Posts by steelsailor3

@Morgan Richardson/">@@Morgan Richardson
If you head into your BIOS settings, look for the "BIOS Setting" section, find where it says "CPU Clock Ratio Unlock," and just switch that over to "Enabled"
I’m going off memory here, so if I’ve got the menu names slightly off, don't go throwing a fit at me😉

wiredmarlin5 said:Check out this board: 😁

An EVGA 965P heatpipe paired with two 8800GTX cards in SLI running on it😂😂😂

The motherboard is a Gigabyte and it actually supports CrossFire🤣

Everyone keeps insisting that bronze is actually better just because it comes with a win under your belt,
but if you look at how that "future" bronze medalist lost out to the "newly minted" silver or gold winner in the semifinals,
it leads me to think it’s inherently a tier below the top two.
I’m not buying that whole argument about silver being handed out on a silver platter, either; honestly, you need way more grit and guts to fight your way through to a final
than you do just to scrape by into a semifinal.

It all really just boils down to the numbers
silver=2
bronze=3
and since 2 comes before 3, I’m taking silver—even if it means grinding my way there through a loss in the finals
at the end of the day, I'm still better than whoever's walking away with bronze, and you should always be aiming for the top tier 😁

Yeah, but definitely not with my motherboard.
The KingMax is sitting at 940MHz @ 2.0V right now.
My E6300 hits 2.2GHz @ 1.35V easily, and I know it could push even harder if I wanted to, but I’m really not looking to stress it out or anything.
I should probably have an HD3870 arriving sometime next week 🙂 🙂 🙂

By the way, do you happen to know what kind of headroom I'd actually get with an Abit FP-IN9?

They’ve got some LN2 over at Selk, so if you happen to know anyone with the right connections who could swing by and grab a few liters for you 😁 😁 😁

Well, I guess we'll see if it actually works once that new liquid cooler finally shows up 😉

So, is this actually a decent result?
Since I'm still running on the stock cooler that came with the E6300, I haven't pushed things too hard yet—I'm sitting at about 2.2GHz right now.
The motherboard (an Abit FP-IN9) lets you mess with unlinked OC for both the CPU and the bus, which is a nice little perk, but since I'm not running a 1:1 ratio right now,
well, you can't really have your cake and eat it too, I guess.
Because I’m currently pinching every penny to save up for a new GPU, specifically an 🙂 Radeon 3870 🙂, I don't have the extra cash for a beefy aftermarket cooler; once I finally scrape enough together, then I'll start pushing this processor harder.
Right now, that 7x multiplier is absolutely killing me, 😠 and honestly, this board isn't exactly built for hardcore overclocking anyway.😢

Molex connectors

placidcanyon2 said:If you’re trying to figure out the voltage drop—basically that gap between what your power supply is spitting out and what you actually want at the terminal—you just run the math using Ohm's Law, $R = V / I$. Honestly, even a little 0.25W resistor should do the trick, though if you want to be safe, maybe grab a 0.5W one. Since LEDs don't pull much juice, you shouldn't have any issues.

You’re probably better off going with a series connection—though you have to be careful because that's when one single LED decides to give up the ghost and takes the whole string down with it. I’ve heard that happens because of those tiny little variations in resistance from one diode to the next, which just messes everything up. Just don't forget that the voltage you're dealing with on any given LED is basically just your total power supply voltage divided by the number of LEDs in the chain.

If you consider yourself a mechanic, you probably wouldn't know the first thing about using a soldering iron, though I bet you could handle a screwdriver like a pro. 🙂 Then you’re just taking the easy way out by using those damn terminal blocks for the chandelier.

Exactly. 👍

Thanks, guys. I owe you all a beer if I don't end up burning the whole house down first.😁

Thanks Henry Thompson66, but here’s the catch: most of these LEDs actually run on about 3.2 to 3.3V
so you really ought to be throwing a resistor in there to drop the voltage,
and since I’m more of a mechanical guy🙄 I’m pretty much clueless when it comes to anything involving current🤷 😕

Since I’m feeling a bit inquisitive today, I guess this technically falls under the umbrella of PC Modding, right?
Has anyone here actually messed around with wiring up individual LED diodes directly to a computer power supply—say, via a standard Molex connector
and if so, what voltage are we talking about here, 5V, 7V, or even 12V? Also, which resistor values should I be looking at, and would a series or parallel circuit give me the best results?

If you’re working with aluminum sheet that isn't thicker than about 2mm, you can pretty much bend it just by using some muscle—or, if you happen to have a sheet metal brake lying around, that makes life a whole lot easier.
It really all comes down to the angle you're aiming for; if you need a sharp 90° bend, just clamp it to the edge of a workbench and give it a few good hits with a hammer,
but if you're looking to get a nice, smooth radius, you'll want to wrap it over a pipe that matches the curve you want and tap it with the hammer from there.
Once you've got the shape right, you'll just need to hit it with some spray filler, do a bit of sanding, and then you're ready to paint.

Here’s this, maybe it'll help you out a bit.
As for putting everything together, I stumbled upon this and that

If everyone else can pull it off, why on earth shouldn't I?🙂

Check this out:http://hi-techreviews.com/reviews_20...1300/Page1.htm

Abit FP-IN9 nF650i SLI
2x1Gb DDR2 800MHz Kingmax
The case is an MS Ind. miditower, running one 120mm intake fan and two 80mm exhaust fans,
but honestly, it’s a bit of a tight squeeze inside, so the airflow is pretty lackluster.
I really ought to pick up a more spacious case just to get some decent air moving through the system.

I had the radio running at 2.5GHz for a bit, but man, those temps were creeping up past 55°C.
Now I've got them sitting pretty around 40~45°C since I dropped it down to 2.2GHz.

I’m sitting here at just 23,578 seconds😳 running on an E6300@2 at 2.2GHz.