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Home › Miscellaneous › Miscellaneous › Ružička: A brand new, original card game that will blow your mind!

Ružička: A brand new, original card game that will blow your mind!

Started by darkheron2 · · 👁 4 views · 16 replies

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Participants darkheron2silentsailor5copperraven8Zachary Davis5Raymond Campbell35Kevin Ramos10A
darkheron2 darkheron2 MemberOP
21 messages
joined Jul 2009
#1 ·
I’ve spent the better part of the last 30 years obsessing over, documenting, and dissecting social games and card games—and honestly, I’ve had to tweak and adapt a ton of them just to make them work for the American way of life. All that tinkering actually sparked a bunch of new ideas, which eventually led me to become an actual game designer myself. Anyway, there’s this tight-knit community of card fanatics who live and breathe the new, original DAMJANICUS games. I recently joined their ranks, which means I’ve officially been given the green light to share all the latest updates and new releases right here.
One of the absolute crown jewels of Domjanicus is a game called Subrosa being Ružička. It’s basically the result of years upon years of grinding, playing, and constant refinement. If you ask me—and I’ve actually run the numbers through a mathematical model—the sheer complexity and combinatorial depth of this thing actually puts Bridge to shame. Seriously, it’s on a whole different level. Now, obviously, launching a brand-new game takes serious cash, so people don't usually go around claiming Subrosa is ready to take over the global stage, even though the content absolutely deserves that spotlight. In the States, we already have a solid circle of about 30 players, and we're already running tournaments and championships.
Before we got to Subrosa, there was the predecessor: Ružička. I’m going to break it down for you here. It was originally released as this super chill, yet decently challenging and incredibly addictive card game. Right after it hit the scene, everyone started buzzing about it—people were saying it was a total phenomenon, a complete addiction they just couldn't walk away from. Plus, it serves as the foundation for the aforementioned Subrosa; since it includes some extra rule tweaks, it’s also what people use while they're still mastering the harder stuff.
Give it a shot. Honestly, I think Ružička will give you some pretty great, unforgettable moments at the table.
darkheron2 darkheron2 MemberOP
21 messages
joined Jul 2009
#2 ·
Ružička

Ružička is basically a four-player game where you sit across from your partner—two against two, sitting face-to-face.
THE CARDS: You’re playing with a stripped-down deck of 32 cards, ranked the usual way: 7, 8, 9, 10, J, Q, K, and A.
The points only come from the face cards, and here’s how they break down:
Jack, 1 point
Queen, 2 points
King, 3 points
Ace, 4 points

That’s 40 points total right there. On top of that, every trick you pull off earns you an extra point, plus there's a 5-point bonus if you take the final trick.
So, in one single dealing, there are 53 possible points up for grabs.
The Dealer hands them out in a 3-2-3 pattern, meaning everyone starts with 8 cards. The player to the dealer's right goes first. In the next round, the dealer shuffles and deals again. One little exception though: at the end of a hand or the start of a new one, if you were on the winning side, you skip your turn as the Dealer.
HOW TO PLAY: The action starts with the player to the dealer's right, who just tosses out any card they want.
After that, everyone else follows suit by playing a higher card in the same suit—what we call "following the lead"—or they can play the same rank or higher using the Joker-color. You might notice this Joker-color acts a bit like a trump, but it’s definitely its own thing.
First off, you only play the Joker-color if you actually feel like it; there's zero obligation. To beat the previous card using the Joker-color, your card has to be at least the same rank or higher. It doesn't work like a traditional trump where you can "cut" a high card with something weaker.
At the jump, the Joker-color is always the Ace of Hearts, but someone might switch that up during the first round.
Everyone tries to beat the last card played, either by staying in the same suit or going with the Joker-color.
If you don't have a card to play or you just don't want to fight for it, you just toss a card onto the pile—anything, really—but it won't beat what's already there. We call that "Discarding." Once you discard, you're out of the running for that specific trick.
Every round has to finish, meaning everyone has to play exactly one card.
A single trick can actually drag on through multiple rounds. Basically, once all four players have laid down a card, it comes back to the first player. If nobody "overruled" them—meaning their highest remaining card still holds the lead—they take all four cards and lead the next trick.
If their partner was the only one to beat them in the first round, the trick is also over and goes to the partner.
But, if any of the opponents managed to "overrule" them, the first player has to keep the momentum going into the next round. You've got to see the round through to the end. That means everyone plays another card. Only when the opponents stop being able to beat the lead does the trick go to whoever played the last winning card.
And remember, if you discarded, you can't "overrule" anyone in the next round, even if you're holding a monster card.
Here’s an example of a trick that dragged on for four whole rounds:
Player I | Player II | Player III | Player IV
Round 1: 7-Spades | 8-Spades | 8-Ace of Hearts (Joker) | 9-Ace of Hearts
Round 2: 10-Spades | 9-Diamonds (discard) | Ace-Diamonds (discard) | J-Spades
Round 3: K-Spades | 8-Clubs | Q-Clubs | Ace-Spades
Round 4: Ace of Hearts | 10-Clubs | K-Diamonds | 7-Diamonds
Player I takes the trick. They then lead a new card to start the next trick, and so on.

