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Posts by Rachel Jones8

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Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Robert Rodriguez2 said:since you aren't planning on overclocking (pushing the processor speed past its Stock settings), just grab whichever cheap Thermaltake cooler I linked earlier.
I have no idea why prices at ADM are so high for you; this is what I'm seeing:

EDIT: figured it out, you picked a pricier case 😬

Yeah, it was the case. Not the RAM... though whatever. 😁
I'm looking through it now... trying to see the difference from $33. Until you edited it, anyway. 😁

EDIT 2: shipping to downtown is $13 per package, and you get two (one with the built PC, and one with the component packaging).

Yeah, yeah... interesting.
I think I'll just stick with ADM since they're closer if I need help later, plus they handle their own delivery. Those guys downtown didn't really leave much of an impression on me.

How does the warranty work? Does each part have its own warranty, or is it like buying a whole computer where there's just one sticker (that you can't touch) covering the entire setup?
(I sent an inquiry to ADM)

Can I add a card reader to the front of the PC?
Would that be this?
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
If I stick with my first choice, would any of these coolers actually work?
1.

And this is a CPU cooler, but there’s zero info on what socket it fits.

Edit: I cleared out the others since I realized they won't fit AM3+.
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Hmm, Robert Rodriguez2 says:
AMD has physical 4 cores which will definitely keep you going for a few years... plus the integrated graphics subsystem is stronger than Intel's
That comes out to about 720-$317 (depending on which cooler I pick)
If you're saying an i3 isn't a great choice, and Intel with 4 cores costs $463 more... even if you don't need an extra cooler, that's still 440-$223 more, which isn't nothing... especially when we're working with a tight budget.
🙂

crimsonstag84 said:Didn't you say you weren't buying anything right away?

Yeah, because I figured I'd have some time to decide what to get... and since I was planning on sticking with my old junk for a while, I thought I'd need extra time to move all my important files to an external drive and grab those adapters I'll need later... so I could slowly go through everything and move it from the old rig to the new one.
But since I've decided to actually get a new tower, and I've gotten so much help picking it out, I think I'll just speed things up now.
I mean, if I wait too long... these other parts might not fit anymore... they'll be different, or gone entirely, or I'll just run out of cash... so I'm not really looking to wait forever. I'd rather just get it done, order it, and call it a day.
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Jason Harris5 said:My buddy Jason appreciates the input. Personally, though, I’d never pick AMD for myself (unless we’re talking about Zacate). It's not because their stuff is bad, loud, or poor value—actually, for basic home use, you won't find better bang for your buck. My last AMD build was on Socket A, and man, that was a headache. I had two Durons modded into those hard-to-find Athlon MP chips on a Tyan workstation board with ECC memory, and it lasted right up until the capacitors on the board finally gave up the ghost.

Four cores are just a flashy gimmick. Sure, they look great on paper if you're into high clock speeds, overclocking, or undervolting, but let’s be real: that’s mostly for forum bragging rights and "kids." When you actually sit down and calculate what you spend on extra fans, a higher-end motherboard with better OC potential, and low-latency RAM... you realize for basically the same amount of cash, I could just grab a Core i5 with the stock cooler and skip all the headaches and tinkering. But hey, we were all fifteen once, wanting to run BF4 on Ultra. Back in my day, people were playing Doom on an SX 33; I scraped by on a dx4 133, then moved to a 166mmx, and eventually transitioned to Unreal.

Nowadays? I care way more about low power draw and silence than raw performance. I've still got an e5300 running with its stock cooler in a tiny case, while a 955BE is sitting in its plastic shroud. For browsing, I use my iPad. For work, I rotate through a Toshiba Satellite, a Dell Latitude D610, and a Lenovo ThinkPad that they almost tossed in the trash. I don't have anything in my house newer than six years old, and honestly, I don't miss having new gear. My next home upgrade will probably be a Mac mini.

If someone really wants to game, they should just buy a console. Honestly, I would too if I could. I just don't have three hundred bucks lying around for this: http://www.arcade-history.com/?n=bub...=detail&id=343

Besides, PlayStation isn't really my thing.

Sorry for the OFF topic chatter.

Nothing is truly "off-topic" in my little info corner.
So... should I go with Intel after all? I'm not blaming you for the dilemma you've put me in; I'm in no rush.
The suggestion was AMD for $222 and a cooler for $40. That brings us to $262, but if I opt for a beefier cooler... say, one meant for $78... then we're looking at $300 total.
If I go Intel and don't need an extra cooler based on what you said... I could probably grab an Intel chip in the $666 range. $300
Here were the Intel options:
Intel Celeron $97
Intel Celeron $77
Intel Celeron $77
Intel Pentium $136

For around $700, $300 I could probably snag an i3.
Now... do I actually need it? Is it better? Who knows.

Looking at what you wrote above, I'll just say this: I don't play games. I have Run ski Challenge, but I've only played it a few times and now it just lags. That's about it.
As for performance, I barely even know what that means. Everything on my current PC list is about nine years old. Anything would probably be faster and quieter. Plus, I can't even watch YouTube videos or listen to music properly most of the time because it keeps stuttering. Same goes for listening to the radio while I work.
An i5 looks like it costs $425... which would put the whole build around $1060. That's a bit over my budget of $3000, but if it makes sense to invest in a better processor, maybe it's worth considering. Or an i3... those aren't great, right?

What does it mean when it says "Integrated graphics no"?

Should I pick up an extra graphics card too?
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Robert Rodriguez2 said:Feel free to check out everything on their list.
As for ADM, I've dropped a ton of cash there over the years... they're pricier than Micro Center, though. One perk is that if you spend over $667, you get free shipping anywhere... plus free assembly and stability testing.

I thought Micro Center offered free shipping over a certain amount too. Looks like shipping is $13, but I wonder if the threshold is the same for a full build.
Assembly is free... as for testing, who knows? It’d be nice if they actually tested what they built.
Even with that $40 difference, it still ends up being less at $43. Honestly, I'd rather go with ADM since I wasn't feeling Micro Center lately.
Now I'm just stuck deciding; I'll send them an inquiry and see how it goes...

