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Posts by wiredotter14

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PC Upgrade Ideas in Desktops ·
Nah, the 5600X is a beast. The 5800X? Totally overpriced. You're paying way too much per core compared to the 5900X. Look, if you're just gaming, stick with the 5600X. If you're doing video editing or heavy workstation stuff, go for the 5900X. As far as I'm concerned, the 5800X is a bad deal. Better to take that extra cash and dump it into a better GPU—maybe hunt down an RTX 3060 Ti or something similar.

The difference is $333, not 800
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
Zachary Martin4 said:So I can just grab a Dell UltraSharp U2723QE for $467 (or should I look elsewhere) and pair it with some kind of digital tuner? I'm a bit lost on those tuners though—what are they and what's the damage?

Check out this monitor:
https://www.bing.com/search?q=Q3279VWFD8

I use one myself. It's solid. 1440p is the sweet spot for this size and watching 4K content. It’s affordable, IPS, great picture quality. I watch movies and shows on it in my room; it's perfect for watching from bed. Sure, it's not a TV, but at that distance, it's not too small. I wouldn't go back to anything smaller. It even has a headphone jack if you need it.
You can run it through HDMI to a receiver and DisplayPort to your PC simultaneously, so there's no constant cable swapping.

For the digital tuner, just make sure whatever you pick has an HEVC/H.265 decoder—most do by now. Not much thinking required there; half the grandmas in America have a box sitting around because their old TVs don't support the current standard. Just plug it in via HDMI and use the remote that comes with it. You can probably find a thread in the audio/video section about these boxes.
Monitor buying guide (mega-thread) in Computer Peripherals ·
Either you just hook up any monitor to a digital TV tuner
GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
fadedorca66 said:Look, if this thing is pulling 380-400W at full load, there's really no debate—just swap out the power supply already...

so

wanderingbison9 said:@wiredotter14/">@@wiredotter14:

Power draw was measured on an undervolted card, as I mentioned, but without underclocking (it stayed at 1380 MHz), while the CPU (R1600X) was overclocked to 4GHz.
An underclock of 100-200 MHz on the GPU doesn't change much, though you might lose a few FPS; the real key is the VRAM at 2250 MHz. Compute doesn't help anything, probably because the GPU-CPU/RAM transfer overhead per frame just cancels out any gains from faster Compute.
Honestly, an RX 570 would work too since it's about 5% slower, and if they're the same price, why bother? :coffee:

ja 9 t using Tapatalk

Regardless of what the PSU can handle, undervolting isn't a bad idea if you're trying to drop temps and power consumption.
That Compute option? Pretty sure AMD just baked their mining driver straight into the standard driver a few years back when the mining craze hit and they were shipping two different driver versions.

VRAM tuning is usually more of a headache than GPU tuning. If you're truly obsessed with squeezing out every last drop of performance, you could mess with VRAM tuning by flashing the BIOS, but be extremely careful if your card doesn't have a dual BIOS.
Just play around with the voltage and the GPU clock; dropping the clock slightly lets you significantly lower the voltage.
GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
Timothy Kim60 said:Yeah, but that's just the GPU—specifically the GPU-chip—not the entire graphics card. That's how the data comes through if you're looking at monitoring software.

These GPUs pull about 200W during actual gaming, though they jump up to the 220-250W range during stress tests, depending on which model you're running. I highly doubt you can cut power consumption in half just by undervolting—you guys are only looking at the GPU portion.

