Posts by fadedlynx6

Tyler Price7 said:aha so they actually have my records... I guess that's why my rate is so high since I had two accidents a few years back and another one last year. so that's that 50% hike
is it smart to just transfer the car title to someone else via a gift deed so I don't get hit with this surcharge?
and does this stuff stay on my record forever, like even if I wait 10 years to put a car in my name and insure it again?

Not sure if you're stuck in their system forever or not, but I know that if you earn a safe driver discount and don't own a car for three years, that discount vanishes. In your case, it’s likely what you think—you're flagged as high-risk in the database, and apparently, those records don't just disappear.

A gift deed without paying taxes only works for direct family, like a father to a son or daughter... moving down the line. You can't just give a car to your dad tax-free. And if you can't avoid the tax anyway, you might as well just fake a sale; there's less paperwork involved than a gift deed.

Tyler Price7 said:Insurance folks told me my deductible is 50%, but I guess I don't really know the actual dollar amount for damage that bad on someone else's car.

Basically, you started with zero discount, then caused an accident. If that's the case, you're looking at a 115% rate—meaning you're paying a 15% premium over the base price.

The surcharge scale works like this:

0%
115%
130%
150%
170%
190%
210%
230%
250%

The discount scale looks like this:

0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
40%
45%
50%

So, if you cause damage before even building up a discount, you hit 115%. A second accident bumps you to 130%. It takes until the third one to hit that 150% mark...

Tyler Price7 said:Man, I'll just report it to the IRS and pay everything off. But since I'm missing that 50% discount, I guess I might have to set it up as a gift, though even then I’d probably owe a 5% tax. I'm not exactly a genius, you know? So does that mean I gotta pay for insurance through $1667 first, and then wait like four years to hit that 100% no-claims bonus? Kind of a bummer, since the damage on my other car was barely anything 😢

So, how much of a deficit are you actually running in total?

James Nelson8 said:If you didn't register the car under your own name for tax purposes... there's actually a chance it might just stay in his name...

But if there's a notarized bill of sale, all that goes out the window; then this guy will just end up owing the IRS interest.

When selling a vehicle, always make sure to $7.25 and get your copy notarized if the registration isn't canceled and transferred on the same day.

Tyler Price7 said:I wonder if there’s any way to dodge that surcharge when you're setting up your first policy? I know they don't do that 50% discount thing anymore, but maybe there's some way to lower the penalty or something... I guess I'm just guessing here

Unfortunately, NO. There's no more maneuvering left...

darkranger232 said:Hey, maybe one of you guys can help me out here:

So, I picked up a used car that’s registered through December, but I haven't officially transferred the title at the DMV yet. We signed the bill of sale last Friday, but I still need to head out to Boise next week to swap the plates and get everything in my name. Well, today, while I was pulling into a parking lot, I accidentally tapped into some guy's brand-new Ford. I dented his bumper, and honestly, the damage looks way more expensive than whatever cash I have sitting in my pocket to settle this right now. We’re heading over to a State Farm office in Silicon Valley to get an estimate and see where we stand.
Here’s what’s actually bugging me, though. Is there any risk for the guy who sold me the car? Since the insurance policy is still technically in his name, could he end up getting hit with a surcharge or a penalty? Also, since this is my very first car and I don't have any prior insurance history, am I going to be stuck paying the full premium when I go to register it in December, or will they tack on a penalty for this accident right away? And if they do, how bad is it going to hurt?

Taylor Swift

He won't lose his discount because you handled the bill of sale through JPMorgan Chase, which serves as proof the car was sold; he'll be fine. What people often mess up is failing to pay those extra $7.25 at JPMorgan Chase to notarize their copy of the contract. Without that notarization, the agreement might not even hold up if things go sideways.

If you haven't had your own car or policy before, things aren't looking great. You'll likely start with a massive surcharge, maybe 50%, so that policy could end up being incredibly expensive.

If you previously held discounts of 50, 40, 20, or 15%, then every accident clips 15% off. So, if you'd built up a 20% discount, you'd drop down to 5% after this... if you had 50%, you'd fall to 35%, and so on...