Regarding the cooler, Jason Harris5 already covered it... wouldn't say it any better myself.
Why did I pick AMD over Intel?

d) Even though I've been an Intel guy my whole life, I went with AMD for this last build because the price jump for Intel performance just didn't seem worth it... at least not to me.

I doubt I'd even notice any performance gaps. 😁
All I want is for it to work—so pages and docs don't take long enough for me to make lunch while waiting... and for it to run quiet. 🙂

Hope that helped.

You did. Big time. Thanks.
Maybe swap the fan for something slightly more expensive/better/quieter... but only once I pick a shop. Or maybe grab one of each. 🙂

Micro Center or ADM? 🤔 What do you guys think?
(Yeah, I'm super indecisive... but hey, we sorted most of this out pretty fast)
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Jason Harris5 said:An aftermarket cooler is basically anything you grab to swap out that standard CPU fan. Most manufacturers include a stock cooler with the processor, and while it gets the job done, it’s usually pretty loud and feels a bit cheap. Why settle for that when you could get something better?

So, does he just plug them both in... or is he swapping out the original mouse for the one he bought separately?

A heatsink isn't just a fan—those aren't the same thing. You mount a heatsink directly onto the processor to pull heat away while it's running. It’s got a base that sits right on the chip, topped with a metal block. Why bother? Heat moves from the processor through conduction, so if you didn't have that metal block sitting on top of the base, the CPU would just overheat instantly. Most cheap ones use aluminum for the block, but if you're looking at the high-end stuff, you're usually getting copper.

Even if a heatsink is massive and soaked in heat, it’s still going to overheat eventually without help. That’s why designers leave gaps in the block to let air flow through—you need that convection to pull the heat away from the unit and dump it into the room. This is where fans come into play, right? Usually, you'll find one sitting right on the heatsink itself, while the others are tucked away in different spots around the case. Since we're relying on moving air like this, we just call them air coolers.

Then there's liquid cooling. It basically works just like a central heating system—you've got a reservoir full of coolant and a pump pushing that fluid through a copper block to soak up all the heat. The big perks? It’s dead silent and incredibly efficient. The downside? It'll cost you more upfront, and you're always playing a little game of "will this leak?" if a fitting isn't tight. Risk worth taking?

Why did I lay all that out? Honestly, just because I know you're hanging around the CPU threads and clearly know your stuff.

It’s definitely got some similarities to how a water heater works compared to the whole heating system. Same goes for the hot water tank, right? 😁
The water in the heater cools down as it travels from the unit through all the radiators, right? So you have to heat it back up just to get it hot again. Basically, there's a coil inside the tank where the hot system water heats the sanitary water. 😉
So, does that liquid in the water cooling loop just keep cycling back to the CPU, or is there some extra step where it actually gets cooled down outside the case?
One thing you really need to nail down when picking a cooler is the socket. Intel uses numbers like 775 or 1150, while AMD sticks to letters like AM3 or AM2+. Also, if you're looking at an air cooler, check the fan size. Standard sizes are usually 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, or 140mm. Why does it matter? Simple: a bigger fan means lower RPMs for the same cooling power, which just means a quieter build.

Got it.
Since you're leaning toward AMD, skip that Arctic Cooling one—it isn't actually built for an AMD socket. I wouldn't touch Spira either; those fans crank up to 2000+ RPM, and Spira's bearings are pretty cheap, so they tend to rattle. Thermaltake is a solid bet. If you've got extra cash or if silence is a huge deal for you, maybe look into some Scythe or Zalman coolers.

It wasn't me saying that, just the other folks on the forum. I'm just looking at the pictures and the price tags. 😉
I just went with the more expensive option from what they wrote. Everyone says Intel is better (at least according to the tech magazines), and the suggested AMD processor was double the price of the Intel ones, so I just threw it on the list without thinking much about it. Honestly, I have no clue which is actually better. Maybe there's a better Intel option for around $222. 🤷 For the same money at Best Buy, you can get this Intel instead.
A comparison?

I compared the prices between Best Buy and ADM, and here’s how it looks (sorry for the long post, but this is my little corner of the web 😁 )

AMD
1. Processor $235
AMD Trinity A8-Series 3.60GHz 4cores, FM2
2. Motherboard $133
Asrock FM2A75M-HD+, Supports Socket FM2+ 95W / FM2 100W processes
3. Memory $106
DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1600MHz, CL9, Hyper X, KHX1600C9D3B1/
4. HDD $142
HDD WD 1TB, Caviar Blue 10EZEX, 1000 GB, SATA3, 64 MB, 3.5", 24mo warranty
5. Power Supply 228.98
Power Supply Chicony HPA-400W, Advanced Highly HPA Series
6. DVD $45
DVD burner Samsung SATA Bulk Black, SATA
7. Case $133
Zalman Z9 U3 mid tower case. 207(W) x 464(H) x 504(D)mm
8. Cooler 138.99
Thermaltake Contac 16, 775, AM2, AM2+, AM3, AM3+, FM1, 1155, 1156

TOTAL: 2749.94

Best Buy

1. Processor $222
Processor AMD A8 X4 5600K
2. Motherboard $121
Motherboard ASRock FM2A75M-HD+
3. Memory 286.80
Kingston HiperX B, DDR3 1600MHz, CL9, 4GB KHX1600C9D3B1/4G
4. HDD 415.03
Hard Drive WD Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 3 WD10EZEX
5. Power Supply 206.30
Chicony Active 400W ATX PSU, CHI-HPA-400W
6. DVD 121.91
Optical drive Samsung SATA Bulk Black
7. Case 398.09
Zalman mid tower case black, ZAL-Z9 U3
8. Cooler 119.76
CPU cooler Thermaltake Contac 16

TOTAL: 2578.89 (difference of $57)

Since the difference isn't small, Best Buy seems like the better move... I just still need to add a cooler.
Silence is really important to me... since I was looking for a build around $833 without a case, and this is a full set including a pricier case for 2600, I can definitely afford a slightly nicer cooler.
The issue is that at Best Buy, the Zalman coolers don't specify which processor they fit, so I'm stuck.
ADM has them listed... but I wonder if I can just buy one part somewhere else and bring it to the shop that offers free assembly. Because Best Buy ends up being $57 cheaper for the same stuff.

