My current laptop is basically a paperweight when it comes to gaming, so I’m trying to figure out how much I should realistically set aside for a decent gaming PC. My main goal is playing titles like World of Warcraft (with a heavy emphasis on 😁) while maintaining a solid frame rate—ideally hitting at least 40+ FPS even during the heavy lifting. I'm looking to run things on High settings, though I don't need everything cranked up to Ultra. Right now, jumping into a 25-man raid in WoW is an absolute massacre on this machine; even with everything set to the lowest possible settings, I'm struggling through about 5 FPS. It feels more like a slideshow than a game. I want to be able to handle those intense environments with at least 40 FPS without having to turn every single detail down just so I can actually see what's happening around me 😁. Would $1333 be a reasonable budget for a build that can handle WoW and newer games on relatively high settings, or am I looking at needing to invest a bit more?
Intel Core i3-4130 (3.40GHz,512KB,3MB,54 W,1150) Box, Intel hd Graphics ASRock B85M Motherboard 8GB DDR3 1600MHz (2x4) XPG v1 kit AD Sapphire Radeon R7 260 x OC Graphic card 2 GB DDR5, DVI, DP, HDMI LG GH24NS sat Bulk crn 24 x 1 Toshiba DT01ACA050 500GB 3.5'' XFX Pro Series CoreEdition 80 450 w pas, XFX-P1-450S-X2B9 Zalman micro tower case black, ZAL-ZM-T2 plus total
$1238 Centro.hr (Free builder tool)
P.S. $1333 for what you're looking for, this is more than enough 🙂
swiftpilot said:Here’s the AMD version—I’ve gone ahead and put everything together in this build for you so you don't have to worry about a thing. You're getting one of the beefiest coolers on the market right now, paired with an absolute beast of a motherboard that lets you overclock to the moon whenever you feel like it. Everything is housed in a high-quality, spacious, and well-ventilated case, and honestly, the GPU is just insane. 😉
1 x AMD FX-Series X8 8320 AM3 box 1 x Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3 Sck 1 x Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3 Sck. AM3+, USB3.0, ATX 1 x Patriot Viper3 Blue Sapphire 1600Mhz,8GB (2x4GB) 1 x MSI GeForce GTX770 OC TF, 2GB DDR5 1 x Caviar Blue 1 x Fortron, 1TB, 7200rpm 1 x Fortron Raider S 550W, 80+ SILVER 1 x Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Intel/AMD 1 x Zalman mid tower case black(Z12 plus)
Total-$2225 Free assembly and shipping from futur IT
It’s not a bad setup, really—though I do have a little nagging doubt about that power supply. Since you went with the 8320 processor, which is quite the power hog (especially if you decide to start overclocking), I'm a bit worried about the headroom. If only it were a 550W unit with an 80+ Gold rating, or maybe even a 600W 80+ Bronze model, I'd feel much better about it.
lonecyclist11 said:@ukiy thanks so much 😉 Finally—someone who actually answers the question instead of just picking a fight. Regarding all that chatter: look, node 304 isn't some tiny little micro-case, it really isn't. But I chose it because it fits perfectly inside my printer cabinet—that was the goal. And honestly, why is everyone here so incredibly grumpy? It feels like half the people here just want to tear others down. Instead of pooling your collective knowledge to actually help people out (and I don't mean myself specifically!), you all just bicker over whether someone prefers apples or oranges. I get it, though—it’s tough when people get aggressive in the comments; I actually got banned from my old account because I got caught up in an argument once, too. Now, I basically keep my forum activity to a bare minimum because there's just way too much negativity and judgment here... And yeah, sure, I know I could have saved some cash by building in a mid-tower, but I went with ITX for one very specific reason. As for the "temperatures are going to kill you once you start overclocking" crowd—what temperatures? What overclocking? Did I not make it clear enough that I'm not looking for a high-performance monster? This case doesn't have any cooling issues at all. None. Seriously, go read some actual reviews before you try to lecture me when you haven't even seen the thing in person. Anyway, I got my answer, and I appreciate it. No more fighting.
