You can grab the software right here (under section 1. Programs): http://www.adata.com.tw/index.php?ac...&cid=2&piid=98
Basically, the backup function just takes everything on that drive and syncs or copies it over to another drive in your PC—standard stuff. Whether you want to manually drag and drop files via copy/paste or just hit that button in the software, it’s all functionally the same thing in the end.
Give this a shot: http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub...2011-07-25.exe
It’s basically just the Windows Update tool—it pulls down all the necessary software and drivers automatically—so maybe try using that to hunt down what you need. I checked the Dell support site, and while they do have drivers listed there, they're apparently only compatible with 32-bit Windows Vista.
The Medusa is actually pretty solid—if you’re looking for something specifically for shooters, you can't go wrong with that surround sound setup. You might also want to look into the SteelSeries 5H v2; their 7.1 surround is great and the mic is top-tier, though they aren't exactly high-fidelity for music—but if you're just gaming, they're more than fine. Honestly, they probably cost about the same anyway. Razer has the Orc and the Electar in that same price bracket, but I haven't really heard much about them—so, who knows, maybe they're better than the first two?
crimsonridge2 said:So, here’s the deal—my rig keeps freezing up and crashing hard. It won't even boot properly; I just get stuck staring at a black screen. I have to literally yank the power cable out, wait about ten seconds, plug it back in, and then when it finally decides to wake up, it’s reset everything back to the default 1.8MHz... or something like that. The point is, I can't just keep cranking up the HT ref. clock and hoping for the best—that's clearly not working. I need to stabilize the other settings too, but honestly? I haven't quite figured out which specific ones to tweak or what the right ratios should be to actually make this thing stable.
Bump that core voltage up to 1.41 V and give it another shot—if it still won't boot, just nudge it up another 0.01V and try again... simple enough, right?
Once the CPU temp settles down and stops jumping all over the place, let the test run for another hour or so just to be safe.
Keep C1e enabled—this chip actually handles hardware throttling pretty well, so those sudden jumps from idle to full speed happen almost instantly... it keeps the processor from just running at max speed for no reason when you don't actually need the juice.
It’s basic math—obviously, your connection is going to crawl if everyone in the house is hogging the bandwidth at once. And honestly, what are you even talking about with those USBs? What purpose could they possibly serve here?!?