BIDDING: This happens when it’s Player I's turn, but an opponent "overruled" them in the previous round. The trick isn't decided yet, so you move to the next round. If Player I doesn't have the goods or doesn't want to fight, they can discard, but they play that card face down. Only if it becomes clear the trick is going to continue does he flip it over; otherwise, he keeps it in his hand.
Example: Player I plays 9-Spades; Player II plays 10-Spades; Player III plays 10-Ace of Hearts (Joker color), and Player IV plays 9-Diamonds (just discarding).
Now Players I, II, and III are still in it, since Player IV discarded and if it comes back to them, they'll just discard again. Player I lays a card down face down. He's discarding, but there's a chance a second round won't even happen. If Player II doesn't want to or can't "overrule," he can just tap out, leaving Player III as the winner of the trick. In that case, Player I takes his face-down card back.
If Player II does decide to "overrule," that face-down card gets flipped over immediately and treated as a discard.
It works the same way for Players I and II if Players III and IV are still in the hunt. If Player III manages to overrule, both previous cards get flipped and treated as discards.

By the end of the second round, it’s the same deal. You check to see if the trick is settled or if you need to push forward.

PROTECTING:If one side manages to sweep all 8 rounds, they’re said to have "blitzed" the rotation players. In that case, they don't get any points for the individual rounds or the final trick—instead, they just bank 40 points based on card values, while their opponents get hit with a -30 penalty.
BREAK: This happens when the players sitting in the 2nd and 4th spots directly overpower each other during a trick, and if the player caught in the middle discards, the leaders take control immediately without any further play.
A Break through the 3rd player is pretty straightforward. Basically, Player 2 overpowers the lead, Player 3 discards, then Player 4 overpowers their partner, leaving Player 1 unable to continue the momentum into the next round. In this scenario, Player 4 takes the trick.
A Break involving Player 1 works a bit differently. If the last person to play is Player 4, and then Player 1 offers a move, Player 2 can actually overpower their own partner (Player 4), triggering another Break. At that point, both Players 3 and 4 have to toss out another card just to wrap up the current round.
CHANGING THE JOKER-COLOR: Only during the very first round of play, anyone can show a Gendarme, which sets the Joker-color for that specific Division. You can only pull this stunt once per Division, and once someone exercises this right, their chosen color is locked in. You don't have to be the first person to play to do this; you can switch mid-turn. From that moment on, the new Joker is what counts. If someone played an Ace of Hearts right before the change, they're treated as if they had the lead but were overpowered—though they can try to take the lead back if the trick carries into the next round.
If someone shows a Gendarme-Ace of Hearts in the first round, the Division proceeds without a Joker-color—we call that an EQUALITY.
The player who decides to change the Joker-color takes on a massive responsibility: they and their partner must win at least 1 point more than the opponents in that Division. So, in a standard game, we're talking a minimum score of 27:26, though it could be different depending on how things shake out.
The side that declares the color gets a little bonus:
+8 points, and you also record the first letter of the active color for that Division.
+20 points if the game is being played without a Joker-color.
If things go south and they lose, that side gets slapped with -30 points, while the opponents just keep whatever they earned.
OPEN PLAY: At any point during the game, a player can decide to lay down their remaining cards, provided they have at least 3 left. Once they do this, their partner plays purely defensively, while the player who opened must carry the load until the end. After that, the opponents can also open up, leading to an open style of play.
If the opening player pulls it off, the winning side gets these extra bonuses:
3 cards......................6 points
4 cards.....................10 points
5 cards...................15 points
6 cards...................20 points
7 cards...................25 points
8 cards...................30 points