Here are some options:

ADM Coolers:

Scythe Kozuti SCKZT-1000, socket AM2/AM2+/AM3/775/1155/1156/1366 $78

Scythe Big Shuriken SCBSK-2100, socket AM2/AM2+/AM3/AM3+/FM1/FM2 $80

SCYTHE Ashura SCASR-1000, s. 2011/775/1155/1156/1366/AM2/AM2+/AM $125

ZALMAN CNPS 5X, socket 775/1155/1156/AM2/AM2/AM3 $53

Best Buy Coolers? (Zalman doesn't say which processors they work with)

Zalman CNPS10X OPTIMA CPU cooler. FAN: 120mm $77
Zalman CNPS8900 QUIET CPU cooler. FAN: 110mm $122
CPU cooler Thermaltake Contac 30 234.10

Can anyone help me out with a cooler?
Also, if anyone’s got thoughts on swapping the CPU, I'm all ears—any suggestions for a decent cooler to go with it? The one being suggested is a $40, but wouldn't something a bit more substantial be better for this setup?
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Robert Rodriguez2 said:Honestly, what I put together for you is more than enough for your everyday home setup. You really need anything more than that?

I think this is even further from what you actually suggested. I just did a quick scan—not sure which specific items from the list—but I’m pretty sure most of that was your idea anyway, right?
Honestly, I don't see the point in grabbing an SSD right now. Since they use flash memory instead of those old magnetic platters and read heads found in traditional hard drives, they're way faster—but let's be real, the capacities are still pretty small and they're relatively expensive. Is it even worth it yet?

Alright, that's out.
Every one of those Intel and AMD chips comes with a cooler in the box. But honestly, if you're going with AMD, wouldn't it be worth grabbing an aftermarket cooler? It'll run quieter and keep things way cooler.

So, adding one more cooler... or a fan... is that basically the same thing? And what exactly does "aftermarket" even mean?
You suggested them: (the first two were yours)
Got my hands on an Arctic Cooling Alpine 11 Pro 2 for the 775/1156 socket. It’s a solid 92mm PWM fan. Think it'll handle the heat? $28
Thinking about picking up a Thermaltake Contac? It covers everything from 775 to AM3+. Pretty versatile, right? $46
Spire Kepler Rev.2 at $86.98. Not bad, right?

Do I really only need one of those? That Thermaltake you suggested... is that enough to get the job done?

You don't actually need two separate drives just to run two partitions, right?
You can physically partition the drive while you're installing Windows, so that shouldn't be much of an issue for you. 🙂

Thanks a bunch.
Does this list look alright to you, or is there something you'd definitely toss out to swap in your own suggestions? Or is everything already in there, making it pretty much a non-issue?
Looking back at it now... honestly, everything you suggested is right there, just with a beefier power supply.

I'll take another look at everything tomorrow... I'm gonna see what I can pull together from the Advanced Highly HPA Series line (most people were pointing me toward Best Buy anyway), then I'll drop it here for a final check before I pull the trigger on the order.
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Took me a minute to pull all those individual prices together... especially once I figured out what was actually what.
I did a little digging and, thanks to all your great advice, I finally pulled this together:
If all that fits together... I mean, am I missing anything, or is that pretty much everything you need for a build? Do the cables come included, or do I need to grab something else separately?

The processor was $704.99. I couldn't find that exact one at Best Buy. $22Just like that photo Robert Rodriguez2 posted.
The AMD Trinity A8-Series processor. Anyone else still rocking one?

2. motherboard, $384.73. Any takers?
The Asrock FM2A75M-HD+ works with both Socket FM2+ 95W and FM2 100W processors. Pretty straightforward, right? $128

Third memory stick, $286.80.
Found this single 4GB stick of Kingston HyperX DDR3. It's 1600MHz with CL9 latency. Anyone else running similar specs? $96

4. Hard drive. $137
Western Digital 1TB Caviar Blue, 1000GB, SATA3, 64MB, 3.5", 24-month warranty. $137

The fifth power supply. Any thoughts? $69
Chicony 400W ATX Power Supply, CHI-HPA-400W $69

DVD at $121.91. Not bad, right?
Picked up a Samsung DVD burner today. It's the SATA Bulk Black version, just $121.91. Not bad, right?

Case number 7 (starts at $180).$153)
Eighth CPU cooler ($85).$47)
9. SSD ($220)

Those prices look like they're straight out of downtown Manhattan. I'm still gonna check what the Advanced Highly HPA Series has going on first, then maybe see if I can put together something similar through them.

That brings the total to 2,116.21.
7-9... that's 945 total, right?$420

Everything from items 1 through 9 comes out to somewhere between $3,061 and $3,376. That covers the whole setup, including the case, the cooler, and the SSD. Not too bad, right?
Since not everyone went with the cooler, I'm still on the fence about whether I actually need it. But hey, it isn't exactly breaking the bank, right?
I'm stumped on this SSD thing... some kind of speed boost? Robert Rodriguez2 says I don't even need it, so that's like saving $2,400. Is it really worth it?$900 Totally fits the budget. Even if you go with a pricier case.
Would that work?
Do you actually need two of those just to have two partitions?
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
@Rachel Jones8, don't take it personally. I was talking about women in general, you know?

That's a bummer.
And if you actually think that... Everything. If you're talking about the female population, then I guess it's pretty obvious that I'm part of that group too, right? All of it. Women's populations.
Think of this as a little cheat sheet for building PCs for women. Being a guy in this field, I'm constantly surrounded by tech both at home and on the job, so I’ve learned to stay ready for even the weirdest questions—especially when I see that look of total confusion in their eyes.

It’s kind of wild, isn't it? Even when you're surrounded by women, they still feel like these strange, exotic creatures you just can't wrap your head around... not even their questions make sense.
I honestly don't get why people find my questions so weird... I mean, let's be real, not every guy out there is some tech genius who can rattle off every single IT term under the sun, right?
Look, the folks above suggesting builds definitely know their stuff way more than I do. They just don't realize they're walking a fine line between life and death—a line most of us guys don't even see, let alone care about.

