Gaming PC build - around $1,200 budget

My old PC finally died on me recently after about seven years. I've started looking for a replacement that I plan to use exclusively for gaming—specifically new titles, upcoming releases, and just general browsing and streaming. I was wondering what you all think of this build

INSTAR Gamer Dominator Nitro, Intel Core i7-4770K, 3.50GHz (Haswell), 16GB DDR3, 1000GB, GeForce GTX660 2GB GDDR5

PROCESSOR: Intel Core i7-4770K, 3.50GHz, 1MB, 8MB (Haswell)
CPU COOLING: Intel 1150 CERTIFIED CPU FAN & HEATSINK
MOTHERBOARD: Intel h81 Chipset
MEMORY: 2x8GB ( 16GB ) DDR3 1600MHz
GRAPHICS CARD: Nvidia GeForce GTX660 2GB GDDR5
HARD DRIVE: 1000GB 7200.12 3.5"
Optical Drive: DVD+-RW DL SATA black
SOUND: HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD 5.1 AUDIO
CASE: CoolerMaster gaming, black
POWER SUPPLY: 500W
Extra Fans: 1x12 cm
NETWORK CARD: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network
KEYBOARD: None
MOUSE: None
SPEAKERS: None
LCD Monitor: None
Wireless 802.11B/G Network Card: No
Bluetooth: No
Flash Media Reader / Writer: No
USB PORTS: Built-in USB 2.0 & 3.0 Ports
Ports FLOPPY: None

The specs are from the retailer's website. My budget is roughly $2667 around $650, and I might look into financing it over 36 months. I don't need a monitor or peripherals, just the tower itself plus a DVD burner. For resolution, I'm aiming for something like 2500 x ???—basically whatever the maximum is. I’d be interested in your thoughts and advice. I guess I might opt for only 8GB of RAM instead and put that extra money toward a better graphics card. I probably don't need an SSD

thanks

I’m not going to build a custom rig for you, but I will say this: stay far away from that specific setup. It’s an absolute disaster—completely unbalanced, especially since it uses 🙂. Haha, seriously? They're pairing an overclockable processor with an Intel h81 board... 😲 Plus, they claim it has a 500W power supply, but what kind of brand are we even talking about here? 🤣 And suggesting a Gtx 660 for a budget of $2667? WTF? 😁 Wait, did you put this together yourself, or is this one of those pre-built bundles they sell in stores? P.S. What about your monitor? From what I can see, you didn't list one, but what's its native resolution? You can't just force a higher resolution than what the screen actually supports—for example, if your monitor maxes out at 1680x1050, you can't just tell it to run at Full HD (1920x1080) just because you have a $17 card. That’s just not how it works 🙂

I suppose there isn't much to say about Osmanko. cosmicseal98 says:
I won't sit here and build a custom configuration for you, but I will say this: stay far away from that setup. It’s a total disaster and, frankly, pretty poorly balanced. 🙂Haha, putting an overclocked processor on an Intel h81. I guess that's one way to do it. 😲 A 500W power supply? I guess it depends on which specific model you're talking about. 🤣 Looking for a Gtx 660 for a budget build. Maybe around a certain price point? $2667 What on earth happened? 😁 Did you put this build together yourself, or is this just one of those pre-built configurations they sell? Also, what's the deal with the monitor? It looks like you don't actually need one, but if you do, what’s its native resolution? You can't really push a resolution higher than what the screen supports. For example, if you have a monitor capped at 1680x1050, you can't just force it to run at Full HD 1920x1080 just because you have a beefy graphics card. $17 That seems unlikely. 🙂

I didn't actually put that build together myself; it was already a pre-built configuration from them. I tried sketching out my own setup, but I can't seem to get it right. I keep getting lost in the details—I guess I'm just getting old, which is why I'm looking for some help here. Regarding the monitor, I have an HP, though I can't recall the exact model. It’s 33 inches, with a max resolution around 2500 x something... I'm at work right now, so I'm not entirely sure. Also, I have absolutely no intention of overclocking or anything like that.

Just to add to my previous point... thanks for getting back to me so quickly. But why exactly aren't you willing to put a build together? I guess just give me some kind of suggestion so I don't end up throwing my money down the drain. My budget isn't exactly growing in the backyard, so I'd like to stay within a reasonable limit. $83 Maybe thirty-six months.

To be honest, I’m not really the type of guy who sits around building custom PC builds—that’s just not my style. But hey, hang tight until tonight; you'll definitely get some solid suggestions from the guys here who live for this stuff, so don't sweat it. I mean, seriously—if you're looking at a 1440p resolution and planning to actually play games, you're going to need a pretty beefy graphics card to handle all those extra pixels. Anyway, don't worry too much—just give the thread a little time to catch someone's eye, and they'll help you put together a killer 😁
.