The GPU alone can pull 75W, then you’ve got another 25W going to the memory and everything else. I'm talking about mining here, which is pretty intense, though you can always go the underclocking route. Personally, my card runs dead silent and stable at 0.925V and 1150Mhz. You can hit 1200Mhz if you bump it to 0.95V—which is close to the base clock of around 1250Mhz—but obviously, that depends on the specific card you're holding.
I have no idea how this works in those programs wanderingbison9 needs. Does performance take a massive hit when you drop the clock speed, or is it more memory-focused like mining?
Look, that GPU-chip power draw figure isn't exactly pinpoint accurate on its own. But generally speaking, you can just look at the actual measurements. If you've got a rig with six cards and a Pentium pulling 700W straight from the wall, it’s not exactly rocket science to figure out what each individual card is sucking up.

wanderingbison9 said:I measured exactly how many watts the whole rig pulls from the wall—running both the CPU and GPU under full stress simultaneously—and it hit between 380 and 400 W. When I ran Unigine Heaven, it pulled 300 W, but that's because the CPU isn't being pushed to its absolute limit there.

The absolute max undervolt I managed to pull off without the driver crashing was from 1.150 down to 1.075 V.

ja 9 t using Tapatalk

What clock speeds? Stock?
If you want to cut down on power consumption, undervolting helps a ton compared to just underclocking.

Also, have you tried switching the settings from "Graphics" to "Compute"? It makes a massive difference for mining. Not sure if that applies to whatever you're working on, though.
GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
Timothy Kim60 said:That's only 120W. And if you're actually thinking that what MSI Afterburner or whatever displays is the total power draw of the GPU, you're wrong. It isn't. 😁
So, the power supply definitely needs an upgrade. Where the old one sits, there’s just not enough juice—plus, the quality isn't exactly anything to write home about.

Do $167 You need something high-quality, but you also need serious power. Might be best to go with... This is it.

Hitting 120W is actually doable if you undervolt. Take an RX 580, for example—if you go with a moderate underclock and undervolt while mining, you can get that down to around 100W.
GPU Buying Guide - (Read first post) in Desktops ·
New GPUs don't have analog outputs anymore, so you're going to need an active adapter. Honestly, I'd just hunt down a used card that actually has a DVI-I port; then all you'll need is a cheap passive adapter for about $5.00. Look for an Nvidia 900 series, AMD 300 series, or anything older than that.
PC build under $1,800? in Desktops ·
I honestly don't get why the quality is such a roller coaster. IBM had some terrible motherboards once, and then there was that absolute disaster of a gaming laptop—the one that looks like a total steal on paper but is actually trash. I wouldn't suggest an IBM product to anyone without seeing a solid review first.
Timothy Kim60 said:At least it’s actually in stock, which is something, but they could definitely do better. The link originally showed $833.

I bet that was their "long-term" target price, and then they just jacked it up. Once the 1080p resolution version drops, I think it'll settle around $2000 & $833 and slowly drift toward that mark over time.
Thanks 😁 👍👍👍

AMD Ryzen 4/8 Core $900 is available, which is basically a decent enough deal.

https://www.amazon.com/amd-processor...m_medium=click
Home office PC build ideas? in Desktops ·
Joshua Garcia3 said:Yeah, touch one component like an MBO B450 and suddenly the budget skyrockets, huh. 🙄

Look, if you're just looking at entry-level options for both, there isn't much of a gap. You can find a B450 board for cheap. Sure, a beefier one would be better, but when money is tight, entry-level B450 gets the job done. $167 What's your actual total budget for this whole build? And does having an upgrade path later actually matter to you?
If you're really scraping by, an i3 is a solid move.
Home office PC build ideas? in Desktops ·
Joshua Garcia3 said:If I swapped out that Intel's motherboard and Intel i3 combo for an AMD board and CPU at that same price point—roughly $433—could I get better performance if everything else stays the same? Or...

EDIT: Looking at what you can grab for about $433, this seems doable:

- CPU AMD Ryzen 5 1600 BOX, s. AM4, AF 12nm, YD1600BBAFBOX
- MBO Asus Prime A320M-K, Socket AM4, AMD A320, 2x DDR4, max. 32 GB, mATX, AGP

Is that actually better than the Intel setup mentioned above?

It's better for futureproofing because of the extra cores. Plus, the upgrade path is significantly better, especially if you pick up a B450 board (they aren't expensive).
On the flip side, the i3 10100 f is actually slightly faster on average right now and won't be obsolete for gaming anytime soon. It’s slower than the 1600 which has more "muscle," but it holds its own today.

