Look, don't go dropping questions like that here—it’s against the rules. For starters, maybe take a second to actually read through the forum guidelines.
It’s possible—but honestly, if you didn't see a massive cloud of white smoke billowing out of the case, things are probably fine. You won't really know for sure until you swap in a different power supply and test it.
They’re probably cheaper because they only come with a 12-month warranty—plus, you're looking at slightly older models here—but honestly, I doubt you'll find a better deal than this anywhere else.
It’s going to be pretty much impossible to get a straight answer from anyone since those pages don't list a single shred of actual technical data on the drives. Usually, the variables boil down to this:
The physical size—2.5" versus 3.5"—is a big one; the larger ones cost more, plus you're looking at price jumps every time the capacity climbs (and honestly, most of those smaller 2.5" drives usually top out around 750 GB anyway) USB 2.0 versus USB 3.0—obviously, 3.0 carries a premium And then there's the spindle speed—5400 rpm versus 7200 rpm—faster speeds mean higher prices
So, what kind of storage capacity are we actually talking about here, and what's your rough budget looking like?
You’ll start seeing those duplicate events once the log files hit a certain size—it’s just one of those things—so your best bet is to just wipe all the logs in the Event Viewer. Clear everything out, then give it a quick restart and see what actually shows up in there after the dust settles.
If you think that one’s a total rip-off, you could always grab this instead—it's a bit of a step down from the 6670, sure, but it won't break the bank like that other one:
Look, buying an external drive and a separate enclosure is just a bad move—you're basically throwing money away when you bundle them. Besides, finding anything smaller than 500 GB in the portable market these days is nearly impossible, and if you actually manage to find one, expect to shell out about $233 for the privilege.
Amanda White82 said:I've got Windows 7 Ultimate—is that actually good? Or should I just grab Home Premium instead?
So, yeah—I'm calling it quits on the upgrade thing and I'm just going for a clean install.
When I installed Starter, I didn't have any clue what version I was even running—now I can't even change my desktop wallpaper🙄, who knows what else it won't let me do😕, so I'd rather just wipe it all out now while there isn't anything important on the laptop yet.
Just go for it like there's nothing to lose—wipe the C drive during the installation and call it a day.
Honestly, I’d probably lean toward one of those two BenQ models—mostly just because that longer warranty is hard to ignore... though, I guess you could also go with the Sony VPL-series.
Most 3.5" enclosures usually require their own external power brick—standard stuff—whereas 2.5" drives can just run off the USB bus without any extra fuss. Cooling is mostly passive in these setups, though if you dig through the larger enclosures, you might stumble upon one with an actual fan tucked inside. If you're looking for something to house a 3.5" drive, you could grab something like this from ADM: $70 http://www.spire-corp.com/main/produ...sp?ProdID=1005
Look, don't go throwing your money away on some overpriced monitor... besides, if you check your laptop, you'll see you've already got plenty of video outputs to work with.
Are you looking for something snappy for gaming, or what? Is one going on the desktop and the other hooked up to a laptop?
If you’re leaning toward a larger screen, I’d personally suggest this 27" model: http://www.asus.com/Display/LCD_Moni...278Q/#overview
The color accuracy is solid, the refresh rate is quick enough, and it’s loaded with a shitload of ports—plus it’s got a webcam and built-in speakers. You can snag it at Best Buy for $867.
The Dell UltraSharp is a fantastic monitor, honestly—but unless you're actually doing professional graphic design for a living, it's probably a bit overkill for your needs.
Did you actually grab those drivers from the Trust website—or did you just use the CD if one came in the box? Either way, make sure you get it done. Also, go ahead and install DirectX using that link I dropped above. You can also hit up this Trust test page to see how the camera is behaving: http://www.trust.com/webcamtestguide
So, what kind of software are you actually running to try and burn things? And more importantly—what kind of error message does it throw at you when you attempt to start the process?