Looking at this setup right now, honestly—he could easily squeeze in a GTX 770 and a 120GB SSD. If you ask me, he’d be much better off ditching that K-series processor and that pricey Z87 motherboard; he'll feel a massive boost from an SSD and a beefier graphics card way more than he ever would from just overclocking the CPU...
Intel Core i5 4570 Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H motherboard, 1150, iB85, D3, S3, U3, DVI, mA 8GB DDR3 1600MHz (2x4) XPG v1 kit AD MSI GeForce GTX770 OC TF graphics card, 2GB DDR5 WD Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 3 WD10EZEX Hard Drive Kingston 120GB SSD, SSDNow V300 SATA 3 SV300S37A/120G Fortron Aurum S PSU 600W, 80+ GOLD power supply Zalman mid tower case black, ZAL-Z3 PLUS
$2236 Amazon.com (Components in stock + free assembly)
To kind of thing never really crossed my mind before—honestly, I used to be pretty indifferent about it—but thanks to you guys, I’ve started paying much closer attention to component availability. In the past, I felt like I was getting roasted for these tiny, trivial details, with everyone acting like my builds were absolute disasters just because of minor things. Now that I am actually being careful, I noticed you're still pointing them out, but hey, you did admit you were mistaken once, so I appreciate the honesty 🙂
As for that MSI model R9 280 x, I actually had no idea about that specific issue. All I'd heard was that some folks ran into trouble where games wouldn't properly recognize the full 3GB of VRAM. I'll definitely keep an eye out for that from now on, so thanks for the heads-up 😘
Michael Jackson10 said:Damn these cases—what is wrong with the youth today? Back in my day, we actually cared about scale...
It’s almost like you’re all Hobbits—you don't have enough room in your houses for a standard mid-tower, so instead, you spend all your time scouring price lists for high-end components packed into the smallest possible footprint... then, you turn around and dig through those same price lists trying to engineer some way to cool it all down without making enough noise to wake the neighbors... and in the process, you completely miss the point: people, just use the computers you spent a fortune on! Don't waste all your energy constantly rearranging boxes and arguing over who can build the most compact rig.
🙂 Great post. Honestly, I felt the exact same way when I first joined this forum, but I quickly realized that isn't how things work here. It seems the main goal is just constant one-upmanship and seeing who can be "more right"—even when the evidence is thin as air—because people are constantly picking fights over nothing. To me, it feels incredibly arrogant and calculated. I actually had to shift my own "good" side over to the "bad" side just to cope; now I find myself being intentionally blunt and unapologetic. Why should I bother being fair or respectful to others when nobody shows any respect back and everyone is just looking for an excuse to stomp you down? 🙂
graniteharbor85 said:Everyone's just nodding along here—nobody’s actually asking any real questions. 👍
Grace Peterson17
Maybe be a little more careful with those recommendations... 😉
The Z3+ isn't even available, the RAM is too tall, there's no decent heatsink for overclocking (which means significantly higher temps), and that R9 280 x model is pretty subpar—you'll run into high temperatures and VRM issues, plus it's way louder than other options.
Michelle Martinez6
Are you paying cash or using a credit card? If you're going the card route, let us know where you're shopping, which card you're using, and how many installments you're looking at.
Do you actually plan on overclocking the CPU and GPU?
What kind of games are you planning to play?
Do you already have a case and an optical drive? If so, tell us what they are—and for the drive (DVD/CD reader), double-check if it's SATA or PATA.
What's your monitor resolution? Is this build strictly for gaming and basic stuff like watching movies or browsing the web?
Thinking about adding an SSD later on?
🙂 Tell me you're joking, please... The Z3 is definitely available for order. Sure, the RAM has high heatspreaders, but that'll only be an issue if you try to cram in some absolutely massive air cooler—and even then, you could just swap them out for ADAT RAM for the same price, so I don't see the problem. And how on earth can you claim the MSI R9 280 x is a bad model? Seriously, what would you even consider a "good" model then?
