As soon as the system realizes the power supply is underpowered, it basically goes into battery saver mode. It throttles everything in sight, which means the laptop ends up drawing way less power than it would if it were properly plugged in, allowing it to actually stay charged. If you tried running a game, you’d see immediate stuttering and frame drops. Personally, I find that even with this gaming rig, I can sometimes get away with charging while watching Netflix, simply because the thing is just idling—fans are completely silent and there's zero heat buildup. But the moment I fire up a heavy title? This beast will happily pull 250+ W without blinking an eye.
My two cents: I haven’t messed around much with those old-school 19.5V adapters, but right now I’m juggling two laptops that both take USB-C. One relies entirely on that connection, while the other is a heavy-duty gaming rig equipped with its own proprietary 280W brick at 19V, though it can also charge via USB-C. That beast has a massive 90 Wh battery.
I tend to charge them whenever I get the chance using whatever I have on hand—65W, 45W, or even 40W chargers—and I haven't run into any real issues yet. However, just like my colleague mentioned above, if you use a charger that's too weak, the laptop actually drains faster than it charges. It basically recognizes that there isn't enough juice coming in, so instead of topping up the battery, it starts "borrowing" power from the battery to supplement what the charger provides just to keep the system running. Even more annoying: with an underpowered charger, the machine acts like it’s running on battery alone, dropping into power-saving mode and limiting performance.
For instance, I have a 40W Anker Power Bank that handles both laptops without much fuss. But with the smaller one, under a decent load, it manages to charge just enough to stay level or maybe gain a little ground. The big gaming rig, on the other hand, only really charges when I'm not using it or if I'm doing something trivial, like watching Netflix. The second I start browsing the web, the percentage either stalls or starts dropping. Gaming is out of the question, obviously; it runs slower than it would on pure battery power because the performance gets throttled. Since this laptop runs Windows, it's smart enough to realize the power supply is insufficient, so it throttles the CPU and everything else to minimize consumption.
The smaller laptop usually uses its original 65W USB-C charger, but if I don't have the original handy, I'll sometimes use a 45W Samsung charger. On that one, Ubuntu also realizes the charger is too weak and limits performance, but it still manages to maintain the charge level or slowly top it up, provided I'm not pushing it too hard with heavy applications.
Here’s the situation: a few months back, my drive went completely south on me. It was a total disaster—I couldn't boot into Windows or Ubuntu. I'll admit, I was being a massive pain in the neck to everyone on the forums back then, practically badgering people until I finally managed to get the drive stabilized, wipe everything clean, and rebuild the partitions from scratch. I ended up installing Ubuntu first since that's my primary OS now. Honestly, I wasted about two full weeks just getting everything configured, installed, and customized to the point where I actually had a fully functional system again. So, if you're wondering why I'm dead set against formatting this drive, that's why. Unless there is a way to simply clone the entire partition and restore it exactly as it is—basically a seamless copy-paste without breaking anything or requiring more endless tweaking—I'm not doing it. I’ve officially run out of patience and willpower. I just want to get Windows installed and finally sit down to play some games.
I’m venting here because, frankly, nothing seems to work the way it’s supposed to lately, and I am officially fed up with having to play babysitter to every little glitch. It’s exhausting constantly patching things up or fixing messes that shouldn't exist in the first place. This is especially infuriating when we're talking about paid software. That is the whole point of paying a premium—you expect it to just work. You're paying for the support and the reliability. But between hardware costs skyrocketing and software prices hitting the ceiling, stability has become an afterthought. Look, I’m not asking for a trip to Mars here. I just want to install Windows and actually use it exactly as it was designed. I never had these headaches with Ubuntu. You give it an NTFS partition, and it’s happy as a clam. Meanwhile, Windows is a constant, unrelenting headache—if you'll excuse my language. At its absolute best, it just overwrites my Ubuntu bootloader every single time. It’s ridiculous to be told to just "format the drive" when that same drive might be holding ten other essential things. Fine, take your NTFS partition and do whatever you want with it, but leave everything else alone. Isn't the entire purpose of partitioning to ensure each OS exists independently without stepping on everyone else's toes?
I’m convinced there’s a fix for this. I just need to pin down exactly what’s causing the headache so I can sit down and build him the specific partition layout he actually needs.
