Decimal notation is used for "accuracy," which is why you see differences when converting between MB, GB, and TB. When you convert units, data seems to "shrink" during the process—which is why a 1TB hard drive shows up as roughly 900-something GB. But when it comes to your bank account, don't expect those numbers to be perfectly precise. It's better to just head to the customer service portal to verify your actual transaction history; I’d bet money the real status looks different. Even an 800MB difference matters, yet even a decimal point can shift things. For some reason, these conversions aren't always consistent. Why should they be?
Adam Moore3 said:Alright, I’ll post this here instead of starting a new thread (sorry for the double post), but is the MSI 970 A-G43 actually any good? Could I pair an FX processor with it? After I finished upgrading my roommate's rig, his friend wants to build something too. He's currently running an Athlon X3 and a 6670 on this motherboard. I'm thinking about a GTX 1060 and some kind of FX chip—would that be doable on this board from a CPU standpoint? Also, does it have any heatsinks on the VRMov, and what's the phase regulation like?
MSI isn't really built for overclocking; you're better off with Gigabyte or ASUS. That specific board is pretty lackluster. There isn't a massive difference between an FX 6300 and an FX 8300, and since this board is weak, trying to overclock an 8300 wouldn't yield much, if it works at all. From what I can see, there are no heatsinks on them. When looking for fans, aim for higher CFM (airflow) but lower RPMs so they stay quiet. Try to keep it under $60; that's roughly what I spent on mine.
My suggestion is to invest in some higher-quality fans; it solves the noise issue and prevents headaches down the road. Currently, my setup uses three: 2 x Thermal Grizzly and one MS fan that likely came bundled with the case. It’s nearly silent, just a very faint hum. Previously, I was running a SickleFlow, which was a disaster—it sounded like ten fans were spinning at once, though I'll admit the airflow was better, if you're into that sort of thing. These Thermal Grizzly fans cost about $20 each, so they were definitely worth it. Why do I recommend this approach? Because you won't have to constantly fiddle with settings, and even at max RPM, they are barely audible. Some graphics cards can hit peak temperatures of 90 or 95°C, so in my opinion, everything is perfectly fine as long as it stays under 80°C. My MSI 970 shows 80°C on the display, but it can certainly go higher without causing any actual damage.
Maria Richardson2 said:However, Chrome had already been closed at the moment the Task Manager was accessed and the screenshot captured, yet the system still shows three separate Chrome processes residing in memory. Is it not reasonable to conclude that the RAM Usage is actually far from okay, given that absolutely nothing should be open? Nothing was active aside from the Task Manager itself. Furthermore, I am currently plagued by a multitude of Service Host : Local system processes running in the background that I simply cannot seem to terminate.
This smells like faulty RAM. Try replacing it and see if the issue persists. Are you seeing any other strange, random errors popping up? One more thing—disable those annoying Windows update features and similar background tasks. Just find an online guide to walk you through it; it’s enough to drive anyone crazy, leading them to start downloading and scanning everything in sight. My girlfriend had a similar issue on her new laptop, and that's how I ruled out software issues, though she wasn't getting errors, just constant freezing and high HDD usage. Also, download Spybot Anti-Beacon.
That software restores everything from day one up until now, which is why you're seeing all those useless data clusters. If the thumb drive is newer and hasn't been through a million write/erase cycles, there should be less junk. But hey, let them try—I'm actually curious to see what happens.
Thirty minutes for a 32GB stick on USB 3.0 isn't exactly lightning fast. On top of that, the amount of clutter is maddening; the only things actually worth anything are probably just photos and text documents. Maybe they'll get lucky and stumble upon some programs, but I honestly find that hard to believe.
First, try running an error check to see if it can re-index the drive properly; if that fails, a full format might do the trick. In the worst-case scenario, the flash drive itself might be dead. Keep in mind that when you attempt data recovery, about 90% of the time you won't actually get anything useful back. You'll likely just end up with fragmented bits of data that are impossible to use, all while waiting an eternity for the process to finish. That’s usually how it goes with those free software tools.
