Kajper's Info Corner

@Rachel Jones8, don't take it personally. I was talking about women in general, you know?

That's a bummer.
And if you actually think that... Everything. If you're talking about the female population, then I guess it's pretty obvious that I'm part of that group too, right? All of it. Women's populations.

Think of this as a little cheat sheet for building PCs for women. Being a guy in this field, I'm constantly surrounded by tech both at home and on the job, so I’ve learned to stay ready for even the weirdest questions—especially when I see that look of total confusion in their eyes.

It’s kind of wild, isn't it? Even when you're surrounded by women, they still feel like these strange, exotic creatures you just can't wrap your head around... not even their questions make sense.
I honestly don't get why people find my questions so weird... I mean, let's be real, not every guy out there is some tech genius who can rattle off every single IT term under the sun, right?

Look, the folks above suggesting builds definitely know their stuff way more than I do. They just don't realize they're walking a fine line between life and death—a line most of us guys don't even see, let alone care about.

Yeah, I’m gonna find everyone who helped me pick this out and personally strangle them.

If you approach a woman with a smile, you could pretty much sell her even the most useless junk just by packaging it nicely. Right? What if that bright, sunny energy just fades away? I don't see it happening, though. There's no way she could sell something truly useful and practical while staying that cold and rational.

This is getting ridiculous... I guess we’ll just have to say our goodbyes and call it quits.
So, some guys suggest a build to me, I go ahead and buy it... and I end up with total junk. Who was it?
Maybe someone tried to talk me into some flashy pink box filled with absolute garbage components, and I finally snapped out of it? What are you even talking about?

Man, us guys just don't know how to pitch things reasonably or functionally without adding enough charm that you don't even notice the price tag.

Maybe you.
Eighth, crimsonstag84, TNG, Robert Rodriguez2, Fosna, Halek, and maybe a few others I missed—you guys absolutely crushed it. Seriously, thanks again, boys. 😁

Took me a minute to pull all those individual prices together... especially once I figured out what was actually what.
I did a little digging and, thanks to all your great advice, I finally pulled this together:
If all that fits together... I mean, am I missing anything, or is that pretty much everything you need for a build? Do the cables come included, or do I need to grab something else separately?

The processor was $704.99. I couldn't find that exact one at Best Buy. $22Just like that photo Robert Rodriguez2 posted.
The AMD Trinity A8-Series processor. Anyone else still rocking one?

2. motherboard, $384.73. Any takers?
The Asrock FM2A75M-HD+ works with both Socket FM2+ 95W and FM2 100W processors. Pretty straightforward, right? $128

Third memory stick, $286.80.
Found this single 4GB stick of Kingston HyperX DDR3. It's 1600MHz with CL9 latency. Anyone else running similar specs? $96

4. Hard drive. $137
Western Digital 1TB Caviar Blue, 1000GB, SATA3, 64MB, 3.5", 24-month warranty. $137

The fifth power supply. Any thoughts? $69
Chicony 400W ATX Power Supply, CHI-HPA-400W $69

DVD at $121.91. Not bad, right?
Picked up a Samsung DVD burner today. It's the SATA Bulk Black version, just $121.91. Not bad, right?

Case number 7 (starts at $180).$153)
Eighth CPU cooler ($85).$47)
9. SSD ($220)

Those prices look like they're straight out of downtown Manhattan. I'm still gonna check what the Advanced Highly HPA Series has going on first, then maybe see if I can put together something similar through them.

That brings the total to 2,116.21.
7-9... that's 945 total, right?$420

Everything from items 1 through 9 comes out to somewhere between $3,061 and $3,376. That covers the whole setup, including the case, the cooler, and the SSD. Not too bad, right?
Since not everyone went with the cooler, I'm still on the fence about whether I actually need it. But hey, it isn't exactly breaking the bank, right?
I'm stumped on this SSD thing... some kind of speed boost? Robert Rodriguez2 says I don't even need it, so that's like saving $2,400. Is it really worth it?$900 Totally fits the budget. Even if you go with a pricier case.
Would that work?
Do you actually need two of those just to have two partitions?

