Budget PC build under $750?

Hi there!

I'm looking to pick up a desktop and monitor setup—I’m a total novice here, so I could really use some advice from you all.

The computer is primarily for work—lots of translating in Word and using subtitle editing software. Basically, plenty of streaming movies and series and tons of web browsing. Occasionally, an architect will use it to run AutoCAD. Having genuine Windows (7 or 8) is a must. I don't play games at all.

I was considering an All-in-one because space is tight—I work from home and my apartment is small, so my desk isn't huge either—but it's not a dealbreaker. Honestly, I’d rather have a decent, proper machine, though it would be nice if the case wasn't massive. Also, it needs to be quiet—I need to be able to translate by ear without constant fan noise.

I don't need speakers. I'll be paying cash, so financing or credit cards aren't a factor, but if I buy a custom build, I absolutely require them to assemble it in-store and install Windows—because, frankly, I'm hopeless with tech.

And they need to offer a solid warranty, obviously. Besides the size issue, the main reason I even looked at an All-in-one was the possibility of a 5-year warranty.

Thanks!

1 x CORSAIR 430W, CX430M, Modular PC, EPS12V v2.3
1 x Intel Core i3-4170 (3.70GHz,512KB,3MB,54 W,1150) Box
1 x AOC i2276VW, 21.5" IPS 16:9, 1920x1080, 250 cd/m2, 50,000,000:1
1 x Microsoft Windows 10 Home
1 x Seagate 1TB Desktop SSHD, SATA III, 7200 rpm, 8GB SSD
1 x Fractal Design Core 1100 Black, 2 x 5.25", 2 x 3.5" internal bays
1 x Asrock H81M-HDS, s1150, Intel H81, M-ATX, Dual Channel
1 x 8GB (1x8GB) Kingston HyperX Fury DDR3, 1600MHz, CL10
1 x LG GH24NS DVD Writer, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R, 8x DL, 40x CD-R

$1707 ADM(includes free assembly and shipping)

I'm not sure how they handle the Windows installation. I didn't want to go with a standard HDD since this one is faster, though maybe the price would drop slightly $67 if that's necessary.

Case Dimensions (WxHxD): 175 x 358 x 410 mm

Thanks a ton!

The only thing is, I'll probably have to swap out my Windows setup for 8.1—just because of some specific work software I rely on.

Also, quick question regarding monitors.

Is everyone using these stretched-out screens now? Like, is there actually a reason people recommend them? Personally, I find working on a more square-shaped monitor much easier on the eyes... would I look like an idiot if I insisted on sticking with one?😁

That’s been the industry standard for monitors for about eight years now. Plus, if you’re planning on binge-watching movies or series, getting a screen with a 4:3 aspect ratio would be a total mistake—the image would look tiny, or if you tried to stretch it to fit, you’d end up cutting off huge chunks of the action on the sides. You also have to consider that this is an IPS panel: you get much better color reproduction and you won't deal with that annoying washout when you're viewing the screen from an angle.

So, which program are you using that works on 8.1 but breaks on 10?

I guess all monitors are widescreen nowadays. It used to bug me too, but once you get used to it, there's no going back. It’ll probably be a huge help for you when you're working in AutoCAD or doing any subtitling—you can actually fit way more on the screen.

Plus, if you think about it, it just feels more natural. Human vision is wider anyway, not shaped like a square.😁

@Timothy Kim60/">@@Timothy Kim60 -is this signature okay for you?😁

@fadedorca66/">@@fadedorca66 -that's software from a firm I work with. I checked with them—apparently, it can only handle 7 or 8 at most.

thanks! So, stretched it is, I guess.

You might be able to find some boxy ones here and there, like this:

But honestly, they're way overpriced for such a laughable resolution. They're too small, have TN panels, and all that. Plus, like I mentioned before, they just aren't the right choice for watching movies.

You've convinced me.

I'm giving up on the square builds—I'm siding with progress now, I guess—so my eyes can finally see things the way they were meant to be seen.

Susan Chavez said:you guys won me over.

I'm ditching the old square monitors. Moving toward widescreen. Let my eyes see things the way they're meant to be seen.

1 x AOC i2276VW, 21.5", IPS 16:9, 1920x1080, 250 cd/m2, 50,000,000:1
1 x ASUS H81M-D, 1150, Intel H81, DDR3, 2 slots 1600MHz
1 x Intel Core i3-4160 Processor (3.60GHz, 512KB, 3MB, 54 W, 1150) Box
1 x DDR3 8GB (1x8GB) Kingston, HyperX Fury, 1866MHz, CL10
1 x FORTRON 400W Power Supply, HEXA plus 400, 12cm fan
1 x Zalman T5 mini tower case. 170(W) x 427(H) x 348(D)mm.
1 x LG GH24NS DVD burner, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R, 8x DL, 40x CD-R
1 x Seagate 1TB HDD, Serial ATA III, 7200 rpm, DESKTOP SSHD, 8GB SSD
1 x Microsoft Windows 8.1, 64bit, English 1pk, DSP, OEI DVD, WN7-00614
$1630
admin.com

Thanks!

But seriously—how am I supposed to choose?

The only thing I actually get here is the price difference.

I noticed some of the components are different—is this basically the "same" thing performance-wise, just maybe a bit easier on my wallet?

Sorry if these questions seem stupid—I just don't know any better.

Susan Chavez said:thanks!

But how am I supposed to decide now?

The only thing I really get here is the price difference.

I see some components are different. Is it basically the "same" thing performance-wise, just a better deal for my wallet?

Sorry if these are stupid questions, but I don't know any better.

