I had no idea I could get away with 550W. Everything I read online suggested I needed more—like 600 or 650. Does having higher wattage actually help with safety when there are voltage fluctuations or whatever? Or does it just come down to whether you have a high-quality PSU from a decent brand? Sorry, electricity and I never really clicked. I did visit a tech museum over by the Potomac once, though. 😁>
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The RTX2070 pulls up to 200W, then the rest of the build takes another 100-200W, putting your peak at around 400. It’s about quality, not raw wattage—especially when you're talking about handling surges and long-term reliability. That Seasonic unit is top-tier.
Robert Rodriguez2 said:Cards in that bracket are basically just enough to get an image on the screen. Maybe if you stumble upon something like a GTX 750ti or a GTX 760... but then again, it all depends on what software you're running.
Look, a GTX750Ti or a GTX760 isn't exactly "just" for showing an image. For that price point, they actually do some work.
Same goes for the GTX650(Ti) and stuff like that.
Just watch your power supply. A GTX760, for instance, pulls a bit more juice.
Looks decent at a glance, but we can't see any US pricing here. You should've just pasted your cart from Future
1) Of course you can cut corners somewhere, the question is how much you're willing to sacrifice
2) Nvidia supports FreeSync, so feel free to check out FreeSync monitors regardless of which card you pick
3) That CASE looks pretty overpriced; you don't need a tank for a build like this. The 5700XT doesn't run super hot, and the CPU is low power. Any basic CASE with at least three 120mm fans should do the trick
If the installation happens to hang on you—which happens once in a blue moon—just give Microsoft US a call and they'll hook you up with an activation code.
Lawrence Richardson13 said:btw, you think an SSD is enough on its own? without an HDD. I feel like 480 GB would fill up pretty fast with movies, games, and stuff.
If it fits the budget, just toss in a 1-2TB HDD. Stick with the same SSD though.
Roger Mitchell4 said:Hey everyone. Is the Logitech G432 actually worth it? I already dropped $107 on them, but they haven't arrived yet—just waiting on a buddy to bring them back from New York xD. Just wondering if there was anything better out there for that kind of cash.
Man, at this point, none of it matters. Everything's gone south.
Lawrence Richardson13 said:Btw, how do you actually snag that 2% discount? And where on their site do I request them to build the components together? 👍
I think you just shoot them an email using your forum handle so they can apply the discount to the quote.
Stock seems fine, won't expire anytime soon. A 6-core multithreaded chip for an entry-level price? Honestly, it's a steal . Five years ago, you could only grab some dual-core i3s for this kind of cash .
Technically, both should work fine. But that first one is basically identical to the one you had before, so if you want to play it safe, just stick with that one.
Adam Moore3 said:Looking for a PSU for an Intel i5 6500 + AMD RX580 build. Here's the catch—I'm buying on credit, and since I'm stuck in Cleveland and don't want to deal with shipping, Intel seems like my only option. Since credit means I have to pay via $167, I'm scanning $167 to find a decent best buy.
I see this 650W modular Antec NeoECO for $183, or any of these be Quiet! System Power 9 units for $183 as well.
Not sure how the financing situation is at other shops in Cleveland (Corsair, HP), but their selection looks pretty weak in this $80-ish range. Thoughts?
That be Quiet! Power 9 is solid; you won't go wrong with Antec in general.
Personally, I'd look at the be Quiet! Pure Power 11 500W Gold. You also have the Seasonic Forza 750W Gold for $166; you could probably bundle it with $167 like a mousepad or something.
There’s no dedicated GPU inside, but you can throw in a Ryzen 2400g or 3400g, and probably some future 7nm APU down the line.
It’ll be plenty for what’s needed. It’s incredibly compact; you just pop in the processor and the RAM and you're done. The AMD Wraith Stealth stock cooler fits perfectly, and from what I know, this comes with a power adapter similar to a laptop brick.
mellowsurfer59 said:I was talking to a guy at the computer shop, and he told me I could just grab a single 8GB stick and pair it with what I’ve already got. So, what's the move here—should I go with one 8GB stick or two 4GB sticks?
If you grab a single 8GB stick and pair it with your current memory, you should get dual channel—just be careful how you seat them. Those two 4GB sticks need to be in the slots that share the same color.
According to some posts on Reddit, you might be better off just grabbing another 2x4GB kit, assuming your motherboard can handle it. You could even look for used sticks if buying new ones feels like a rip-off; usually, smaller capacity memory is way cheaper on the secondhand market.
Finding a decent business laptop is a total headache, especially when you're looking for something basic—like actually being able to run dual displays—instead of some overpriced $3.25 nonsense.
Most laptops that come with an HDMI port don't bother supporting video output through the USB-C port, which pretty much makes that USB-C port useless. Then you have those oddities like the older Surface laptops that featured a Mini-DisplayPort (which was pointless anyway) but didn't even include USB-C at all.
The dream is a laptop with a Thunderbolt port via USB-C. With one tiny dongle, you're set for everything.
But searching for that isn't easy either because retail sites are terrible at listing actual specs, making it impossible to filter properly.
This one has Thunderbolt, so you just leave a single dongle on your desk and call it a day—it handles two monitors, the keyboard, the mouse, whatever. No need to waste money on an expensive docking station.
One more thing: if you're buying for a business, make sure you get at least a 2-year warranty. A lot of places try to slide you a 1-year deal just because you're a corporate buyer.
Pro offers extra networking features and stuff, but that’s got nothing to do with whether you can use it for business. Even Microsoft doesn't claim that.
A few years back, I called Microsoft support while reactivating a system. They had no clue about any requirement for it to be Pro.
When you're buying a license separately, the price gap isn't massive, though laptops that come pre-installed with Pro tend to be way more expensive.
If an auditor ever shows up, you'd better have a receipt showing you bought the license or a machine that comes with one included.
Hunting for a laptop specifically for Photoshop is a bit of a headache. You can't just rely on the spec sheet; an screen that rocks for gaming isn't always what you want for PS.