CheckEmoji Community · the emoji forum
🏠 Home 🆕 What's new ❓ Unanswered 🔥 Popular 📡 RSS Members 👥 0 online
log in · register
Home › Lifestyle › Hobbies & Leisure › Cycling › Hydraulic vs. mechanical disc brakes: which is better?

Hydraulic vs. mechanical disc brakes: which is better?

Started by analogtrucker13 · · 👁 5 views · 10 replies

📡 Subscribe to replies

Participants analogtrucker13ruggedharbor77Dana Reyes5Chloe Stewart58Patrick King7casualharbor9silentpanther15
analogtrucker13 analogtrucker13 NewcomerOP
4 messages
joined Jun 2010
#1 ·
So, here I am, currently wrestling with these old-school mechanical Tektro brakes, and I’m seriously contemplating making the leap over to hydraulic Avid Juice 5s ($283 per brake). What I’m really trying to get at is: what is the actual reality of these brakes once you're out on the road? Is there a tangible, noticeable difference in stopping power, or am I just chasing a ghost? Has anyone actually spent some real time with these specific models? You see, I’ve lived my whole life with mechanical setups, so the idea of hydraulics is somewhat foreign territory to me. Also, do they suffer from that same annoying squeal when things get wet, just like the mechanical ones do? And honestly, are they even worth the extra cash? Thanks in advance!
ruggedharbor77 ruggedharbor77 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Oct 2009
#2 ·
First thing—just buy used. You can usually snag them for nearly half the price.

Second off, those Juice 5s are incredible brakes. Honestly, they’ll blow your current setup out of the water. They're way easier to modulate, you can pretty much pull them with just one finger without your hands cramping up, and the build quality is just on another level...

There's probably more I could say, but I guess someone else will jump in and cover that.
Dana Reyes5 Dana Reyes5 Member
23 messages
joined Jul 2010
#3 ·
analogtrucker13 said:It’s basically this: I’m currently running mechanical Tektro brakes, but I’m considering upgrading to hydraulic Avid Juices—specifically the 5s$283 per brake.

Look, if you're just riding recreationally, an upgrade like that isn't strictly necessary. Mechanical brakes will serve your needs perfectly well enough. But, if you happen to have extra cash burning a hole in your pocket and simply don't know what else to do with it...🤷
Chloe Stewart58 Chloe Stewart58 Newcomer
4 messages
joined Jun 2010
#4 ·
I’m running Shimano XTR hydraulics myself and honestly, I’m loving them. The real difference comes down to the resin versus metal pad compounds. Resin pads feel smoother and quieter, though they do wear out a bit faster. Metal pads tend to be a little noisier, but they offer solid stopping power and handle heat soak way better—at least, that’s what I’ve been told.
analogtrucker13 analogtrucker13 NewcomerOP
4 messages
joined Jun 2010
#5 ·
I happened upon a set of pre-owned Formula K28 brakes for my $317, and wouldn't you know it, they're sitting right there at a local Walmart where they're retailing for $1,200 apiece? Now, I’ve been offered the entire kit—both sides and everything included—for a mere $950 total, and from what I can tell, they're in perfectly fine condition. So, I find myself wondering: is this actually a savvy deal, and are these brakes even any good in the grand scheme of things?
Patrick King7 Patrick King7 Member
31 messages
joined Jan 2010
#6 ·
I suspect silentpanther15 is stalling by playing games with formulas, though I can't pin down which specific model he's using. Honestly, I think he might have even been pitching them to someone else.
casualharbor9 casualharbor9 Active Member
168 messages
joined Feb 2010
#7 ·
... I've got this absolute junk from those Pro-Max calipers (front wheel, obviously)... one brake pad is blue, the other is black, and the braking power is practically non-existent... yet, when I swap them so both are blue, they bite perfectly fine...

I followed the book on this, really—cleaned the pads (including the black one) and gave them a light sanding—but the brakes only work when they're in that blue combination. Does anyone have a clue why? Why would two different pads even function like this in the first place?
silentpanther15 silentpanther15 Member
20 messages
joined Mar 2004
#8 ·
Patrick King7 said:I honestly think silentpanther15 is playing dirty with those formulas, though I've got no clue which specific model he's using. Pretty sure he even pitched them to someone else once!
analogtrucker13 analogtrucker13 NewcomerOP
4 messages
joined Jun 2010
#9 ·
Listen, I am reaching out to anyone who might actually have some expertise here, because, quite frankly, I am completely flying blind when it comes to hydraulic systems. Currently, my setup relies entirely on mechanical brakes, but I’ve been seriously considering making the jump over to hydraulics—specifically looking at the Formula K24s. Since I find myself in this predicament of total uncertainty, I really need some guidance. Here is the crux of my dilemma: is it possible to simply purchase these brake kits and swap them onto my bike exactly as they are, assuming everything matches up with my old mechanical ones? Because the way I see it, everything seems to be included in the Formula package, but I can't help but wonder... do I need to make a special trip to a local shop like AutoZone or a dedicated bike boutique to pick up extra components just to facilitate the transition from mechanical to hydraulic?
ruggedharbor77 ruggedharbor77 Newcomer
9 messages
joined Oct 2009
#10 ·
analogtrucker13 said:So, look, I'm hoping someone here actually knows their stuff because I’m pretty much flying blind when it comes to hydraulic setups. Right now, I'm running mechanical brakes, but I’m thinking about making the jump to hydraulics—specifically looking at the Formula K24s. Since I don't really have any experience with this, I could use some help. Basically, can I just buy these brakes and swap them onto my bike exactly as they were with the mechanical ones? Everything seems to come in one kit with the Formula setup, but I'm wondering if I'll need to run out to a shop and pick up extra parts just to get the hydraulics to sit where the mechanicals used to be.

The rotors need to have the same mounting style—either Centerlock or a 6-bolt setup. If the new brakes come bundled with a rotor, you should also get some caliper spacers (though usually, if rotors are included, those spacers are too). Also, if you're planning on upgrading to a larger diameter rotor, you definitely need to check the manufacturer's website for your fork to make sure it can handle that size. Most of the time it's fine, but it's worth a quick double-check.
analogtrucker13 analogtrucker13 NewcomerOP
4 messages
joined Jun 2010
#11 ·
Currently, I’m running a 160/160 setup, though I am seriously contemplating bumping that up to a 180/160 in the front, especially since I’ve seen others pulling it off quite successfully

You must log in or register to reply here.

Log in Register

🔗 Similar threads