Yeah, I’m gonna find everyone who helped me pick this out and personally strangle them.
If you approach a woman with a smile, you could pretty much sell her even the most useless junk just by packaging it nicely. Right? What if that bright, sunny energy just fades away? I don't see it happening, though. There's no way she could sell something truly useful and practical while staying that cold and rational.

This is getting ridiculous... I guess we’ll just have to say our goodbyes and call it quits.
So, some guys suggest a build to me, I go ahead and buy it... and I end up with total junk. Who was it?
Maybe someone tried to talk me into some flashy pink box filled with absolute garbage components, and I finally snapped out of it? What are you even talking about?
Man, us guys just don't know how to pitch things reasonably or functionally without adding enough charm that you don't even notice the price tag.

Maybe you.
Eighth, crimsonstag84, TNG, Robert Rodriguez2, Fosna, Halek, and maybe a few others I missed—you guys absolutely crushed it. Seriously, thanks again, boys. 😁
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Morgan Miller2 said:I'm speechless. Man, you definitely earned that drink—not just for the quote, but for that whole last post!

I was thinking about the first one... honestly, I'm speechless too, but we'll figure it out.

Spike... what you wrote there is just ugly. It's unnecessary, over the top, and honestly, a bit rude if you ask me.
I get that you weren't talking specifically to me, just making a general point... I'm just wondering though, out of this entire forum and every possible topic available, why on earth did you pick "Rachel Jones8's corner" of all things?
I’m not really speaking from my own perspective here. It isn't personal or anything... I'm just keeping it general. Using "I" is just a stylistic choice, you know?

Michael Jackson10 said:Jack, Robert Rodriguez2, what are you even talking about? You acting like you just landed on Mars... got any women around the house?
I'd bet anything that if I built this with a Fractal Design case—if only they made one in a subtle shade of pink!—and filled it with old parts, it would be a massive hit with basically every woman out there. Wouldn't it?

At first glance—looking at the price and the look—yeah, this case would totally pass if it wasn't white and a bit more affordable. From what I can gather, it’s got a solid brand name, plus those fun controllers and doors I really dig. Everything else seems to check the boxes too... the vents and all that. It just looks clean and decent.
How much is this gonna run me? $133 Even if it's black, I'm buying it immediately. Who wouldn't?
My old parts are still sitting in that same bucket...😂
Why would I even bother hunting for a way to build a new rig on such a tiny budget if this one actually works for me?
Pink?! 🤣 Ugh... I can't stand pink, or red... or anything like that.

So, what’s there to even think about? Most people don't really get the technical side anyway. Choosing between AMD and Intel is basically like picking between Lionel Messi and Neymar Jr. And all that talk about PATA to SATA to SSD? Just a bunch of acronyms nerds use to feel important.

Honestly, if you don't even know what an SSD, PATA, or SATA is, are you even trying? It’s pretty basic stuff.
We all need to stay on top of this whole AMD vs. Intel rivalry to figure out which chips actually win in different price ranges. You see people hyping up the Core i3, i5, or i7 like they're the holy grail, but when you're hunting for a budget build, an AMD chip often ends up being the smarter play. I've actually been running an AMD build in my own setup for ten years now, so trust me—it’s definitely not as simple as everyone thinks it is.
On the other hand, that massive, ugly beast of a case with its military-grade shackles... let's be real, the Thermaltake Level 10 definitely appeals to the guys, while most women would absolutely hate it.

Not sure which one you mean... I'm looking at the pics, but I need the labels to match. If you're talking about this one, then yeah, I get it. (Though I never really bothered to learn the difference between the GT and GTS models... it's basically the same thing $333anyway)

A PC is just a necessary box to make all that gear actually work (kind of like how a voltage stabilizer used to be for old TVs),

Makes sense. It’ll work fine in the $50 model, the 400 one, or even the $267 version.
Still, I usually figure if there's a price jump, there's probably a quality jump too. Not always, though.

and if cases were offered in, I don't know, fancy finishes like rosewood, wenge, Bavarian beech, matte satin, or high gloss, every girl would pick whatever matches her furniture best,

If I were picking based on those kinds of guidelines, I'd want something like this.

(when we brought a friend a new computer, just a basic, neutral black cheap case, she started going off: why does the monitor have a silver trim while the PC doesn't, and whether she should paint the PC to match the beech wood or vice versa).
Once people fill your head with all that cooling hype—four fans, a potentiometer, and a temperature display for your living room set—they start thinking it's actually essential.

.
Nobody ever sold me on that nonsense. Honestly, I trust the guys on these forums when they say that stuff is overkill.
I've been staring at that temperature display for 10 years... in the summer it hits 40°C, so I just dial back the fan. Or I turn it down at night while we're watching TV and it's humming away... or someone turns it down in the morning so others can sleep.
Sure, I know a new rig (even if it's only like $600-$700) will be great and way quieter... but habit and bias keep me interested in those extra features.

Say someone suggests a Fractal Design mini without thinking twice, and they've basically opened Pandora's box: just imagine a mesh front with a fan sitting right behind it.

Most of them look like that and have those meshes. How much dust they actually collect in a dusty house or how much damage it does? No clue. My PC is packed with dust. You can barely even see the fan vents through the grime... but it still runs. It's tough.
As far as I'm concerned, the case is fine and I could stick with my old one. But honestly, it feels more practical and smarter to just grab a new one.

In ten days it's full of dust, which brings up a ton of questions: did that front fan really need to be there if it just sucks in everything? Where's the filter? Does she have to change it herself or does the shop service it monthly? Can you use a vacuum filter? Since it pulls in so much dust at the intake, what is it doing at the back? Did you put all those fans in just to drive her crazy when she has a migraine? What are you even cooling if the house is already warm because you're trying to save on the electric bill...

You seriously think all women are just that clueless? Like they don't know anything beyond vacuuming the floor?
I can't even bring myself to vacuum, let alone deal with changing filters. If people start telling me it’s some kind of absolute necessity... then maybe I'll get around to it. Maybe.
As far as the fans go, I’m pretty sure they were put there for a reason... which is exactly why I went with the ones that have a few extras.