If you're cutting it close with your budget, stick to the i3 + H410 option rather than going Ryzen + AMD A320.

@Mahun, there's no real need to overclock, but a B450 is the smarter move for the upgrade path and general features. You could drop a 5000 series chip into a B450 board in a couple of years without any headache, giving you a massive upgrade with minimal effort.
My first PC build! in Desktops ·
Jacob Cooper5 said:Look, I know the rule about online shopping, but even then, companies find ways to dodge returns if they feel like it. In my experience, it was just one of those unfair loopholes they could have easily used against an online order too... at least, that's how it felt. They can always play dumb and make things difficult if that's what they're aiming for.
As for "good prices" on graphics cards? I don't know about that. Every time I check their site, it seems like the only way to get close to a decent price is through a wire transfer or cash—and even then, it's still at least 10% higher than the competition.
When you're talking about high-ticket items worth thousands of dollars, being a few hundred bucks more expensive than everyone else just because you're paying cash isn't exactly a bargain...

1) Best Buy has the same prices for cash or card; that's just how they operate. Right now, they're the only ones with a 3060Ti for $1333 (though it's out of stock, so keep an eye on it). Generally, they're pricier than the other guys since they don't offer cash discounts.

2) You won't have any issues with returns when you exercise your right to cancel a contract and return an item in its original packaging. You aren't filing a warranty claim; you're just exercising a cancellation right, which requires notifying them via email or a web form. Check out the details here regarding the RIGHT TO CANCEL A CONTRACT CONCLUDED OUTSIDE BUSINESS PREMISES OR DISTANCE CONTRACTING
https://www.bestbuy.com/help/returns

This doesn't apply to digital goods, obviously, but it covers all hardware regardless of why you want to send it back—whether the monitor is dead or you just hate the color of the plastic.

Card:

https://www.bestbuy.com/graphics-cards
https://www.bestbuy.com/graphics-cards
Home office PC build ideas? in Desktops ·
Joshua Garcia3 said:It’s an EVGA SuperNOVA 500 GT. It’s about 6 years old now, but it was just sitting in a backup rig—probably only actually powered on maybe 20 times. Barely used. You really think it’s trash? Think I should just swap it out?

The link is right here.

If they aren't beat up, they should be fine. An i3 build paired with an RTX 1650 Super probably pulls maybe 200W under load.
Home office PC build ideas? in Desktops ·
@Cilim If you can swing the cash, the GTX 1650 Super is a massive upgrade over the GTX 1050Ti. Definitely worth it.
If the 1650 Super is out of reach, grab the 1050Ti. It’s way better than integrated graphics and will actually let you play stuff decently.

@Andrew Miller102/">@@Andrew Miller102, take it easy. The guy's just trying to buy a GPU.
My first PC build! in Desktops ·
Jacob Cooper5 said:Don't bother buying anything from Best Buy if you actually care about your wallet.
Honestly, dealing with their returns can be a total nightmare too. I had this whole ordeal with a monitor where I just wanted to test it out at home and return it, but they turned me down claiming there were "scratches" on it. Even their own technician basically admitted I was right—that what they were calling "scratches" was just unavoidable given how crappy the packaging was. It wasn't even a real scratch; it was more like this weird, faint line that only shows up if you look at the screen from certain angles...
Anyway, the guy could see the packaging was ridiculously tight—we both struggled just to get the thing out of the box—but he basically told me that the higher-ups make the final call. And since my reason for returning it wasn't "damage," but just that I didn't like the way the image looked...
Well, I wasn't even asking for a full refund; I just wanted an even exchange or to pay the difference for a better model. They couldn't have cared less.