His policy would actually take the hit if he had just given you power of attorney (which is how most shady dealers operate), and that's why I'd never sell a car via power of attorney to anyone.

Jose White18 said:I feel the exact same way. I’ve never done cash deals. Every single time, I take my car straight to the authorized dealer. Here are the keys and the State Farm paperwork. You guys can deal with the hassle of extra inspections and chasing down money. Just let me know when the job is done.

It isn't worth the struggle of cutting corners just to have an extra $67 in my pocket. It costs far too much time and stress in the end.

My uncle actually chose a certified shop because his car was only a year old and still under factory warranty, but then they backtracked on paying out the claim. He had to cover everything himself, only to end up stuck in a legal dispute two years later.

The people claiming they have great experiences with State Farm are usually just dealing with minor claims under a couple hundred bucks, but once you hit the $1,500 mark, the whole story changes.

granitejackal15 said:The whole thing is a joke because that insurance company isn't actually going to cough up the cash. It’s all run by the same little kid anyway. Personally, I’m sticking with State Farm—I know people there, I know how their adjusters operate, it's all transparent. That's the only way you get anything done in America.☕

It’s true they don't have it... but personally, my experience with State Farm has been the best. America is fine, they pay out, just not as much as State Farm... but at least you get your money within fifteen days. That's just how it goes...

neondriver5 said:Absolute disaster. A complete joke. And yet, people actually try to defend these insurance companies. Disgraceful. 🤮

Honestly, I hear the most complaints about Adriatic, but I had no idea Euroherc was such a total dumpster fire of an insurer too.
Where else is a person supposed to go? Everything is garbage...

They told him he could have avoided the crash by hitting that small embankment on the right side, but then he would've totaled his car and walked away with zero dollars.

Bradley Wilson5 said:What if he takes the money now just to have something, and then sues them for the rest later?

Too late for that. It happened two months ago; we were grabbing coffee and he told me the whole story.

A buddy of mine totaled his car, which was insured through EH, and he wrecked his four-year-old Octavia. An adjuster showed up, looked at the damage, and asked if he wanted to go through a dealership or just settle out of court. My friend opted for the settlement, thinking if the price was right, he could just use a local body shop to save some cash.

They offered him 15 $0.00. He took it because parts were priced around 13 $0.00, and used parts would be even cheaper.

He waits for two weeks... nothing. Then another two weeks... they pass him off to their legal department and—BAM! Total shock. They claimed they later determined he was 40% at fault because he didn't pull over onto a nearby shoulder, so the valuation is now $2500. They said they’d be "fair" and offer him $3000. He refused, so they told him to sue them.

He called a lawyer, who told him they'd win 100%, but it would take about three years. Since my friend needed his car for work, he eventually settled for the $3000. I've added the rest.

My aunt went through the exact same thing, except she decided to have her one-year-old car repaired at an authorized dealership. EH ended up refusing to pay, so she had to pay the dealer in installments to avoid being sued by them. She finally won her court case recently after about two years.

So, think twice about that insurance policy, especially since they're planning to change things next year so that claims are paid out from your own policy first, with your insurer then trying to get reimbursed by the at-fault party's insurance.

Ryan Brooks4 said:Hey
Not sure if this is the right spot for this, but I could use some info
So, I accidentally ripped up a few dollar bills
Is there any way to get them replaced (maybe at a bank)
They're torn almost halfway through
Thanks

You can probably handle that at the Federal Reserve. I know you can do it with quarters, so USD should be fine too...

darkmaker94 said:If things play out the way I said they would, we’re looking at a much better situation than before. Back then, if Chase blocked your account, you were basically screwed because trying to negotiate with those guys is a total nightmare.

That’s assuming this even works. And what, up until now, was the bank just seizing a person's entire paycheck?

darkmaker94 said:You need to hit up the IRS to let them know you’ve got regular deposits hitting a frozen account—specifically the 2/3 portion that's legally protected from garnishment. Once they process that, they should notify your bank, and then your bank can set up a "protected" account where your untouchable paychecks will land.
Now, here’s how it actually plays out in the real world... 🤷

Looks like this is the form you need.