Rachel Jones8 said:It took a bit to pull all the individual prices together... and figure out what everything actually is...
I did some digging, and with help from your comments, I put this together:
(If this all works together... I don't know if I'm missing anything or if this is basically everything that goes into a PC. Don't you need cables or something else specific?)

1. processor 704.99 (couldn't find the exact one at Best Buy that matches $22, like in the photo from Robert Rodriguez2)
AMD Trinity A8-Series processor

2. motherboard 384.73
Asrock FM2A75M-HD+, Supports Socket FM2+ 95W / FM2 processors $128

3. memory 286.80
DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1600MHz, CL9, Hyper X, KHX1600C9D3B1/ $96

4. HDD $137
HDD WD 1TB, Caviar Blue 10EZEX, 1000 GB, SATA3, 64 MB, 3.5", 24mo $137

5. power supply $69
Chicony Active 400W ATX PSU, CHI-HPA-400W $69

6. dvd 121.91
DVD writer Samsung SATA Bulk Black, SATA 121.91

7. case (180 -$153)
8. cpu cooler (85 -$47)
9. ssd ($220)

Prices are from a local shop... I'll check Best Buy later to see if building something similar there would be cheaper.

1-6 total 2116.21
7-9 total 945 -$420

Total for 1-9 ---> 3061.21 – 3376.21 including the case, cooler, and ssd.
Since not everyone included a cooler, I'm not sure if I even need one, but it's not exactly expensive.
I'm not sure what an SSD is... something for speed? Robert Rodriguez2 said I don't need it, so cutting 660 would bring it down to about 2400 -$900 which fits my budget perfectly. (Even with a nicer case)
Would this work?
Do I need two of those to have two partitions?

What I put together for you is more than enough for basic home use. Getting an SSD doesn't make sense for you right now (an SSD uses flash memory instead of magnetic platters and a read head like a standard hard drive; it's way faster, but they still have small capacities and are relatively pricey)
Every one of those Intel and AMD processors comes with a cooler, though with AMD, it's better to grab an aftermarket one since it's quieter and cools better.
You don't need two drives just to have two partitions.
You can physically partition a single drive during the Windows installation, so that shouldn't be an issue.🙂

Robert Rodriguez2 said:Honestly, what I put together for you is more than enough for your everyday home setup. You really need anything more than that?

I think this is even further from what you actually suggested. I just did a quick scan—not sure which specific items from the list—but I’m pretty sure most of that was your idea anyway, right?

Honestly, I don't see the point in grabbing an SSD right now. Since they use flash memory instead of those old magnetic platters and read heads found in traditional hard drives, they're way faster—but let's be real, the capacities are still pretty small and they're relatively expensive. Is it even worth it yet?

Alright, that's out.

Every one of those Intel and AMD chips comes with a cooler in the box. But honestly, if you're going with AMD, wouldn't it be worth grabbing an aftermarket cooler? It'll run quieter and keep things way cooler.

So, adding one more cooler... or a fan... is that basically the same thing? And what exactly does "aftermarket" even mean?
You suggested them: (the first two were yours)
Got my hands on an Arctic Cooling Alpine 11 Pro 2 for the 775/1156 socket. It’s a solid 92mm PWM fan. Think it'll handle the heat? $28
Thinking about picking up a Thermaltake Contac? It covers everything from 775 to AM3+. Pretty versatile, right? $46
Spire Kepler Rev.2 at $86.98. Not bad, right?

Do I really only need one of those? That Thermaltake you suggested... is that enough to get the job done?

You don't actually need two separate drives just to run two partitions, right?
You can physically partition the drive while you're installing Windows, so that shouldn't be much of an issue for you. 🙂

Thanks a bunch.
Does this list look alright to you, or is there something you'd definitely toss out to swap in your own suggestions? Or is everything already in there, making it pretty much a non-issue?
Looking back at it now... honestly, everything you suggested is right there, just with a beefier power supply.

I'll take another look at everything tomorrow... I'm gonna see what I can pull together from the Advanced Highly HPA Series line (most people were pointing me toward Best Buy anyway), then I'll drop it here for a final check before I pull the trigger on the order.

