Posts by copperhawk19

So, yeah... I was just starting to get used to this keyboard... but I have this feeling my Alt keys are sticking. For instance, I've got it plugged in through an Xbox adapter... and while I was playing BF3 today, this weird beeping started up, almost like I was hitting too many keys at once, and suddenly it felt like the Alt key had just jammed itself down. 🙂 This is actually the second time this has happened... if it happens one more time, I think I'm going to look into getting a replacement. 🙂

I don't know... maybe I'm being a bit cynical, 🙂 but I have a feeling this thing might actually be more durable than a Nokia 3310. 😁 It's a good thing it arrived yesterday... just gives me enough time to get fully immersed in Diablo 😉

dustybear9 said:man, this thing is loud enough to wake up the whole neighborhood, let alone the house itself!!!

I guess I don't really feel like clicking through links; we're here to actually talk, aren't we??

Anyway, that link from Benjamin King2 pretty much covers everything you need to know about mechanical keyboards.

My 6gV2 finally showed up yesterday. ^^

I switched over to it from that Microsoft skinny eleven (which, honestly, is a pretty decent little plastic board)
and I spent the entire day feeling totally lost. The key travel feels longer, I suppose. I have about a week before D3 starts, so maybe I can get used to it by then.
And the weight is just unreal... are some parts made out of lead or something? 🙂 If I drop this thing on the floor, it might leave a crater. 😁

I suspect that's how it will play out. By dropping the voltage further, I managed to stabilize my temperatures at around 65-66°C—the first core sits at about 62-63, while the second one stays at 65-66.
That's running at 1.160V with a +0.031V offset (sorry, I guess I'm still a bit shaky on all this overclocking terminology :P),
and just a heads-up for anyone looking at buying a Rock—so many people are running into this exact same issue and there still isn't a fix. Honestly, I'm surprised I didn't see a warning about this in any of the reviews.
http://forums.tweaktown.com/asrock/4...-received.html
plus those 0x00101 BSODs.

My older PC started doing this two days ago... even when everything is set to default, I'm averaging about two or three blue screens a day. It's a total mess. The irony, I suppose, is that while I have it overclocked, I haven't seen a single blue screen.
If you don't believe me, feel free to tell me that a missing pin wouldn't cause any issues.😍

Yeah, my Z68 Extreme 4 is also throwing out way too much voltage -.- I managed to lock it at 4GHz with 1.170v right now by using that +0.031v offset. If I just leave it on auto and bump the multiplier up to 40, the voltage spikes all the way to 1.38V, and then the temperatures start getting pretty abnormal.
When you guys run your Prime95 tests, is it best to use that middle Large FFTs test? That's the one that really pushes the cores to their max temps, I guess.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2030182 This looks alright to me... though the temperature is sitting around 67C :/

Hello there... I managed to do a bit of overclocking on my 1154 socket 🙂
I'm using a stock cooler... it actually pushed through a 45-minute stress test at 4GHz, so I wanted to ask a few things...
http://tinypic.com/r/ip7dk7/7
Now I'm wondering about the voltage and temperature levels...
Before this attempt, I had everything set to auto, just keeping the multiplier at 40x...
The temperature shot up past 80 C, so I assume the voltage was too high, erm... I tried using an offset of -0.065v and the temp dropped quite a bit. So, should I keep lowering the voltage until I hit a BSOD, and once that happens, just revert back to the last stable setting? There isn't a graphics card in the mid-tower case right now (which would normally run pretty hot), but I compensated for that by cranking the rear fan, which is really good at pulling out the hot air. The default voltage for Sandy Bridge is 1.2v, right? If that's the case, does it make sense to keep dropping it?
Does a 5C difference between the first and fourth core actually matter?
Sorry if this comes across as a stupid question, but I'm still pretty new to all of this 😁

Sorry to bother you guys again... Is the XFX Core edition 80 + 550 w pas - EasyRail actually a decent power supply? I haven't been able to find a specific review on it, though I did see some people on a few tech forums saying they were pretty happy with how it performs.
Does that 80+ part mean it has that 80+ certification and that the efficiency stays above 80%?

Would it be enough for an i5 2500k and an ATI 6950 2GB? I'm assuming it should be fine, but I was just wondering if it leaves any room for overclocking?

So, I was wondering how you can actually tell which Radeon 6950 cards are capable of being flashed over to a 6970... I've been doing some digging online, but I'm still a bit unsure. Is it true that the newer versions that won't let you flash them are the ones lacking a dual BIOS switch?

I can't even bring myself to watch it because the tennis being played right now is just pathetic... -.-
Dear CNN, you seriously suck!

Total garbage of a movie... just finished watching it...
Willem Dafoe is the only reason I'm even giving this credit; he's a legend, and that's about it.
2/10

Since we're already running Windows 7 and Office :P
So, I was setting up my sister's new laptop yesterday with Windows 7 Ultimate and Office 2007, and I was wondering if it’s possible to create another toolbar with Office icons at the top?
The first one is just where it normally sits, but I wanted to know if I could have a separate, dedicated toolbar containing all the Office tools?
I seem to remember being able to do that back on Windows XP

I was wondering if there's some kind of specific setting for this... because even after I ran the uninstaller, my startup shortcuts still won't budge...??

