Posts by Emily Castillo4

Just zoom in on the layer and you should be fine. You can't really get anything precise when you're looking at such a tiny preview.

Jason Chavez32 said:filter 🙄

A very precise answer 😁
You know damn well you can't pull that off without stripping away part of the bass frequency spectrum...
But whatever—no need for more commentary or playing CSI detective here.

Jason Chavez32 said:You can strip everything away except the bass—and do it right. Honestly, those are the simplest tricks in the book... just not enough emphasis on the low end. Just leave the bass alone....

Alright, listen up—since you newbies clearly have no clue... let me show you how this actually works. 🤷

fadedmoose49 said:I need some kind of simple software that lets me take an original track and lower the volume or strip out everything except maybe the bass—so that would be the only thing playing. If anyone has software recs or even just a quick guide, I'd appreciate it. 😁

If you're looking for perfect isolation, forget it.
But if you just want to "accentuate" a specific instrument, it's somewhat doable. Like Jason Chavez32 mentioned, bass is the easiest. Trying to isolate guitars, piano, or drums... that's a much harder climb...

If I'm following you correctly—and I think I am—that software doesn't even exist.

Taylor Brooks3 said:How do I fix dropped frames? It seems to happen constantly whenever I'm transferring video—anyone know a way to solve this?

Something isn't adding up here. Most likely, you're looking at a faulty TV tuner card. It could also be a cheap cable or even a subpar Betamax player.
If you're getting dropped frames during capture, that explains the stuttering footage you were complaining about earlier.

Just download the software I suggested and give it a shot.

I wasn't quite sure if you meant needing the image right after the capture is done, or once you've finished rendering before burning it to a DVD.

In Adobe, I used to set my capture settings to use the MPEG codec. It uses nearly half the CPU power compared to anything else—which is huge if you're working with a slower processor. (Not that that should be an issue for your rig.) I was getting great results with it.
For the final render in Adobe, make sure to check "Use progressive encoding" and "Always re-encode entire movie." You'll find those under Setup > make disc, just below the video quality selection.

Since I've switched over to using Final Cut Pro now (honestly, I don't get why everyone raves about it 👍), I've noticed it doesn't actually have an option for capturing from analog sources. While searching online, I stumbled upon uiVCR and I'm actually really happy with how the captures turn out. Give it a shot and see for yourself. I’m still sticking with the MPEG codec and everything is running smooth as silk.

One more thing—defragment your hard drive. That can cause some real headaches during this process.

Adobe Acrobat

Comparing Pinnacle to Premiere is like comparing MS Paint to Photoshop.

With Pinnacle, you can just jump right in and start working immediately. It isn't exactly "smart" software—don't expect any bells and whistles—but it gets the job done.
Even handling two audio tracks is a struggle... let alone trying to sync up four different video feeds.

Benjamin King2 said:There’s gotta be an option somewhere—just dig through the help files for split screen. If that clunky old Windows Movie Maker can pull it off, then Pinnacle definitely should have it too.

You honestly can't believe 🤷
Pinnacle doesn't have that feature. 👎

Duplicate the base layer—select the area you want to work on—then go to Filter and select Liquify.
A new window will pop up with all your tools at hand.

To get that enhanced cleavage look, grab the Bloatware tool (B), set your brush size, and just hold it down.
Just be careful not to break them...😬

I'm running CS2.
The print quality is perfectly fine. It lacks that certain luster compared to the originals—not that it could ever be identical, obviously.

You can prep an image for a DVD in just about any software. It doesn't have to be Photoshop. As long as you create a template to load into your printing program, you're good.

In Photoshop, just start a new document, duplicate the background layer, and draw two concentric circles within it (the outer and inner edges of the disc). They’re just there to help you align your other layers. After that, it’s all down to skill and creativity. Once you're done, hide that duplicated layer so it's not visible, select Flatten, and save it as a JPG—that becomes your template for the DVD printing software. Those programs are usually pretty basic; they just walk you through everything with a wizard until you get the final result.