You might want to double-check your facts before trying to correct everyone else when things don't quite add up.
John Nguyen8 said:Decko, just take a moment to actually read what I wrote before you jump in with a comment... I am under no illusion that the Node 304 is the absolute smallest ITX case out there... And I really won't even bother addressing that comparison to mATX. 🙄 So, you've "felt" it, have you? 😂
Well, you specifically stated that it was the smallest ITX chassis capable of housing "high-end" components—and that’s exactly where I have to disagree. I pointed out two specific examples of extremely compact mITX cases (which are likely among the smallest ever made) that can fit high-end parts, and—with a little bit of tinkering—even accommodate custom water cooling loops for both the CPU and GPU... I'm really not sure where the disconnect is here, man. 🙂
Does it really have to be ADM? Amazon is just as great of a shop...
Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4 (3.40GHz,1MB,6MB,84 W,1150) Box MSI Z87-G43_GAMING Z87 (S1150, DDR3, USB3.0,USB2.0 Kingston HX Beast.,D3,1600MHz, 8GB(2x4) KHX16C9T2/8X MSI R9 280 x 3GB, DVI, HDMI, mDP WD Caviar Blue 1 x 1TB SATA 3 WD10EZEX Fortron Aurum S PSU 500W,80+ GOLD Zalman mid tower case black, ZAL-Z3 plus
$2169 Amazon.com (Components ready to go and they'll even assemble it for free)
If you look at this setup realistically, it’s essentially the same as the one from ADM—it actually packs a significantly stronger graphics card. If you ask me—and I mean this sincerely—I wouldn't opt for the Intel Core i5-4670K option; if we could shave some money off there, we could easily squeeze in an SSD, or maybe even upgrade to a slightly nicer case...
Graphics cards, up to 310mm in length, when 2 HDD slots (1 HDD hanging bracket total) are removed (Graphics cards longer than 170 mm will conflict with PSUs longer than 160mm)
Gainward:
Product Size : 247mm x 112mm
So, you'd have to ditch one HDD cage if your card is over 170mm, and then there's the PSU size to worry about. Plus, there are those newer, shorter card versions designed specifically for cases like this...
BTW, is this just part of the hype surrounding those uITX builds we see in all the tech magazines lately? You pick out this fancy case that ends up limiting you in every single way. You're forced to hunt down ITX motherboards—which are a pain to find here in the States—and you make a hundred compromises just to end up with a build that isn't even that much smaller. It's a lot of money and stress just for a slight visual difference, right?
The way I see it: if you buy parts from the outside in—meaning you pick the case based on looks first—you might realize too late how little room you actually have for a GPU. Unless you already have the whole blueprint mapped out in your head, you're asking for trouble...
swiftpilot: Look, we don’t need to get into a debate about where my PC building knowledge comes from—honestly, it’s totally irrelevant. And frankly, it doesn't matter much where yours comes from either; you can pick things up through Google, hands-on experience, or—as you put it—scouring forums. But there is a massive difference between verified, factual information and just having an opinion. The only reason I got worked up with you was because you told him right out of the gate that there's no point in building these mITX builds and that he should just go buy an Xbox instead, you know? That’s your personal take, but we aren't here to push our own tastes; we're here to help. And please, leave my username out of this—that's just an inside joke 😁
lonecyclist11: I don't know what your problem is, but it's pretty obvious you aren't looking for help. I had absolutely no intention of insulting you; I was genuinely trying to be helpful...