Rachel Jones8 said:So, adding one extra... cooler... fan... is that the same thing? What exactly counts as aftermarket?
You suggested: (the first two were yours)
-ARCTIC-COOLING Alpine 11 Pro 2, socket 775/1156 92mm PWM Fan $28
- Thermaltake Contac 16, 775,AM2,AM2+,AM3,AM3+,FM1,1155,1156 $46
- Spire Kepler Rev.2 86,98

Do I just need one of these? This Thermaltake was your last suggestion... is that enough?

I'll take another look tomorrow... see what I can put together from Best Buy (most people suggested getting parts from a local shop) and then I'll... post it here and finally make a decision and send off my inquiry/order.

An aftermarket cooler is basically anything you buy separately for your processor. Usually, the manufacturer includes some kind of "Stock" cooler with the CPU, which does the job, sure, but it’s rarely super quiet or high quality.

Now, a cooler and a fan aren't quite the same thing. A cooler is mounted directly onto the processor (or some other active component) to pull heat away while it's running. It consists of a base that sits against the chip, attached to a block made of metal. Why do we do it this way? Heat moves from the processor via conduction, and if you just had a flat base without an upper metal block, that processor would overheat in a heartbeat. Cheap coolers usually have aluminum blocks, whereas the more expensive models use copper.

Even if a block is massive and gathers plenty of heat, the processor will eventually cook itself unless there's a way to get that heat out. That's why they design these blocks with gaps or fins to allow airflow, using convection to move the heat from the block into the surrounding air. This is where fans come in. Usually, one fan sits right on the cooler block itself. Other fans live inside the case in various spots and sizes. Since these rely on moving air to stay cool, we call them air coolers.

Then you've got "liquid" cooling, which works a lot like a home central heating system—you've got a reservoir with fluid and a pump that pushes that liquid through a copper block (the "cooler") to soak up the heat. The big plus? They are incredibly quiet and efficient. The downside? They cost more, and there's always that tiny worry about a leak somewhere in the lines or fittings.

Why am I giving you the whole history lesson? Just because I know you're following this thread about central systems and already have a bit of a handle on how things work.

The most important thing when picking a cooler is the socket on the processor you're mounting it to. For Intel, you'll see numeric labels (like 775, 1366, 1156, 1155, 2011, 1150), while with AMD, you'll see letters (AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, FM1, FM2, FM2+). Also, for air coolers with a built-in fan, manufacturers often list the fan size (80mm, 92mm, 120mm, and 140mm are the standards). Why does that matter? A bigger fan can spin at fewer RPMs to get the same cooling effect, which means much quieter operation.

Looking at your list, since you're building an AMD rig, that Arctic Cooling option is out because it isn't designed for an AMD socket. I wouldn't go with the Spire either; those fans tend to spin at over 2000 RPM, and Spire uses lower-quality bearings that can be pretty noisy. The Thermaltake is perfectly fine. If you find yourself with extra cash (or if silence is your absolute top priority), maybe hunt around for some Scythe or Zalman models.

Rachel Jones8 said:I think this is actually pretty close to what you suggested earlier. I just did a quick scan, and honestly, most of this looks like stuff you already wrote down.

Alright, scrap that.

So, adding one more... cooler... fan... is that the same thing? What counts as aftermarket?
You suggested: (the first two are yours)
-ARCTIC-COOLING Alpine 11 Pro 2, socket 775/1156 92mm PWM Fan $28
- Thermaltake Contac 16, 775,AM2,AM2+,AM3,AM3+,FM1,1155,1156 $46
- Spira Kepler Rev.2 86,98

Do I only need one of these? That Thermaltake was your last suggestion... is that enough?

Thanks a lot.
Is the list okay, or is there something you'd definitely cut because it sucks and swap for your own suggestions... or is it all basically there, so it doesn't matter much?
Edit: looking at it now... yeah, it's everything you suggested, just with a stronger power supply.

I'll look it over again tomorrow... seeing what I can put together from Advanced Highly HPA Series so I can... post it here and finally make a decision and send the order.