There are just a few minor differences. In the crimsonstag84 build, you get a Modular PC (which is way more practical) and a slightly better motherboard. That’s why it costs a bit more. If you don't mind being up an extra $15 or so, that option is definitely the better way to go.

It’s got a non-modular power supply, which means more cable clutter inside, and the case fans are a bit louder. Plus, it's a bit bulkier overall, though maybe a little shorter in depth.

But if you stick with the Intel Core i3-4170, I guess bumping up the clock speed for $4.75 might be worth it.

Ultimately, if you really want to stick strictly to your budget, I'd probably just swap out the case in my setup for that Zalman T5—assuming you don't have height restrictions in your apartment (you'll need about half a meter of clearance). 😛

Awesome, thanks everyone!

I think I'll just stick with that first option. I've been planning to pull the trigger on a brand-new rig for a while now—so an extra 100$67 really doesn't make much of a difference to me.

Also, just in case anyone else needs to know—I reached out to the admin and found out they actually offer free Windows installation if you buy all your components from them.

Susan Chavez said:awesome, thanks everyone!

I think I'll just stick with that first option. I've been planning on buying a new rig for a while now, so an extra $100 $67 isn't really a dealbreaker for me.

By the way, in case anyone else needs the heads-up—I reached out to the admin and found out they'll even do a free installation of Microsoft Windows 10 Home if you buy all your components from them.

Well, obviously, if you buy the OS from them... 😛>

Fine, one more—hopefully the last question!

What kind of setup would I need if I decided to grab an SSD?

Would that drive the price up too much? Maybe I could cut something from that first configuration—like dropping that 1 terabyte down to 500 gigs—just to keep the total cost roughly in the same ballpark?

Susan Chavez said:And yeah, one more thing—hopefully the last one!

What kind of setup should I look at if I want to add an SSD?

Will that blow the budget? Can I swap something out from that first build to balance it—like dropping that 1TB drive down to 500GB just to keep the price roughly the same?

An SSD will run you about 80 bucks if you aren't picking the absolute bottom-of-the-barrel cheap stuff.

You can take it. This is it. Other retailers carry the G1820 model as well. $87) ili This is what I have. What’s just a tiny bit more powerful than a Celeron and offers a slightly better integrated GPU? I'm looking for an alternative to the Intel Core i3-4170. $321...an SSD. Take this one, for example. Is it better to go with one of the cheaper options, or...? Hey. It’s newer, it’s faster, and you get a 5-year warranty—plus, that's where all your Windows OS and software will live.

The i3 is significantly more powerful than either a Celeron or a Pentium. If you include an SSD, it doesn't really push the budget too far, and honestly, it's just a good idea to have one.

1 x Intel Core i3-4170 Processor (3.70GHz,512KB,3MB,54 W,1150) Box
1 x Asrock H81M-HDS, s1150, Intel H81, M-ATX, Dual Channel 2xDDR3
1 x AOC i2276VW, 21.5", IPS 16:9, 1920x1080, 250 cd/m2, 50,000,000:1
1 x 8GB DDR3 (1x8GB) Corsair, 1600MHz, CL11, Value, CMV8GX3M1A160C11
1 x TOSHIBA 1TB, 7200rpm, SATA 6 Gb/s, 32MB, DT01ACA100
1 x 120GB Kingston HyperX Fury SSD, 2.5", SATA 3 6G
1 x FORTRON 400W Power Supply, HEXA plus 400, 12cm fan
1 x Microsoft Windows 8.1, 64-bit, American 1pk, DSP, OEI DVD, WN7-00622
1 x LG GH24NS DVD Writer, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R, 8x DL, 40x CD-R
1 x Zalman T5 mini tower case. 170(W) x 427(H) x 348(D)mm.

$1706
adm.us

I think I'll just shell out a few more bucks—it makes sense—to take that first build and just swap the case and toss in an SSD.

So, here’s the plan:

1 x Zalman T5 mini tower case. 170(W) x 427(H) x 348(D)mm.
1 x CORSAIR 430W Power Supply, CX430M, Modular PC, EPS12V v2.3
1 x LG GH24NS DVD burner, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R ,8x DL , 40x CD-R
1 x Intel Core i3-4170 (3.70GHz,512KB,3MB,54 W,1150) Box
1 x AOC i2276VW, 21.5" IPS 16:9, 1920x1080, 250 cd/m2, 50,000,000:1
1 x Seagate 1TB HDD, Serial ATA III, 7200 rpm, DESKTOP SSHD,8GB SSD
1 x Asrock H81M-HDS, s1150, Intel H81, M-ATX, Dual Channel 2xDDR3
1 x 8GB DDR3 (1x8GB) Kingston, HyperX Fury, 1600MHz, CL10
1 x Microsoft Windows 10 Home, 64bit, English 1pk,DSP,OEI DVD,WN7-00614
1 x Kingston 120GB SSD HyperX Fury, 2.5", SATA 3 6G

Total: $1820

I'm assuming—unless I'm wrong—that they at Best Buy will handle installing Windows and everything else onto that SSD.

Is there anything else I should be looking out for, or am I good to go ahead and buy this?
I recall reading in some old thread—if I remember correctly—that you aren't supposed to defragment an SSD... plus there was something about indexing or whatever, though I have no clue what that actually means.

Can I just use the computer like I did before? You know, nothing crazy—just turning it on, off, deleting files I don't need, and occasionally blowing the cat hair and dust out of it?

Just grab a basic hard drive, like the cheapest 1TB model you can find—probably a General Electric one. There’s really no point in getting a Seagate Technology when you're already going with an SSD anyway.