John Nguyen8: Man, you are truly something else. I've actually seen and handled that case in person, and I can tell you firsthand that it's easily comparable in size to mATX cases. And no, it isn't "the smallest" case capable of housing high-end components—if you want to talk about those, look at the EVGA Hadron Air or the Cubitek Mini Cube... but hey, that's just my two cents
swiftpilot: I agree with you that ATX or mATX is generally the better way to go, but you have to see that the guy clearly prefers mITX and that compact form factor
I’m reading this and honestly, I can't believe it—PC performance almost never depends on the form factor (whether it's ATX, mATX, or mITX), but rather on the actual components tucked inside the machine. The only real drawback to mITX is the limited RAM capacity—capped at 16GB—but since he isn't doing any heavy-duty video editing, that won't even matter for his needs. And, of course, you lose the ability to run Crossfire or SLI. Now, I'll admit, sticking with a standard ATX tower would definitely make life easier by giving the components more breathing room, but hey, it's his choice. There's really no need to jump down his throat right out of the gate; if you don't have something smart or actually helpful to contribute, maybe just stay quiet!
As for your "Steam Box" comparison, some of those points just don't hold up. That Fractal Design case you posted is, in my opinion, the worst example of an mITX build because the chassis itself is just massive and overpriced. For that kind of money, you could pick up some seriously high-end ATX cases. If you want decent mITX options, you should look at brands like Lian Li or Cubitek (they aren't easily found here in the States, but you can find great stuff online at reasonable prices). Also, I don't quite get the obsession with the GTX 760. It’s a solid card, sure, but for slightly $200 less, you can snag an R9 270X which performs almost identically to the 760...
P.S. If you're already committed to buying that bulky, overpriced Fractal Design bucket, don't sweat the components—everything will fit in there without any trouble at all.
Honestly, your best bet is just to give the store a quick call and ask them directly—I highly doubt anyone here on Reddit is going to be able to give you a 100% certain answer...
P.S. Which keyboard are we actually talking about, and what’s the story behind why you want to return it?
ruggedraven10 said:I’m going to make things a little complicated here—if you don't mind! :P I just need someone to confirm a few details regarding my motherboard, CPU, and power supply.
I've got two 8800 GTS cards sitting around collecting dust for years now, so I was thinking about putting together a secondary PC just for kicks—you know, something for when the guys come over for some local LAN gaming sessions.
Now, obviously, I'm not looking to break the bank... but I am willing to spend a bit if it makes sense.
First off, does the brand of the graphics cards actually matter for SLI? The specs should be identical, but one is an Albatron card and the other is from Gigabyte. From what I understand, that shouldn't be an issue, right?
Anyway.
-I have an old, large Chieftec GX-01B case lying around; everything should fit in there nicely. -For RAM, I have 8GB of DDR3. -Graphics: 2x 8800 GTS 640MB.
So, here's the deal: -Power supply: An older, functional Chieftec 550W from 2008. It worked fine for maybe 3 or 4 years before I pulled it out. Would that be enough? Theoretically, I'd assume 550W should be able to handle those two cards?
And then I still need a CPU and a motherboard. The PC would be strictly for gaming, of course. Do you think I could find a decent AMD 4x processor and a matching motherboard for somewhere in the $150–$200 range?
Any recommendations? The main thing is that the board needs to support >>SLI Thanks!
1.) The brand doesn't matter at all—as long as they are the exact same model, like an 8800 GTS paired with another 8800 GTS. Though, these days, things are changing so fast that some setups can even run Crossfire and SLI on the same board...
2.) If you're planning on playing anything modern, you aren't going to be happy with an 8800 GTS. Like the guys mentioned, maybe try selling those cards, toss in a little extra cash, and grab something like an AMD Radeon HD 7770 or an AMD Radeon R7 260x. They usually run around $80–$300 which would be your absolute best bang for your buck...
3.) If you do go through with SLI using the 8800 GTS cards, you really need to make sure you have a beefy, high-quality power supply, ensure your CPU won't cause a massive bottleneck, and—obviously—make sure your motherboard actually supports SLI.
Ryan Wilson7 said:Is there actually a significant performance gap between the 1155 and 1150 sockets? To be honest, my friends are pushing me toward the Intel Core i5-3570 because they claim Ivy runs much cooler than Haswell, even though Ivy is about a year and a half older... I’m trying to figure out if that distinction actually matters in practice. I really don't want to sink a ton of cash into a CPU and motherboard if the payoff is negligible. I’d much rather shell out an extra 400-$167 for a Haswell setup if it truly offers a superior experience... If you know what I mean. My main focus here is gaming at 1080p resolution, paired with a GTX 770.