If you order online, you can return it within 14 days regardless of why. That's huge, especially for monitors. There’s zero point in buying directly from a physical store unless there's some exclusive deal. Best Buy has decent prices on GPUs, and right now, they're pretty much the only ones with any stock available.
Home office PC build ideas? in Desktops ·
wanderingbison9 said:Look, if we're talking about The New York Times, HDMI 1.4 might be an issue, or maybe it isn't—it all depends on what you're watching. If you're into movies, 24 Hz is plenty; honestly, it's preferred. Whether you're running at 24 or 60 Hz, the source material is still 24 fps, so on a 60 Hz display, you're just going to get pull-down judder regardless. 30 Hz isn't even a real standard. You want 50/60 Hz for sports, news, or certain TV shows. But it's not like 30 Hz gives you a headache while 24 doesn't. Movies have been shot at 24/25 fps since forever, so why is everyone acting like it's suddenly a massive problem? That link you posted is wrong on a few counts. When they slowed down 30 fps by 50%, you end up with 15 fps, which obviously stutters like crazy. Otherwise, 30 fps isn't that big of a deal (like slowing 60 fps by 50% gets you a smooth 30 fps). Besides, 99% of high-action movies are at 24 fps. The exceptions are The Hobbit at 48 fps and some newer stuff by Ang Lee.

It’s not hard to find a cheap motherboard with HDMI 2.0 anyway. The ones Tirox mentioned have it. The Gigabyte DS3H has it too, and it’s only about $45. But whatever, clearly there's a strict budget for this i3 + GPU build.
Which PSU should I buy? in Desktops ·
fadedorca66 said:So those are your miners. 😁
Yeah, people use all sorts of random adapters and makeshift setups. One guy's PC fires up on the first try while someone else's won't even budge.
Yeah, 2x molex will handle that load just fine. No issues there.

It didn't even cross my mind that this was about mining—even though I mine myself. I honestly thought it was some kind of rendering setup or something. The power supply choice and that 150W figure just didn't add up to me. A GTX1070 with proper tuning pulls about 100W when you're mining.
Home office PC build ideas? in Desktops ·
Joshua Garcia3 said:Current setup:
- Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 3.33 GHz
- EVGA 500W Power Supply
- Silver Dell Inspiron case
- Nvidia GeForce 9600 GT
- 6GB RAM

This current rig is too weak for "Fortnite," which requires:

Minimum System Requirements

Video Card: Intel HD 4000 on PC or Intel Iris Pro 5200 or equivalent AMD GPU on Mac
Processor: Core i3-3225 3.3 GHz
Memory: 4 GB RAM
OS: Windows 7/8/10 64-bit

@tirox: Hey, long time no see. It's been a while.

Power supply should be fine. Check what Mahun wrote; you could probably grab those without the PSU. You don't need a beast to run Fortnite on low settings, but playing on integrated graphics? Forget about it. What Mahun suggested—or even a weaker GTX 1050 Ti listed below $333—is a massive upgrade over this.
Home office PC build ideas? in Desktops ·
What kind of power supply are you running?

Intel CPUs don't exactly have stellar integrated graphics, so calling it a "decent" gaming rig is a stretch. You might squeeze through some very light titles, but you’ll definitely want dual-channel memory (two sticks) to stand a chance.
Ideally, you'd go with a Ryzen 5 4650 g. It sits right in that sweet spot where it competes with an i5 for a similar price, but the integrated graphics actually pack a punch. Sadly, it looks like they're out of stock right now. I picked up a machine from google.com a couple of weeks ago that had one for about $500, and honestly, it's a killer deal. If you aren't in a massive rush, I'd say wait a bit.

The other route—which is actually way more cost-effective—is to grab an i3 10100 f. For the money, it’s a solid chip (basically acts like an older quad-core i7). You won't notice much difference compared to an I5 10500 for basic tasks, plus you can pair it with a dedicated GPU—new or used—for roughly the same total budget.
Think a GTX1650, or if the budget is tight, at least a GTX1050Ti. That'll be miles ahead of any integrated solution.
https://www.amazon.com/graphics-cards
https://www.amazon.com/search?q=i3+10100