Quick question about brakes

Yeah, I’d say the MX2 is actually a pretty solid brake... I happen to have one sitting in my inventory if you're looking for one 😉

Ugh, I honestly thought the BB5 held its own against the MX4, and that the BB7 was basically in a league of its own, but clearly, I was dead wrong. 🙂

Hey there!

So, my new bike finally showed up yesterday. Right after I got it all assembled (it was shipped to me from overseas), I noticed something weird. The rear brake pads (those Shimano BR-M445 hydraulics) have this huge gap between the pad and the rotor—like almost 1mm on each side. Meanwhile, the front brake bites "immediately." The pads are sitting right against the rotor with zero air in the lines, so as soon as I pull the lever, I feel that resistance right away.
But when I use the rear brake, nothing happens. The lever pulls almost all the way to the handlebar before it actually starts braking, and even then, it’s pretty weak.
Is there a way to adjust these brakes? And if so, how do I do it?
This is actually my first bike with hydraulic disc brakes, so please bear with me here.

Thanks!

🤷 My guess? You’ve got air in the lines. You need to bleed the brakes, or rather, just one brake.

Anthony Young5 said:The... (hydraulic SHIMANO BR-M445) have a massive gap to the disc—like almost 1mm on each side.

When using the rear brake, it’s even worse—the lever practically hits the handlebar before any actual braking force kicks in, and even then, it isn't particularly strong...
Is there any way to adjust these brakes? And if so, how?

They can be adjusted.
If you look between the brake lever and the handlebar, you'll see a small slot for a 2mm Allen key. Just be careful; some models use a Torx head which looks remarkably similar. Don't try to force it; if the tool feels loose, switch to a different one.
That slot is actually the end of the small adjustment screw connected to the hydraulic piston that pushes the fluid.
By turning that screw, you increase the distance between the brake lever and the handlebar. A turn or two should suffice—you want enough clearance so that when you have two fingers on the grips and pull the brake with the other two, you aren't pinching your fingers against the bar.

Don't skimp on a decent set of brakes, because they are easily the most critical component on your bike.
If your girl is hitting the trails, just get her some hydraulic brakes from a brand you actually trust.
It doesn't matter if you go with Shimano SLX, XT, or even Shimano XTR; at the end of the day, safety is what matters, so buy what you can afford.

Those of us who take off-road riding seriously enough to know exactly what reliable stopping power means.

Kona Nunu 2011
Shimano BR 445

Here’s the deal: Every single time I pull the brake lever even slightly, I nearly faceplant over my handlebars—I've got an 180mm rotor up front and a 160mm one in the back. Is there any way to actually "loosen up" these brakes? I need some actual control so I can modulate the power instead of just slamming into the dirt. Downhill riding is a total nightmare with these things 😢 honestly, I'm terrified I'm gonna end up with zero teeth left 😬 !!

Kona Nunu 2011
Shimano BR 445

The issue is this: every single time I apply even a little bit of brake pressure, I nearly pitch myself headfirst over the handlebars. I’m running an 180 mm rotor up front and a 160 mm one in the back. Is there any way to actually "loosen up" these brakes so I can get some decent modulation? When I'm riding downhill, it's a total nightmare; honestly, I'm terrified I'm going to end up losing my teeth because of these things.

Try messing with that small adjustment screw located between the lever and the handlebar using an Allen key, and then see how the brakes respond. Play around with that setting for a bit, and you might actually find a way to get better control and feel when you're braking.

Unfortunately, the entry-level versions of Shimano hydraulic brakes tend to be rather binary in their operation; they either bite or they don't. Modulation is certainly not one of their primary strengths. One could theoretically install a smaller rotor, but you would simply lose braking power, which you'd then have to compensate for by applying more pressure to the lever—effectively defeating the purpose of seeking better modulation. That is merely a suggestion, however, and I wouldn't recommend it. My advice is to simply adapt, as the intuitive feel for the braking force will eventually develop. Try shifting the brake lever closer to the center of the handlebar so that you can operate it using only one or perhaps two fingers. As for that Allen bolt, its sole function is to adjust the reach of the lever relative to the bar; it has absolutely no impact on modulation.

Since we’re already talking about brakes...
Does anyone know where I can pick up some decent brake pads for a road bike? The ones I've got right now are just cheap BB brands—I've been hunting online, but I don't see anything useful listed over at HRNem...🤷

goldengardener8 said:Since we’re already on the subject of brakes...
Does anyone know where I can pick up some decent road bike brake pads? The ones currently on my bike are just those basic BBB ones, and honestly, they aren't cutting it. I've been scouring the web for a better option, but it looks like HRNem might be the only place carrying what I need.🤷

Look, I really think you should just grab a different brand that’s actually compatible. It’s not worth the headache. 😉

vividraven40 said:Look, you could always just try a different compatible brand 😉

It feels like my hands are tied here... am I right?