My first PC build!

Alexander Moore67 said:The price for the Intel Core i5-9600K was sitting around $567 when it first hit the shelves here, and it never actually dropped below $500. Now that it's hovering above $600, there's no way we'll ever see a price cut like the one on the Intel Core i5-12600K dropping from 2900 down to 2000.

The 3600 sat at about $500 for a long time, and briefly went under 1500.
The 5600X isn't dropping from 2900 to 2000. Instead, they'll just release the 5600 for probably $229, which is $29—or roughly $83 more (with tax)—than what the R5 3600 cost.
So, like you said, the 3600 was around 1700 at launch, and the 5600 will be around $667. Maybe not on day one, but since the 5600 with a $300 MSRP is currently 2900, hitting 2000-2100 is realistic for the 5600.
Doesn't matter to the OP though. They aren't buying a 5000 series processor right this second anyway.

Sam Diaz2 said:I don't really see it that way. If you're dropping $100+ on a chip from 2017 and a B450 board, there's no guarantee that some future 6th gen Ryzen will even stick to the AM4 platform. Plus, who knows if AMD will even bother innovating now that they've taken the lead? They might just sit there milking their 5th gen by releasing X and XT versions or whatever other junk they come up with, which means those Intel 12th Gen prices might stay high for a while. And once they finally drop in two or three years, how much will a 5 or 6-year-old processor even be worth?

On the flip side, with LGA1200 and Intel's 11th gen trying to hold its own—either through raw power or price—you'd at least have the option to pick up a faster chip or jump to an Intel Core i7-10700 when things get cheaper. An i3 is usually easier to offload too, since it stays relevant longer.

Just to be clear, this is just my take. I'm not trying to act like I've outsmarted anyone 👍 . I'm just looking at it from my own experience of picking a CPU, back when I wasn't even looking at Intel. I ended up spending some time on: https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/ sort by Best value for money

I knew from the jump that if I went with AMD, I'd want a B550 board (for the reasons I mentioned), or LGA1200 if I went Intel. When I compared the prices, the form factors, and the features—having Wi-Fi was a non-negotiable for me—I ultimately went with Intel because of the cost.

Personally, I picked up the 10100F for $203 during Black Friday. I'm not saying it's the smartest move ever made, but it felt like a good deal. Honestly, if I were going to buy an NVIDIA RTX 3060 for $1467, I'd make sure the motherboard, CPU, and cooling all actually made sense in terms of quality and looks. I wouldn't pair a card like that with an i3 or an R3.

1) Fine, you snagged a Core i5 10400F for Black Friday. Like I said, the value is great.
2) The Ryzen 5600 will probably launch around $667, maybe less later. Right now, the only Intel chips even remotely competing with the 5600X are the i7s, and their prices aren't going down anytime soon.
3) AMD's 6000 series won't be on AM4, which makes the 5000 series fantastic. You're paying $300 for a legitimate 6-core processor. But again, a Core i5 10400F isn't bad; it just has a terrible upgrade path and you overpay for the motherboard.

4) "Checked Userbenchmark" — 🤣🤣
UserBenchmark is a disaster. It's the antichrist of hardware sites and is banned on half the forums out there.

wiredotter14 said:UserBenchmark is an absolute disaster—it’s basically the antichrist of hardware sites and honestly should be banned from pretty much every tech forum out there.

Exactly. They’re so blatantly biased toward Intel that you shouldn't even look at them if you want a real CPU comparison.

Based on all the feedback I’ve received, I decided to do a little digging myself.
I'd love to hear what you guys think about this!

https://files.fm/u/gy6j49gy3

boldharbor7 said:Based on all the feedback I’ve received, I decided to do a little digging myself.
I'd love to hear what you guys think about this!

https://files.fm/u/gy6j49gy3

Don't even think about grabbing a low-end power supply; 650W $93 is a stretch, but honestly, just avoid the cheap junk. It'd be better to grab a higher-quality motherboard for the Ryzen 5 3600, though if you aren't planning on overclocking, the basic one works fine.

Alexander Moore67 said:Don't even think about grabbing a low-end power supply; 650W $93 is a stretch, but honestly, just avoid the cheap junk. It'd be better to grab a higher-quality motherboard for the Ryzen 5 3600, though if you aren't planning on overclocking, the basic one works fine.

So, should I just go with the same wattage from a different brand?
Any suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/corsair-psu/
Your build won't pull more than 550W at peak load; you're looking at about 340W max.

Alexander Moore67 said:https://www.amazon.com/corsair-psu/
Your build won't pull more than 550W at peak load; you're looking at about 340W max.

