I’m sure most of you have heard of Chime—it’s basically the modern way to bank. I can snag a $83 bonus if I refer the first five people who sign up and meet a few simple requirements.
I’ll give $67 to anyone who signs up through my link and hits these milestones:
Verify your ID (you'll need a driver's license) and complete the "Know Your Customer" check Top up your account by linking another bank account or using a debit card Order a physical Chime card (shipping is $15) Make 3 purchases of at least $8.25 each (you can just use the virtual card right away)
Shoot me a DM for more details and the referral link. That way, I get $83 and you get 200. Chime has tons of perks—no monthly fees, great exchange rates, free transfers, and it works perfectly with Apple Pay, so your phone basically becomes your wallet if you don't want to carry a physical card. Honestly, it would be best if you were already planning to open an account there anyway—now you can just do it for $67 😀
PS: This "ad" is actually a favor for a buddy. You guys can work out the details directly. He's basically using me for free advertising Just send me a PM and I'll put you in touch with him.
Each browser keeps its own separate history, so if you clear everything on Chrome, it won't touch anything in Discovery. Kind of a weird question, haha, but that's how it works! And just a heads-up, once that browsing data is gone, there's no bringing it back...
That’s all about access speed. Lower latency is always better. So, if that RAM could actually hit those timings, the 9-9-9-24 would be superior, but honestly, it's probably not worth the headache. You don't want to risk frying your memory.
Since we haven't made much headway on that issue, I've got a different question for you all. I have a Gigaset's SX768 modem lying around—any ideas on the best way to put it to use? Also, if it's possible to set it up as an access point, could someone point me in the right direction on how to do that?
If you mean the keyboard light isn't staying on constantly, it usually just flashes for a second when it boots up. Besides, I can't even get into the BIOS using my USB keyboard—I have to use the PS2 port, so trying to power the PC on via the keyboard won't help me anyway. I'll take another look through the BIOS settings to see if there's an option like that... I'm not sure if this has always happened, but I noticed that even when the computer is completely shut down, if I plug my phone into a USB port, it still starts charging.
The manual I have only mentions the CMOS jumper. I've checked the motherboard itself, too, but I don't see any other jumpers besides the one for CMOS. There's probably an option for this somewhere in the BIOS...
It wasn't doing this before. I actually had my motherboard sent in for repair recently, and they swapped it out for the exact same new model about a month and a half ago. I'm wondering if there's a connection—maybe a specific jumper setting or something similar I read about on a forum?
Does anyone have an idea what might be causing this?
Regarding what you mentioned about it suggesting your username and password; that's just because you selected "remember me" when you logged in. Or, you might have your browser settings set up to automatically autofill forms with your saved login info
How do you think I should go about unlocking it? So, would that actually improve the signal? If so, I don't really need it—my connection isn't dropping, it's just that the ping keeps jumping around like I mentioned before... Sorry if I misunderstood you, but I only know the basics when it comes to networking and all these gadgets... Can I just swap out this Microsoft one and use my AT&T modem instead? Because from what you said, it sounds like the AT&T one would just run through the Microsoft modem and boost the signal, which isn't my problem since the signal is fine. I think I should just ditch the Microsoft modem altogether and put my other AT&T modem in its place instead...? I'm definitely not an expert on all this internet stuff.. 😁
Yeah, nothing. EDIT: I actually started another thread about my internet connection issues, but we couldn't quite get it sorted out. So now I'm just wondering if there's any way to swap out this modem or something similar, like I mentioned earlier?
Checking my ping via Microsoft command prompt, and instead of the usual 2 ms, I’m seeing this (Slika). Sometimes it even spikes over 190 ms; it just fluctuates constantly. I don't think this was an issue before, but it definitely started once they swapped out my modem for the exact same model. It's been going on for about five or six months now. The same thing happens on my other computer, which is also on the Wi-Fi. Even though that one is only about 2 feet away from the modem, the results are identical. When I plug in via a Local Area Network connection, the latency stays steady at 1 or 2 ms without any jumping around. I even downloaded 'InSSIDer Home' and tried manually adjusting the channels in the modem settings, but it didn't help at all. I called my provider (AT&T) and they basically told me everything looks fine on their end. They said if I want a new modem, I'd have to pay for a technician to come out and prove there's actually a fault, blah blah blah... I can't remember the specifics, but basically, they claim everything is perfect when it clearly isn't. :S It's causing major lag whenever I try to play games. So, my question is; since I have an old AT&T modem lying around... can I swap it out for this AT&T one, or maybe find another way to use it? I'm pretty sure the issue is definitely with the modem they provided.
William Richardson12 said:Check your computer to see which channels the nearby routers are using, then just pick the one furthest away from any of the ones showing a strong signal at your place.
So, does it mean the dog can kick the bucket even if the PSU fan is spinning along with all the other component fans? I'm just really hoping it wasn't some other part that fried...
A few days ago, my replacement motherboard finally arrived from the repair shop after they had to swap out a faulty BIOS chip under warranty. Once the board showed up, I couldn't actually test anything because I was still waiting on my RAM and GPU to arrive. As soon as everything landed, I put the build together and hit the power button, but there’s no signal to the monitor. The case just shows a solid green light and all the fans start spinning. I'm honestly not even sure if it's posting, since it's been so long since I used this rig that I can't even remember what the startup beep is supposed to sound like... 😁 It should have worked fine, though, given how it ran before. I'm starting to wonder about the power supply—I've got a 460W Linkword unit, but the official specs for my HD 6850 say it recommends at least 500W. I also suspect the PSU might be the culprit because the light on the DVD drive doesn't come on, and the tray won't even eject when I press the button. Plus, neither my keyboard nor my mouse are lighting up, and there's zero sound coming from the tower. Let me know if I missed any details. Thanks in advance for any help... I'll probably drop it off at a local repair shop in a couple of days to let the pros take a look, but I wanted to see if you guys had any thoughts first.
I didn't catch that in my settings. I haven't been on Facebook much lately since I've been busy upgrading my PC, so there's that. I'll check it out once I get my new build finished and then turn it off.