Well, it didn't happen after all. 🙂 I picked up a new USB adapter and now (at least initially) everything seems fine; my Wi-Fi works perfectly even after waking from sleep mode. I’m actually seeing five bars now instead of just three. 😁 The only thing I still don't get is why the fan shuts off sometimes during sleep, but other times stays running. If I hit sleep immediately, everything cuts out, but if I step away and come back... well, it’s hit or miss. (I'm gonna flip that hybrid sleep setting back to ON and see if that's the culprit)
I was messing around with my advanced power settings and switched "allow hybrid sleep" to off. Now, for some reason, a hibernation option popped up right next to the shutdown button. 🤔
You think there's a chance the new USB Wi-Fi adapter might still cut out after sleep mode, forcing me to unplug and replug it every single time? I don't really care about hibernation, but this... I'd love to avoid having to do that constantly every time my laptop goes to sleep.
Whatever... I tried following those steps above to turn on hibernation just to see if it would work, but the option didn't even show up.
Since you mentioned getting a USB adapter with an antenna is the way to go, now I'm torn between these two:
TP-LINK TL-WN722NC $32 (not sure if the antenna actually detaches) and D-Link DWA-140 $32
The first one comes with an antenna and a cable (so I could move it around), while the second one doesn't have an antenna. But the shop selling the second one is right around the corner, so I could grab it tomorrow... so I'll ask one more time (my bad), is that first one really a much better bet for being about 15 feet from the router? If there isn't a huge difference, I might just go with whatever is closer... and black. 🙂 (plus, if I didn't even need the cable and could just plug it straight into the PC, that'd be ideal... fewer wires to deal with)
Timothy Kim60 said:Honestly, if you're paying the same price, why wouldn't you want an antenna? It just screws right onto the unit, so location isn't really an issue. "
Duh, obviously it doesn't. That's exactly why I figured the wired version might be more practical—you know, being able to move it further away or mount it higher up. Thanks for the tip on hibernation; I'll give it a shot. Though, honestly, the hibernation thing isn't my main headache—it's more about how my WiFi keeps cutting out whenever I hit sleep mode. "
graniteeagle25 said:I'd also suggest checking out Control Panel -> Power Options -> Change plan Settings for whatever you're currently using -> Change advanced power settings
then under wireless adapter Settings -> Power Saving mode, just pick Maximum performance.
It's already on max.
Maybe try setting USB selective suspend setting to Disabled under USB Settings.
That should basically tell the computer not to cut power to the Wi-Fi adapter or any USB gear. 🤷
Just changed those... I'll let you know.
Nope, didn't help, still the same issue. Whatever, if the new one works fine, I'm happy. 🙂
The one I picked out has a cord, so I can move it to a better spot, which seemed like a smart move. I'm planning on getting a PCI card once I can finally open up my PC. Does the antenna actually matter that much... or is it more about where you plug the USB in? It's only about 5m of line-of-sight distance. My old connection is sitting at 3 out of 5 bars (that little icon in the bottom right corner... when I click it, it shows 4 green ones).
so hibernation isn't working for you?
I don't even have that option. I've always just used sleep mode, so I'm used to that (I really need the fan to stop spinning when I'm away). When the option suddenly vanished, I asked a friend to help me fix it, but now hibernation is just gone. Honestly, since I've never used it anyway, I don't really miss it. And yeah, it works... pretty sure it'd be the same thing, I won't have internet until I plug it back in.
Robert Rodriguez2 said:As for sleep mode, I can't really help with the issues you're having on Windows 8 since I don't even use it. Personally, I have S3 set up in my BIOS—don't remember the specifics right now—but whenever I hit sleep, I can wake the PC back up with any key or just by moving the mouse.
I'm actually on 7, not 8. Mine wakes up the second I tap the spacebar or touch the mouse... anything, really. But my Wi-Fi keeps cutting out, so I have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. It’s not a huge deal, but it’s annoying, and I’d love a simple fix if one exists. I have zero clue what my BIOS settings are... but it used to work fine before it started acting up. This all started after a buddy of mine fixed my sleep settings (they had disappeared). He didn't mess with the BIOS or anything, he just found some drivers on Twitter... then sleep started working again.
Since this newer adapter is more recent, it should work on Windows 8. Most of them are plug and play, so the OS likely has the driver ready. You just plug it in, let the system do its thing, and you're good to go.
Gotcha, thanks. Hopefully it works on 7 too.