The easiest move is to drop it off at a repair shop or take it to someone you actually trust to get the job done right. Honestly, I wouldn't be surprised if some adware or similar junk got bundled in during the installation process.
Running two different antivirus programs at once is just asking for trouble. They often end up flagging one another as threats, which creates more problems than it solves. If you just uninstall Avast, everything should run smoothly again.
You shouldn't have much to worry about. The absolute worst-case scenario is that it fails to boot entirely or starts triggering random resets whenever the card tries to draw power. If you don't have the right connectors on hand, just pick up an adapter to convert Molex to PCIe pins. Once you're set, run a stress test with Heaven Benchmark or something similar to see how it holds up. Honestly, if I were in your shoes, I’d just look into buying a more modern card—but that's my call, not yours.
Try using an external Wi-Fi adapter. If the issue disappears, it means your laptop's internal card is likely failing. Wireless technology can be surprisingly unreliable sometimes.
Here is what this "piece of junk" does to a new 990x board after just an hour of use. I think I'll go ahead and pick up a Cooler Master Hyper 212 x along with an extra fan; with summer right around the corner, isn't it better to be safe than sorry? https://s29.postimg.org/cpagps7bb/Capture.png
He doesn't really need that much power for a GTX 1070. The recommended wattage is 350W+, so a 400W 80 Plus unit should be plenty. Besides, an i5 isn't exactly power-hungry, is it?
I currently have two fans in the front and one in the back. Since it's winter right now, it makes sense that the temperatures are staying low. I actually tried some overclocking with this subpar motherboard just to see how far I could push it. It’s "stable" at 4.1 GHz, but the voltage is way too high. The socket isn't exceeding 60°C and the CPU is sitting at 51°C, so you wouldn't think the cooling was an issue—not while the room is a chilly 68 degrees or so. We'll see what happens eventually; I'm just hoping summer doesn't completely wreck everything like it did with my old PC.
I think that would have made the cut here too. I don't really care about all those extra features and bells and whistles; I just want to be able to overclock normally up to at least 4.5 or 4.6 GHz and see how far it can actually go.
I know pre-built configurations usually carry a premium, but this one felt like a strange exception. If I had tried to spec out the exact same build myself, I would have ended up spending somewhere between $4,300 and $4,500. In my specific case, the issue was just that motherboard; everything else in the system is perfectly fine. I spent some time comparing the budget options, looking specifically for something capable of overclocking, and from what I can gather, the ASUS ROG motherboard seems decent. I’m not entirely sure how it performs until I actually test it, but it's supposedly quite solid for the price. It would be nice to pick up an Aura model, but $283 let's be real xD. The one I'm looking at right now is $227 priced at a total steal. Regarding the one you mentioned, is $190 there really any significant difference compared to the list I put together?
I am curious to get some global feedback from the community here. Did I ultimately make the right call with the configuration I picked up back in August from Micro Center? Before this, I spent countless hours scrolling through various sites, but I always seemed to hit a wall with setups featuring nothing better than an FX 6300 and an RX 460, usually priced around $3500.$1333 Even then, an i3 6100 was considered $367 which meant I was immediately priced out. Then, I stumbled upon this specific build: I opted for the version with the NVIDIA GTX 960 2GB instead of the 4GB promotional deal, swapped out the DVD drive, and added a Cooler Master cooler. I knew the motherboard was subpar, but that GPU caught my eye because it was nearly impossible to find at such a decent price point. Does anyone have recommendations for a better motherboard if I want to attempt overclocking? Perhaps something along the lines of an ASUS ROG motherboard? Ideally, I’d like to stay under $700.$267 I realize Intel is generally superior for gaming, but honestly, money is tight—besides, won't a bit of overclocking bridge that gap?
If it isn’t on the list, it doesn't really matter. Just make sure the voltage stays at 1.50 and check that the speed matches what your motherboard actually supports.