When you're buying tech for a girl, you basically flip a switch in your brain to "female" mode:

You're totally disrespecting women, man. That’s just not a good look, is it?
I mean, I get where you're coming from—women can be complicated, and guys definitely tend to keep things simpler, which makes some stuff easier to navigate. But isn't that a bit of a stretch? You're generalizing a little too much there.
It’s basically a new piece of furniture. If you actually need it, it’s gotta blend in with the room, right? Especially if you can't just hide it under the bed or the couch.

If you actually bothered to read this thread—and it’s still pretty early days—you’d see my rig is sitting right on my desk. Honestly, it’s not even on a real desk; it’s just perched on this unfinished piece of wood resting on a shallow scrap sheet. The weight of the PC case is the only thing keeping that board steady, and that's where my monitor and keyboard live. Pretty sketchy setup, right?
If it’s actually visible, it’s probably just following some trendy design guide or packed with useless features like random LEDs, numbers, or a potentiometer that isn't even wired up to anything. I mean, even a microwave has stuff like that—how's it supposed to know if it's even working?

My apartment's interior design guidelines feel like they were pulled straight from the late nineties...
If that potentiometer isn't actually wired to anything, I'm gonna be pissed. (Maybe that's just me being dramatic, but if the specs say it's there, it better work.) The one I'm using right now does a killer job at dialing the fan speed up or down... which keeps my temps exactly where they need to be.
It’s gotta reflect the owner's personality—honestly, I have no clue what that actually means, just like what Gloria says.

Honestly, I have no clue how a single black square box is supposed to reflect my personality... and besides, why would I even ask it to? That's asking way too much from a hunk of plastic and metal that only costs a couple hundred bucks.
It’d be way better if they called it iSomething or eSomething, you know? Since we're talking tech and all.

As far as I'm concerned, they can call it whatever they want... even "EZ eShit." If people tell me it's cool, then I guess it's cool. Right?
-
There’s gotta be "something" in there—something that just works flawlessly. It needs to hit every current need and all those future wants she doesn't even know she has yet. I'm talking about a machine that covers everything a modern PC can offer, stays rock-solid (it's brand new, for crying out loud!), and packs enough punch to handle anything thrown at it without breaking a sweat. It should stay ahead of the curve, making every single task feel instant.

Honestly, you're talking nonsense. I've had this same PC for ten years... just one machine. What am I supposed to expect from a new one? That it'll cook me dinner? Or be good at everything? Everything what? 🙄
Just play videos without lagging or open a document today? Is that what you think I'm looking for?
Since this stuff is invisible, it’s clearly the least important part of the whole setup. It should probably take up the smallest chunk of the budget, maybe even $0.00.

You're being pretty rude, honestly.
No, I'm not saying zero dollars, I'm saying what I actually wrote. Up to $2,500-$867. It isn't impossible to build a rig for my needs with that kind of cash.
You can find pre-built setups for way less than that. They come with a keyboard, mouse, and even a monitor. So, isn't it fair to expect that people who actually know their stuff could build something better for that price? That’s why I’m on this forum—to ask around and learn about things I don't know, so I don't just grab the first flyer that hits my mailbox for $1,500-$833. I want the experts here to help me get more bang for my buck with those $833. Sorry if that's not enough.
Basically, when you pick that "something," you usually screw up: it's either overpriced, too weak, too loud, or it breaks... whatever you choose, it's wrong.

Who? Who are you talking to? New tech breaks more often now than it used to. My current PC served me well, but it's time for retirement. I'm not expecting miracles from someone else's hardware, I just need it to handle the basics better than this old thing for a while.
If I can get that within the budget I can actually afford right now, then we're good.
So your logic is to squeeze every bit of value out of a beggar's budget, find some sweet spot between quality and performance, try to prep for future headaches, and then just wait a few years until technology catches up... because either way, you're already the bad guy by default...

I really appreciate all the advice and suggestions from the guys here. Maybe I'll drive someone crazy, but not because of the tech... it's just how I write, so things get misinterpreted. People read too much into it. But hey, I'm always happy to clarify and say exactly what I mean.

....here we go again...
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
I saw that. 🙂
The Z3+ is actually more expensive on sale than it is at the local computer shop or Micro Center.
I could spend half a year just picking out a case, but I’m trying not to overthink things I don't fully understand—easier said than done, right? I figured it’s best to narrow it down to one or two options just so I know which shops actually stock them. That way, when someone puts together a killer budget build for me, I won't run into a situation where their favorite shop doesn't have a case that fits my "highly technical" aesthetic standards.
So, here's what I'm thinking:
They don't have the Z5+ at Futuremark.
But Micro Center and the other local shop have both the Z5+ and the Z9 U3, plus the Z3+ if I change my mind (which totally could happen). The Z9 U3 costs the same, and the Z5+ is $10 pricier at the center, but it's not a dealbreaker since maybe another part will end up being cheaper anyway... I had one experience at the center where they were super unprofessional and rude, so I told myself I wouldn't go back there. But since others seem to have good experiences, maybe I'll give them another shot if people recommend them... maybe they were just having a bad day.

It would be ideal if whoever builds this uses parts from those two shops, since they offer free assembly if you buy everything there. Just a reminder: we're looking at a configuration under 2500$867, excluding peripherals.
If anyone has a pro or con list for choosing between those two cases, I'm all ears.
The specs and looks seem fine to me based on the photos, but I'm really not a fan of the plexiglass side panels... I'm worried about too much glare. My PC sits behind my monitor, and it's not exactly practical to turn it around. Is there something I can stick on the glass if it gets annoying?
Also, how should I connect my old hard drive later? Would it work with this or just a cable and an adapter (without its own power supply)? Not as a permanent fix, obviously, just so I can slowly browse through it, move my files, and then toss it if it's junk.
The most important thing is the motherboard—it needs to have that specific port for my keyboard (the round purple one). My mouse uses the same type (just green), though it works via USB since it's on an adapter... basically, the more USB ports I have left over, the better.
I thought about waiting a few weeks because I need to sort through and back up some important stuff, which is a headache because there's *so* much (if you saw my desktop, you'd get it). But if I've decided to go with a new case, I can grab that whenever... I'll save up once I handle the data transfer from the old HDD. Honestly, getting a whole new setup sounds better than struggling to pull components out of my current rig and being without a computer for days. If I do it this way... once the new gear arrives, I'll have the cash ready and can get back to bothering you guys with new questions.
Oh, and one more thing... do I need to buy two separate drives to have two partitions (like C and D) like I used to, or can that be done on a single drive? If I need two, I need to factor that into the budget.
Thanks, everyone. 🙂
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
It’s not just about looks, though. People on other forums are raving about it. I see here that it’s got plenty of room, more fan mounts, a built-in fan controller, and dust filters...
What kind of shop are you thinking of? Just want to check if they even carry it 😉 there
.
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Timothy Kim60 said:When you copy that list from the side, it doesn't say which Zalman case is being used.