Regarding how it handles waking from sleep, I honestly don't know. I couldn't find anything online, and since I don't use it, I haven't dealt with it.
Maybe someone else here knows.
Maybe. Or maybe not. If I end up buying it, I'll let you guys know how it goes.😁
I read this and that too, but nothing worked. If getting a new USB drive would fix it, that might be worth it, but what do you guys think? My current one is like 10 years old anyway, so I'm not exactly itching to drop cash $33on a new one.
Back again... something weird happened (honestly, I have no clue how or why, I didn't even touch anything) where my sleep option just vanished. Like, the setting I had where the computer sleeps after half an hour suddenly stopped working, and the fan just kept spinning. A friend stepped in and installed some drivers, so it's sleeping again, but now every single time it wakes up from sleep, my internet is dead until I unplug and replug the USB adapter. With this thing, there were issues even after a clean install of macOS, saying the device was outdated or missing drivers, though he did manage to get it running... but now it's acting up again. The adapter is a Motorola USB. Unfortunately, I didn't ask for advice back then, so I didn't request they install a network card when the PC was being upgraded recently, and since it's a private setup, I'm not allowed to open it up myself. So now I'm wondering if this USB adapter would be a solid solution—better than what I've got—until the warranty runs out, at which point I can just install a PCI card if I really need to. Would things be smoother with this, so I don't have to constantly plug and unplug stuff every time it wakes up? I'm using an Sx763 router, and I'm about 15 feet away in a straight line. If it matters, my speeds are roughly 5–10 Mbit/s download and 320–640 kbit/s upload. And... is it really just plug-and-play, or is there extra setup involved that might cause it to glitch out?
Yeah, I saw that... it’s pretty straightforward, but people still find ways to mess it up... so they end up stuck. Whatever. If it works for now, I'm happy enough with it. 🙂 It’s always better to take my time than to rush in, break something, and have to call for backup.
Since I'm not doing this solo, I'll just leave things as they are for now... I'll manually move my photos or whatever else matters into a folder on my Western Digital, and once my buddy gets his PC back up and running, maybe I'll show him this if it seems worth it. (I'll take a look myself, but honestly, I'm too scared of breaking something) Ideally, everything I download and save—like photos and stuff—would just automatically land on my Western Digital, but that requires some effort, so I'll just keep moving files wherever I want manually. I'm trying to install Need for Speed onto my Western Digital, but it's just not working. 😢
Edit: I checked out the instructions from that link, and it actually looks pretty straightforward (even though I'm not even at my computer right now, and my English isn't great), but I see people in the comments having issues where it doesn't work right after. So, I'm not touching a thing. Maybe I'll tackle it another time when I actually feel like setting it up.
Michael Jackson10 said:What's up? Did they seriously start the upgrade already? Did someone just go big? Or what? It all started out pretty innocently: "hey, let me patch up this old rig for a few bucks." Now? I'm deep in it—buying cables, surge protectors, an SSD... you know how it goes. Just kidding...
Honestly, you can pick whatever you want, but there’s really no point in going anything smaller than 128GB given how prices are right now. As for the brand? It’s kind of a "to each their own" situation. Let's be real—about 70% of what you see on the market uses the exact same controller and memory anyway.
Just wanted to flex a little... finally upgraded to 2x4 DDR3 and an SSD. Feeling good. 😁
Michael Jackson10 said:Once you finally swap in that new SSD, you're basically doing a fresh install of macOS anyway, regardless of which version you pick. Honestly, it might be smart to just unplug your old Western Digital drive during the process? That way you don't end up with some annoying dual boot menu since you aren't planning on touching those old files ever again, right? You’re gonna need to reinstall all those programs on that SSD—anything you're currently using or just want back on there for later. Simple enough, right? There’s also a disk cloning option out there, but it'd probably just try to push a different version of Windows anyway, so that’s a non-starter. Once you finally get that SSD set up, you could just boot the whole system from there. That way, you can wipe everything related to those old Windows installs and programs off the old drive completely. Wouldn't that be much cleaner? So, I've decided to turn my hard drive into nothing but a data warehouse. Why bother with anything else?