Feel free to grab whatever you want from that list.
As for Advanced Highly HPA Series, I've dropped a ton of cash there over the years. They’re pricier than the local shops... but the perk is that above $667 you get free shipping anywhere... plus they'll assemble it and run stability tests for free.
Regarding the cooler, Jason Harris5 explained everything perfectly... I wouldn't say it any better.
thermaltake is way to go
why did I pick AMD over Intel?
a) AMD has four physical cores which will definitely last you several years... plus the integrated graphics are stronger than Intel's, letting you play games occasionally on low or medium settings... unlike Intel.
b) Software is definitely going to utilize four physical cores for now, unlike Intel's setup of two physical cores plus two virtual ones (I've seen cases where hyperthreading just fails to perform), so it's better to avoid that headache.
c) Down the road, if you upgrade to a dedicated graphics card, you'll be able to pick much stronger models compared to Intel without worrying if the CPU can handle the GPU.
d) Even though I've used Intel my whole life, I went with AMD for my last build because the performance gap doesn't justify the extra cost... at least not for me.

Hope that helps.

Jason Harris5 said:An aftermarket cooler is basically anything you grab to swap out that standard CPU fan. Most manufacturers include a stock cooler with the processor, and while it gets the job done, it’s usually pretty loud and feels a bit cheap. Why settle for that when you could get something better?

So, does he just plug them both in... or is he swapping out the original mouse for the one he bought separately?

A heatsink isn't just a fan—those aren't the same thing. You mount a heatsink directly onto the processor to pull heat away while it's running. It’s got a base that sits right on the chip, topped with a metal block. Why bother? Heat moves from the processor through conduction, so if you didn't have that metal block sitting on top of the base, the CPU would just overheat instantly. Most cheap ones use aluminum for the block, but if you're looking at the high-end stuff, you're usually getting copper.

Even if a heatsink is massive and soaked in heat, it’s still going to overheat eventually without help. That’s why designers leave gaps in the block to let air flow through—you need that convection to pull the heat away from the unit and dump it into the room. This is where fans come into play, right? Usually, you'll find one sitting right on the heatsink itself, while the others are tucked away in different spots around the case. Since we're relying on moving air like this, we just call them air coolers.

Then there's liquid cooling. It basically works just like a central heating system—you've got a reservoir full of coolant and a pump pushing that fluid through a copper block to soak up all the heat. The big perks? It’s dead silent and incredibly efficient. The downside? It'll cost you more upfront, and you're always playing a little game of "will this leak?" if a fitting isn't tight. Risk worth taking?

Why did I lay all that out? Honestly, just because I know you're hanging around the CPU threads and clearly know your stuff.

It’s definitely got some similarities to how a water heater works compared to the whole heating system. Same goes for the hot water tank, right? 😁
The water in the heater cools down as it travels from the unit through all the radiators, right? So you have to heat it back up just to get it hot again. Basically, there's a coil inside the tank where the hot system water heats the sanitary water. 😉
So, does that liquid in the water cooling loop just keep cycling back to the CPU, or is there some extra step where it actually gets cooled down outside the case?

One thing you really need to nail down when picking a cooler is the socket. Intel uses numbers like 775 or 1150, while AMD sticks to letters like AM3 or AM2+. Also, if you're looking at an air cooler, check the fan size. Standard sizes are usually 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, or 140mm. Why does it matter? Simple: a bigger fan means lower RPMs for the same cooling power, which just means a quieter build.

Got it.

Since you're leaning toward AMD, skip that Arctic Cooling one—it isn't actually built for an AMD socket. I wouldn't touch Spira either; those fans crank up to 2000+ RPM, and Spira's bearings are pretty cheap, so they tend to rattle. Thermaltake is a solid bet. If you've got extra cash or if silence is a huge deal for you, maybe look into some Scythe or Zalman coolers.

It wasn't me saying that, just the other folks on the forum. I'm just looking at the pictures and the price tags. 😉
I just went with the more expensive option from what they wrote. Everyone says Intel is better (at least according to the tech magazines), and the suggested AMD processor was double the price of the Intel ones, so I just threw it on the list without thinking much about it. Honestly, I have no clue which is actually better. Maybe there's a better Intel option for around $222. 🤷 For the same money at Best Buy, you can get this Intel instead.
A comparison?