Since there's a little extra cash left over, I might just pick whichever one catches my eye. 😁
I'm hoping you guys can actually chat about each other's ideas, too. If it's just me, I'm basically picking based on price, looks, and what you all say.
Once I settle on a case—just based on photos and descriptions for now—I'll ask if it's a good call. Then maybe I'll see which shop actually has it in stock along with the rest of the parts.
Right now, those Zalman ones look better to me, and since you guys seem to recommend them more often, I'll probably end up with one of those. (The Z5+ isn't bad.)
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Benjamin King2 said:You've got two physical drives? You can actually combine them into one on a new build using a controller like this: I can't believe people still think they can just slap any old controller on an old SATA drive and call it a day. You really want to risk your data like that? It’s basically playing Russian roulette with your hard drive. Honestly, if you care about your files, just do it right the first time. Why gamble with your hardware?
Your data on the drives will stay exactly where it is. You’ll just need to do a fresh install of Windows onto a new drive.

Sounds simple enough and cheap, too... but shoving two ancient (incompatible) drives into a new build? Maybe I should just put something actually useful in there instead.
I don't know... if it doesn't cause any issues, then fine. But if the better move is just to move the essentials and toss the rest, maybe that’s not the best way to go? Though... I guess I could just pull them out and dump them anyway. It's just... I feel like I'll never actually finish a "job" if there's always going to be some leftover stuff hanging around.

Quote : The New Guy
When it comes to burning discs, you're better off saving the data to a hard drive first and then burning from there to your second drive. Trying to burn on-the-fly is just asking for read errors. Honestly, having two optical drives is pretty much overkill.
Alright, let's go with one then.

Quote : The New Guy
Michael Jackson10 said:Since it looks like she'll probably end up needing a totally new PC anyway—by the time she actually makes up her mind, the old one will be several generations out of date—why bother?

Heh... how did you even read my mind like that? 😁
Why not just hook them both up to the home router, share all those old drives from the old rig, and just take it slow? Just sift through everything, grab what matters, ditch the junk, and maybe—just maybe—one day that old man can finally get some peace and quiet?

Yeah, that would definitely be the smartest move, but I honestly have no clue how to actually pull it off.
That's exactly why I was thinking about using some kind of cable or adapter to hook it all up.How about this? It actually felt like a pretty simple and cheap way to go—assuming you don't need some random power adapter from overseas.
Or just leave it exactly how it is? This is it.It’s not like it's some massive investment, right? Plus, it should let you keep those two drives accessible whenever you need them. You just download what you want, grab it, and toss it in the trash when you're done.
Everything else is just PATA to SATA conversions, old optical drives, and ancient junk that’s bound to die one day anyway. You end up buying an adapter for this or that, wasting cash on legacy hardware that’ll just sit there gathering dust. Why not just dump that money straight into a new build instead? It's a no-brainer.

The truth is, none of this data is mission-critical... it’s just ten years of stuff piling up without any real organization.
Obviously, the important files are easy enough to move to an external drive.
Connecting the old drive felt like a good way to force myself to actually deal with it right away... rather than just letting it pile up indefinitely.
Look, if saving old data is a one-time critical issue—and I assume she’ll hire someone to set up her new Windows install—she can just ask the tech at the repair shop to dump all the old drives onto one partition of the new drive (which would only take up about 20% of the space). Everything stays in one place, she can sort through it at her own pace, and then just wipe the rest later.

I personally have 93.4 GB free out of 148 GB on my C drive, and 38.6 GB free out of 111 GB on D. All that would really fit into 20% of a new partition?

I fell into that same trap of trying to cram old HDDs into new builds. Luckily, I didn't need adapters, but now you can't even fit a toothpick in the case. Plus, once they start spinning together, the whole thing runs hot as an oven during the summer.

I definitely don't want that old drive taking up space if it isn't doing anything useful. I just thought that instead of trying to organize everything myself before the swap, I could do it gradually after the new system is up... sort of a quick cleanup before I toss it.
Bottom line: make a clean break. Get something new, skip the adapters, and give the old junk to some hobbyists. You won't even need fan controllers because there won't be any overheating hardware to worry about.

Seriously? (And here I was thinking those temp lights were actually cool.)
They don't overheat? My PC shuts down constantly in the summer because of the heat. (I'm guessing that's why.)
You get USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 ports on both the front and back depending on the case. Those LED temp indicators are just leftovers from the Pentium 4 and AMD Barton days when things used to run crazy hot and show all kinds of wild readings...

Well, I'd expect them to be available in both places. 😉
Honestly... I don't know what else to say about that kind of "legacy."
By the way, this thread is actually pretty cool. This has turned into such a great little saga. ..it could honestly become its own dedicated sub-forum one day: "Dr. Strangelove - how I learned to stop worrying and love the bomb... excuse me, my new PC..."