It’s the same story... I honestly thought all my programs would be sitting on that old Western Digital drive. I figured if anything ever went sideways with my macOS, my apps would still be safe and sound on the Western Digital, you know? Makes sense... I guess you wouldn't even really feel the speed of that SSD if things weren't set up right. But hey, quick question: does everything have to live on the SSD, or can I just keep some stuff on my old Western Digital? I honestly expected it... don't even ask me why. 😁 So, my photos and docs stay on the old drive... right? And I can just set everything up so stuff saves automatically to my Western Digital while keeping my OS strictly on the SSD. It’s not quite that simple, though. But hey, I can always just manually move whatever I want over to the Western Digital. Not exactly a huge deal, is it? Quick question... if I want to install a new program, does it have to go straight to the SSD, or can I move it over to my Western Digital? I don't want to touch anything currently on the SSD, obviously. I'm just thinking it might be smarter not to clog up the SSD with stuff—like certain apps or games—that I barely even use. What do you guys think?
Think about it this way: running an SSD alongside a standard Western Digital drive means you're dealing with two totally separate physical units. If one bites the dust, it doesn't drag the other one down with it. Say your SSD fails—your Western Digital stays perfectly fine. Makes sense, right?
That's why I figured I'd just keep all my programs on the Western Digital and leave the macOS for the SSD. Just in case... you know, if I ever actually need to reinstall the OS.
Timothy Kim60 said:Not really. You could clone your macOS and all your apps from the Western Digital over to the SSD, or just do a fresh install on it—takes no time at all. But once you go that route...
I thought I wouldn't pull the trigger until next fall, but here we are... now I've got dual storage, 64-bit macOS, and an SSD. 🙂
Thanks again to everyone who hung out in this little corner and helped me out with their advice. 🙏
So I started a thread... once I write something, I'll bump it up so people who actually want to read it don't miss it. Not the right time right now. 😁 I'm not saying I won't post in other threads just because my posts feel like off-topic chatter—they aren't—but fine, I can move some stuff over here so I don't clutter everything up and annoy everyone. (Which is a fair point... you can just skip what you don't want to read, but hey... no big deal if I separate things to avoid "polluting" strictly themed threads)
🙂 🙂
All the best, Reddit
I made a post because a user messaged me, and I thought it was a decent idea since everyone keeps attacking me... that way, only the people interested would read it.
Angelina Jolie said:Anyway, Kourtney Kardashian, what if you started a thread like "Kourtney Kardashian and Dogs," where you could post all your questions and thoughts, and then whoever feels like it can reply? It would help avoid off-topic chatter in every single thread, especially since you tend to ask the same things everywhere. I'd really love it if you took the suggestion. 🙂
Well, I took the advice with good intentions... and ended up with an extra 35 points.
Quote: Didi said:Rachel Jones8, get it together. The world doesn't revolve around you.
Why all this rudeness and attitude? Someone posts about links, but there aren't any links. And I'm the one who needs to "get it together"... like I need to realize the world doesn't revolve around me? Honestly, you guys are overreacting in a really nasty way. I don't read every single thread, so how am I supposed to know who moved what where or what a post is even referring to?
Floki replied to my post in the thread about the CM. Since the posts were moved here later, you shouldn't be confused if you just kept track of the time.
Keep track of the time? What does that even mean? Like, if I'm not reading every thread and following every single move, and I can't tell why a post suddenly appeared or what it's talking about (since there's no quote, no context, and no note saying it was moved), I'm not allowed to ask what the post is about? It mentions links, but there are zero links.
Quote:
You're getting annoying, and I'm going to request you be removed from this subforum. Not tonight, but I'll definitely find the time tomorrow. Fine, go ahead and request it... ...if I'm just asking the author what they meant, and if that's actually a valid reason for someone in charge to act, then sure... (if that makes you happy, I sincerely hope you're nicer in real life than you are here.)
All the best, Reddit
I asked a question regarding this post— 9359—where someone is commenting on a link. The first post above that actually contains a link is mine— ( 9355 ). Since the comment didn't make sense to me, I just asked a question— post br. 9369 this was my response:
Didi said:Rachel Jones8, get it together. The world doesn't revolve around you. Floki replied to my post in the thread about CM. Since the posts were moved here, you shouldn't be confused if you just kept an eye on the clock. You're becoming annoying and I'm going to request you be removed from this subforum. Not tonight, but I'll definitely find the time tomorrow.