Keep in mind, since Breaks are still a thing during the rest of the game, you really have to watch your back when Opening. Since your partner isn't actively playing, the risk of a Break is always hanging over your head.
If the opening player fails, they don't get hit with a penalty, but all the cards from the moment they opened belong to the opponents.
If someone opens during a turn that was already in progress, all the cards from that specific turn go straight to the opponents.
SCORING; A single game goes until someone hits 301 or more, and a full match is decided by whoever wins three games.
If a team's current score drops below -200, we do a correction. Both sides get adjusted so that the trailing team sits exactly at -200.
darkheron2 darkheron2 MemberOP
21 messages
joined Jul 2009
#3 ·
For Subrosa—specifically when you're looking at Ružička—they actually designed these custom decks where they ditched the standard suits entirely. Instead of hearts or spades, you've got Rose, Pinecone, Quince, and Herbs.
The ranks are split up between the Lower and Upper House.
The Lower House consists of the small cards marked 1, 2, 3, and 4, while the Upper House features the big ones—basically the large 1, 2, 3, and 4.
Even though they’re way more practical than your run-of-the-mill deck, mass production hasn't really kicked in yet, so they aren't hitting the shelves just yet. I'd probably just leave them on the shelf for now.
darkheron2 darkheron2 MemberOP
21 messages
joined Jul 2009
#4 ·
Honestly, this game is about as close to Seven as you can get—if you can even call it "similar" at all.
silentsailor5 silentsailor5 Member
46 messages
joined Mar 2009
#5 ·
An explanation of how one plays "Seven" ☕
copperraven8 copperraven8 Member
11 messages
joined Aug 2008
#6 ·
That is quite interesting, don't you think?
☕
Zachary Davis5 Zachary Davis5 Member
17 messages
joined Sep 2008
#7 ·
Why don't you go ahead and write the book? I suppose I could handle the digital layout on my computer, and then we can just find a publisher somewhere down the road. :-))
Raymond Campbell35 Raymond Campbell35 Member
13 messages
joined Jan 2008
#8 ·
I’ve gone through the intro post and about half of the second one...

Honestly, it doesn't really strike me as any more interesting than Poker. ☕
Kevin Ramos10 Kevin Ramos10 Member
14 messages
joined Apr 2010
#9 ·
Briskula is king...😁 all that other random junk just doesn't hold a candle to it 😁
darkheron2 darkheron2 MemberOP
21 messages
joined Jul 2009
#10 ·
Zachary Davis5 said:Man, why don't you just write the book? I'll handle the layout on my PC and we can go hunt down a publisher together :-))

Look, I've already written it and laid the whole thing out—now it's your turn to try and find me a publisher.
I'm talking about a massive, 1,600-page encyclopedia covering basically every card and social game under the sun, on top of all these new, original ideas too.
darkheron2 darkheron2 MemberOP
21 messages
joined Jul 2009
#11 ·
GAMBLING GAMES


Let's be real—the gambling games we’re diving into in this section are pretty much designed for one thing: betting. Call them what they are, they're vices, plain and simple, and historically speaking, they've spent plenty of time messing with the development of other card games. But hey, things are changing. Nowadays, even these types of games are starting to get treated a little differently. With the rise of the Slot Machine, the whole "money at the center" vibe of card playing is shrinking fast. For those people who only care about the cash, it's way faster and easier to drain or beef up an account at a machine, which makes the old-school way of playing for money feel like some weird relic from a bygone era. You see some of these games popping up in legendary movies and TV shows—usually played by the main characters—which is honestly why some of them haven't died out yet. For some folks, just getting to know these games is a total treat, even if they aren't actually looking to gamble or risk anything. They play them to feel like their idols, catching a few moments of pure relaxation and fun without having to burn too many brain cells in the process.
To make it feel like actual entertainment and a real night out, you usually use chips to simulate real cash. If you don't have a proper set of chips lying around, whatever—you can use anything from toothpicks to coffee beans, dried beans, or even little pebbles. Usually, everyone starts off with the same amount of chips. A round keeps going until all the chips end up in one person's hands, though sometimes you play until someone runs out. In that case, whoever's holding the biggest pile at the end takes the glory. And in these types of games, rounds are often timed to keep things moving.
Just like any other vice, these games are spread all over the World. Most of the time, you're playing with a standard 52-card deck, though sometimes the deck gets trimmed down, expanded, or loaded up with Jokers.
Before the Dealer starts handing out cards, players toss a certain amount of chips into the middle of the table to build what’s known as the "Pot"—though, let's be honest, sometimes people ditch that rule and settle up between players in different ways.
The whole point of these games is to put together the strongest Poker combination in your hand, though the classic trick-taking style isn't always the go-to. The best combination scoops up the chips from the Pot. And when I say "combination," don't just assume we're talking about standard Poker combinations; sometimes it's just about having the highest sum, being closest to a specific number, and so on—it all depends on what specific game you're playing.
One thing all these games have in common is that they often rely on just a small handful of cards being dealt (the Dealer might only deal 2 or 3 cards at a time). Because of that, luck plays a massive role in how things turn out. One of the big goals for seasoned gamblers is to lure in as many naive victims as possible, which you can't really do if the rules are too complicated. Still, there's always a "fourth dimension" affecting the final outcome—it’s never *just* pure luck, even if it looks that way at first glance. That's why the pros walk away winning almost regularly, while beginners are left celebrating the occasional tiny win during a single Division.
darkheron2 darkheron2 MemberOP
21 messages
joined Jul 2009
#12 ·
Ace