I haven't seen any posts from b007 yet. Is there something specific you wanted me to look at? As requested: This would be... It should have happened. Work.
So, the core issue boils down to whether the disk is set to MBR. From what I can gather, though, you should still be able to get Windows 10 installed on an MBR drive if you run it in legacy mode. Actually, if we're talking about that specific error from the first screenshot, I think I’ve already managed to work around it.
When I pull up the boot menu, it gives me the option to boot from my USB drive in either UEFI or Legacy mode. If I opt for UEFI, it predictably starts complaining that it can't install onto an MBR partition. However, when I switch over to Legacy mode, that error disappears, only to be replaced by this annoying message: "We couldn't create a new partition or locate an existing one. For more information, see the Setup log files." Now, does anyone actually know where these log files are buried? 🤔 The partition is still showing up empty after that attempt, and I can't find any of them on the USB either.
I’m trying to get Windows 10 installed on an 180 GB SSD. Currently, the drive is split into two partitions: one running Linux via an EXT4 file system and another one that's just sitting there empty. At first, I kept getting hit with this error: View on imgur
Eventually, I figured out I could jump into the boot menu and select the USB to boot in Legacy mode instead of BIOS, which actually let the installation proceed—but now I’m staring at this: View on imgur
Now, Google is suggesting that I should just format the entire drive (!??) and rebuild all the partitions from scratch. That is absolutely not happening for me, so I’m looking for a better way forward. I already tried deleting the partition and recreating it using Disk Management while running Ubuntu, but no luck there.
If it helps anyone, when I was booted in BIOS mode, I tried using the built-in installation manager to wipe that partition. However, every time I attempted to recreate it using the unallocated space, the whole thing would just crash and tell me it couldn't create the partition. Strangely enough, I can delete and create partitions just fine when I'm in Legacy mode. I even tried shrinking the partition size during creation to leave some unallocated space for the new ones, but that resulted in zero progress.
I tested this on my phone too, and it’s doing the exact same thing—just messing around. Here is a screenshot showing the last six readings from the top down. First, I ran it without Bluetooth enabled. Then came two tests with Bluetooth turned on, though no music was actually playing (I repeated the measurement because it dipped to 50, but it bounced back). Following that, you see those two low numbers while the music is streaming—it was jumping around quite a bit during the test, dropping to 5-8 Mbps at times. Finally, once I killed the Bluetooth connection, it shot right back up to 90+ Mbps.
Now, that actually worried me a little. I figured there was a slim chance this was caused by some internal resource sharing between the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi components inside a single device—like they share an antenna, a chip, or a bus—but since we're talking about two completely different devices here, I didn't expect a correlation. However, I just tried streaming music from my phone via Bluetooth while measuring the speed on my laptop (running Ubuntu), and it clocked in at a steady 66 Mbps.
It occurred to me that I have an old, cheap Chinese Wi-Fi range extender lying around somewhere with a blown power supply. As a temporary fix, I might try to scavenge an old mobile charger to revive that thing, let it pick up the Wi-Fi, and then just hardwire it via Ethernet.
Long-term, though, I really ought to invest in a decent router instead of relying on this junk that AT&T hands out. I was looking at some Asus models with four antennas that support 5 GHz and pretty much every other standard, but they go for about $110. Alternatively, I could just buy one of those thin, flat Ethernet cables and snake it along the floor.
But purely for my own curiosity now: why on earth do Bluetooth and Wi-Fi fight so violently when they're inside the same device?
I'll give it a shot on my phone later today once I get home from work. For a little while, I used to stream via Bluetooth, but I never actually bothered to run a Speedtest. These days, if I’m listening to music, I mostly just rely on DLNA.
It isn't exactly a life-or-death matter for me—I usually pull my music from an audio server running a Raspberry Pi—but every now and then I want to catch a video on YouTube or listen to something else via Bluetooth. It beats the hell out of dragging Ethernet and audio cables across the entire apartment.😬
I’ve been tinkering with my router settings lately because the signal was driving me crazy. Honestly, it never even crossed my mind that Bluetooth could be such a massive interference hog. Before I moved my desk, I had it constantly connected to a Bluetooth receiver, and the speeds were just abysmal. It wasn't until I stumbled upon the fact that everything stabilizes the second I kill the Bluetooth connection that I realized what was happening. The catch? I'm stuck using an older Netgear Router that doesn't support 5 GHz—which would likely solve everything since Bluetooth runs on the 2.4 GHz band, if my memory serves me right. I tried playing around with different channels, but it didn't yield much of an improvement. I've already disabled power saving, too.