I've got a TX650M; solid unit. A high-quality 550W is plenty.
Personally, I’d grab the 3060Ti. It’s a tier above the 5700XT. On paper, you're looking at an R5 3600 vs a Core i5 10400F, probably because of motherboard price gaps. If forced to choose between those two CPUs, I'm going with the 3600.
Just a heads-up: watch out for shops like those overseas retailers that ship from abroad. They can be cheap, sure, but customer service and returns can be a total nightmare.

You could also look at this one:
It isn't modular like the one pictured and availability is iffy, but it's a Seasonic Bronze with a 5-year warranty. For the price, it's a decent deal.
https://www.newegg.com/p/seasonic-power-supply...61540/product/

P.S.

Looking at it now—you're picking the R5 3600 for $667? Just because of credit card fees? $667 is way too much for that chip.

Seasonic Bronze$33 difference isn't enough to make it a smart choice if you can grab the TXM instead

wiredotter14 said:I've got a TX650M; solid unit. A high-quality 550W is plenty.
Personally, I’d grab the 3060Ti. It’s a tier above the 5700XT. On paper, you're looking at an R5 3600 vs a Core i5 10400F, probably because of motherboard price gaps. If forced to choose between those two CPUs, I'm going with the 3600.
Just a heads-up: watch out for shops like those overseas retailers that ship from abroad. They can be cheap, sure, but customer service and returns can be a total nightmare.

You could also look at this one:
It isn't modular like the one pictured and availability is iffy, but it's a Seasonic Bronze with a 5-year warranty. For the price, it's a decent deal.
https://www.newegg.com/p/seasonic-power-supply...61540/product/

P.S.

Looking at it now—you're picking the R5 3600 for $667? Just because of credit card fees? $667 is way too much for that chip.

It's not about the card payment; it's just the only one they actually have in stock, according to PCPartPicker. I'm planning to pay cash, which will obviously be much cheaper. If I could find it for around $120-$130, I’d probably grab both the R5 3600 and the 3060Ti.

Alexander Moore67 said:Seasonic Bronze$33 difference isn't enough to make it a smart choice if you can grab the TXM instead

$50 If you're cutting it close on the budget, there are a few things that actually matter. Don't get distracted by the shiny stuff. Focus on what keeps the system running.

boldharbor7 said:It's not about the card payment; it's just the only one they actually have in stock, according to PCPartPicker. I'm planning to pay cash, which will obviously be much cheaper. If I could find it for around $120-$130, I’d probably grab both the R5 3600 and the 3060Ti.

What's missing from Amazon?
Looking at this Ryzen 5 3600 deal. It’s sitting there on the shelf. Just another chip. Another way to spend money if you're looking to build something mid-range without breaking the bank too badly. Not much to say about it, really. It does what it says on the box. If you need an upgrade for an older AM4 setup, maybe it makes sense. Otherwise? Just another piece of silicon.
+[Links] You get a much better cooler than what comes with the 3600X.
Wait, what? You're just saying "or"? Not much to go on there. Give me some actual context if you want an answer.
AMD just dropped the Ryzen 5 3600. It’s out. If you’re looking at upgrading, check the specs. It’s standard stuff. Typical mid-range release. Just another day in the hardware cycle.

I 1850 i $667 That’s way too much for 3600. I'm sticking with my choice—the Core i5 10400F. $433...or maybe the 1600AF. $300).
If you actually pull the trigger on the 3600, definitely check if the 3600X is sitting there at the same price. They’re basically twins. The only real difference is that the 3600X comes with a slightly better stock cooler, which gives you those marginally higher clock speeds and performance bumps.

boldharbor7, honestly, paying that much for an R5 3600 just doesn't make sense...
Plus, that AsRock Challenger is just a basic, entry-level cooler; it’s definitely not cutting it for a 5700XT. Look, my advice? Stick with Intel. You aren't losing any gaming performance, and you'll walk away with extra cash in your pocket for an RTX 3060Ti. Just don't get ripped off—keep an eye on the Links for something around $3,900-$1333

It's a strange market right now, but Intel and Nvidia are actually the more budget-friendly and practical moves. 😁

$50 For someone picking up a 3060 Ti while trying to stick to a tight budget🤦

Kimberly Gomez34 said:boldharbor7, honestly, paying that much for an R5 3600 just doesn't make sense...
Plus, that AsRock Challenger is just a basic, entry-level cooler; it’s definitely not cutting it for a 5700XT. Look, my advice? Stick with Intel. You aren't losing any gaming performance, and you'll walk away with extra cash in your pocket for an RTX 3060Ti. Just don't get ripped off—keep an eye on the Links for something around $3,900-$1333

It's a strange market right now, but Intel and Nvidia are actually the more budget-friendly and practical moves. 😁

That’s the plan! Thanks, everyone! 👍

Don't bother buying anything from Best Buy if you actually care about your wallet.
Honestly, dealing with their returns can be a total nightmare too. I had this whole ordeal with a monitor where I just wanted to test it out at home and return it, but they turned me down claiming there were "scratches" on it. Even their own technician basically admitted I was right—that what they were calling "scratches" was just unavoidable given how crappy the packaging was. It wasn't even a real scratch; it was more like this weird, faint line that only shows up if you look at the screen from certain angles...
Anyway, the guy could see the packaging was ridiculously tight—we both struggled just to get the thing out of the box—but he basically told me that the higher-ups make the final call. And since my reason for returning it wasn't "damage," but just that I didn't like the way the image looked...
Well, I wasn't even asking for a full refund; I just wanted an even exchange or to pay the difference for a better model. They couldn't have cared less.