Now, if you have any more questions... I'll be charging extra for those. 😬

Yeah, I just set up a layer in Photoshop with the dimensions of a CD. It helps keep everything oriented correctly—I just turn it off once I'm finished.
When you actually go to print onto a CD or DVD, you use that specific little utility software that comes with the printer. You just import the image you made in Photoshop into that app.

urbanpuma5 said:Alright, fine—just tell me which software you're actually using to design those DVD labels... you know, where you can put one image on one half and a completely different one on the other side.

I actually got this tiny little utility bundled with Pixar. I’ve messed around with a few others—some "DVD Labeler" thing, I can't even remember the names. Even Nero has some built-in tools for that kind of thing.
Honestly, I wasn't impressed; they all feel pretty amateurish. They're fine if you just need something quick—maybe a background image, the title, a tracklist... whatever. 😎

I just work in Photoshop and then import the finished JPG into the printing software.

Canon, I'm running a Pixma 4200 (the one shown in the photo)
The newer version is probably the 4300, if I recall correctly...

I think Epson has some models out there too.

Edward Foster23 said:Everyone should just do whatever works best for them—or whatever they can actually afford.

Well obviously, it all depends on what you're using the DVDs for in the first place. For some people, buying a printer just doesn't make sense. But if you need to churn out a large batch of printed media, then yeah, it pays off. Let's look at the math—getting a DVD printed at a local print shop costs about $3.25 per disc. If you do it yourself, the cost of the blank DVD plus the ink is roughly $1.75 per disc. Basically, if you're printing around 150 discs, you might as well just buy the printer. At the end of the day, everyone's math is different depending on their specific needs.

urbanpuma5 said:Emily Castillo4, what's the actual process for printable DVDs?

The printer has a tray where you load the printable media. The process is exactly the same as standard printing.

check this out

Edward Foster23 said:I’ve been using labels for years because I have an older printer model that doesn't support direct printing onto CDs or DVDs. Up until now, I haven't run into any playback issues caused by the labels itself.

Well, everyone's experience is different. It obviously depends on which device you're playing the CD/DVD in and what's actually burned on it. On a PC, things usually work fine. Most of my experience comes from burning video DVDs—maybe audio CDs are more forgiving.😕
Go ahead, pop it into a DVD player, try a disc that sat out in a humid room, or test some old media that's already been labeled...
In my opinion, spending $120 on a new printer just to deal with subpar results isn't worth the hassle.

Print onto a printable DVD.

urbanpuma5 said:Alright, once all that is printed, how do you actually get it onto a CD or DVD? What do I use? Do I just feed some adhesive paper directly into the printer or what?

There are perforated sticker sheets designed specifically for this. You print right on them. There’s even a little jig to help center the label perfectly on the DVD.
It isn't pricey, but honestly, it's a losing battle... labels can cause all sorts of playback issues with DVDs.

If you're hell-bent on giving your DVDs some "makeup" and don't mind the headaches—go ahead and use those DVDivko stickers. And that's not all. If you buy a sticker set as a gift, they throw in a 25-piece knife set for every occasion. So, if you're pissed because you can't watch your newly burned movie due to a universal label issue, at least you'll have plenty of knives to work with.😬

Jesse Johnson4 said:Sandra Hayes2, you can actually customize the dimensions you want to print in Avery by going to File > Select paper > New. The only real headache with this software is that it won't let you set an outer edge larger than 118 mm—even though a standard DVD is actually 119 mm. There are workarounds for that out there on various forums... I haven't personally messed with it because it seems like too much hassle, and honestly, that tiny white border doesn't really bother me.

I can set the outer size to 119.

So, here is how you handle printing for a full DVD

Avery > File > Select paper > New > Outer size 119 / Inner size 22

Or, to put it more simply