Larry Ortiz5 said:I don't usually put together builds myself; it isn't really my thing. But I suppose you should wait until later this evening. You'll likely get some solid suggestions from the guys who specialize in this, so there's no need to worry. I mean, if you're aiming for a 1440p resolution and planning on gaming, you're probably going to need a pretty beefy graphics card to handle that load. Anyway, just hang tight. Once the experts see this thread, they'll help you put 😁
together.

Patience pays off
thanks

Real talk, though:
patience pays off,
thanks so much!

Maybe double-check your monitor's native resolution again... honestly, it probably wouldn't hurt to look up the specific model too.

33 inches?
That sounds more like a TV than a monitor, haha.🤷

cosmicseal98

John Doe:

AMD FX-Series X8 8320
CM 212+ EVO
ASUS M5A97 R2.0 EVO
A-DATA 8GB 1600 MHZ
KINGSTON V300 120 GB SSD
SAPPHIRE R9 290 4GB + AC XTREME III
LG GH24NS95 SATA
FORTRON FSP 650W 80+ SILVER
THERMALTAKE CHASER A21

Total: $2765 - Future City (free assembly and shipping)

You should give the guys over at Future City a nice polite ask—they can probably grab you an aftermarket cooler from Port and swap it onto that R9 290, since the stock cooler is honestly pretty trash. Anyway, if $100 isn't breaking the bank for you, this is my go-to recommendation if you want to get the most bang for your buck—especially since you'll need a beefier card like the R9 290 to handle that higher resolution you're running.

An i7 isn't even necessary for a gaming rig; an FX 83xx or an i5K will do just fine. And seriously, stay away from those pre-built setups—99% of the time they're put together way worse than if you just pick out the parts and build it yourself.

Also, I'm pretty sure you don't have a 33" monitor, but rather a 30"—specifically an HP ZR30W, if I'm remembering right?

graniteharbor85 said:cosmicseal98

John Doe

The AMD FX-Series X8 8320. I suppose it’s worth mentioning.
CM 212+ EVO
ASUS M5A97 R2.0 EVO
A-DATA 8GB 1600 MHz.
The Kingston V300 120 GB SSD. It’s a basic little drive, I suppose. Probably fine if you just need to get a system up and running on a budget. Nothing groundbreaking, really.
SAPPHIRE R9 290 4GB + AC XTREME III
The LG GH24NS95 SATA drive. I suppose it does its job.
FSP Fortron 650W 80+ Silver.
The Thermaltake Chaser A21. I suppose it's worth looking into.

$1,500 USD total. $2765 Future City offers free assembly and delivery. I guess that might be worth considering.

Maybe just ask the guys over at Future City nicely, and they might be able to source an aftermarket cooler from Port and install it on your R9 290. I guess the stock cooler isn't exactly great. Anyway, if you have these... $100 It isn't too much, I suppose. If you want to get the most value out of your money, that's my recommendation. You'll likely need a more powerful graphics card, like an R9 290, given your higher resolution requirements.

I guess an i7 isn't strictly necessary for a gaming build; an AMD FX-Series X8 8320 or even an i5K should do the job just fine. As for those pre-built rigs, I'd probably steer clear. In most cases, they aren't nearly as well put together as something you'd build yourself from individual components.

I suspect you don't actually have a 33" monitor, but rather a 30" one—specifically an HP ZR30W, if I'm not mistaken.

I don't think that $50 difference is really the issue. I like everything suggested above, so thanks for that. However, I suspect Future City doesn't offer consumer credit, and that's essentially my only way to fund this build. It's unfortunate, but I'll send them an email once I get home later. Regarding the monitor, it isn't a TV; it's an HP model, and I'll check the specific designation later so you have the details. As for the motherboard, I assume the RAM limit is 32 GB? Also, would it be possible to upgrade to a newer processor in two or three years? I noticed an SSD was suggested, which wasn't in my original plan, but I suppose I should just go with it—no sense in being cheap, I guess. I'll probably just repurpose my old 180 GB drive as a secondary drive.

Thanks, everyone. I think I'll just wait a bit until the other experts weigh in.

Hey.

Hardware requirements aren't really moving fast enough for you to need an upgrade in like, 2 or 3 years. Honestly, 8 GB of RAM should be plenty—and since the graphics card McLovin picked out is actually pretty beefy, you'll probably end up keeping this exact setup for maybe 7 years before you even think about buying a whole new rig... assuming games are even still your thing by then!😁

@cosmicseal98/">@@cosmicseal98

If you're really in the mood to blow some cash, this could work too 😁
I just can't help myself... 🙂 🤣

Adata DDR3 8GB 1600MHz RAM
WD Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 3
Corsair Carbide 200R Case
Thermaltake Contac 30 CPU cooler
Intel Core i5 3570K processor
2xMSI GTX760 OC TF,2GB(SLI)
MSI Z77A-G45 THUNDERBOLT
EVGA 650W PSU, 80+

$2865 Best Buy

Running GTX760 SLI at 2560x1440 on Ultra settings in games like Metro Last Light at 48fps, Tomb Raider at 95fps, and Bioshock Infinite at 74fps... it’s definitely playable...
These cards don't have any cooling issues; actually, they're tucked into a great case...

