wiredotter14 said:I think the biggest question mark regarding quality here is the motherboard, since it practically lacks VRM heatsinks.
With a budget B550 board like this, you get features like PCIe 4.0, but if you look at other factors—specifically power delivery—you might actually get a better deal with a mid-range B450 board. That said, the S2H isn't necessarily a dealbreaker because the Ryzen 5600 draws very little power. I’d only suggest opting for a beefier board if you're planning on upgrading to something like a 5800X3D, a 5900X, or similar down the road when prices drop.
Also, I would never recommend liquid cooling for a budget build, especially NOT USED liquid cooling... I think it's just common sense that putting something questionable in terms of reliability—something containing water—isn't a great idea to pair with electronics. Not to mention, liquid cooling is completely overkill for most CPUs, especially up to the current generation. You can cool a 65W Ryzen with the stock cooler, and if silence is your priority, any decent 120mm air cooler will do. The one you posted is more than enough.
Well, my plan is to run this rig for maybe 2-3 years max. I mostly just play Warzone with my crew and nothing else really. Maybe some light gaming here and there, but that's it. My PC is primarily for 3D modeling and rendering where the software is almost 100% GPU-based, so this Ryzen 5600 is perfect for me, and an RTX 3070 is going to absolutely fly compared to my current GTX 1060.
Sam Diaz2 said:@rustytrucker37/">@@rustytrucker37 we can definitely agree that this case is a budget option and looks decent enough, but I don't quite get why you wouldn't just pick a case that actually fits your style, grab a future-proof power supply, and then if you need to down the road in a few years, just swap out the motherboard, CPU, and RAM.
Otherwise, your build looks solid and the pricing seems fair.
To be honest, the case is a totally non-factor for me, so if it's cheap and hits that minimalist vibe, I'm fine with it. I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to this stuff, so please correct me if I'm wrong.
What would your specific recommendations be regarding the case and the power supply?
urbanheron4 said:But honestly, buying a used SSD might actually be where you run into trouble. It really comes down to how much mileage it has on it, since they have a finite number of write cycles. Even though a 500 GB drive usually has a limit around 300 TB—which sounds like a massive amount—you never truly know what kind of heavy workloads someone else put that thing through. It would be a smart move to have the seller pull up CrystalDiskInfo so you can see exactly how much life is left in it.
Yeah, I'm aware of that. I'll definitely keep it in mind.
I'm certainly no IT expert, so you might be asking the wrong person here. Btw, why wouldn't I go for the faster, higher-quality option that's actually future-proof if the opportunity is there?
As the title suggests, my goal is to put together a PC build using mostly used components. To keep this discussion from veering off track, let's just assume that all the used parts are fully functional and that the sellers on marketplaces are honest and trustworthy. 😁 😵
Next to each component, I’ve listed the price I managed to find for them on local classified sites.
CPU: Intel Core i5-12400 (I originally considered the 5600x, but since the "non-x" version is essentially the exact same chip, I decided to go with the cheaper option. I’ll be buying this one brand new since they aren't really showing up on the used market.) - $415
COOLER: Noctua NH-U12S - $83
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Prime B550M-A - $167
RAM: DDR4, 3200Mhz, CL16, 2x16Gb (32Gb) - $267 (likely the cheapest kit with these specs I can find)
GPU: GeForce RTX 3070 8Gb - $1000
SSD: Western Digital Black SN850, M.2 NVMe, 500Gb - $167
PSU: Corsair RM750X, 80+ Gold - $233
CASE: MS Fighter S301 - $100
TOTAL: $2433 +-
Based on what I looked up for the same parts if bought brand new at the cheapest retailers, the total comes out to about $4000 +-
I realize that new parts come with a warranty, but the price gap here is massive. I am willing to take that risk.
I'm curious to hear your thoughts on this configuration, the pricing, and whether you would change, add, or remove anything. Also, what specific things should I look out for when buying used hardware like this to minimize potential risks? Thanks in advance!
Could I get a rough estimate on what this setup is worth? I'm looking for a valuation on the whole kit, including the monitor and peripherals. The PC has a fresh installation of Windows 10 with all the updates applied, so it's essentially Plug and Play. Thanks in advance!
Configuration:
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS Prime, socket 1155 PROCESSOR: Intel i3-2100 @ 3.1 Ghz GRAPHICS CARD: AMD Sapphire HD 6570 1 Gb DDR3 RAM: 8 Gb DDR3 (4x2 Gb) STORAGE: 500 Gb HDD (2 partitions; C: 250Gb and 😁 250Gb) POWER SUPPLY: Platinum MS 400 ATX P4 WINDOWS: Digital license for Windows 10 Pro 64 bit
Hey there, I wasn't quite sure if this was the right place to ask, so I figured I'd give it a shot here. I'm looking to transfer a car title from my brother over to my name, but I've run into a bit of a snag because I currently have some outstanding tax debt with the IRS. Does anyone know if that’s even possible, or does the debt prevent the transfer? Just so you know, I operate as a small business owner under a sole proprietorship. Thanks!
The primary focus here is strictly for gaming. These parts are from Micro Center, and the total comes out to roughly $700.$0.00
My main question is whether this is actually a good value. Is there anything you would swap out, add, or remove? Specifically, could I squeeze in a slightly better graphics card within this price bracket?
Thanks so much! Just one last thing—could you suggest where I should go to pick all this stuff up? I’m looking for somewhere that makes the whole process easy and has reliable shipping options...
