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Reliable, quiet, and fast: Looking for a new long-term business desktop PC
Reliable, quiet, and fast: Looking for a new long-term business desktop PC
Started by feraljackal21 · · 👁 7 views · 33 replies
#22 ·
🙂 Thanks!
One more thing... I’d also strongly suggest picking up a UPS. Honestly, I can't tell you how many times one of those has saved me from the absolute nightmare of having to rebuild my entire setup because of voltage fluctuations or those constant power outages we get during the winter—and now in the summer too, since everyone’s cranking their AC units at once...
What kind of beast is this? Does anyone know if there are any more reliable options at this price point, or maybe something with a bit more capacity? And would this actually be enough to handle my specific rig?
Atlantic Ocean cables, 850VA/480W, AVR (with Boost and Buck AVR functionality) - $143
One more thing... I’d also strongly suggest picking up a UPS. Honestly, I can't tell you how many times one of those has saved me from the absolute nightmare of having to rebuild my entire setup because of voltage fluctuations or those constant power outages we get during the winter—and now in the summer too, since everyone’s cranking their AC units at once...
What kind of beast is this? Does anyone know if there are any more reliable options at this price point, or maybe something with a bit more capacity? And would this actually be enough to handle my specific rig?
Atlantic Ocean cables, 850VA/480W, AVR (with Boost and Buck AVR functionality) - $143
#23 ·
feraljackal21 said:Well, those are the right words to say to an unsure, well-meaning guy. I really appreciate all the suggestions, advice, and links you've shared—not just now, but many times before!
Let him focus on working hard and making money with this setup, and hopefully, the company will make an effort to provide an employee like him with a brand-new computer in four or five years! ;-)
p.s.—The admin handles the hardware configurations; I’m trying to dig up that specific info online, but I can't find a definitive answer, so I won't spread any misinformation...
Hey admin, when I go to checkout, there's an option right above $667 free assembly and shipping 👍 showing up.
#24 ·
feraljackal21 said:🙂 Thanks!
One more thing... I’d also strongly suggest picking up a UPS. Honestly, I can't tell you how many times one of those has saved me from the absolute nightmare of having to rebuild my entire setup because of voltage fluctuations or those constant power outages we get during the winter—and now in the summer too, since everyone’s cranking their AC units at once...
What kind of beast is this? Does anyone know if there are any more reliable options at this price point, or maybe something with a bit more capacity? And would this actually be enough to handle my specific rig?
Atlantic Ocean cables, 850VA/480W, AVR (with Boost and Buck AVR functionality) - $143
I'm no expert by any means, though I do know APC makes solid gear. It really just comes down to whether it has enough wattage to support everything plugged into it... so, most likely just the monitor and the PC tower.
#25 ·
Alright... APC, noted. It’s good to have that on my radar in case the question comes up. Thanks again, everyone!
#26 ·
Google units are decent UPS options. They've been in the US market for about a decade now, manufactured in Mexico. Sure, APC is a higher-quality, more prestigious brand, but specs matter more than names. When you're buying, pay attention to:
1. How many battery-backed outlets there are (for your PC, monitor, maybe a light peripheral like a router). Don't count speakers, printers, or scanners here.
2. The number of surge-only outlets (these don't have battery backup, just protection)—this is where you plug in things like printers, scanners, or speakers.
3. AVR (automatic voltage regulation) for stabilizing voltage.
4. Raw wattage isn't everything; even a 350W UPS will give you a few minutes, which is enough to save your work. If you want a serious UPS meant for working through longer outages, expect to pay a premium.
5. Whether it includes phone line protection (for modems, faxes, or internet).
6. If your internet comes via coax cable, you'll need to handle protection differently; you won't find a UPS with built-in coax protection.
7. If you want a "smart" UPS with software to monitor device status and battery levels, look for models with a USB port for communicating with your computer. Some use RS232C (serial) ports, but those have mostly been phased out of modern motherboards. If a board actually has one, it’s usually just internal headers, so you'll have to hunt down your own custom cable and connector.
8. The type of power outlets. Some come with non-US plugs, forcing you to use adapters, or they use those weird computer-style connectors like a monitor power cable—which is just a headache for cabling. It's best to stick with standard US outlets.
9. Whether the battery is replaceable.
With a UPS, you have to distinguish between battery runtime (protection against total power loss)—those are the battery backup outlets—and AVR (protection against voltage drops/stabilization), plus general surge protection and filtering—which usually applies to all outlets.
If you're on the internet via coax, just grab a power strip with a switch and built-in surge protection—some even come with coax connectors—to protect against lightning strikes.