Using a JPMorgan Chase consumer credit line or Diners Club for 36-60 monthly installments...

Or maybe something even more powerful...

2xXFX R9 280x 3GB(CF)
EVGA 650W PSU, 80+
Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB 3.5 Hard Drive
KINGSTON 8GB, 1600MHz RAM
Thermaltake Contac 30 CPU cooler
AMD FX-Series X8 8320 processor
Gigabyte MB GA-990XA-UD3 S.AM3+
Spire Sonex 6010 gaming case
2xXilence 120mm case fans + 2x120mm pre-installed in the case

Total: $1,500 USD $239
Magazine
Free assembly included with the option for 36-60 monthly installments....

On an installment plan, this would be over $83, but look, McLovin put together that build with the R9 290, while I went with this dual-card setup... 😁
It's questionable whether you'll ever truly need all this power, but at least you'll be set for a long time... 🙂

Man, even a single GTX 780 can handle just about anything—imagine what two of them could actually do 🤣

Intel Core i7 3770 (3,4 GHz, Ivy Bridge, 8 MB, Socket 1155, 77W) box
Asrock B75 Pro3
VC AMD Radeon R9 290 4G GDDR5 + cooler
Adata DDR3 8GB 1600MHz, AD3U1600C2G11-R
LG DVD±RW 24x GH24NS95 SATA black bulk
Linkworld LC3191-06C2222, full ATX micro ATX gaming Case Seagate ST1000DM003
Seagate ST1000DM003, 1TB, 7200 rpm, 64MB, SATA 6Gb s
Fortron Raider S PSU 550W, 80+ SILVER

$7,664.28 (maybe around $8,300 total after taxes)
Micro Center

Since you aren't really planning on overclocking anything, I guess there isn't much point in going with an FX chip or an i5. I went with the i7 because the GPU is pretty powerful, and you probably need a decent processor just to keep up with it, plus using an i7 means you won't have to worry about upgrades for a few years. If you feel like an i7 is overkill, I suppose you could just grab an i5 4570 and a B85 motherboard instead.

People don't shop using debit cards—they use credit—so seriously, screw Google. 😁

I haven't really thought much about Osmanko lately, but I guess it's one of those things that just stays on your mind. kaže:
Man, I’ve got a Wodoo and a single R9 280X running everything in sight—let alone two of them. 🤣

We really need to start looking ahead. Thinking about what's coming next matters. 😁

Benjamin King2 said:You don't buy stuff on a card; you buy it on credit. I swear, Future is out to get me. 😁

Man, forget paying with a card. Honestly, I’d much rather just use cash like a normal person. 😁

Benjamin King2 said:People don't buy things based on what's on their debit card; they use credit. Honestly, Future can go jump in a lake. 😁

Yeah, unfortunately. I did send them an email to see if they might change their minds. Everything you guys mentioned is valid, though the McLovin-esque configuration is what really sticks out to me. Now I have to hunt for hardware everywhere, compare prices, payment methods, and all that.
Feel free to toss out more suggestions—and maybe bump the price up by 10% because of those 36x units.
Thanks, everyone.
Oh, and regarding the monitor, it's an HP LP3065.

Personally, I’d steer you toward the r9 280x or a GTX 980. Given that high resolution you're aiming for, the 290 or a GTX 780 is basically asking to melt inside a case when running at QHD versus FHD. Even once the 280x starts feeling its age, the 290 will be right there with it; the only way that card keeps an edge is if you start cranking down the settings. When you invest in a high-end card, you're buying peace of mind for a long time. Someone who bought a Radeon HD 5970 back in the day might just be starting to feel the itch to upgrade now—assuming it hasn't kicked the bucket already. Honestly, rather than paying the premium for those top-tier options plus the cost of a cooler (which is roughly $117), I'd suggest saving that cash. If you sell your current setup, the leftover difference should be enough to pick up a solid mid-range card later on...
P.S. I’m also of the mind that you don't need anything beefier than an i5-3570K or an FX-8350, especially with that high resolution in play. In fact, if you grab an i7-4770 instead of the FX-8350, it costs twice as much, which leaves you with $333 more in your pocket.
It really comes down to either McLovin's suggestion or Woodu's alternative, though I personally lean toward the weaker GPU option here.
David Sanders4
Take a look at this benchmark featuring the GTX 680; check out how little difference there is between Intel processors at lower resolutions compared to the one you'll actually be gaming on. There's almost no gap. It's pretty much the same phenomenon where you see a $100 AMD chip performing nearly as well as an Intel chip that costs three times as much.