So, the power supply is a Platinum MS 400 ATX P4. I’m assuming there isn't much worth salvaging from it, right? If so, I'm open to suggestions. Basically, yes—AutoCAD is primarily a single-threaded program. You often see it hitting maybe 50% on one core while the second core sits at 6%, and so on... Since the main goal here is strictly AutoCAD, along with some light web browsing and a few minor tasks, that’s exactly how the configuration should be tailored. I’ve been looking at the "single thread performance" rankings over here: https://www.cpubenchmark.net/singleThread.html And if there's any way to squeeze a bit more out of the build, I'd definitely prefer picking components that are somewhat "future-proof." I noticed the motherboard is a B450M mATX, which might matter since we're keeping the existing case, but I don't see what RAM speed it supports if I were to go with 3200MHz. Thanks!
Thanks! I'll double-check the power supply and get back to you. One thing though—is the processor actually handling the heavy calculations? It’s pretty critical when you're tackling a massive architectural project involving tens of thousands, or even hundreds of thousands, of lines... you really need everything to run smoothly and fast.
My dad is looking to put together a new PC specifically for 2D drafting in AutoCAD. My understanding is that the software relies quite heavily on the graphics card, so we’d ideally like to prioritize a decent GPU, along with a solid processor. He's planning to reuse his current case, hard drive, and potentially the power supply—though I still need to verify the specs on that PSU to see if it's actually worth keeping.
I would appreciate some recommendations for a motherboard, CPU, graphics card, RAM (either 8GB or 16GB), and an SSD (let's say around 256GB). Also, let me know if a new power supply is necessary, provided the total stays around $1.25; if we can come in under that, even better. Thanks!
wiredotter14 said:Actually, I wouldn't say that. Just speaking from experience, building a new rig around a used graphics card often turns out to be a slightly better deal overall.
If you're buying Windows 10 Pro for a business, you absolutely need valid receipts for both the hardware and the software; otherwise, it's basically worthless for compliance purposes.
I was wondering if you all could tell me if the following PC setup is actually worth $900. P.S. Just to be clear, I’m not the one selling this; I’m looking at buying it from someone else.
Ryzen 3 - 4 cores - 4 threads Nvidia GeForce GTX 1060 3GB ASUS dual fan - White edition 8 GB DDR4 RAM - brand new 240 GB SSD - brand new 500 GB HDD 500 W Fortron Power Supply Asrock A320M HDV r4.0 Motherboard + some sort of case, looks fairly professional Comes with Windows 10 Pro
Anyway, please let me know what you think... thanks!
Jeremy Lee3 said:It was just some yellow slips—so that’s all there is to it.
A yellow slip means someone is sending you something important, so you don't just toss it in the trash, because who cares 😁
Haha... well, I suppose I agree with that! But I was pointing out how it was supposed to work. It just isn't practical... But fine, whatever. Anyway, if any of you folks have old documents lying around or remember how things used to be handled, try to get everything squared away now so we don't run into these kinds of messes again 😁
Jeremy Lee3 said:Look, there isn’t just one single spot where you can go to check all of that because debts can come from pretty much anyone—different creditors, different banks, whatever. It honestly has nothing to do with whether the government is broke or not.
If you’ve been hit with a freeze or a lien but you haven't seen a single piece of paper at home, yeah, that’s totally possible for a couple of reasons.
1. They sent the notice to some wrong address. 2. They actually delivered it and left a notice, but you just didn't bother picking up the certified mail at the post office.
If it’s case number 1 and you aren't the one who messed up, you need to pull up the records with the IRS or whatever agency handled the filing, see who was running the show, and call them up to see how the service was handled. If they didn't properly serve you at your actual residence, you’d have every right to file an objection and claim you never received anything.
But if it’s case number 2? That’s on you. 😁
People constantly dodge their mail, and then suddenly this stuff hits a public record or a legal notice board and the deadline to contest it has already passed, all while they’re sitting there clueless that any legal action was even happening.
How is this not related to the absolute mess that is our government? Every single bill is tied to a Social Security number; the state just needs to show some actual initiative! A developer could whip up an app, a system, a database, or a portal in half an hour to make everything automated. As soon as a bill is issued, it goes into the database and everything is transparent. It would save people so much time, money, and sanity. But they don't want to do it because that’s not the goal. Their goal is to collect—basically to rob us blind—just so our sacred bureaucracy and those made-up jobs have something to do while they try to hide the massive unemployment rate. Good job. 👍 (I am livid). I honestly thought I hadn't received any official mail in my mailbox, but there were some yellow slips sitting there that I hadn't picked up, so maybe that was the issue. Whether it was because the notices arrived too late or because it was impossible to get to them... why? Because my local USPS branch stays open until 11 PM, but I'm stuck working until 3 AM—so what kind of logic is that? What if the mail carrier doesn't leave a note or doesn't even deliver it? Why don't the people who can't be bothered just leave a simple warning or something in the box? You're screwed; you have to call here, call there, go here, bring this, do that... it's unbelievable.
Thanks, I honestly wasn't expecting a definitive answer. This country can be such a circus sometimes. If the IRS and my local bank aren't properly synced up—meaning if you have to jump through hoops from one to the other just because determining exactly who owes what and how much is apparently too complicated—then what I'm asking about is basically quantum physics. It’s a total mess, yet somehow, it could all be made incredibly simple...