I compared the prices between Best Buy and ADM, and here’s how it looks (sorry for the long post, but this is my little corner of the web 😁 )

AMD
1. Processor $235
AMD Trinity A8-Series 3.60GHz 4cores, FM2
2. Motherboard $133
Asrock FM2A75M-HD+, Supports Socket FM2+ 95W / FM2 100W processes
3. Memory $106
DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1600MHz, CL9, Hyper X, KHX1600C9D3B1/
4. HDD $142
HDD WD 1TB, Caviar Blue 10EZEX, 1000 GB, SATA3, 64 MB, 3.5", 24mo warranty
5. Power Supply 228.98
Power Supply Chicony HPA-400W, Advanced Highly HPA Series
6. DVD $45
DVD burner Samsung SATA Bulk Black, SATA
7. Case $133
Zalman Z9 U3 mid tower case. 207(W) x 464(H) x 504(D)mm
8. Cooler 138.99
Thermaltake Contac 16, 775, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, FM1, 1155, 1156

TOTAL: 2749.94

Best Buy

1. Processor $222
Processor AMD A8 X4 5600K
2. Motherboard $121
Motherboard ASRock FM2A75M-HD+
3. Memory 286.80
Kingston HiperX B, DDR3 1600MHz, CL9, 4GB KHX1600C9D3B1/4G
4. HDD 415.03
Hard Drive WD Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 3 WD10EZEX
5. Power Supply 206.30
Chicony Active 400W ATX PSU, CHI-HPA-400W
6. DVD 121.91
Optical drive Samsung SATA Bulk Black
7. Case 398.09
Zalman mid tower case black, ZAL-Z9 U3
8. Cooler 119.76
CPU cooler Thermaltake Contac 16

TOTAL: 2578.89 (difference of $57)

Since the difference isn't small, Best Buy seems like the better move... I just still need to add a cooler.
Silence is really important to me... since I was looking for a build around $833 without a case, and this is a full set including a pricier case for 2600, I can definitely afford a slightly nicer cooler.
The issue is that at Best Buy, the Zalman coolers don't specify which processor they fit, so I'm stuck.
ADM has them listed... but I wonder if I can just buy one part somewhere else and bring it to the shop that offers free assembly. Because Best Buy ends up being $57 cheaper for the same stuff.

Here are some options:

ADM Coolers:

Scythe Kozuti SCKZT-1000, socket AM2/AM2+/AM3/775/1155/1156/1366 $78

Scythe Big Shuriken SCBSK-2100, socket AM2/AM2+/AM3/AM3+/FM1/FM2 $80

SCYTHE Ashura SCASR-1000, s. 2011/775/1155/1156/1366/AM2/AM2+/AM $125

ZALMAN CNPS 5X, socket 775/1155/1156/AM2/AM2/AM3 $53

Best Buy Coolers? (Zalman doesn't say which processors they work with)

Zalman CNPS10X OPTIMA CPU cooler. FAN: 120mm $77
Zalman CNPS8900 QUIET CPU cooler. FAN: 110mm $122
CPU cooler Thermaltake Contac 30 234.10

Can anyone help me out with a cooler?
Also, if anyone’s got thoughts on swapping the CPU, I'm all ears—any suggestions for a decent cooler to go with it? The one being suggested is a $40, but wouldn't something a bit more substantial be better for this setup?

Robert Rodriguez2 said:Feel free to check out everything on their list.
As for ADM, I've dropped a ton of cash there over the years... they're pricier than Micro Center, though. One perk is that if you spend over $667, you get free shipping anywhere... plus free assembly and stability testing.

I thought Micro Center offered free shipping over a certain amount too. Looks like shipping is $13, but I wonder if the threshold is the same for a full build.
Assembly is free... as for testing, who knows? It’d be nice if they actually tested what they built.
Even with that $40 difference, it still ends up being less at $43. Honestly, I'd rather go with ADM since I wasn't feeling Micro Center lately.
Now I'm just stuck deciding; I'll send them an inquiry and see how it goes...

Regarding the cooler, Jason Harris5 already covered it... wouldn't say it any better myself.
Why did I pick AMD over Intel?

d) Even though I've been an Intel guy my whole life, I went with AMD for this last build because the price jump for Intel performance just didn't seem worth it... at least not to me.