Originally, the router was in a different room because that's where my fiber optic line comes in, but once I relocated my desk to the living room, I decided to run an Ethernet cable through the window via the patio. Now the Netgear Router is sitting right there in the living room. It’s maybe five feet away from my setup, and the Wi-Fi signal is showing full bars.
I recently moved my desk to a different spot in the house, and now I’m dealing with two headaches: both my router and my Hi-Fi setup are too far away to run a hardwired connection to my laptop. I have fiber optic service with speeds up to 100 Mbps, which is plenty. When I connect via Wi-Fi, I don't quite hit that top speed—it usually hovers around 80 to 90 Mbps, which I can live with. However, things go south when I pair via Bluetooth to an Amazon Echo Dot that's hooked up to my amplifier to stream music. As soon as I do that, my internet speed plummets to about 10–13 Mbps. Not only is it incredibly slow, but the audio starts stuttering, and if I try to actually use the bandwidth for anything else, like downloading torrents, the sound just cuts out entirely.
What kind of absolute nonsense is this? Is there actually a fix for this mess? My backup plan would be streaming over Wi-Fi using the DLNA protocol to a headless audio server I’ve got running, but the latency is massive—we're talking several seconds of delay—making it completely useless if I'm trying to sync it with video or anything else.
My laptop is a Dell XPS 15 running a dual boot of Windows 10 and Ubuntu GNOME 16.04 (the issue persists regardless of the OS), and the Wi-Fi card is an Intel dual band wireless AC 7260. Interestingly, when I check the Device Manager, I see two separate "Bluetooth device" entries listed under "Network adapters."
I was reading somewhere recently that they only started issuing the Netgear routers with the AC standard lately. I’ve had mine since last December, so there’s a decent chance I’m stuck with an older version. I'm not at my place right now to check the specific model number on the unit itself, but if that's actually the root of the issue, then the technicians better step up and fix it properly—or just bring me a new one. Look, I know nothing beats a hardwired connection, but if I can pull 100 Mbps over Wi-Fi (which, if it's actually AC standard, it absolutely should be able to do), I really don't want to deal with the headache of running cables through the house. I saw someone else on another forum bragging about hitting over 200 Mbps from just 13 feet away.
That leaves me wondering: is it even possible to buy an optical extension? If I end up giving in and going the wired route, I might as well run the fiber straight to my desk.
I have AT&T fiber with a 100 Mbps plan, which is perfectly fine—I get the full speed when I test via an Ethernet connection. However, things went sideways when I decided to move my desk from my bedroom to the living room (mostly because the AC is located there 😬). Typical of how service providers operate here, they didn't bother installing a proper wall jack or anything useful; instead, they just ran the fiber line straight from the hallway into the room, plugging it directly into the ONT sitting on my desk. Now, my laptop is barely pulling 10 Mbps over Wi-Fi in the living room! My router is a Netgear router, and my laptop uses an Intel AC 7260 card, which supports 802.11ac and claims max speeds of 300/867 Mbps.
I managed to fish the Ethernet cable connecting the ONT and the router through a hole in the wall to get the Netgear router into the living room. It’s now about a meter and a half away from my laptop in a direct line of sight, yet the speed barely hits 30 Mbps. Honestly, what gives? I've heard people say the Netgear router is garbage when it comes to Wi-Fi (which makes sense given it lacks external antennas), but is it really this bad? Is there some setting I should tweak? I haven't touched anything since the AT&T technicians set it up. Is the issue definitely the Netgear router, and if so, should I complain to AT&T and demand a better model that can actually deliver the speeds I'm paying for within the same room?
The second option is to move the router or at least run a cable back to my desk, but the Ethernet cable required would be far too long and unsightly, making it difficult to pull off. My thought was to extend the fiber line itself and bring the ONT right to the desk. Fiber is thin and translucent, almost invisible, so I could easily route it around the apartment. The problem is that buying fiber by the foot and then attempting "installation" with connectors seems impossible for us laypeople without incredibly expensive equipment. Furthermore, I can't even find pre-made extension cables with a female connector on one end and a male on the other to simply lengthen the existing line. Where does one even buy such things? This would also solve another headache: the current setup is frankly idiotic. The ONT actually fell off my desk while I was cleaning once, breaking the cable and forcing them to rerun everything from the hallway all over again. Given how clumsy I am, that's likely to happen annually. It's just foolish that they didn't install a wall jack; if they had, I could just swap out a short patch cable myself whenever it breaks rather than waiting a week for a technician to show up.
