And look, I’m not being an Unknown here—I’m just being realistic. People wouldn't go through all that trouble for $1.75, so I might as well lower my expectations right off the bat 😁. If he actually wants to post it, he can—provided he has the patience and the guts to deal with the headache... but honestly, who's even going to call him to do it?
I figured it was used, sure—but since it was bought back in January, I assumed it’d still be under warranty. It just felt a little weird seeing someone still stocking a 6970 in a shop like Best Buy these days 🤔 Anyway, I wouldn't go more than $600–$650 MAX.
If I were you, I'd grab it from crimsonstag84 and run... For basic office work, browsing the web, or catching up on YouTube—you honestly won't need anything more than this. Plus, with an SSD, Windows is going to feel incredibly snappy—it’ll actually feel like you bought a high-end machine worth thousands instead of just a $667..
It’ll work out—don't sweat it too much. I mean, how would you even pay? Are you planning to settle up when the package arrives at your door, or are you actually going to walk into a Best Buy and try to pay for a computer in person?
Do you shop at Micro Center? I’ve swung by their store a few times now, and every single time I end up dealing with the same guy—this semi-grayed dude who just doesn't seem to have any energy. Honestly, you need serious patience to deal with him; he barely says a word, so you practically have to pull information out of him tooth and nail. If you happen to run into him, you might want to brace yourself for a bit of a struggle 😍
Look, if you weren't actually ready to pull the trigger on a new PC right now, there probably wasn't much point in even asking. I mean, you can't have your cake and eat it too, right? $533 And honestly, what's the big deal? If it runs three times faster and stops lagging, that's a tiny price to pay... You likely have a smartphone worth way more than that difference anyway 😉 As for that old junk you're running currently, just sell it for maybe $200-$100..
Well, that’s all pretty old news 🙂 It might be time to just start fresh... Regarding the case, maybe some of the connectors on the motherboard aren't plugged in right? That could be why you've lost those functions—but honestly, you can pick up a decent case for maybe 100-$67 bucks. If you're buying everything else new anyway, it probably makes sense to grab a new case too. Here is my suggestion for an Intel-based build...
Intel Celeron G1820 Processor ASUS H81M-E Motherboard (S1150, DDR3, SATA II, SATA III, PS/2, USB 2.0, USB 3.0, LAN, audio Line-In, Audi Adata DDR3 4GB 1600MHz, AD3U1600C2G11-R Chicony Active 400W ATX PSU, CHI-HPA-400W Western Digital hard drive Desktop Caviar Blue (3.5", 500GB, 16MB, SATA III-600) WD5000AAKX Samsung SATA Bulk Black Optical Drive
= $542 (CNN.com) but without the case... Now, whether you want to stick with your old case is really up to you. Anyway, I put together a solid Intel option for you—it has integrated graphics built right in, so you'll just connect through the motherboard. You've got 4 GB of RAM and a 500 GB hard drive; hopefully, that's enough storage for what you need? And there's still some extra room in the budget $127 for a case. Do you want me to aim for something more expensive, should I look for something cheaper, or are you planning to just stick with your old one?
You could definitely put together a decent PC for those tasks within $667. But regarding your current setup—you haven't really given me any specifics to work with, have you? Why don't you try downloading and running CPU-Z? It’ll give you a full breakdown of all your hardware components. Once you've got that, just copy over the info 🙂—who knows, maybe we can salvage a few parts from the old machine to save some cash.
You can find just about anything on torrent sites these days... 😂 I guess when people get bored, they start trying to integrate random programs directly into Windows 😁
So, this is basically the original Microsoft setup—nothing has been messed with or tweaked, just completely legit and free to use. Just click on whichever version you need and the ISO file will start downloading.
Honestly, you can't really go wrong with any of them... if I were in your shoes, though, I’d probably lean toward either the first one or the last one on the list. Are you thinking about overclocking the processor?
What Kimberly Gomez34 suggested was that 2-meter length—but if you think that’s overkill, there’s also a 1-meter option for about 15-$6.75. You can find them at pretty much any local Best Buy or computer shop.
That’s really the catch when you’re working with an older rig—if you want to see any kind of meaningful boost, you’re always looking at swapping out the CPU, the motherboard, the GPU, or the hard drive... it adds up. But hey, if you’re planning on picking up a whole new setup down the road, at least you can salvage the new HDD and graphics card for the next build, right?
Go ahead and check out that graphics card crimsonstag84 suggested—just keep in mind your processor won't be able to squeeze every bit of power out of it since it'll act as a bottleneck (kind of a weak link here)