Ace is one of those ancient gambling games—and honestly, just looking at the name, it’s pretty obvious its roots trace back to Germany. It’s been around here in the States for well over a century, and back in the day, it was easily the king of all gambling games. But then, you know, machines showed up, and suddenly its popularity took a massive nosedive—just like every other classic gambling game out there. We actually hit a real turning point with Ace when Western films started blowing up; suddenly, the game felt totally old-fashioned. These days, if you look at the younger crowd, they've almost entirely swapped it out for Poker. Because it used to be such a huge deal, most kids only ever get introduced to Ace through their dads or grandpas—sometimes even sitting down for a hand with them once in a while.
CARDS: So, here’s how this thing works—we’re playing with a stripped-down deck of just 32 cards. Don't worry about the suits; they don't mean a damn thing in this game. As for the values, it's a bit of a weird setup: the Ace is worth 11, the Ten hits for 10, the King is a 4, the Queen is a 3, and the Jack sits at a 2. Then you've got the Nine, Eight, and Seven, which are just worth 9, 8, and 7 points respectively, exactly like what's printed on them. Simple enough, right? Or at least, that's the theory.
Player count and the deal: So, when you’re sitting down for a round of Ace, you've usually got anywhere from two to five players at the table. Before anyone even thinks about placing a bet, you gotta do the draw. Everyone grabs a single card from the deck, and whoever pulls the highest one takes charge as the Dealer—or if you're more into those other gambling games, they call that person the "Banker."
So, look, the Banker plays against everyone else at the table, and there’s this whole thing where people say you gotta "Hold the Bank." Before any dealing even starts, the Banker just tosses chips into the Pot—basically whatever they feel like, though there’s a rule that it has to be at least twice the number of players sitting there. That pile stays right there on the table, acting as the house funds, until either the Banker decides to pull the Bank back or—if you're having a really bad night—one of the other players absolutely wipes them out and cleans out the whole stash. Once that happens, the role of the new Banker shifts to the next player on the right, since the whole game moves clockwise anyway. Simple enough, right? Or at least, that's how it works before things go sideways.
The dealer shuffles, then cuts right in front of the guy on the left. First thing he does is take that bottom card and flip it face up on top. Throughout the whole game, he keeps the deck tucked in his hands and always deals from the bottom—which is classic Ace style, honestly—but it also makes everything super sketchy and ripe for some serious sleight of hand or shady speculation.
The rules of the game: The Dealer hands out one card to everyone at the table, then grabs one last card for themselves at the end. Just to be crystal clear here—the cards are dealt from the bottom, specifically so the rest of the players can't catch a glimpse of what's coming.
Then comes the actual gambling part—which, let's be real, basically boils down to everyone just calling their shots on how many chips they’re pulling from the Bank. If you manage to beat the Banker, you scoop up that exact amount; if you lose? Well, you're handing the same amount straight back to the house. Simple as that.
Look, the whole point of the game is pretty simple—you're trying to hit a sum of 21 with whatever cards you're holding, or at least get as damn close to it as possible without busting. If you actually manage to nail that perfect 21 right out of the gate, you shout "Ace!" loud enough for everyone to hear. Once you've made your move, you just grab whatever amount of chips you decided to put on the line straight from the Banker.
So, here’s how the deal actually goes down—once everyone gets their initial card and calls out their move, the Dealer slides an extra card from the bottom over to the player on the far right. There’s always that cut card sitting face-up on top of the deck, which basically means that side of the pack is locked off and out of play. After that second card hits the table, the guy on the right decides whether he’s "Done" or if he wants "Another," and if he asks for more, the Dealer just keeps dealing them out. Honestly, anyone at the table can demand as many cards as they want—it's pretty much up to you.
Primer :
So, picture this: you’re sitting there and the dealer hands you a Ten right out of the gate, then follows it up with a Seven. Now you’re sitting on a total of 17—not exactly a dream scenario, right? If you decide to take a risk and ask for another card, you’re basically praying for a Face card. I mean, if you pull a King, boom—you hit 21, lay those cards down, and start raking in the chips from the Pot. Easy money. But man, the math can turn on you fast. Say you catch a Seven instead? Now your total hits 24, which means you’ve officially "Busted." Game over. You just hand over whatever you beted and toss your cards back to the dealer like a loser. Then there’s that middle ground—say you grab a Gendarme, putting you at 19. Most of the time, you’re gonna stay put right there. Honestly, that’s how it usually goes—you end up stopping somewhere shy of 21 and just sit there sweating, waiting to see if the dealer is about to ruin your night.
Once the Banker wraps up with the first person, they move right over to the next player, and honestly, the whole deal plays out exactly the same way. Since everyone gets dealt whatever amount they’re looking for, the player just grabs their cards at the end and keeps them. They’ll calculate their total using that initial card—just like everybody else—and then it's entirely up to them whether they want to hit or stay put. It's all about when you decide to call it quits.
Look, here’s how the math works out if you're still trying to wrap your head around it—it's pretty straightforward once you get past the confusion. Say the Banker hits a Sum of 9 card totaling 19, right? Well, anyone sitting there with a total that's 19 or lower—basically everyone who didn't beat that number—they just lose their stake. They're paying out what they bet. On the flip side, if you've actually managed to pull a higher sum than the Banker, you're the one winning. You scoop up an amount equal to your bet straight from the Pot. It's simple, really, though I'm sure someone will find a way to overcomplicate it.
So, if the Dealer hits an Ace, everyone still left in the running—meaning anyone who hasn't already busted or grabbed their winnings by hitting an Ace earlier—has to put down their original bet amount.
If the Dealer pulls a Tropa, all the remaining players just grab whatever they initially put up.
Now, look, you can’t even run this game without a few extra rules in the mix, so pay attention:
1) If someone hits a sum of 14 while they're drawing, they show it, toss those cards, grab two fresh ones from the Dealer, and just keep rolling.
2) Here’s where it gets dicey—if the first player (or the first two) decides to go all-in against the Bank, the Banker goes head-to-head with them first while everyone else just sits there and waits to see what happens. Those bystanders hold onto their initial cards but don't commit to a bet yet. If the Banker wins that duel, he grabs a new top card and keeps playing against the rest of the group. That's when the others finally decide how much they're putting on the line.
If that first player (or duo) actually "breaks" the Bank—as in, wipes out everything in there—you shuffle the whole deck, and the player sitting to the immediate right becomes the new Banker.
3) The Dealer can only raid the Bank under these specific conditions:
- There has to be at least one chip more than double the starting amount sitting in the Bank.
- The Banker's very first card has to be a King or a Seven.
If both those things happen, the round ends, and the Banker sweeps the entire Bank. You gather the cards, hand them to the next guy on the right, and he builds the Bank before dealing.
4) If someone draws two Kec cards as their opening hand, even though the math says 22, it counts as an Ace—we call that a "Dry Ace."
5) If a Kec is sitting right on top of the deck and the Banker pulls it as his first card, that’s the only time he can snag that top card too to score a "Dry Ace."
6) If the Banker starts with a King or a Seven, he can flash it, toss it aside, and take the next card instead. But, unlike the regular players, he doesn't get the luxury of swapping cards if he hits a sum of 14.
7) If the Bank is holding more than half the starting total and the top card turned over is a King or a Seven, the Banker can just claim the Bank as if he’d pulled that card himself.
Once the dealing is done, the Banker can keep going for the next round using whatever's left. When the deck runs dry, you scoop up everything (except what's in the players' hands), shuffle, cut, put the first card back on top, and just keep the momentum going like nothing happened.
As for how long a session lasts, honestly, you guys should just hash that out before you start. You can set a timer or just play until someone's totally broke and out of chips.
darkheron2 darkheron2 MemberOP
21 messages
joined Jul 2009
#13 ·
17 i 4