Jacob Cooper5 said:Don't bother buying anything from Best Buy if you actually care about your wallet.
Honestly, dealing with their returns can be a total nightmare too. I had this whole ordeal with a monitor where I just wanted to test it out at home and return it, but they turned me down claiming there were "scratches" on it. Even their own technician basically admitted I was right—that what they were calling "scratches" was just unavoidable given how crappy the packaging was. It wasn't even a real scratch; it was more like this weird, faint line that only shows up if you look at the screen from certain angles...
Anyway, the guy could see the packaging was ridiculously tight—we both struggled just to get the thing out of the box—but he basically told me that the higher-ups make the final call. And since my reason for returning it wasn't "damage," but just that I didn't like the way the image looked...
Well, I wasn't even asking for a full refund; I just wanted an even exchange or to pay the difference for a better model. They couldn't have cared less.

If you order online, you can return it within 14 days regardless of why. That's huge, especially for monitors. There’s zero point in buying directly from a physical store unless there's some exclusive deal. Best Buy has decent prices on GPUs, and right now, they're pretty much the only ones with any stock available.

wiredotter14 said:If you order online, you can return it within 14 days regardless of why. That's huge, especially for monitors. There’s zero point in buying directly from a physical store unless there's some exclusive deal. Best Buy has decent prices on GPUs, and right now, they're pretty much the only ones with any stock available.

Look, I know the rule about online shopping, but even then, companies find ways to dodge returns if they feel like it. In my experience, it was just one of those unfair loopholes they could have easily used against an online order too... at least, that's how it felt. They can always play dumb and make things difficult if that's what they're aiming for.
As for "good prices" on graphics cards? I don't know about that. Every time I check their site, it seems like the only way to get close to a decent price is through a wire transfer or cash—and even then, it's still at least 10% higher than the competition.
When you're talking about high-ticket items worth thousands of dollars, being a few hundred bucks more expensive than everyone else just because you're paying cash isn't exactly a bargain...

Jacob Cooper5 said:Look, I know the rule about online shopping, but even then, companies find ways to dodge returns if they feel like it. In my experience, it was just one of those unfair loopholes they could have easily used against an online order too... at least, that's how it felt. They can always play dumb and make things difficult if that's what they're aiming for.
As for "good prices" on graphics cards? I don't know about that. Every time I check their site, it seems like the only way to get close to a decent price is through a wire transfer or cash—and even then, it's still at least 10% higher than the competition.
When you're talking about high-ticket items worth thousands of dollars, being a few hundred bucks more expensive than everyone else just because you're paying cash isn't exactly a bargain...

1) Best Buy has the same prices for cash or card; that's just how they operate. Right now, they're the only ones with a 3060Ti for $1333 (though it's out of stock, so keep an eye on it). Generally, they're pricier than the other guys since they don't offer cash discounts.

2) You won't have any issues with returns when you exercise your right to cancel a contract and return an item in its original packaging. You aren't filing a warranty claim; you're just exercising a cancellation right, which requires notifying them via email or a web form. Check out the details here regarding the RIGHT TO CANCEL A CONTRACT CONCLUDED OUTSIDE BUSINESS PREMISES OR DISTANCE CONTRACTING
https://www.bestbuy.com/help/returns

This doesn't apply to digital goods, obviously, but it covers all hardware regardless of why you want to send it back—whether the monitor is dead or you just hate the color of the plastic.

Card:

https://www.bestbuy.com/graphics-cards
https://www.bestbuy.com/graphics-cards

implosive

The market fluctuates constantly. There are stretches where Micro Center becomes the absolute go-to for building the most budget-friendly rigs. Right now, they’re actually among the top contenders, plus they’re one of the few places consistently stocking the latest GPUs at somewhat reasonable prices. For instance, earlier this morning, they had two different versions of the GTX 1650 available, but they were snapped up by the end of the day.

My advice? If you're hunting for those new GPUs, just refresh their website a few times a day. You don't need to be quite as lightning-fast as the folks out there dealing with automated bots buying everything instantly, but you definitely need to be ready to pull the trigger within a couple of hours during the day.