I doubt I'd even notice any performance gaps. 😁
All I want is for it to work—so pages and docs don't take long enough for me to make lunch while waiting... and for it to run quiet. 🙂

Hope that helped.

You did. Big time. Thanks.
Maybe swap the fan for something slightly more expensive/better/quieter... but only once I pick a shop. Or maybe grab one of each. 🙂

Micro Center or ADM? 🤔 What do you guys think?
(Yeah, I'm super indecisive... but hey, we sorted most of this out pretty fast)

Jason Harris5 says thanks. Honestly though, I’d never pick an AMD for myself (well, except for Zacate). It’s not because the chip is bad, or loud, or that you can't get better value elsewhere. For what it costs and just basic home use, you really can't beat it. My last AMD build was on Socket A, and man, that was some serious DIY chemistry—taking two modded Duron Quicksilvers and turning them into an Athlon MP on a Tyan workstation board with ECC memory. That rig lasted until the capacitors on the board finally gave up the ghost.

Having four cores is a nice little lure. Sure, it's great if that's what you need. High clock speeds, overclocking, undervolting... it's all fantastic, but mostly it's just stuff people brag about on forums or "for kids." When you actually sit down and crunch the numbers—calculating the cost of extra fans, a higher-end motherboard with better OC potential, and low-latency RAM—you realize that for the same price, or maybe just a tiny bit more, I could have just grabbed a Core i5 with the stock cooler and avoided all the headaches and deep-dive research. But hey, we were all fifteen once, wanting to run BF4 on Ultra settings. Back in my day, we called it Doom, and everyone played it on an SX 33; I managed to scrape by on a dx4 133, then moved up to 166MHz, and after Doom came Unreal.

Nowadays? Low power consumption and silence matter way more to me than raw performance. I've still got an e5300 running with a stock cooler in a tiny case, and a 955BE sitting in its plastic housing. For browsing forums, I just use my iPad. For work, I've got a Toshiba Satellite a200 that was almost headed for the scrap heap, a Dell Latitude D610, and a Lenovo ThinkPad. I don't have a single computer at home newer than six years old. And it's not like I'm missing out. The next thing I'll probably grab for the house is a Mac mini.

If someone really wants to focus solely on gaming, they should just buy a console. To be honest, I probably would too. I just don't have three hundred bucks lying around for this: http://www.arcade-history.com/?n=bub...=detail&id=343

And PlayStation just doesn't do it for me.

Sorry for the OFF.

Back to the main point: cooling is pretty much an either/or situation. You’re looking at either the Stock cooler or going the aftermarket route. There isn't a middle ground where you mount both. You’ll always get the Stock option bundled with whatever processor you pick, regardless of the model. When it comes to liquid cooling, think of it like the reverse of a radiant floor heating system in a house. You’ve got this reservoir—usually sitting outside the chassis—filled with enough chilled fluid so that when the hot stuff cycles through, it doesn't spike the whole system's temperature. And since everything is sitting outside the case and those tubes are relatively long, you actually get some extra passive cooling just from the air hitting them. Just keep in mind, we aren't talking about massive tanks of water here; the volumes are way smaller, and the flow dynamics are much more intense than what you'd see in a central heating setup. That’s exactly why people doing DIY builds often grab aquarium pumps for circulation, while the real pros go all out polishing their own blocks, custom-fitting clamps, picking out specific fittings, and fine-tuning tube diameters to get it just right.

Jason Harris5 said:My buddy Jason appreciates the input. Personally, though, I’d never pick AMD for myself (unless we’re talking about Zacate). It's not because their stuff is bad, loud, or poor value—actually, for basic home use, you won't find better bang for your buck. My last AMD build was on Socket A, and man, that was a headache. I had two Durons modded into those hard-to-find Athlon MP chips on a Tyan workstation board with ECC memory, and it lasted right up until the capacitors on the board finally gave up the ghost.

Four cores are just a flashy gimmick. Sure, they look great on paper if you're into high clock speeds, overclocking, or undervolting, but let’s be real: that’s mostly for forum bragging rights and "kids." When you actually sit down and calculate what you spend on extra fans, a higher-end motherboard with better OC potential, and low-latency RAM... you realize for basically the same amount of cash, I could just grab a Core i5 with the stock cooler and skip all the headaches and tinkering. But hey, we were all fifteen once, wanting to run BF4 on Ultra. Back in my day, people were playing Doom on an SX 33; I scraped by on a dx4 133, then moved to a 166mmx, and eventually transitioned to Unreal.