The "17 and 4" game—this is basically a gritty, old-school German variation of the American Ace. You’re running with a 32-card deck here. In this version, the Kec is worth 11 points, the King gets you 2, and both the Queen and the Gendarme are just 1 point each. Everything else? Just sticks to its face value.
The "Banker" goes head-to-head against everyone else. To get things moving, before any Division even starts, the Banker tosses 20 to 30 chips into the "Bank." Once the cards are shuffled and cut, the dealing begins, and the Banker hands out one card to every player. At the end, the Banker grabs one for themselves too, but they slide it face down onto the table without looking.
Each player puts up their stake, though the total amount of chips can't exceed what’s sitting in the Bank. Everyone calls their bets in a circle, starting with the person to the Banker's right. If someone wants to play big and increase the stake, they’ve got to be smart about it—they have to make sure there’s at least one chip left free for every player following them in the rotation. Note that players don't throw their chips directly into the Pot; they set them in front of them on the table first. If they lose, those chips go into the Pot; if they win, they take their chips back plus whatever they pulled from the Bank.
The Banker starts by dealing to the neighbor on their right, giving them exactly as many cards as they ask for. The goal is the same as in the American Ace: try to hit a sum as close to 21 as possible without going over.
If a player takes three or more cards and busts past 21, they’re out of that Division. They toss their cards aside—without showing anyone—and dump their chips into the Pot.
If a player feels they're close enough to 21 and doesn't want to risk it, they just say "Enough," and the Banker moves on to deal to the next person.
When someone actually hits a perfect 21, they announce it. But unlike the standard American Ace, they don't grab the winnings from the Bank immediately; they hold onto those cards and wait.
Once everyone has their requested number of cards, the Banker flips their first card over and then keeps drawing from the Remainder. Their mission is the same as everyone else's: get near 21, but for the love of God, don't bust.
If the Banker ends up busting past 21, they have to pay out the stakes to anyone who stayed at a lower sum, and they owe double the stakes to anyone who hit exactly 21.
If the Banker stops at something less than 21, they pay the stakes to anyone who has a higher sum, and they pay double to those who hit the exact number. For everyone else, the Banker just scoops up their chips.
Now, if the Banker hits a perfect 21, they just take the stakes from the opponents who also called 21, and they take double the stakes from everyone else. Here’s the kicker: if they hit that 21 using only two cards, they take double from everybody—including the people who already busted and put their chips in the Bank. Those folks actually have to cough up even more to cover it.
For all players, holding two Kecs is a winning Poker combination, and the player holding them shouts out that they've hit 21. However, if the Dealer ends up with those two cards, their payout gets doubled again. Since that's also a 21 made with just two cards, the players end up paying the Banker four times the usual amount.
After the Division wraps up, the role of the Banker rotates to the next person in the circle, and the whole thing starts all over again.
darkheron2 darkheron2 MemberOP
21 messages
joined Jul 2009
#14 ·
Blackjack Blackjack


