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Mortgage loans and life insurance requirements

Started by Brandon Castillo6 · · 👁 9 views · 79 replies

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George Barrett35 George Barrett35 Active Member
98 messages
joined Aug 2009
#61 ·
Aha, life insurance is a completely different animal altogether.

A 1:1.10 mortgage ratio basically means the appraised market value of the property you're putting up as collateral needs to hit at least 110% of the loan amount—so, in your case, we’re looking at $33,000. If the valuation falls short of that mark, though it obviously can't be less than the loan itself, the bank is going to demand a co-signer, an extra deposit, or a life insurance policy to bridge the gap.

Now, property insurance is what covers you against fire and those other standard risks, and the coverage amount—which dictates your annual premium—is tied directly to the estimated replacement cost of the building.
Melissa Ortiz8 Melissa Ortiz8 Member
12 messages
joined Jul 2013
#62 ·
George Barrett35 said:Aha, life insurance is a completely different animal altogether.

A 1:1.10 mortgage ratio basically means the appraised market value of the property you're putting up as collateral needs to hit at least 110% of the loan amount—so, in your case, we’re looking at $33,000. If the valuation falls short of that mark, though it obviously can't be less than the loan itself, the bank is going to demand a co-signer, an extra deposit, or a life insurance policy to bridge the gap.

Now, property insurance is what covers you against fire and those other standard risks, and the coverage amount—which dictates your annual premium—is tied directly to the estimated replacement cost of the building.

Got it, thanks. That clears things up.
So, using Bank of America as an example, the requirements would look like:
1. A 1.10 LTV mortgage
2. An insurance policy—maybe around $200 a year?

I also have a general question about loans through the High School program:
When it mentions a savings amount of 5% of the agreed housing savings total...
Does that mean:
a) I pay 5% ($1,500) upfront, interest accrues on it, and then after five years it chips away at my principal?
b) I pay 5% upfront, plus I have to keep paying 5% of the annuity amount every month for five years, and then at the end, it all hits the principal at once?
c) This 5% at the start isn't actually linked to the housing savings portion used for interim financing, and I should be paying some other percentage instead?
George Barrett35 George Barrett35 Active Member
98 messages
joined Aug 2009
#63 ·
Melissa Ortiz8 said:Got it, thanks. That clears things up.
So, using Bank of America as an example, the requirements would look like:
1. A 1.10 LTV mortgage
2. An insurance policy—maybe around $200 a year?

I also have a general question about loans through the High School program:
When it mentions a savings amount of 5% of the agreed housing savings total...
Does that mean:
a) I pay 5% ($1,500) upfront, interest accrues on it, and then after five years it chips away at my principal?
b) I pay 5% upfront, plus I have to keep paying 5% of the annuity amount every month for five years, and then at the end, it all hits the principal at once?
c) This 5% at the start isn't actually linked to the housing savings portion used for interim financing, and I should be paying some other percentage instead?

Exactly.
Melissa Ortiz8 said:Got it, thanks. That clears things up.
So, using Bank of America as an example, the requirements would look like:
1. A 1.10 LTV mortgage
2. An insurance policy—maybe around $200 a year?

I also have a general question about loans through the High School program:
When it mentions a savings amount of 5% of the agreed housing savings total...
Does that mean:
a) I pay 5% ($1,500) upfront, interest accrues on it, and then after five years it chips away at my principal?
b) I pay 5% upfront, plus I have to keep paying 5% of the annuity amount every month for five years, and then at the end, it all hits the principal at once?
c) This 5% at the start isn't actually linked to the housing savings portion used for interim financing, and I should be paying some other percentage instead?

a
amberskipper702 amberskipper702 Newcomer
5 messages
joined Aug 2014
#64 ·
Back in 2007—when I was stuck signing for that mortgage—I was forced into taking out two separate insurance policies just to get the deal done.

First thing you gotta look at is the life insurance policy... specifically those single-premium deals.

Then there’s the second one—the accident and fire insurance. I pay for that on an annual basis.

So, here’s what I’m actually wondering about...

So, what happens to my first insurance policy if I decide to pay off my loan early one day?
Is she just gonna automatically knock that off my principal?

I get the whole second insurance policy thing... but if nothing actually happens to the apartment—well, the wolf eats the donkey. It’s all their money anyway.
Alexander Roberts Alexander Roberts Newcomer
6 messages
joined May 2015
#65 ·
The wolf swallowed the donkey and that first shelf—likely because it posed a risk. And no, they aren't going to reduce your principal balance.
amberskipper702 amberskipper702 Newcomer
5 messages
joined Aug 2014
#66 ·
I don't think so... that second option is way too risky...

Where can I even check that?

Honestly, me and my online banking app are basically at war right now...😁
Steven Reed Steven Reed Regular
354 messages
joined Dec 2014
#67 ·
amberskipper702 said:I don't think so... that second option is way too risky...

Where can I even check that?

Honestly, me and my online banking app are basically at war right now...😁

Give JPMorgan Chase a call (assuming those are their policies). That first option—the single premium one—actually carries some cash value. Once your loan principal drops to a certain point, you could theoretically use that policy's value to settle the debt entirely.
The other one? That’s pure risk coverage (like standard fire insurance)—if nothing burns down during the term, you walk away with zero.
amberskipper702 amberskipper702 Newcomer
5 messages
joined Aug 2014
#68 ·
Steven Reed said:Give JPMorgan Chase a call (assuming those are their policies). That first option—the single premium one—actually carries some cash value. Once your loan principal drops to a certain point, you could theoretically use that policy's value to settle the debt entirely.
The other one? That’s pure risk coverage (like standard fire insurance)—if nothing burns down during the term, you walk away with zero.

