3.5GHz, 3MB, S.1151, HT) KabyLake, box
1 x MSI H110M PRO-D (S1151, DDR4, USB3.1, SATA III, DVI, Audio, LAN) mATX Retail
1 x CL15 Crucial 8GB DDR4 2133 MT/s (PC4-17000) SR
1 x Toshiba P300 1TB, 64MB, 7200rpm, High-Performance
1 x SanDisk Z400s 256GB SSD, 2.5” 7mm, SATA 6 Gbit/s - 60mj
1 x MSI RX 470 Armor OC, 4GB GDDR5, DX12
1 x Fortron Hyper 600W, 80+ - 60mj.
1 x Zalman Z3, USB3.0 black, 3x120mm
1 x LG 24" LED IPS, 24MP68VQ VGA, DVI, HDMI, FreeSync
1 x NaviaTec Display port plug to HDMI plug 1,0m

Total: $2142

I recommend installing Windows and all your essential software on the SSD. You could skip it entirely, though that would knock about -$220 off the total price above
.
If you want a cheaper monitor, check this one out: click (just subtract the DisplayPort cable from the list above). Bottom line: if you opt for the G4560 Pentium (which is a total best buy right now), there's no need to wait around for AMD Ryzen processors.

Essentially, this is how that demanding game you mentioned would perform on this rig: click

Timothy Kim60 said:It’s not really about the technical specs; even with an RX 480 (or something weaker), you could max out any LEGO game easily. The real issue is the refresh rate—basically, how many frames per second (FPS) you’re actually seeing (the smoothness of the gameplay). I’m not sure exactly what 50Hz on a TV translates to in real-world feel (it isn't quite the same as 50Hz on a monitor), but standard PC monitors run at 60 or 75Hz, meaning they push 60 or 75 frames per second. Anyway, you'll see. Otherwise, for under $600 $0.00, you can easily grab a PC and a monitor (around $750-$500), especially if you aren't playing the most demanding titles where FPS
actually matters.
Take a build like this, maybe using a FreeSync monitor (which would be a slightly pricier option than the one for $500)

1 x Intel Pentium G4560 (3.5GHz, 3MB, S.1151, HT) Kaby Lake, box
1 x MSI H110M PRO-D (S1151, DDR4, USB3.1, SATA III, DVI, Audio, LAN) mATX Retail
1 x Crucial DRAM 8GB DDR4 2133 MT/s (PC4-17000) CL15 SR
1 x Toshiba P300 1TB, 64MB, 7200rpm, High-Performance
1 x SanDisk Z400s 256GB SSD, 2.5” 7mm, SATA 6 Gbit/s - 60mj
1 x MSI RX 470 Armor OC, 4GB GDDR5, DX12
1 x Fortron Hyper 600W, 80+ - 60mj.
1 x Zalman Z3, USB3.0 black, 3x120mm
1 x LG 24" LED IPS, 24MP68VQ VGA, DVI, HDMI, FreeSync
1 x NaviaTec Display port plug to HDMI plug 1,0m

Total: $2142

Install Windows and your main apps on the SSD. You could technically skip it entirely (which would save you about -$220 off the total price)

For a cheaper monitor, check this link (and just ditch the DisplayPort cable from the list above). Basically, if you go with the G4560 Pentium (which is a total best buy right now), there's no need to wait around for Ryzen processors.

In any case, here is how that specific game you mentioned would perform on this setup - click here

To be honest, I'm more tired of dealing with monitors than I am worried about being unable to afford one. Generally, unless I'm listening to music or watching movies, I "turn" my PC into a console. I play with controllers on the living room TV. But hey, I use Steam because you can get games for way less money than on a PS4, and besides, I don't want to get the kids hooked on consoles.

I'm definitely getting an SSD. I already have two 500GB HDDs lying around, so theoretically, I could build the rig without adding an extra HDD, and I can skip the DVD drive too since I still have that from my old computer.

Drew Young2 said:What’s the big deal? I use Steam because you can snag games for way less than what they charge on a PS4. Plus, I don't want to get kids hooked on consoles.

👍👍👍👍👍

Drew Young2 said:I'm definitely grabbing an SSD. I already have two 500 GB HDD X2 drives lying around, so theoretically, I could build the rig without any extra hard drives. I can skip the DVD burner too, since I've got one from my old PC.

In that case, just cut this part out:

HDD Toshiba P300 1TB, 64MB, 7200rpm, High-Performance

And that’s basically it—$133. Since an SSD counts as a drive, you'll still have all the necessary components, which means you should still qualify for their free assembly service. Micro Center doesn't mess with stickers, so you can easily pop the HDD in yourself or just bring it over to them.

Once you subtract the cost of that monitor and cable (Naviatec DisplayPort), you're looking at a discount of roughly $500. So, you're talking about maybe $1500. These components are absolute best buys, and you can pull the trigger on them right now. If you decide to go for a more expensive PC that isn't built on the Intel Pentium G4560, then you'll be waiting for Ryzen for about a
.

Timothy Kim60 said:Then just swap in this:

Seagate BarraCuda 1TB, 64MB, 7200rpm, High-Performance

That's pretty much it.$133 Since an SSD is technically considered a drive, you've got all the parts covered, which means you'd still qualify for free assembly at the shop. Micro Center doesn't put stickers on everything, so you can easily pop the HDD in yourself, or just bring it along to them.

If you take out that monitor and the cable (Naviatec DisplayPort), you save about $500. So, roughly $1500, some of those components are total best buys and you could grab them right now. If you decide on a more expensive PC that isn't based on a Pentium G4560, then you'll be waiting for the Ryzen release next
.

Thanks so much for all the effort and advice!👍

I see people mentioning that wait time a few times now, so I won't go rushing in blindly. For what it's worth, my current rig is 6 years old and runs an AMD "who-knows-what," but I've been really happy with it—even though from what I've been reading lately, Pentiums seem to dominate and have the edge for gaming builds. An i5 feels like the best fit for my budget.

Actually, I do know which one it is:

Intel Athlon II X3 445 3.10 GHz

And the GPU:

NVIDIA GeForce GT 550 1GB DDR2

So yeah, I'm a satisfied user, and my heart still leans toward AMD.

Look, if you're looking at current options, an i5 6400 or 7400 (4 cores) would probably run you around $250 or more. If you're willing to wait, you might be able to snag a 4-core/8-thread setup for roughly the same price, or even find a budget 4-core option for about $150-$$367 (that's just my estimate, nothing is set in stone for those models yet).

That said, a Pentium is going to outperform that Intel Athlon II X3 445 significantly, though I have to give credit where it's due—that Athlon was a solid little CPU for its era and price point.

Hi everyone. A friend is putting together a PC and I'd like your thoughts on this build:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1500x 3.5ghz quad core
Motherboard: MSI B350M Gaming Pro Micro ATX AM4
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8) DDR4 - 3000
HDD: WD Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5'' 7200 RPM
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Gaming X 4G
Case: NZXT S340 ATX Mid Tower Case
PSU: Corsair CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

Is this setup adequate? He’s willing to spend up to $700, so perhaps there is something better in that price range. Also, any recommendations for a cooler for this configuration? Maybe the LC CC 120?

Thanks. 😁