Look, Haswell will pull maybe 10 Watts more than Ivy, but honestly, the performance difference is pretty negligible. If you can snag Haswell for maybe 50-$33 more, then go for it—but if it's priced higher than that, just run away. The price-to-performance ratio just isn't there. Architecturally speaking, Haswell isn't some massive leap over Ivy, so you aren't going to see any "super duper extra" benefits from making the jump. Now, when Skylake rolls out in a year or two, *that* will be a legitimate step forward, but we're talking about the distant future there...
Ethan Kern4 said:Thanks everyone, you guys were a huge help! I've grabbed everything except for the GPU.
I’m stuck between the EVGA Radeon and the PowerColor Radeon, 2GB GDDR5, Newegg version.
Best Buy has the EVGA one on sale, but it’s just the 900MHz Core version (boosted to 955MHz) in Gaming mode, or the 900MHz Core (boosted to 925MHz) in Silent mode. Meanwhile, the PowerColor is sitting at 1020 MHz.
Honestly, you might be better off going with the EVGA—it's generally considered more "superior" compared to the PowerColor because of the cooling setup and all that. If you can swing it, grab the higher-end version, though $33 I know it tends to be pricier in certain shops. It might be worth checking a few other retailers to see if they have it in stock; if you find a decent price, don't overthink it—just grab it immediately...
I really need some feedback, advice, or even just some harsh criticism on this build. I went with an AM4 base because I want room to upgrade later, plus I was eyeing that A10 7850k for down the road.
Here’s the breakdown:
Gigabyte G1.SNIPER A88X,AM4,A88X,D3,S3,USB 3.0,DVI,A Intel Pentium Gold Cooler Master Hyper 212 PowerColor Radeon R9 270X Dual-X OC, 2GB GDDR5, Newegg Corsair Vengeance DDR3 8GB 2400MHz (2x4) Crucial MX500 120GB Western Digital Black 1TB SATA 3, 64 MB, 7.200 rpm Corsair RM series, 520W Cooler Master mid tower case black, Z11
This isn't actually bad at all, though you could definitely optimize things significantly by swapping out a few key components and tweaking a couple of details...
Intel Core i5 ASUS ROG Extreme 2X Kingston HiperX B, DDR3 1600MHz, CL9, 4GB (8GB) Seagate Barracuda 1TB, 64MB, SATA III-600 Canon EOS 128GB, 2.5" SATA ASX900S3-128GM-C EVGA GeForce GTX, 2GB GDGD5 Dell Optical Drive 24x GH24NS95 SATA black bulk EVGA SuperNOVA, 550W Noctua NH-U12S CPU Cooler 120mm fan Cooler Master mid tower case black, Z11
$1912 Amazon (Free assembly)
You can easily fit a much stronger Intel Core i5 within your budget. I’ve swapped in a fantastic motherboard if you ever decide to overclock, and honestly, you don't really need 2400 MHz RAM—the prices are higher but the performance gap just isn't there; you'll be perfectly fine with 1600 MHz. For the GPU, I picked an ASUS model because the cooling is superior and it’s nearly silent, yet it costs about the same as that lesser PowerColor version. As for the hard drive, you don't really need the Black series—firstly, you already have an SSD, and secondly, the real-world difference between a Blue and a Black drive isn't massive. Your power supply is high quality, but I upgraded you to an 80+ Gold unit just to be safe. The cooler is solid for overclocking, too. I kept the Cooler Master case style, but switched the model—to be honest, I have a Z11 at home and I'm not exactly thrilled with it; the stock fans are way too loud, the front USB 3.0 ports can be finicky, and the chassis itself is a bit of a pain to work with since the top and front panels are surprisingly stubborn to open.