Glad you guys aren't mad at me. And hey, if you want to isolate me in my own little "bubble," fine by me—some people love the company, others can just pass me by... boring old Rachel Jones8. 😁

So, here's the deal—for the build, I've set aside about $2400-$833. I'd probably end up spending more in six months... but then again, maybe all this cash will just vanish anyway. Honestly, I don't think much more can save my current rig. It wasn't cheap, and some people thought it was weird that I expected it to last ten years... but it did. And it's still kicking, even if it's struggling.
Now I need something that’s an actual upgrade. Nothing crazy, just something noticeably better. Right now, mine just... spins... and spins... and hitches and freezes.
I already listed what I use it for... if you need me to repeat it, just ask... basically, it's a jack-of-all-trades machine.
Since I'm still not 100% sure what to do with the case, I'm thinking about just getting a whole new one... it beats the headache of pulling parts out and cleaning everything.
I'm planning to spend an extra $133 on the case itself.
Not to get too deep into it... this one caught my eye; it has a really clean look.
This Zalman one isn't bad either, at least in the photos, and it has some little details I really like. (Not that it matters, just saying...)
Suggestions are definitely welcome. My main thing is that I don't want it glowing or flashing too much, at least not on the front. (I remember that Z3 +... the look isn't everything, but I liked that one too.)
And since I can't go over $1000, I'm keeping about 100 aside for an adapter or whatever else I might have missed... cables... stuff you might not list in a parts list.

So that's where I'm at... I'll either spend the next six months agonizing over this, annoying you all to death, and ultimately buying nothing because the money disappeared.
Or, I'll just pull the trigger in a few weeks or a month and buy a $2500-$1000 setup and hopefully have something better than what I have now. (I saw a full setup with a mouse and keyboard for about $500 at a Best Buy today, so I assume I can put together something decent for double that.)

Anyway... maybe with your help, we can make this happen. 😁
I'm looking at the end of the month... so not necessarily right this second... if anyone wants to help brainstorm a build for a total of $1000 (nothing over that), here's the breakdown:
- up to $2500 for components (everything except peripherals like the mouse, keyboard, and monitor)
- $400 for the case
- $100 for a possible (temporary) way to connect my old drive... or for things like cables and stuff that I haven't accounted for yet.

The goal is for it to be faster and (relatively) quiet compared to my current setup. (My current specs and photos of the case inside and out are on the previous pages in post # 31 and 35
.) I'd prefer to get all the parts from a local shop (like a Micro Center) that offers free assembly. (I'll be paying cash.)
I want two partitions... I assume that's standard, or does that require two separate drives? 🤷
If needed, I can take a photo of the back panel... regarding the ports... I have that green/purple round connector for my mouse and keyboard... even though the mouse is USB, it's plugged into the PC via that green round adapter... which actually works for me since it leaves a USB port free for other things. The keyboard has a round purple jack. (I really don't want to swap out the mouse and keyboard just for the sake of the connection... I can always do that later.)
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
fadedorca66 said:Nah, it's not that. I just don't sweat the small stuff, you know? Honestly, you should just pick what works for you. You're the one who knows what you need and where you want those USB ports to sit.

It would be ideal to have them on the front left side like my current setup, but it’s not a dealbreaker. It's just that two of mine aren't working.
About those USB slots... looking at these motherboards, they all seem to have the same amount.
Most of mine are already taken up (printer, keyboard, external HDD, network adapter, plus I still need space for a thumb drive, camera, phone... and maybe that old external drive too...) so I'm wondering if there's a board with more ports, or if a USB hub is the way to go.

What does this part actually mean?
Storage
149GB Western Digital WDC WD1600AAJB-00J3A0 ATA Device (ATA) 37 °C
111GB Seagate ST3120026A ATA Device (ATA) 35 °C

Are those two separate drives? How am I supposed to know which case to get for them? Is it 2.5 or 3.5 inch? (That's the standard, right?)

Maybe this would work too. It doesn't mention ATA, it just says IDE... is that basically the same thing?
There are also those adapter cables (this one here)... but apparently some drives need an extra power plug while others don't. Any idea why?
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
fadedorca66 said:If you plug that old hard drive into a new PC, everything will be exactly the same. If you can find those files now, you'll still find them once you hook it up as an external drive.

Great... except I think I hit a snag.
CNN.com actually got back to me and said they'd swap it into my old case for free, as long as I clear it out first. (I guess I could figure that part out on my own)
But here's the thing:
"You can put that old drive in an external enclosure if it uses a SATA interface, but if it’s an older ATA model, unfortunately, those adapters aren't really sold anymore."
Since mine uses ATA (those flat ribbon cables), that won't work. 😢
Though... I suppose there's always the option of using some weird adapters and wires.
You can barely find DVD-ROM drives in stores anymore, and even if you do, they're only a couple of bucks cheaper than burners, so it's not worth it. Better to just grab two burners... Though honestly, why spend $50 on another burner when people hardly use them? Besides, why not just burn the files to a disc first and then write them? It's probably safer anyway.

True. Now I just need to figure out how to actually do that...
As for the case, it's your call—pick whatever looks good to you. I see you're worried about dust getting into the USB ports, so I won't even go there. 😍

Oh, come on. Is it stupid? Or what?
I'm not a total neat freak (if that's what you meant), quite the opposite, actually.
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Sorry, but since you didn't really explain what you meant and just repeated yourself... I’m still lost. I don't know all the tech jargon, so I'm not sure what you mean by "PC" versus "everything else." If I'm keeping my old computer, then all these new parts aren't just "the rest"... it's basically an entirely new rig. So, I don't get what would be left over if everything is new.
Actually, never mind. Yeah, I want everything brand new (all the "other stuff"... except 🤷 😁) because my current setup is ancient, and I won't need the old machine anymore—unless I can somehow tuck my old hard drive into the new one. Maybe with an external enclosure or something.

On that note, how would I actually access that hard drive later? And will everything currently on this computer stay right where it is on it? (Sorry for the silly questions!)
Right now, I see:
- Local Disk C
- Local Disk D
- Floppy A
- DVD RW E
- DVD RW F
...and obviously, when I open C or D, there's everything... users, programs, folders, documents...

How would I view that old hard drive... and how would the files be laid out inside? Do I need to organize things into specific folders first... or will it be easy enough to just find my old stuff?
Also... since I've got my tech question out there... and there are always those (total masochists 😉) who are willing to answer basic amateur questions...
I have two DVD drives. When I burn something (not often), I just move it from one to the other. If I only have one, does that mean I have to burn it to the computer first and then onto the second CD? Is that how it works?
I'd love to keep a system like this... where one can just be for reading (ROM)... is that okay?