How can I set it up so that my Windows 7 machine doesn't connect via the built-in wireless, but instead uses the client device I received with the hardware?
I've looked everywhere and just can't find the setting to switch over... I know I could do this without any trouble back when I was using Windows XP...

The main thing bothering me is those signal bars; when I use the device's own client, I get actual decibels or percentages, which makes it much easier to position the antenna correctly.🤷

I even tried using a network stumbler just now... but it won't recognize the device through Windows 7...(it worked fine on Windows XP).

restlessbear34 said:hey there.

I don't really want to start a whole new thread... but maybe I could just ask one quick question?

Is there a way to organize files in a folder on Windows 7 exactly how I want them to be?

thanks!

Well, if you right-click while you're inside the folder....



and then you just pick ☕

I managed to sort this out using a little utility program that isn't really designed for this specific task... but I guess it works well enough....
thanks for providing that link about scripting; I actually ended up finding this thanks to that info.
http://www.freewaregenius.com/2008/1...olume-control/

Keith Bennett38 said:He he... I think this discussion went off track because people weren't reading closely. copperhawk19 mentioned he doesn't have a laptop; he's looking for a key combination on a standard desktop PC to adjust speaker volume via the keyboard. Since he doesn't have a media keyboard and uses a classic one without extra function keys (like Media, Play, Paus, Mute, email, etc.), he needs an alternative. 🙂
I'm sorry I can't be more helpful since I've never really run into that issue myself... my keyboard actually has multimedia keys (which I mostly don't use 😉 )

You can find here a list of all the shortcuts for Windows 7, though there isn't anything specifically for adjusting the volume

There is a script available here, so copperhawk19, if you're feeling adventurous and want to experiment???
http://dan.hersam.com/2009/10/28/how...oard-shortcut/

THANKS!! 🙏🙏🙏🙏
I'll try that out later 🙂

Man, I am honestly surprised by how stable my internet is right now...
Back on Windows XP, whenever I tried playing Call of Duty 2... or had too many tabs open while BitTorrent was running in the background, the connection would just drop.
I'm using local wireless through a 4m USB cable, and instead of an antenna, I've got a USB wireless stick wrapped in a plastic bag (to protect it from the humidity and stuff) 🙂
But right now, I'm getting 600kb down and 50 up... with three forum tabs, YouTube, a chat site, and playtoy...
And it's working flawlessly...
I should also mention that my connection hasn't dropped once in over 12 hours, whereas on my freshly installed Windows XP, it used to crash about every 2 hours...
I'm hoping it stays this steady for the rest of the week. 🙏

Taylor Morales31 said:I think I follow you perfectly. Let me ask you one thing though—which key is sitting right there to the left of the Windows key and to the right of the left Ctrl? You know, that specific key between those two?

There isn't even a key there... 😂
It goes Ctrl, Windows, Alt, Space, AltGr, Windows, (some weird key), then Ctrl again.

23:07
I guess I shouldn't keep spamming this thread with new posts...
YOU ARE USING A LAPTOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Taylor Morales31 said:I guess I can't say for sure since, based on my experience, whether I'm using two different laptops or any OS (XP, Vista, or 7), the keys for volume and brightness are always the same. Maybe you didn't install the specific audio driver and are just using the default one? You might want to try updating the driver and checking the keyboard—either by holding the Fn key or without it—you'll likely find them. In my opinion, it doesn't really have much to do with the operating system itself; it usually depends on the sound driver, which defines those specific key combinations to make them respond.

hmmm man, don't make me overcomplicate things (I know I'm being difficult)

It's a desktop PC—just a standard kitchen computer, not a laptop.
Windows 7 Ultimate

And I don't have any extra special keys on the keyboard... just a classic keyboard.
So I have no idea what this Fn key thing is about.

I know that with 7, there are a million ways to crash a job, so I'm wondering if there's some kind of shortcut to turn the volume up or down.
If not... does anyone know of an application that would allow this? Like, maybe you hold Ctrl+Alt+Up and the volume goes up...

☕ clearer now?

Taylor Morales31 said:Well, what kind of key combinations were you using before? I don't think it really matters. For instance, I always just use the Fn key plus the up and down arrows. On my new laptop, I usually hold Fn along with F11 or F12, since those have the volume icons printed right under them—you know, the little speaker symbols for turning the sound up or down.

I didn't really use any specific key combos; I just used those hotkey apps where you hold the Windows key and then hit the arrow keys...
but I can't find any of those apps this week...
and I'm honestly not sure if there are any default key combinations for adjusting the volume by default... (I'm on a PCu, and my keyboard doesn't have any dedicated multimedia buttons)

I suppose there should be some kind of program for this... or maybe if there is a shortcut in Windows 7 where I can use a keyboard combination to adjust the volume?
🤷