Uh... thanks.🙂

Yeah, the policies are through JPMorgan Chase...

I totally get how the second one works (accidents, fire, whatever)...

it was just that first one that had me tripping out...

So, what actually happens if I pay off the mortgage early?
Steven Reed Steven Reed Regular
354 messages
joined Dec 2014
#69 ·
amberskipper702 said:Uh... thanks.🙂

Yeah, the policies are through JPMorgan Chase...

I totally get how the second one works (accidents, fire, whatever)...

it was just that first one that had me tripping out...

So, what actually happens if I pay off the mortgage early?

You have options—you can let it sit and stay covered until the term ends, then collect the payout (the death benefit plus whatever growth accrued), or you can use it to clear the debt entirely. Alternatively, you could just cancel it once the loan is dead and take the cash.
Just a heads-up: if you terminate the policy before the expiration date, you aren't getting the full face value—you're looking at the surrender value at that specific moment (check the capitalization table that should have come with your paperwork)
amberskipper702 amberskipper702 Newcomer
5 messages
joined Aug 2014
#70 ·
Yeah, I get it now... thanks a ton.🙂

Can I just ask JPMorgan Chase for this table if I can't dig it up in my own paperwork?
Steven Reed Steven Reed Regular
354 messages
joined Dec 2014
#71 ·
amberskipper702 said:Yeah, I get it now... thanks a ton.🙂

Can I just ask JPMorgan Chase for this table if I can't dig it up in my own paperwork?

You certainly 😉can.
amberskipper702 amberskipper702 Newcomer
5 messages
joined Aug 2014
#72 ·
thanks 😘
Alexander Roberts Alexander Roberts Newcomer
6 messages
joined May 2015
#73 ·
You should check with Allianz regarding this life insurance policy—it’s vital. If you paid the entire premium upfront, I suspect it's strictly a term life policy—which means there is absolutely no cash value involved—since those are designed solely for death benefits rather than any savings component. While you could potentially use a whole life policy to cover a loan, those carry much higher premiums—they're typically paid annually rather than in one lump sum.
hiddensailor10 hiddensailor10 Newcomer
1 message
joined Oct 2014
#74 ·
I mean, what about car insurance, or supplemental health coverage—and honestly, even basic health insurance at the end of the day? Aren't those just standard insurance risks too? It feels like a bit of a "you can't win" situation, if you know what I mean, because once you pay that premium, that money is just gone, and you’re just paying it all over again next year.

It would be pretty ridiculous, actually, if someone actually paid something like $100, and then an insurance company promised to cut them a check for maybe $200,000 if their house burned down or something, but then, if nothing ever happens... they had to give that original $100 back. hahahahahaha
Gerald Hill7 Gerald Hill7 Member
41 messages
joined May 2014
#75 ·
Well, let's not overlook the fact that there are also life insurance policies designed specifically for savings—the kind where you essentially get back what you've put in over time...
Alexander Roberts Alexander Roberts Newcomer
6 messages
joined May 2015
#76 ·
Gerald Hill7 said:Well, let's not overlook the fact that there are also life insurance policies designed specifically for savings—the kind where you essentially get back what you've put in over time...

If your goal is to save money, then stick to a high-yield savings account or a CD. Life insurance—as the name itself implies—is intended for protection, not growth.
jadeotter642 jadeotter642 Newcomer
2 messages
joined Oct 2014
#77 ·
Hey, so back when I took out my mortgage with Citigroup 2007, I had to pay a one-time fee for life insurance, plus I pay annually for accident and basic risk coverage. The policies are tied directly to the bank.
A month ago, I ended up with an injury—ruptured Achilles tendon—so I’m looking at at least 4 months of sick leave.
Do I actually have any right to claim anything from this accident policy? I'm not quite sure how the "tied to the bank" part works. Does the bank just take the payout to cover my mortgage payments instead?
Thanks for the help! Cheers.
urbangardener urbangardener Member
29 messages
joined Dec 2010
#78 ·
My blood pressure is through the roof right now because I’ve been chasing this mortgage for three whole months, and my loan officer spent the entire time walking me through all the extra requirements like the home mortgage itself, an annual life insurance policy for about $43, and yearly homeowners coverage for fire and stuff totaling roughly $53, but then after three months of grinding through all this paperwork, on the very last day and literally in the final hour, she drops this bomb on me that I also need to pick up a life insurance policy for twenty-five years to match the loan term at $47 a month.

It’s not even a massive amount of money, but I just really don't want to pay it since it feels totally pointless to me...
Alexander Roberts Alexander Roberts Newcomer
6 messages
joined May 2015
#79 ·
When I went through the process of buying out my mixed life insurance policy—which was tied directly to my mortgage and pledged to JPMorgan Chase—I managed to switch to a provider that costs about ten times less per year. Honestly, you should double-check everything with the bank representative to ensure they aren't misinformed—especially when dealing with an institution like JPMorgan Chase.
urbangardener urbangardener Member
29 messages
joined Dec 2010
#80 ·
It’s about JPMorgan Chase.

I’m dropping maybe $25 a year on some accident life insurance, and I’ve got my home insurance covering fire and all that other random crap for about $20 a year. That part makes sense to me, honestly, because if things ever go south, at least I know they have somewhere to pull the funds from...

On top of that, I paid roughly $1333 for unemployment coverage and whatever else was bundled in there, including death benefits I think. If I remember correctly, it was supposed to cover a certain amount of my mortgage payments if I got laid off due to downsizing, plus some interest and stuff like that...

And then, once everything was finalized—boom, here comes a 25-year life insurance policy with an $47 monthly payment.
Every single dollar counts right now, so it feels pretty stupid to be $47 paying every month for life insurance that lasts 25 years, it just doesn't feel right to me...

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