Intel Core i5 ASUS ROG

Corsair Vengeance Gigabyte GTX 770 Western Digital Black

LG

XFX Cooler Master

8 $100 bestbuy.com

Timothy Fisher79 said:Intel Core i5 ASUS ROG

LG

8 $100 Amazon.com

I like this one too, though if I recall correctly, it's just an online store. I sent over a few emails regarding the upcoming tech conference in San Francisco, so we'll see.
Anyway, I'll let you know.

I guess I was looking into the Samsung SH-224DB sat Bulk in black, just thinking about whether it’s still worth picking up for a basic setup. It seems like one of those standard optical drives that doesn't really demand much attention, though I suppose there are plenty of other options out there if you're looking for something more specific.
I suppose we could talk about the Intel Core i7 4770, though I'm not entirely sure what there is to say about it at this stage. It’s an older chip, but I guess it still holds its own if you aren't trying to run anything too demanding by modern standards. It might be fine for basic tasks or some lighter gaming, but maybe don't expect miracles.
I suppose we should probably take a look at the Asus H81-PLUS motherboard.
I was looking at some specs for that Adata DDR3 8GB 1600MHz stick—specifically the AD3U1600C2G11-R—and I guess it’s worth noting for anyone trying to patch together an older build. It's pretty standard stuff, really. If you're just trying to get a legacy machine back on its feet, it might do the job, though I suppose there aren't many reasons to hunt these down unless you're already committed to an older platform.
I was looking at this VC Sapphire AMD Radeon R9 290 4G GDDR5 card with the dual DVI-D, HDMI, and DisplayPort outputs. It seems like a decent option if you can find one in good shape, though I guess it depends on what kind of power supply you're running to handle it.
I suppose I should mention the Toshiba DT01ACA100 1 TB 3.5. It’s a decent enough drive if you aren't looking for anything too fancy, though I guess it depends on what you're actually trying to do with your setup.
I've been looking at the Corsair Carbide Series 200 R Case in Black lately, and I guess there isn't much to say without getting into the weeds. It’s a decent enough chassis if you aren't looking to overcomplicate things, though I suppose whether it actually holds up depends on what kind of build you're planning. It seems fine for a standard setup, but I might be being too cautious.
I guess I’m looking at this Fortress Raider 550W 80+ power supply. It seems like one of those units that might work if you aren't pushing things too hard, but I suppose there are always better options out there depending on what you're trying to build.

7.591,96
I was looking into some consumer credit options recently—specifically comparing Mastercard and Diners Club offerings through Chase—and I figured I’d share my thoughts on how they stack up against each other. It’s a bit of a toss-up depending on what you're actually looking to get out of a line of credit. If you're leaning toward a Mastercard via Chase, you're mostly looking at sheer utility. It’s that reliable, everyday card that works almost anywhere you'd walk into in a major US city. It’s convenient, sure, and the acceptance is basically universal, but sometimes it feels like you're just paying for convenience without getting much back in terms of specialized perks. On the other hand, if you go the Diners Club route, the vibe is a little different. It feels a bit more niche, maybe even a little old-school, but there’s often a specific kind of prestige or specialized reward structure tied to it that might appeal to certain lifestyles. I guess it depends on whether you value that broad, "works everywhere" simplicity or if you want something that feels slightly more curated. I don't have a strong preference either way, but I suppose it really comes down to your spending habits. Maybe one will suit your monthly cycle better than the other, but both have their merits if you know which one fits your specific needs.
+ I suppose I should probably mention the cooler, if we're really going to get into the weeds about this build. It’s one of those things that people tend to overlook until everything starts running hot, which usually happens right when you're in the middle of something important. I guess it might be worth considering how much thermal headroom you actually need, though I'm not entirely sure what everyone else's expectations are here. Maybe it won't make a massive difference, but then again, maybe it will. It's hard to say for certain without knowing the exact load you're planning to run.

Uzi is basically just an online store. The real headache starts after you place an order—it takes them about 7 to 10 business days just to get things moving. Plus, once you pay, they email you the details so you have to head down to the local bank or a check-cashing spot to settle the bill. They don't even start reaching out to their suppliers in Italy, France, or wherever else until they get official confirmation that the funds actually hit their account.

Look, if you’re comparing them to other online retailers, Uzi is definitely the cheapest option around. But honestly? If you're in a rush and can't afford to wait ten days just for the process to kick off, then it might not be worth the hassle. 😁