So, Blackjack Blackjack is basically the American Ace variant—it’s huge in Casinos everywhere, standing toe-to-toe with Poker in terms of how much people obsess over it. You’re playing with a standard 52-card deck where an Ace counts as 1, all those face cards and Tens are worth 10, and everything else just sticks to its face value. In this setup, the Dealer is essentially acting as the "Banker," though if you're just running a home game, you usually rotate who deals every 5 to 10 hands depending on whatever you guys agreed on beforehand.
GAME FLOW: The "Banker" deals one card to everyone—including themselves, obviously. The whole point, just like the other two games we talked about, is to hit a total that gets you as close to 21 as possible without busting.
Once players peep their cards, they lay them face down on the table. Then, everyone tosses out between 1 and 5 chips to set their Role for that hand.
Next, the Banker flips over one card for each player. If anyone happens to be sitting on a natural 21 right then and there, they shout "Blackjack Blackjack" and flip their first card to show it. Now, if the Banker hits that Blackjack first, the round is dead immediately. They scoop up the Roles from anyone else who also hit it, and they take double the amount from everyone else.
If the Banker doesn't have a 21, the game keeps rolling. First off, the players who called out that winning combo get paid double their Role by the Bank. Everyone else can either ask for more cards or just tell the dealer they're "Done." The Dealer moves around the table, dealing one card at a time to each player moving to the right. As soon as someone says they're done, the Dealer just moves on to the next person. At the end, the Dealer grabs the cards for themselves.
A Blackjack Blackjack is announced immediately, and the payout is double, just like the previous round. On the flip side, if you bust and go over 21, you're handing your Role over to the Bank—and you actually owe double what you put in. If the Dealer busts (goes over 21), they pay out double the Roles to everyone still in the game and just give the busters their own money back.
If the Banker decides to stop at a total lower than 21, all the players still hanging in there flip their cards. Anyone with a higher total than the Banker gets paid their Role amount, while the Banker scoops up the chips from everyone else.
Oh, and if your first two cards happen to be two Aces, that counts as a Blackjack Blackjack.
There are a few extra rules that make this thing a little more interesting, too:
- If you manage to grab 5 cards and your total is still under 21, you get a bonus—double your Role, regardless of what the Banker is holding.
- If you pull 6 cards and stay under 21, the Banker pays you triple your Role.
- A Blackjack Blackjack made of three Sevens triples the stakes for everyone in that hand.
- If your first two cards add up to 11, you have the option to double your Role right then and there.
- If your first two cards are a pair, you can split them up and place separate Roles on both, playing them off like they were two different people.
darkheron2 darkheron2 MemberOP
21 messages
joined Jul 2009
#15 ·
Munta.