I'm fine, personally. But I was reading an IBM thread yesterday and then saw a story online about a woman who had her entire bank account wiped out. She's left with absolutely nothing. It makes me wonder if that's even legal... how is anyone supposed to survive if they take everything?

Some people suggested she reach out to Finn to negotiate, but she didn't say whether anything actually worked.

Does anyone actually know what FIFA is up to lately? I was scrolling through TX yesterday and saw they’ve frozen 162,000 citizen accounts... does anyone have any idea what's actually going on here?

I mean, what can a person even do when FIFA freezes their account? They aren't supposed to be able to seize more than a third... right?😕

I'm reading online that people's accounts are totally locked up and they can't even access their basic paychecks. Is that even legal?

Maybe someone here actually knows the drill... where to go, how to start, what's what...

I have a few questions since I'm completely in the dark on this.

Basically, I want to launch a small business or an LLC—not sure which makes more sense—focused on transport. I’d start by picking up a single cargo van, but I need some clarity on a few things.

1. Sole proprietorship or an LLC?

2. What’s the checklist? Where do I even begin to make this happen?

3. What kind of capital am I looking at to get an LLC or sole proprietorship off the ground? Right now, I’ve got about $10,000 in savings.

4. Once the business is live, how does tax work? For instance, if a van at a dealership costs $123 $0.00 for a regular consumer, $0.00 is it true that as a business owner it would only cost me $100?

5. Also, say I set up the company and lease a van—what serves as collateral for that lease, assuming that's even an option?

I really want to be my own boss, but the whole process of setting up a business is a total mystery to me.

brightnomad15 said:I guess if you can't even qualify for a loan at an American bank, you probably don't stand a chance with Austrian Credit either, so maybe just don't mess around with that kind of stuff unless you want it to end up costing you dearly.

People get caught up in these deals, taking out predatory loans—assuming they even qualify—and just digging themselves into a deeper hole. Eventually, they can't even cover the interest, let alone the principal.
If you owe a bank, try to settle out of court first. If that fails, just pay what you can, slowly... eventually, the debt gets cleared, hopefully with much lower interest rates.

In my opinion, you shouldn't pay a single cent upfront because it reeks of a scam; once a bank approves a Credit, they take their cut anyway.

If you're already drowning in debt or on a blacklist, chasing these offers will just bury you even deeper... regarding those Austrian Credits, there was a case in the consumer code last year where some guy was swindled by a family friend.

analogstag3 said:I wonder, what would actually happen if someone just decided to stop paying their bills indefinitely?

They’d charge you double, especially if they dragged you into court. Once you factor in the notary fees, the legal costs... suddenly that $3,000 turns into over $10,000 easy.$0.00.

If you don't pay, they come after your paycheck. If you have property or assets in your name, they can seize them...

I believe since early 2006, banks have had the right to seize real estate for even a single dollar debt, regardless of the value.

The best advice I can give is to cut up all your credit cards if you lack self-control. Spending more than you earn is a death sentence; you'll go bankrupt fast.

Say you're near the border of Canada; you could pull $500 from an ATM, maybe $300 in Canada, or $1,000 in Germany or Austria... sure, you get those $1000., but what's the catch? You'll still owe that $1000 next month, plus you'll burn another $2,000 on dinners and gas stations... then your next bill hits $1667., and you just borrow $1667 again. It's a vicious cycle... once it closes, there's no getting out.

Jeffrey Garcia6 said:Exactly.

First, you try physical therapy, exercises, massages... standard stuff.
If there’s zero progress after all that—you absolutely need an MRI.
Then you go from there based on the results... personally, I ended up needing a neurosurgeon and more testing.

Last year I went through a mountain of therapy and nothing worked. Painkillers help slightly, but they aren't a solution.

Now I'm waiting on knee surgery, then I'll talk to my physiatrist about this issue and tell him to send me for an MRI.

Jeffrey Garcia6 said:Schmorl's nodes are just disc herniations into the vertebral body... they don't put pressure on the nerves. Supposedly, they cause zero issues.
I have them too, but I’ve got other, much more serious problems that didn't even show up until my MRI...

More info on Schmorl's nodes here

So an MRI might actually uncover the real reason behind this agonizing pain...