Budget PC build around $350

Hey everyone!

So, I'm looking at putting together a rig for about $833. I don't need a monitor, a GPU, or an HDD.

GPU -

HDD - Seagate BarraCuda 320GB 8MB cache

The plan is to use this thing for some gaming and specific software, so obviously, a better CPU and more RAM would be ideal. Lay some recommendations on me and we'll see what happens🙂

Also, it would be killer if someone could actually assemble it for me (either free or just cheap as possible). I'm around the Indianapolis area—maybe Links? I wouldn't mind picking it up in person too.

The ASUS Prime features an AMD970/SB950 chipset with DDR3 support, offering integrated audio, Gigabit LAN, SATA, RAID, and PCI-E. It also supports SLI and USB 3.0, all on a standard ATX form factor using the AM3/AM3+ socket.
The LC POWER LC-CC-95 cooler—it covers everything from socket 775 through AM3, I think.
It’s an Intel Core i7, socket AM3+, clocking in at 3.3GHz with 16MB of cache. It's an Octa-core, I guess.
It’s an ANTEC VSK-4000B MIDI case, black, and it doesn't come with a power supply.
It’s a 450W unit, specifically that Dell OptiPlex model. It runs on ATX v2.31, has a 120mm fan, and includes PFC. I guess.
Looks like we're looking at 8 GB of Corsair Vengeance DDR3 memory running at 1866MHz. I guess that should be plenty for most tasks.

Total: $894 Here are the links.

Looking for a new case? If yours already fits an ATX motherboard, I’d say just stick with what you have and maybe put that extra cash toward a better power supply instead.

crimsonstag84 said:ASUS Prime motherboard, AMD970/SB950, DDR3, audio, G-LAN, S-ATA, RAID, PCI-E, SLI, USB 3.0, ATX, socket AM3 / AM3+
LC POWER LC-CC-95 cooler, socket 775/1155/1156/1150/AM2/AM3
Intel Core i7 processor, socket AM3+, 3.3GHz, 16MB cache, Octa-core
ANTEC VSK-4000B case, MIDI, black, no PSU
450W power supply, Dell OptiPlex series, ATX v2.31, 120mm fan, PFC
PC-14900 memory, 8 GB, Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1866MHz

Total: $894 Newegg

Looking for a case? If it fits an ATX board, just stick with what you have and put that extra money toward a better power supply instead.

I'd rather go with 4 GB of RAM right now and let them grab a decent power supply with the price difference. At the end of the day, regardless of any 80+ rating or wattage, that's just a basic Microsoft Office grade unit.

Thanks crimsonstag84, I'm feeling this 🙂

I’ve got the case, but honestly, I’m a bit clueless—can I actually fit an ATX motherboard in here? (Call me stupid, but I genuinely don't know).

So, a few days ago, my PC just completely died on me. I left it running overnight, and when I woke up, it was totally unresponsive. Nothing happens when I hit the power button, so I figured it was time to just grab some new parts. While I was digging around online trying to troubleshoot what went wrong, I stumbled upon some info suggesting the power button itself might be busted, so maybe moving everything to a new case would fix it.

That’s why I’m stuck wondering if I can make this current case work or if I really need to go out and buy a new one.

Crucial RAM 8GB, 240-pin DIMM, DDR3 PC3-12800, CL11
I guess we’re looking at the AMD FX-8300 GIGABYTE Motherboard Desktop.
I guess I'm looking at the AMD FX-8300 GIGABYTE Motherboard Desktop.
The EVGA 450W Power Supply—an 80 Plus Bronze unit.
I guess the DeepCool Gammaxx 200 might be worth looking at.
I guess I'm looking for an MS Knight case, but without the power supply.

Total: $400.00 Downtown $866 Downtown

That motherboard just arrived at the downtown shop, so you might as well grab it—it comes with a better power supply included.

I’m guessing the first build is slightly better because of the memory, but it’s rocking a weaker power supply than the second one, right?

How much extra would I even be looking at for the first setup if I decided to swap in a better power supply?

Personally, I’d probably go with the i5 over the AMD option here.