The third option is using a Powerline adapter, but those are just too expensive.
I’ve been a die-hard laptop devotee for years now. My current setup is an HP Pavilion 17, and honestly, it’s served me fine until I got a taste of the pure luxury of working on a 24" monitor at the office. Now, I’m looking to beef up my laptop station with some decent peripherals.
So, here’s the plan: I want to pick up a 24" monitor. Ideally, it needs an IPS panel, both HDMI and DisplayPort connectivity, and some decent ergonomics—something that can tilt and adjust height slightly. A built-in USB hub would also be a nice perk. At work, I use a Dell UltraSharp U2414H, and let me tell you, it is absolute perfection. The design hits all my marks, the image quality is stellar, the connectivity is unbeatable, and I am completely obsessed with that borderless look. From what I’ve read online, it seems like a "best buy" for color accuracy, but the price tag tells a different story. That UltraSharp series is pretty steep. Is it actually worth the premium? It’s currently on sale at Best Buy. Then again, if I just want something that checks my basic boxes, maybe it isn't that big of a deal. I could probably find an IPS Dell with HDMI and a hub in the P series for maybe $150 or so at Micro Center.
On top of that, I need a keyboard. I’m used to laptop keyboards, so I prefer something with minimal key travel; the one on my HP Pavilion 17 is actually quite good. At work, I use a Logitech K270. I’ve adjusted to it, but I still find myself hitting the "+" key too hard, and frankly, it's way too loud. I tried a Mac keyboard recently—that thin, silver metal one—and it was absolutely my style. I’d love something similar for my PC. Ideally, it would be wireless, preferably from Logitech so I can use the Unifying receiver since I already have an M705 mouse, but the wireless selection around here feels a bit limited.
My workload is a bit of everything: programming and software development, general browsing, and some light gaming—nothing particularly demanding.
Prices have really taken a dive lately... I’m pretty sure I shelled out over $400 just over a year ago, assuming my memory hasn't completely failed me.
I have to give credit where it's due: the battery life is genuinely impressive. I’ve been using this thing for a little over a year now, and the batteries are still sitting at 80% capacity. At this rate, they should easily last another five or six years. Since it shipped with two Duracell batteries included, the mouse will likely die of old age before the batteries ever give up. It’s a far cry from my previous cheap mouse, where I was practically buying a new AA battery every month; by the end, I’d spent more on batteries than I did on the actual mouse.
The ergonomics are top-notch, there are plenty of useful extra buttons, and the scroll wheel feels great. However, I still can't wrap my head around that offset sensor. I honestly don't know which genius at Logitech decided that was a good design choice. I suppose it depends heavily on your grip style. If you’re one of those people who hovers their hand "in the air" while moving the mouse, you probably won't notice a thing—or so I read somewhere. But I tend to rest the weight of my palm directly on the desk and pivot the mouse rather than lifting it. With that kind of movement, the offset sensor struggles to track properly. For instance, if I pivot the mouse to the left, I expect the pointer to move toward the bottom-left corner—which is what a standard optical mouse with a centered sensor would do—but instead, it just moves straight left without any downward movement.
Then there’s the issue of the surface. Without a mousepad, the tracking is pretty abysmal. Once I picked up a Cooler Master CM Storm pad, performance improved significantly, so now I find myself carrying a mousepad everywhere I go. It’s frankly a bit embarrassing for a mouse at this price point; my old budget mouse worked perfectly on almost any surface imaginable.
At one point, I actually thought my unit was defective, so I took it in to file a warranty claim. They refused to swap it out because I had "damaged" the packaging. The problem is, the box is designed in such a way that you literally cannot open it without damaging it. Even the guy at the service center admitted that, noting he’d never seen anyone open it as carefully as I did, yet it was still considered "damaged." (GG Links, consider this my official protest against your policies.) Eventually, they sent it off for inspection, found some technical irregularity, and replaced it. I was certain I got a brand-new unit since it arrived shrink-wrapped with the price tag visible, but when I got home and opened it with equal care, it was the exact same experience. I tried to demand a full refund so I could just buy something else, but they wouldn't budge—absolute bastards. After digging through various forums, I realized the mouse isn't broken; it's just built that way, and it simply doesn't mesh with how I hold a mouse.