Since I wasn't reading any other threads—I just saw a comment regarding a link right here (and the first one above was mine; there weren't any other links in the posts)—I felt these accusations and comments were totally baseless and unfair. So, I responded in post no. 9372, and now I’ve been penalized for "trolling" with 35 points. Why is trolling the label given to someone responding to rude, nonsensical accusations? Why am I allowed to be targeted with stuff like "get it together," "the world doesn't revolve around you," "watch the clock," or "you're being annoying and I'm calling for your removal," yet I can't defend myself against that without it being labeled as trolling? I was just asking for clarification from the person who commented on the link (9359)... because I thought they were commenting on *my* link, seeing as there was nothing but my post (no. 9355) and their post (no. 9359) between us. In response, I got this nasty attack from user Didi, which happened immediately after my post and was completely unprovoked and groundless. If someone had used a normal tone and explained that the comment had nothing to do with my link, but was actually about a link from another thread (which I hadn't been following), I wouldn't have felt the need to react to such a rude attitude. At the end of the day, this isn't trolling; it's just trying to defend myself against malicious attacks and accusations. Look, I know the world doesn't revolve around me, but is it really okay for someone to attack or threaten me—telling me to "get it together," accusing me of "not watching the clock," or threatening to have me kicked off the subforum—just because I asked a question about a post? It seems like it works, too... all because I asked a question and then stood up to those rude accusations.
I'm not appealing the penalty, not because I think it's fair, but because I know it's pointless. But I am asking if anyone (not a moderator, but someone objective) can explain where the "trolling" happened that earned me this strike? And is it really okay that I ask a simple question because a comment isn't clear, only to be met with accusations and a penalty? All because I didn't realize a link had been posted in a different thread and the comment was referring to that instead of my link from three posts ago? I'm asking... politely and respectfully. Instead of a civil answer, I get attacked and penalized. I just want to know what I did wrong. Am I supposed to follow every single thread on the subforum and know about links posted elsewhere just so I can understand comments in the thread I'm actually reading? Was I being "rude" because I didn't see them since I wasn't even looking at those other threads? I don't think it's my job to "watch the clock" and track every single conversation across the site just to know which link a comment is talking about. Being accused of something nonsensical just because I asked a question about a link I thought was mine... it's ridiculous. If you're just trolling, my bad.
Since I had some issues with the USB adapter (couldn't find any drivers to download), I thought I was gonna have to go out and buy a whole new wireless USB stick...but it actually worked in the end. (Of course, a buddy came over to help, and I didn't even realize I needed him) So now I'm looking into it... and I see there are PCIe cards too. Makes me wonder, which one is actually better? Which USB stick or card should I get? Which brand is top-tier... without being crazy expensive, but still an upgrade from this old Motorola like this) Maybe around $15? (I don't think I'll grab one right now since it's working... but just so I know for later... what should I look for, what's the best pick) Router is an Sx763 ( this ) Internet speed is 10 Mbit/s OS - Windows 7 64bit Distance is about 12-15 feet. If I went with a card, I'd probably need to get it through Best Buy so they can set it all up for me. But I can just plug in a USB stick myself, right? 😁
Justin Rogers59 said:Sorry for jumping in here, but I wanted to ask Robert Rodriguez2 how to "clone" Windows from one Western Digital to another because my current drive is pretty much on its last legs.
You talking to me? I'm not the original poster. 🙂 Everyone's welcome here—the more questions we ask, the more it helps us newbies.
What about something like this, staying within that same budget? Take this one for example—DDR3 4GB (1x4GB) Kingston, 1866MHz, CL10, HyperX Fury, HX318C10F The shop said they’d throw in the installation for free since I'm buying their parts... (maybe that's just while the warranty is active, but hey, I'll take it)
So... are these two sticks good for dual-channel mode, or is adding just one more enough? I'm pretty sure an SSD is still on my wishlist, but quick question... if I grab one, is it a hassle to move Windows over to it?
Michael Jackson10 said:Dual channel mode isn't what's causing this mess. Honestly, using Win32 with more than 3 GB of RAM just doesn't make sense regardless of how you set things up. You could fix this right now by doing a clean install of Windows—just grab the 64-bit version so you can actually use what you've got. Or, you could just wait until you decide on a RAM upgrade, though there's no guarantee on that yet, and you might end up breaking the system even further in the meantime. Maybe call over the neighbor's kid to help out? Get those pancakes cooking fast...
Well, it happened—reinstalled everything, and now I'm running 64-bit Windows, so I have a question. The board is an Asrock FM2A88M EXTREME4+ link The memory is Kingston RAM 4GB, DDR3, 1600MHz HX link
Can I add another stick just like this to get to 2x4GB, or does it have to be an exact match?