1. How many battery-backed outlets there are (for your PC, monitor, maybe a light peripheral like a router). Don't count speakers, printers, or scanners here.
2. The number of surge-only outlets (these don't have battery backup, just protection)—this is where you plug in things like printers, scanners, or speakers.
3. AVR (automatic voltage regulation) for stabilizing voltage.
4. Raw wattage isn't everything; even a 350W UPS will give you a few minutes, which is enough to save your work. If you want a serious UPS meant for working through longer outages, expect to pay a premium.
5. Whether it includes phone line protection (for modems, faxes, or internet).
6. If your internet comes via coax cable, you'll need to handle protection differently; you won't find a UPS with built-in coax protection.
7. If you want a "smart" UPS with software to monitor device status and battery levels, look for models with a USB port for communicating with your computer. Some use RS232C (serial) ports, but those have mostly been phased out of modern motherboards. If a board actually has one, it’s usually just internal headers, so you'll have to hunt down your own custom cable and connector.
8. The type of power outlets. Some come with non-US plugs, forcing you to use adapters, or they use those weird computer-style connectors like a monitor power cable—which is just a headache for cabling. It's best to stick with standard US outlets.
9. Whether the battery is replaceable.
With a UPS, you have to distinguish between battery runtime (protection against total power loss)—those are the battery backup outlets—and AVR (protection against voltage drops/stabilization), plus general surge protection and filtering—which usually applies to all outlets.
If you're on the internet via coax, just grab a power strip with a switch and built-in surge protection—some even come with coax connectors—to protect against lightning strikes.
#28 ·
Look, as far as cases, fans, and coolers go... you're fine. Zalman makes solid cases and their fans are decent enough. If being dead silent is your main priority, check out the Z3+; it comes with an extra fan and built-in potentiometers so you can dial the noise down. If your cooler ends up being too chunky for the Z3 because it's over 8 inches wide, grab the Z9+ instead. It’s just as good, just wider, and comes with three fans plus those speed regulators. In this price range, it's probably the best bang for your buck you're gonna find.
#29 ·
Well, well... some excellent new intel here that might just become relevant again! Thanks for the heads-up!
So, there’s a chance that specific cooler won't fit inside that particular chassis... Hmm. Though, I'd assume if the crew over at Micro Center or wherever you go to buy and build custom rigs saw that, they’d react immediately and offer an alternative? I mean, if they're handling the builds, they wouldn't have any other choice... :-)
I’ll keep Z9 + in mind and suggest it if the need arises! ;-)
So, there’s a chance that specific cooler won't fit inside that particular chassis... Hmm. Though, I'd assume if the crew over at Micro Center or wherever you go to buy and build custom rigs saw that, they’d react immediately and offer an alternative? I mean, if they're handling the builds, they wouldn't have any other choice... :-)
I’ll keep Z9 + in mind and suggest it if the need arises! ;-)
#30 ·
Of course they’re going to react, but honestly, you already know the backup plan if things go south—just in case they try to cut corners on quality...
With the Z3 + and Z9, the best part is that they come with plenty of valves, and the ones included are actually top-tier. It saves you from having to hunt down high-end aftermarket parts that'll run you over $20 a piece...
With the Z3 + and Z9, the best part is that they come with plenty of valves, and the ones included are actually top-tier. It saves you from having to hunt down high-end aftermarket parts that'll run you over $20 a piece...
#31 ·
True enough... Just like how it would’ve been much better if he’d just thrown that Z9 into the proposal from the jump so we could all have had some peace of mind! But hey, whatever, we'll deal with it when we deal with it. Thanks again, I guess..
#32 ·
I believe any cooler up to 160mm will fit inside the Zalman Z1/Z3 cases (and most others for that matter), though unfortunately, the official website doesn't explicitly state that if I recall correctly. That said, the Z3+ is definitely the best value you can find in the $100
price range.
If you're looking at higher-end chassis, I’d recommend the Fractal R4 (which runs about $120+) review. Personally, I think the black or white versions look much better than that "mirror finish" titanium grey
.
price range.
If you're looking at higher-end chassis, I’d recommend the Fractal R4 (which runs about $120+) review. Personally, I think the black or white versions look much better than that "mirror finish" titanium grey
.
#33 ·
We shall see, I suppose... Thanks for throwing another option on the table. ;-) btw—you won't find any Z3 + at AMD, though they do carry the Z9+.
#34 ·
You’ve got the Z3 and the R1 (the latter is a bit more enclosed, though the Zalman version definitely has a more elegant look)
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