I have eventually adjusted to it. I use it for occasional gaming—I'm not a "gamer" per se, just someone who kills time when I can—but it still stings a little. It’s frustrating that a mouse that cost me nearly $167 isn't virtually perfect, especially when my old $$17 piece of junk felt almost as precise.
Anyway, regarding ergonomics, I’m actually quite happy with my Logitech M705, though I wouldn't suggest it if you're looking for precision. That side-mounted laser sensor definitely causes issues—at least for me—and after doing a little digging online, it turns out I'm far from the only one frustrated by it. I’ve managed to get used to it (mostly because I dropped way too much cash on it back in the day 😁), but I certainly wouldn't buy it again. It's a shame, really; the ergonomics are top-notch, it's got a good heft to it, and it sits perfectly in the palm. However, at the office, I use a wireless Logitech that cost half as much, which uses a standard optical sensor centered in the middle, and it is significantly more precise.
I don't deal in specifics—I rarely play games and focus exclusively on programming—so I tend to rely on simple logic: a more expensive mouse (especially one 5x the price) ought to perform better, yet this one works worse than a cheap alternative. I never had issues with a no-name wireless one from $20, so I expected this one to be an upgrade, but it isn't. I did pick up a CoolerMaster Storm mousepad, which has helped significantly, though I still haven't fully adjusted to the device. At times, I’ve actually started feeling some wrist pain because I find myself straining while trying to hit precise targets, like clicking the 'x' to close a tab. The pad definitely helps, but it feels somewhat ridiculous that such an expensive laser mouse requires a specialized surface while the budget ones don't. Plus, now I have to lug a mousepad everywhere since I'm working on a laptop.
I've read that having an off-center sensor just means you need a period of adjustment, depending on your grip and technique. For instance, I use my palm as a "pivot," resting it down and using my fingers to make light movements, including rotations, which off-center sensors often misinterpret. I have SetPoint installed; beyond button remapping, it handles pointer speed and that acceleration feature for sudden movements, but I find that acceleration annoying, so I turned 😁 off. As for Best Buy, I went back to try and process a return—not at the retail counter, but at their actual service center (over in Brooklyn)—and they refused. Even after five minutes of arguing, I didn't get anywhere. Their policy states that returns are possible within 7 days (this was an in-store purchase, not online), provided everything is in its original condition. However, it is virtually impossible to open the original packaging without compromising its "original" state; you inevitably tear the back of the box, and the internal paper inserts end up crumpled and shredded during removal. Their website mentions that if the packaging is damaged, the refund amount is reduced by 10%, but I was told that rule only applies to wholesale. Long story short, they wouldn't take it back. It's better now with the mousepad, and hopefully, I'll acclimate. If not, I might just sell it. Next time, I'll make sure the laser is strictly centered. 😬
I’ll hijack this thread since we’re talking about the controversial M705, which I recently picked up. Up until now, I was using some no-name wireless mouse I grabbed from iTunes for $20. It lasted me a few years and I clocked over three million clicks with it. It had an optical sensor—blue light—and honestly, I never had a single issue with it. Its only real flaw was its appetite for batteries; a single AA would only last about a month and a half or two. It met its ignoble end when I accidentally spilled water on it.
So, I decided to upgrade to something a bit more substantial—something larger, more ergonomic, energy-efficient, and with extra buttons. After wading through some positive reviews, I pulled the trigger on the Logitech M705 for $126. Given that it cost nearly five times what my old mouse did, I expected at least triple the performance. But man, was I wrong! For that kind of money, I didn't expect to be sent to Best Buy by 😁 instead of getting something reliable, and frankly, I’m not happy with how it performs. When I first got it, the cursor kept jittering; it’s just imprecise, and I can't hit small targets. I took it back to Links after two days; they wouldn't give me a refund, but they did send it in for service and gave me a replacement unit. The jittering stopped, but the core problem remains. For comparison, I have a cheap wired mouse from $9.75, and even with that tiny thing that you can barely see, I’m much more precise. I’ve been playing around on this site and I always get better results with the cheap one, which is exactly the opposite of how this should work!!