Man, once upon a time, this game used to be huge around here. And then, just when everyone figured it had finally vanished into thin air, it suddenly pops back up in the rotation of local card sharks—runs for a few months, then disappears again. It’s like that.
PLAYER COUNT: Munta is technically designed for two players, but honestly? You almost always see five or six people hovering around it. It starts with two people going head-to-head, and then the winner tests their luck against a third, then whoever wins that duel takes on a fourth, and so on, moving in a circle. The winner of the previous Division is always the Dealer, playing against whoever is next in line. We keep things moving clockwise, rotating partners as we go.
THE CARDS: We use a standard 52-card deck for Munta. The Kec is worth 1 point, face cards are 10 points, and everything else is just its face value. Suit colors don't mean a damn thing in this game.
THE GOAL: You win if your hand gets as close to 31 as possible. Hitting exactly 31 is the holy grail—we call that a "Munta." If you pull that off, you scoop the chips from the table, shuffle the deck, and deal to the next opponent yourself.
If the first player hits a "Munta" right out of the gate, the second player doesn't even get a chance to play. They just sit there.
BETTING: The Dealer shuffles and lays the cards out. The opponent cuts the deck, but before they do, they put a certain amount of chips on the line—say, 5. Now, the Dealer has four ways to play this:
1) They match the number of chips on the table, and the game kicks off.
2) They can try to lower the stakes by saying, "Less!"
3) They can push for more by saying, "More!" Usually, players agree on a maximum limit before the game even starts.
4) Or the Dealer can say "Less-More!" basically telling the opponent they'll take whatever bet is offered.
Once the money is down, the game starts. If the Dealer wasn't feeling the raise or the decrease, they might just bark, "One!"—in which case, the bet drops down to a single chip.
CUTTING THE CARDS: After the cut, the non-dealer tosses the top portion aside—those cards are dead to us. Then, they cut the remaining stack again; they keep the top part for themselves and hand the bottom part to the Dealer. The piles stay face-down on the table, and everyone takes 3 cards. The Dealer tosses their specific pile away, so those are out too. The opponent flips their remaining cards over and spreads them face-up on the table.
Everyone grabs their 3 cards. The non-dealer also gets a little peek at the first few cards from the off-hand pile. They can't move them or show anyone else, though; they just put them back exactly how they found them. To the Dealer and everyone else watching, only the top card is visible.
After checking and replacing those cards, the non-dealer has two choices:
- Just start the game,
- Or suggest: "Should we re-deal?" They're proposing a fresh start, and if the Dealer agrees, the whole mess repeats from the beginning. If the suggestion is shot down, we play.
THE FLOW: The whole game really boils down to just buying a few cards from the remaining stack, strictly in order.
First, the non-dealer draws cards one by one, being careful not to blow past 31. If they hit exactly 31, they shout "Munta!", slap the cards down, and grab the chips from the Pot. In this game, you can't go over 31 because the cards are face-up—everyone sees what you're pulling. Once a player realizes their next card will put them over 31, they just stop and say, "I'm good."
Then it's the Dealer's turn to draw. Once both have gotten as close to a Munta as they can, they both fold.
The player with the higher sum takes the chips. If it's a tie? The Dealer takes it. The winner shuffles the whole deck and deals to themselves and the next person to their right.
While this is happening, the other folks sitting there (who are essentially passive players at that moment) can bet on either player. Each spectator picks one of the two active players to back, and those players can either accept the bet or pass. For example, if Player A and Player B are playing, anyone betting on Player A is effectively playing against Player B, and vice versa. Spectators aren't allowed to bet against each other.
darkheron2 darkheron2 MemberOP
21 messages
joined Jul 2009
#16 ·
B A C C A R A T


Baccarat is this massive, high-stakes game that actually traces its roots all the way back to 15th-century Italy—can you believe how old that is? It eventually made its way over to France, and from there, it basically exploded and took over the entire World. Nowadays, you can find it on the floor of pretty much every major Casino across America and around the globe. Plus, since everyone started cranking out those Baccarat machines, the game's popularity has just gone through the roof.
PLAYER COUNT: Look, Baccarat is really a three-player game at its core. Sure, you’ll have a crowd hovering around the table, and they can certainly place bets on whoever is active, but let’s be real—they’re just silent spectators. They aren't allowed to make a peep or even give a subtle nod to suggest which way the action should go. It happens sometimes, though—you'll see a dozen people trying to jump in like that, acting like they've got a say when they're really just watching from the sidelines.
Division: So, here's how the whole thing goes down: one of the three players steps up to take on the Banker role—and they’re stuck with it—until every single card in the deck has been played. But get this—during one of the deals, they start playing out the Remainder, just grinding through it until they're completely wiped out.
The direction of the game is going right.
Look, here’s how the math actually shakes out: the Banker is always going up against two opponents—and mind you, these two are totally independent players, just out there playing their own damn games, looking out for number one.
CARDS : So, here’s how the setup works—we’re using a standard 52-card deck. Just to keep things straight, the Ace counts as 1, all the face cards are worth 10, and everything else just sticks to its actual number. Simple enough, right?
Gambling: Before the Dealer even starts dealing out the cards, they toss a set amount of chips right into the middle—into the "Bank"—to set the limit for the round. Then, all the players put their bets down, though nobody can throw out a stake that’s bigger than what the Banker put up. From there, everyone else at the table starts placing bets against the Banker's opponents. And get this—it’s not just about betting on yourself; you can actually place bets on the other players' hands too. Even the spectators hanging around the table can jump in and bet on either player at the same time. It's a bit of a free-for-all, really.
Look, let’s be real—in every single bet you make, the ceiling is always set by the Banker. It doesn't matter how much you think you've got going for you; the limit is always dictated by the house.
So, let’s break this down—it's kind of a wild setup. Imagine Player A drops 5 chips into the pot. Then you've got Player B, who puts in 4 chips for themselves, but they also toss an extra 2 chips onto Player A's hand. It’s a bit chaotic, right? Now, here’s where the math gets interesting. If Player B pulls off the win, they obviously get their 4 chips back, plus they snag an extra payout from the Banker as a reward. But—and this is the kicker—if Player A ends up winning, Player A walks away with 10 chips (that’s their original 5 plus another 5 from the house). But wait, even though Player B lost the hand, they still grab an extra 2 reward chips on top of the 2 they put on Player A. So, basically, even when Player B loses, they still walk away with a little something extra because they bet on the winner. And everyone else at the table who placed bets on Player A? They all get paid out exactly what they put in. It’s a pretty sweet way to keep the momentum going, honestly.
The Dealer’s left hand is doing that little "cut" move, and honestly? We won't see another shuffle until this entire deck is completely bled dry.
THE RULES OF THE GAME: So, the Banker takes the top two cards from the deck—one at a time, mind you—and deals out two face-down cards to each of the two opponents, plus two for themselves. Just like that.
Look, here’s the deal: the whole point for everyone at the table is to hunt down that Sum of 9 card—you just want to add up your cards to hit that magic number. It’s pretty straightforward, really. Like, if you pull a Seven and a Two, boom, you’ve got a 9, which in this game we call "Bak." If that happens, you just flash your cards, claim your prize, and move on. Simple as that.
Look, here’s the deal with how this works—if you end up with a double-digit number when calculating your total, you only care about that last digit. That’s it. Period. So, if you pull a Seven and an Eight, you get 15, which means that player’s final score is just a 5. And just a heads-up, if your sum hits exactly 10? Well, then your final digit is 0, which is basically the absolute worst-case scenario you can hit. Total bummer.
If the Banker is "Bak," then he’s already won—doesn't matter what kind of garbage cards his opponents are holding.
Look, if the Banker finds themselves short on chips when it’s time to pay out the winnings—say the Bank is running a little lean—they just toss their own extra tokens into the pile and settle up with everyone anyway. No sweat.
So, once you've finished adding everything up—and assuming you didn't just get hit with a massive Banker, Bak—the whole thing keeps moving. If you’re still standing in the game, you've got a choice to make: you can either ask the Banker to deal you one more card, or just play it safe and stick with the two you've already got. If you do decide to take that third card, you add its value to your total, but there's a catch—you only care about that last digit. It's all about that final number, right? And hey, if the Banker pulls a Bak, well, that's it—you show your hand and scoop up those chips.
So, look, if things are still up in the air even after you’ve pulled those extra cards—and trust me, we've all been there—everyone just lays their hands on the table. You flash your cards, everyone shows what they've got, and then it's a straight-up showdown to see whose total ends on the higher digit. It's basically a tie-breaker frenzy. If the Banker's final sum happens to be an exact match with one of the players, the win goes to whoever managed to pull it off with fewer cards in their hand. And just in case luck is being extra stingy and you both end up with the same number of cards? Well, the Banker takes the pot. Period. No arguments.
Primer :
image