Nowadays? I care way more about low power draw and silence than raw performance. I've still got an e5300 running with its stock cooler in a tiny case, while a 955BE is sitting in its plastic shroud. For browsing, I use my iPad. For work, I rotate through a Toshiba Satellite, a Dell Latitude D610, and a Lenovo ThinkPad that they almost tossed in the trash. I don't have anything in my house newer than six years old, and honestly, I don't miss having new gear. My next home upgrade will probably be a Mac mini.

If someone really wants to game, they should just buy a console. Honestly, I would too if I could. I just don't have three hundred bucks lying around for this: http://www.arcade-history.com/?n=bub...=detail&id=343

Besides, PlayStation isn't really my thing.

Sorry for the OFF topic chatter.

Nothing is truly "off-topic" in my little info corner.
So... should I go with Intel after all? I'm not blaming you for the dilemma you've put me in; I'm in no rush.
The suggestion was AMD for $222 and a cooler for $40. That brings us to $262, but if I opt for a beefier cooler... say, one meant for $78... then we're looking at $300 total.
If I go Intel and don't need an extra cooler based on what you said... I could probably grab an Intel chip in the $666 range. $300
Here were the Intel options:
Intel Celeron $97
Intel Celeron $77
Intel Celeron $77
Intel Pentium $136

For around $700, $300 I could probably snag an i3.
Now... do I actually need it? Is it better? Who knows.

Looking at what you wrote above, I'll just say this: I don't play games. I have Run ski Challenge, but I've only played it a few times and now it just lags. That's about it.
As for performance, I barely even know what that means. Everything on my current PC list is about nine years old. Anything would probably be faster and quieter. Plus, I can't even watch YouTube videos or listen to music properly most of the time because it keeps stuttering. Same goes for listening to the radio while I work.
An i5 looks like it costs $425... which would put the whole build around $1060. That's a bit over my budget of $3000, but if it makes sense to invest in a better processor, maybe it's worth considering. Or an i3... those aren't great, right?

What does it mean when it says "Integrated graphics no"?

Should I pick up an extra graphics card too?

The i5 is a quad-core chip, whereas the i3 just isn't. Whether those four cores actually matter to you is really your call to make. But honestly? If I were picking up a general-purpose home PC today, I wouldn't even look at anything without a quad-core processor. In my book, an i5 with integrated graphics is perfectly fine for home use, plus it runs significantly quieter than the AMD options. It is quite a bit more expensive, though. Whether that price tag is actually worth it... well, I won't get bogged down in that debate.

It just crossed my mind... an AMD Kaveri would probably be perfect for you. I guess it isn't available here in the States just yet, so it’ll likely cost about as much as a Core i3. Still, you'd be getting a quad-core processor with integrated graphics that are significantly stronger than the AMD Trinity, all while staying at a 45W TDP—which, if I'm not mistaken, is actually less than the i3.

You can switch the power mode from 65W to 45W with just a few clicks. I guess it really depends on whether you're looking for better efficiency or more speed, maybe for when you're running demanding programs or games.

I think you mentioned that you weren't planning on buying it right away?

Hmm, Robert Rodriguez2 says:
AMD has physical 4 cores which will definitely keep you going for a few years... plus the integrated graphics subsystem is stronger than Intel's
That comes out to about 720-$317 (depending on which cooler I pick)
If you're saying an i3 isn't a great choice, and Intel with 4 cores costs $463 more... even if you don't need an extra cooler, that's still 440-$223 more, which isn't nothing... especially when we're working with a tight budget.
🙂

crimsonstag84 said:Didn't you say you weren't buying anything right away?

Yeah, because I figured I'd have some time to decide what to get... and since I was planning on sticking with my old junk for a while, I thought I'd need extra time to move all my important files to an external drive and grab those adapters I'll need later... so I could slowly go through everything and move it from the old rig to the new one.
But since I've decided to actually get a new tower, and I've gotten so much help picking it out, I think I'll just speed things up now.
I mean, if I wait too long... these other parts might not fit anymore... they'll be different, or gone entirely, or I'll just run out of cash... so I'm not really looking to wait forever. I'd rather just get it done, order it, and call it a day.