Then I stumbled upon this forum: http://forums.logitech.com/t5/Mice-a...se/td-p/482187 and realized I’m clearly being screwed by that off-centered sensor. I truly don't know what idiot thought that was a good design choice. Now I’m stuck. Does anyone have any advice? Is it normal to be this dissatisfied with a mouse costing $126? Why are other people so happy with it, and why does it have such glowing reviews? Perhaps it depends on the grip style, and an off-centered sensor just isn't for me? Should I be looking for something with a centered sensor instead? Any recommendations?
If it makes any difference, I hold the mouse with my palm resting completely flat on the desk while making subtle movements. I frequently perform rotation movements, and it seems that’s exactly where the off-centered sensor fails—it simply can't detect the motion when I move toward the left.
And while I have you, if anyone happens to know: do I have any right to demand a refund at Links within seven days if I still have all the original packaging?
A friend of mine is looking for a laptop with a budget of $1833 max. He’s primarily focused on music production and recording, so he needs something capable of handling those workloads. Of course, it’ll also be his daily driver for web browsing and Microsoft Office, and he wants to play some games on the side—mostly stuff like NBA 2016, FIFA, and other sports titles. He prefers a 17-inch screen, but honestly, raw performance is more important to him; he'd rather have a faster machine even if it means a smaller display. He also mentioned he definitely needs at least 8 GB of RAM to manage his production software.
He’s been eyeing these three options:
Are any of these actually worth buying, and will they run the games he mentioned? I told him straight up to stay away from the one with the AMD chip; I've always had a personal preference for Intel IX processors. My parents use similar CPUs at home, and they seem perfectly fine for general use. Is there anything better out there for this kind of money?
That was exactly what I needed to hear! I went ahead and installed Live Mail, successfully imported all my messages from Eudora Mail, and everything is running smoothly now. The interface feels like a middle ground between Outlook 2013 and Eudora Mail—honestly, I think it’ll be plenty for them. They’ll likely have no choice anyway, since whenever I try to export to a PST, I run into that exact same error I was getting back in Eudora Mail. I've given up on trying to move files around; they might as well just stick with Live Mail.
Are you talking about the Outlook express on that old machine? Honestly, I highly doubt it’s running a 64-bit OS. That laptop is over nine years old; it’s got a single-core Celeron clocked at 1.6 GHz inside. There is zero chance it's 64-bit. 😁 Also, yeah, I’m getting this specific error from the link:
The export could not be performed. An error occurred while initializing MAPI.
And regarding Outlook on the new computer—I don't see how whether it's 32-bit or 64-bit even matters here. I can't get an export to work out of the old Outlook express at all, so the issue clearly lies there (that error message I posted above). Or are you suggesting that a 32-bit version of Outlook on the new laptop might actually be able to import DBX files where a 64-bit version would fail?
My parents finally picked up a new laptop after what feels like an eternity, and now I’m stuck trying to migrate their entire email history from the old machine to the new one. The old setup is running Windows XP and uses that ancient version of Outlook Express. On the new machine, I’ve installed Office 2013 on Windows 10. They're using their standard AT&T email account, which, if I recall correctly, doesn't store messages on the server. Because of that, Outlook 2013 didn't automatically pull in any of the old correspondence. The mail is working fine now, but the history is missing, so it looks like I'll have to move everything manually.
I've spent quite a bit of time digging through tutorials, but nothing seems to work for my specific situation. Outlook Express has an "export that PST" option, but whenever I try it, I just get hit with some cryptic error regarding MAPI. Every workaround I've stumbled upon online has failed miserably. I did read somewhere that you can import the entire folder containing those .dbx files—where each file acts as a folder, like Inbox.dbx—directly into Outlook 2013. However, when I launch the Import wizard, the "From Outlook Express" option that every tutorial swears by simply isn't there. I've cycled through every single import setting available, and none of them offer a way to handle DBX files.
How can I transfer this data without losing a single thing? If Outlook 2013 isn't the right tool for the job, I'm open to recommendations for a different client, provided it works seamlessly. It is absolutely critical that they have access to all their old emails and their entire contact list. This email is used for business, and missing even one message could cause some serious damage.