Regarding the case... once we start picking a configuration, I'll probably make a call. This Z3 + looks decent, but the ports are on the top, so they'll probably collect more dust than if they were on the side or front. (And trust me, there's plenty of dust.) My tower sits on my desk, not in a cabinet. Also, it doesn't look like it has fan speed controllers, which I use quite a bit right now... since I monitor my temps and crank up the fans when it gets hot.
Looking at some pictures and descriptions... this case seems to have that feature. 😍
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Shout out to the mod for being creative and kicking this off with such a funny title. 👍
And thanks to everyone who's jumped in... or will soon. 😁
You guys nailed it when I was looking for a laptop, so I know I'm in good hands here too.
But let's hold off on the specific builds for now—there's plenty of time. Like the thread says... I'm just gathering info for the moment. 🙂
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
Timothy Kim60 said:Just stick with what you have. Unless you're planning on keeping that old PC and upgrading everything else around it.

I don't get it. What do you mean "everything else"?
Look, if you're looking at a $2,500 budget, how much more could you even spend? You probably wouldn't get any real suggestions for a better case anyway, so it shouldn't matter. I can already guess the kind of build you'd get—likely some Celeron or Pentium setup (maybe an AMD APU) in a cheap ATX Zalman case ($150-$60) and that's basically all you'll get for that money.

I know that when people suggest builds in the $2,000–$2,500 range, they usually go with a cheap case. But I was wondering if it makes sense to buy a PC for, say, $1000, where a huge chunk of the price goes toward the tower. I mean, you could build a rig for $767 plus a $700 case, or a rig for $2,800 with a $200 case, right?
And if that $2,200 option actually performs better than my current setup (like, no laggy video and faster speeds), then maybe it's not such a bad idea... or is it? 😕
The case doesn't matter for you, unless aesthetics are a big deal to you and you want to swap things out just for the look.

Nah, I'm fine with how my old one looks. But check this out: Micro Center charges about $120 to build into an old case... but if you buy a new one, they do the assembly for free. So it might actually be smarter to just grab a new one... especially if I just toss an extra $40 on there to get something high-quality. 🤷

Those expensive, feature-packed cases are really meant for high-end overclocking rigs (if that's your thing). They have tons of fans, plenty of room for expansion, enough clearance for massive CPU coolers, and space for liquid cooling—stuff you don't really need.

Not sure what that is, but... yeah, I don't need it.
Kajper's Info Corner in Desktops ·
It’s not even about which case I pick, it's more like—is a case even the right way to go? Hope it's cool to post this here without starting a whole new thread.
So...
Computer keeps freezing up and lagging... everything's just super slow. Anyone else dealing with this?
I’m just sitting here thinking about how I can actually upgrade this thing without breaking the bank. Since everything I own is basically nine years old, I'm hoping a decent jump isn't totally out of reach? I see some build suggestions floating around for maybe $350 or so. Is that even doable?
Before I even start looking for actual help on a specific thread, I wanted to get some quick advice on what to do with my case. fadedorca66 already suggested just sticking with my old one if I’m happy with it, but after doing some digging online, I'm starting to second-guess that idea. What do you guys think?
Say someone writes something like this:
High-end cases are just built different. You get sturdier builds where the side panels don't bend when you're messing around, way easier cable management, and cooling that actually works. Plus, most of them are toolless for swapping drives or GPUs, and the overall finish looks a hell of a lot cleaner. Isn't it worth the extra cash? They're quieter, too, and have way better dust protection...
The veterans will tell you it is. You really can't go wrong by dropping a little extra on a solid case and a reliable power supply right out of the gate. Isn't it better to get that foundation right from day one?Everything else is just secondary. If you grab a high-quality case and a solid PSU, they can easily outlast several full system rebuilds—motherboard, CPU, RAM, all that stuff—without even looking used.

I honestly wonder if it’s even worth cramming all this new gear into an old case. I’m kind of obsessed with how this one has that top side panel on the right—it fits my setup perfectly since I don't want to have to shove the whole rig around just to open it up. Plus, you can't beat having that temp display right there. Makes sense, right?
So, we're talking about a case that looks... Alright.Just missing those little buttons you see in the photos, though. In here. Here’s a shot from the inside.
I was planning on dropping about... $833It’s basically an all-rounder for office work, browsing, Photoshop, video editing, music... just a little bit of everything. I don't really game, but I guess you could probably handle some light stuff on it?
Is it actually worth splurging on a better case, even if the rest of the build is budget-friendly?
Honestly, I wish it was a thousand bucks. It’s sitting right on my desk in the living room, just behind the monitor, and it's kind of an eyesore when I'm trying to watch TV. Anyone else deal with that?
I really wish it had better dust protection—maybe some doors or just fewer holes—without totally killing the airflow. And wouldn't it be killer if there was a dedicated slot for cards?
Honestly, I’m not exactly an expert on what makes a case "good," but it feels pretty obvious that investing in a high-quality one now is the move. Wouldn't it be smarter to grab something beefier that'll actually last me years? I want room to grow—you know, for future upgrades or swapping parts without the headache. Why cram everything into this old, cramped box just to have to rip the whole thing apart later when I inevitably need to swap a component? I don't really get how those tight builds work, and I'd rather avoid that mess.
Then again, does it even make sense to sink all that extra cash into a case when you could be spending it elsewhere? $667.
Honestly, I feel like buying some cheap, bottom-tier case is the worst move you could make. Why bother dropping an extra hundred bucks just to end up with something subpar?$100Rather than just getting something mediocre, why not just stick with what I have or toss in an extra fifty bucks? Wouldn't it be better to grab a actually decent case for like $75?$233 Or more? And for the remaining $2300–$2500, just pick out the internal components?

Edit:
I'm actually thinking about adding a fan controller to the mix. It’s a game changer. Now that summer is hitting, I have to crank up the fans just to keep the rig from shutting down. Definitely feels like a solid upgrade.
So, I was wondering... what exactly is one of those docking stations for 3.5" or 2.5" HDDs or SSDs?
So, I just found out you can grab an external enclosure for an old hard drive from your current PC and just plug it into a USB port... isn't that basically doing the exact same thing?