The Banker’s putting down 6 chips—which basically means no single bet can top that 6-chip limit. It’s the rule of the house, plain and simple.
So, Player A drops 5 chips into the pot, right? But then Player B decides to get in on the action too, putting down 3 of their own. To top it all off, you’ve got this one spectator hovering nearby who decides to throw 6 chips onto Player A's hand—just like that.
Player B tosses down 6 chips, and then you’ve got two spectators jumping in on him, each dropping 3 chips onto the table.
Notice how the total amount on the table is way higher than what the Banker put up, even though no single bet actually exceeds Player B's 6 chips.
Once the money's settled, the Dealer hands out 2 cards to everyone.
Looking at the layout here, the Banker's sitting on a final sum of 5 with his 2 cards, Player A has 4 points, and Player B is "Bak." Since he won, the Banker has to pay out all the bets against him, while the Banker and Player A just keep the game rolling.
The Banker grabs another card—it's an Eight—which brings his total to 23, or a final score of 3 points in this game. Player A didn't draw another card, and because of that, he ends up with a higher score than the Banker, so the Banker pays him out too.
In this specific scenario, the Banker would be coughing up a total of 26 chips.
All the cards used in that round get tossed aside, and the next round starts immediately with the remaining deck. In our case, since the Banker lost, he’s putting up new chips—and keep in mind, that initial 6-chip bet can only go up from here, never down.
When the Banker wins, all those opponent bets go straight into the Bank, and the Banker isn't allowed to touch them. Since the entire contents of the Bank act as the limit this time around, the next round can be played with a massive increase in the stakes. If the Banker had won the last round, those 26 chips would have hit the Bank, bringing the total to 32—which is the maximum any individual bet could reach.
Usually, you’re required to run 5 rounds in a row, and if there are enough cards left in the deck, the Banker can decide to squeeze in one or two extra rounds if he feels like it. After that, the Banker sweeps all the remaining chips from the Bank, and the player to his immediate right takes over the seat, acting as the dealer for the next 5 rounds, or more if things keep going.
Every time the Banker hits a win, the stakes for the next round skyrocket astronomically, which is exactly why Baccarat is labeled such a high-stakes, incredibly dangerous gambling game.
A Anonymous Veteran
3.6K messages
joined May 2005
#17 ·
Come on, hit us with more reading material—we're bored out of our minds over here!

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