Regarding laptop SSDs—yeah, they're the same tech, but it really comes down to your specific machine. It depends on whether you're swapping out an old 2.5" HDD (the standard size you see in most desktops too) or if you're plugging into an M.2 slot.
Both 2.5" and M.2 formats work in both desktops and laptops, but with a desktop, you basically have endless options. With a laptop, you're stuck with whatever slots the manufacturer actually gave you. Some laptops have an M.2 slot; some don't.
If you've got a spare M.2 slot in that laptop, grab an SSD for it. That way, you can just leave the old HDD alone.
It’s high time the next generation (Nvidia GeForce RTX 2060) hits that $300 mark again, actually pushing 1080p to its limit or even handling 1440p properly.
Maybe it's just the reviewers you follow, but I feel like most mainstream outlets are using top-tier GPUs and cranking every detail to the max.
You don't necessarily see an FPS boost just by jumping from high to medium settings; usually, it's those specific individual settings that actually move the needle more than the overall preset level.
But regardless, just because a card can't push everything at ultra settings doesn't mean it isn't still optimal. Being "optimal" was never synonymous with "everything on ultra" anyway.
There are plenty of games where the Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 Minimum FPS actually dips below 60.
The Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 still makes sense for 1080p, mostly because it won't always be total overkill, especially at 75Hz.
But looking at 1080p in general, my point isn't that games can't crush a card or that people shouldn't play new releases. It's that those tests where the FPS on an AMD Radeon RX 580 / Nvidia GeForce GTX 1060 drops under 60 are usually done on max settings—and you could push that FPS back above 60 with just a few minor tweaks that most people wouldn't even notice.
Games have these ridiculous requirements on max settings because 1) reviews and trailers are shot on those settings to get that "wow" factor. 2) Nvidia and AMD sponsor these games, so obviously they want to make sure you feel the need to buy a beefier GPU.
Just dial back the AA, turn off Gameworks, tweak your textures, and in most cases, you'll be fine.
Your PC keeps throwing "video hardware error," your 3D apps are crashing left and right, and you’re still insisting it can't be the GPU. 😵
Just because it doesn't show up in the logs every single time doesn't mean the cause isn't the same, or that Windows didn't just log it differently.
The fact that it crashes for 10 seconds and then recovers is basically the same crap I dealt with when I was messing with my GPU's BIOS and overclocking the VRAM—which is, by definition, a hardware issue. The very fact that your whole system isn't hitting a BSOD, but just the image itself is failing, points directly at a graphics problem.
If you want to rule out other variables, do a clean install of Windows and try a different power supply.
A graphics card doesn't have to be completely dead to be broken; we're talking about instabilities that lead to crashes.
There's no such thing as a "super high-quality" card. There are just models that are total garbage and then everything else that might develop a flaw after years of use. A GPU has the chip itself, a dozen voltage regulators, and memory components that can all fail.
Same goes for your power supply; obviously, it could be related. What you're asking is like asking if the quality of your gas could be why your car is misfiring.
Unstable voltage can cause these kinds of crashes. It's less likely to be the motherboard itself, but maybe the power delivery through the PCIe slot.
Sure, most modern games are definitely GPU-bound, but the real question is what would actually make sense for this specific build. If you're just aiming for 1080p, an AMD Radeon RX 580 or something slightly less powerful should do the trick if the budget is tight enough.
Just because some games absolutely murder your GPU at max settings on FHD doesn't mean you actually need a beastly card. The difference between Ultra and High settings? Honestly, most of the time, you can barely even tell.
If I were you, I’d hunt down a used GTX 1060 6GB or an RX 580 8GB—something with a warranty included—for maybe a couple hundred bucks.
What GPU would actually make sense for this build? I'm planning to jump to an i5 when the timing is right—assuming I don't just scrap the whole thing by then. Current specs: Pentium G4560, 8GB RAM, FSP 500W power supply, Hyper storage, Gigabyte GA-B250M-D3H motherboard. Using a Dell UltraSharp monitor.
Thanks
Depends entirely on what you want to spend.
You're looking at anything from a GTX 1050 (maybe $100ish) up to an AMD Radeon RX 580 or an NVIDIA GTX 1060 6GB.
Peter Green said:Both are OEM. You get a license for both. One lets you reinstall if you swap out a motherboard or whatever, while the other is tied to the hardware—it’s locked to one machine. Plus, the first one comes with official macOS support; the second doesn't. That's how it was explained to me when I was buying software for my company.
Christian Hayes45 said:Thanks, order is placed. I'm just confused about how they're charging me for Windows 10 $200 when the listing says roughly $400. Is it actually half price? There’s gotta be a catch, right?
Nothing specific to watch out for, though maybe give it a feel if you get the chance.
For a mouse and keyboard combo, I’d suggest this. It’s a solid keyboard, won't break the bank, and comes bundled with a mouse (haven't personally tested the mouse, but it's probably fine).
https://www.amazon.com/logitech-mk120
If you prefer buying them separately, you can still grab that same keyboard—just search for "Logitech K120" on Amazon.
P.S. The guys over at Best Buy have some kind of error on their site regarding this keyboard, so skip them.
Bryan Ward3 said:Hey there! I don't want to start a whole new thread since the situation is basically the same (building a rig for the kids, and Fortnite is what they're playing right now), just with a slightly tighter budget. Are these pre-built bundles on sale at Home Depot actually worth the cash, or does anyone have better recommendations in this price range? Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/example-link-1
What crimsonstag84 said is spot on, and that GPU is a steal at that price.
Just a heads-up: if you're looking to shave some cash off the budget, you could easily go with 8GB of RAM. You won't notice much difference right now, and it’s easy to add more later if you run into a game that actually struggles with it.
What power supply are you running exactly? You probably won't need to swap it out.
Post your old parts here in the thread. People will give you an idea of what they're worth, then you can list them on eBay or just hit up the hardware marketplace here on the forum.
It’s a big deal. Building a serious rig for that kind of money is doable now since prices have finally dropped.
You can hang onto the case, the power supply, and your HDD/SSD. Buying those new would set you back at least $100-$400.
Also, if you're willing to look at a used GPU, you'll save a ton. You could snag an AMD Radeon RX 580 that still has some warranty left for under $667.
For the new stuff, go with a CPU, motherboard, and 8GB of RAM (that's plenty for 99% of what people actually do).
If you grab an AMD Ryzen 5 2600 box + an AMD B450M board + RAM, you're looking at about $833. Toss in a GPU and you're around $1500. That's way less than $600, and honestly, it's a legitimate setup. It won't even be a contest compared to what you're running right now.
Let me know if you're cool with keeping those parts I mentioned, if you're okay buying a GPU on eBay, and if that budget works for you.
Someone will put a build together for you based on exactly what you're looking for.
P.S.
Sell your current CPU, motherboard, RAM, and GPU. You won't get much—maybe $$233 (someone else can give you a better estimate)—but it's still worth using that cash toward the upgrade.