If I stick with my first choice, would any of these coolers actually work?
1.

And this is a CPU cooler, but there’s zero info on what socket it fits.

Edit: I cleared out the others since I realized they won't fit AM3+.

Since you're planning to overclock (pushing the processor speed past its Stock settings), just grab the cheapest Thermaltake cooler I listed for you.
I have no idea why they're charging you so much at Best Buy, but here's what I'm seeing:

1 x Asrock FM2A75M-HD+, Supports Socket FM2+ 95W / FM2 processes

1 x Processor AMD Trinity

1 x DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1600MHz, CL9, Hyper X, KHX1600C9D3B1/

1 x HDD WD 1TB, Caviar Blue 10EZEX, 1000 GB, SATA3, 64 MB, 3.5", 24mj

1 x Power Supply Chicony, Advanced Highly HPA Series

1 x Zalman ZM-T2 PLUS micro tower case. 189(W) x 427.5(H) x

1 x DVD burner Samsung SATA Bulk Black, SATA

1 x Thermaltake Contac 16, 775, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, FM1, 1155, 1156

total
$846

EDIT: figured it out—you picked the more expensive case.😬

EDIT 2: shipping to downtown will be $13 via standard mail, and you'll get two boxes (one with the built PC, one with the component packaging).

Robert Rodriguez2 said:since you aren't planning on overclocking (pushing the processor speed past its Stock settings), just grab whichever cheap Thermaltake cooler I linked earlier.
I have no idea why prices at ADM are so high for you; this is what I'm seeing:

EDIT: figured it out, you picked a pricier case 😬

Yeah, it was the case. Not the RAM... though whatever. 😁
I'm looking through it now... trying to see the difference from $33. Until you edited it, anyway. 😁

EDIT 2: shipping to downtown is $13 per package, and you get two (one with the built PC, and one with the component packaging).

Yeah, yeah... interesting.
I think I'll just stick with ADM since they're closer if I need help later, plus they handle their own delivery. Those guys downtown didn't really leave much of an impression on me.

How does the warranty work? Does each part have its own warranty, or is it like buying a whole computer where there's just one sticker (that you can't touch) covering the entire setup?
(I sent an inquiry to ADM)

Can I add a card reader to the front of the PC?
Would that be this?

Rachel Jones8 said:Yeah, the case. Not the RAM... whatever. 😁
I'm opening it up to find... where the difference is from $33. Unless you didn't edit it. 😁

High, high... interesting.
I think I'll just grab it from ADM since they're closer (if I need help later), they handle their own shipping, and those guys downtown didn't exactly impress me.

How does the warranty work? Is there a separate warranty for parts, or is it like buying a pre-built where everything has one sticker (that you can't touch) covering the whole machine?
(sent an inquiry to ADM)

Can I add a card reader to the front of the PC?
Would that be this?

You can add it easily 🙂

The computer is built there under their one-year warranty, plus every single component has its own individual warranty too. 🙂

I don't know the exact amount, but over the last 3-4 years, I've dropped off as much of my own money as anyone else's there—over 30 bucks $0.00 😛 and never had a single issue.

Just built a rig for a friend there recently; we ordered the parts around noon, and by the next afternoon, everything was assembled and delivered (to a place like Chicago) 🙂

They say they don't even have any.
Thinking about picking up a Thermaltake Contac? It covers everything from 775 to AM3+. Pretty versatile, right?
Got a Scythe Shuriken for the 754/939/940/AM2/AM2+/AM3/AM3+ sockets. Anyone else running this?
And here’s what they offered me:
The CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo. Still a classic, right?
Check this out: http://www.adm.com/product_info.php?products_id=8413
Is this cooling setup actually any good?
Does that reader actually fit into that smaller slot, the one meant for floppies?

That Cooler Master unit is top-tier; it'll keep your PC running smooth and ice-cold.
The card reader fits right into the old 3.5" floppy drive bay if that's what your case supports. Also, the link in your previous post is broken, so I can't check it out.