1 x Intel Core i5-4460 Processor (3.20GHz, 1MB, 6MB, 84 W, 1150) Box
1 x 8GB DDR3 Corsair RAM, 1600MHz, CL11, Value, CMV8GX3M1A160C11
1 x FORTRON 400W HEXA Plus Power Supply, 12cm fan
1 x Asrock H81M-VG4 R2.0, Intel 1150 Socket H81
1 x MS KNIGHT midi tower case (no power supply included)

$893
amazon.com - free shipping if you pay cash

I think that second build from amazon.com that crimsonstag84 posted is definitely the way to go for me. The only thing is, I’d probably swap out the memory for the stuff in that first configuration—that one’s actually better, right? So, here’s what my final setup would look like:

Kingston 8GB 1866MHz DDR3 HyperX Fury Black Series RAM
AMD FX-8300
AMD FX-8300 GIGABYTE Motherboard Desktop
EVGA 450W Power Supply
Cooler Master Gammaxx 200
Intel 1150 Socket H81 case (no PSU)

+ my own graphics card and hard drive

MSI R7 250 GDDR5 1GB/128bit
Western Digital 320GB HDD

Can someone just give me a quick thumbs up that this is solid before I pull the trigger and order everything? 🙂

Zachary Bishop11 said:I think that second build from amazon.com that crimsonstag84 posted is the best fit for me. I’d just swap the memory with the stuff from the first build (that one's better, right?). So, the final setup would look like this:

HyperX Fury Black Series RAM
AMD FX-8300
AMD FX-8300 GIGABYTE Motherboard Desktop
EVGA 450W Power Supply
Cooler Master Gammaxx 200
Intel 1150 Socket H81 case without PSU

+ my own GPU and HDD

MSI R7 250 GDDR5 1GB/128bit
Western Digital 320GB HDD

Can someone just double-check if this works before I pull the trigger? 🙂

👍 Just buy it while they still have stock 😁

So, I'm pulling the trigger on this order tomorrow. 😁

Just had one more thing cross my mind. I was scrolling through the thread below and saw people talking about how you can overclock the AMD FX-8300 to squeeze out some extra clock speed. Since I’ve never messed with overclocking before, is there actually a risk involved if I decide to push it? I'm assuming I'd need a beefier cooler to handle the heat, right? If that's the case, can someone drop a link to an example so I can see how much of a price jump we're talking about compared to what I have now?

It’s doable, and honestly, the risk is pretty negligible if you actually know what you're doing. Plus, you get a much better cooler for $17 more:

http://www.cnn.com/lc-power-cpu-hl...intel-amd.aspx

Look, I don't know much about this stuff, so that might be an issue. Honestly, I expected the price tag to be way higher, but considering what I’m looking at gaining from overclocking, this is actually a steal.

So, should I just track down one of my buddies to handle it, or maybe see if CNN would take care of it? Also, is this cooler actually going to hold up if I decide to push the processor?

Stores don't do overclocking... the cooler should be plenty for some moderate OC.

There's a ton of guides online for overclocking Intel Core i7 chips on Gigabyte boards, so you can probably teach yourself.

You're right, I'll chill out.

What kind of clock speed are we talking about for a moderate overclock? Like, should I aim for 3500, 3700, or maybe push it to 4000?

Zachary Bishop11 said:Fair point, I'll try to fix it.

What kind of clock speeds are we talking about for a moderate OC? 3500, 3700, maybe 4000?

You can definitely hit 4000, probably even more. Just look at the Intel Core i7 models—they're basically factory-overclocked versions of older chips anyway. You can easily squeeze out a bit more juice. So yeah, 4000 is a safe bet...

Alright, so we’re looking at $4,000 once I swap in that better cooler.

Thanks for the assist, everyone. 😉

CNN won't even touch my PC build because I didn't buy every single part directly from them...

Think about the long-term implications.
AMD might be willing to do it, but they're definitely going to charge you extra for it.

Take a quick look at this build:

FX 8300
BEN NAVIS
GIGABYTE 970A-DS3P
KINGSTON 8GB 1600 MHZ
SS STRIDER 500W 80+ BRONZE
MS VOYAGER MIDI ATX

= $920.

- you'll get free assembly—and honestly, looking at them, they might even overclock your PC for you since they used to offer pre-overclocked builds back in the day (just ask them and let me know what they say).

The price for this build over at Micro Center is $882 plus $40 for the assembly fee since I’m not grabbing every single part from them. That brings the total to $922.

It’s basically the same price as your setup, so what’s actually the difference here? A slightly better power supply and memory running at 1866MHz instead of 1600MHz?